Journal Of A Tour In Asia Minor

JOURNAL

OP

A TOUR IN ASIA MINOR,

WITU

COMPARATIVE REMARKS

ON THE

ANCIENT AND MODERN GEOGRAPHY
OF THAT COUNTRY.

WILLIAM MARTIN LEAKE,

F.R.S. &c.

ACCOMPAKIEn BY A MAP.

LONDON:

JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.

1824.

^ OClETlr a,

PREFACE

To the traveller who delights in tracing
vestiges of Grecian art and civilization
amidst modern barbarism and desolation,
and who may thus at once illustrate hist* ry
and collect valuable materials for the gi. >-
grapher and the artist — there is no courV y
that now affords so fertile a field of discovt ^y
as Asia Minor. Unfortunately, there is no
province of the Ottoman emp. )re dif-
ficult to explore in detail. In European
Turkey, the effects of the Mahometan sy-
stem are somewhat tempered by its proxi-
mity to civilised Europe, by its conscious
weakness, and by the great excess of the
Christian population over the Turkish : but
the Turk of Asia Minor, although he may
be convinced of the danger which threatens
the whole Ottoman empire, from the change
that has taken place in the relative power
of the Musulman and Christian world,

b

IV

PKKVACK.

since his ancestors conquered the favoured
regions of which their successors have so
long been permitted to remain in the un-
disturbed abuse — derives, nevertheless, a
strong feeling of confidence and security,
from his being further removed from the
Christian nations which he dreads; and
sensible that European Turkey must be the
first to fall before the conqueror, he feels
no restraint in the indulgence of his hatred
to the Christian name, beyond that which
may arise from the dictates of his religion,
or from the native hospitality of the people
of the East.

In Asia Minor, among the impediments
to a traveller’s success may be especially
reckoned the deserted state of the coun-
try, which often puts the common necessa-
ries and conveniences of travelling out of
his reach ; the continual disputes and wars
among the persons in power ; the preca-
rious authority of the government of Con-
stantinople, which rendering its protection
ineffectual, makes the traveller’s success
depend upon the personal character of the
governor of each district ; and the ignorance

and the suspicious temper of the Turks,
who have no idea of scientific travelling ;
who cannot imagine any other motive for
our visits to that country, than a preparation
for hostile invasion, or a search after trea-
sures among the ruins of antiquity, and
whose suspicions of this nature a re of course
most strong in the provinces whi<?h, like
Asia Minor, are the least frequented by us*.
If the traveller’s prudence or good fortune
should obviate all these difficulties, and
should protect him from plague, banditti,
and other perils of a semibarbarous state
of society, he has still to dread the loss of
health, arising from the combined effects
of climate, fatigue, and privation ; which
seldom fails to check his career before
he has completed his projected tour.

Asia Minor is still in that state in which
a disguised dress, an assumption of the
medical character, great patience and per-
severance, the sacrifice of all European
comforts, and the concealment of pecu-

* These remarks were written before the insurrection
broke out in Greece — an event which will greatly increase
the clifFiculties of travelling in Asia Minor.

b 2

VI

PUBFACE.

niary means, are necessary to enable the
traveller thoroughly to investigate the
country, when otherwise qualified for the
task by literary and scientific attainments,
and by an intimate knowledge of the lan-
guage and manners of the people.

Among modern travellers, two only have
yet traH^ersed Asia Minor in various direc-
tions for exploratory purposes ; Paul Lucas
in the years 1705, 1706, and 1715, and Capt.
Macdonald Kinneir in the years 1813 and
1814. The rest have merely followed a single
route in passing through the country; even
the travels of the two persons just named,
amount only to a description of several
routes instead of one ; the state of the pro-
vinces and the mode of travelling having
rendered it impossible to make any of those
excursions from the main road, without
which the geography of an unknown coun-
try cannot possibly be ascertained. It even
appears from the journal of Mr. Kinneir,
that the difficulties of travelling in Asia
Minor have rather increased of late years
than diminished. And hence he was un-
successful in all his attempts to explore par-

PREFACE.

Vll

ticular sites interesting to ancient history,
and was unfortunate in his collection of the
surest tests of ancient geography, — inscrip-
tions,

I’he principalit}'^ of Tshappdn-Oglu , which
offered some security to the traveller, has
been broken up by his death ; and that of
the family of Kara-Osman-Oglu, the mild-
ness and equity of whose government over
the greater part of /Eolis, Ionia and Ly-
dia, had attracted thither great numbers of
Greeks from Europe, has been put an end
to by the same impolitic jealousy of Sultan
Mahmud which is undermining his own se-
curity and threatens the destruction of his
empire. There remain only a few dispersed
chieftains, most of them in a state of
doubtful allegiance to the Porte, in whose
districts, by good management and previous
preparation, the traveller might perhaps be
allowed to explore the country in safety.
In no other parts can he, unless with all
the requisites above stated, and a great sa-
crifice of time, hope to effect more than a
rapid passage along the principal roads,
take a transient view of some of the re-

PHUPACE.

viil

mains of antiquity, and note the distances
of places, and the general bearings of the
route, together Avith the relative situations
of a few hills or other remarkable objects
on either side of the road.

Under such circumstances, it is obvio >
that the geography of Asia Minor can only
be improved by collecting and combining
the information contiiined in the journals of
modern travellers ; by Avhich means an ap-
proximation to a detailed map of the coun-
try may progressively be made. It An^as
with the view of contributing to this object
that I published the journal of tAvo routes
through the central parts of Asia Minor,
in the second volume of the Rev. R. Wal-
pole’s Collection of Memoirs on Greece
and Asia Minor.

Having, since that pxiblication, extended
over the Avhole peninsula the comparative
inquiry into its ancient and modem geo-
graphy, which was there confined to the
parts forming the subject of the journals,
the result has been, the map which ac-
companies the present volume; the vo-
lume itself containing, together Avith the

PllEFACE.

IX

substance of the memoir in Mr. Walpole s
Collection, the additional remarks suggest-
ed by the more enlarged geographical in-
quiry.

As the remarks have become consider-
ably more voluminous than the journal,

cannot flatter myself that the work in its
present form will possess much attraction
for the general reader. It can only pre-
tend to contain, when accompanied by the
map, all the existing information upon Asia
Minor most essential to the exploring tra-
veller ; at the same time that it cannot fail
to offer some interest to the reader of an-
cient history.

I’he modern authorities which have served
in the construction of the map are of two
kinds — the maritime, and those relating
to the interior of the country : the former
derived from celestial observations, or nau-
tical surveys on the sea coast ; the latter,
from the routes of travellers. The mari-
time being the most certain, and giving
accura^jy of position to the two ends of
some of the principal routes, and conse-
quently in a great degree to the entire lines

X

PllEJ’ACE.

— may be considered as the foundation of
the work.

The positions of Constantinople and
Smyrna are assumed from the concurrence
of several good observations. The entire
southern coast, from the Gulf of Iskende-
rhn to that of M^kri, together with seve-
ral parts of the coast between M^kri and
Smyrna, has been laid doAvn from the Sur-
vey of Captain Beaufort, which was made
in the years 1811 and 1812, by order of the
Admiralty, during the administration of
Mr. Y orke ; and which was published in tlie
year 1820, by direction of the Lords Com-
missioners. The principal points and the ge-
neral outline of the Pontic coast of the pen-
insula have been adopted from the recently-
published chart of the Black Sea by Capt.
Gauttier, of the Royal Navy of France*.
The western coast, from the Gulf of Fihea to
the mouth of the Hellespont, has been laid
down from Truguet and Racord, officers of
the French Navy, who accompanied Count

♦ The coast between Cape Carambis^nd Sinope was
not seen by Captain Gauttier, who has therefore borrowed
that part from the Russian charts.

PREFACE.

XI

Choiseul GoufKer in his Embassy to the
Porte in 1784; and the result of whose la-
bours is published in thfe second volume
of M. Choiseul’s Voyage Pittoresque <le la
Grace.

In the interior of the peninsula the lati-
tude of some important points, as Kesaria,
Konia, Afiom Karahissar, Kut^iya, Ma-
nissa, Brusa, Isnik, have been observed
by Niebuhr, Browne, or by Messrs. Cha-
vasse and Kinneir : the remaining con-
struction is nothing more than the result
of a comparison of the ancient geographers
and historians with the routes of modern
travellers, and with the descriptions of two
Turkish geographers, who lived about the
middle of the seventeenth century— Mus-
tafa Ben Abdalla Kalib Tsheleby, com-
monly called Hadji Khalfa, and Abubekr
Ben Behrem of Damascus. Though little
is to be derived from these authors with
regard to the exact situation of towns,
their evidence on the orthography of names,
and their information on the political geo-
graphy, are of considerable utility.

The elder travellers, whose routes have

XU PREFACE.

served in the construction of the Map, may
be confined to Tavernier, I’ournefort, Paul
Lucas, Otter, and Pococke ; for Bertrandon
de la Brocquiere, de la Mottraye, and Le
Bruyn, afford no geographical matter that
is not contained in the others.

Tavernier informs us, in his introduction,
that he began his travels by a visit to En-
gland, in the reign of James the First; he
died in 1685. Although he crossed Asia
Minor several times, in the way to Persia,
where his commercial speculations carried
him, he has left us nothing more than a
very brief description of two caravan routes
to I’okat : the one from Constantinople, by
B61i, T6sia, and Amasia; the other from
Smyrna, by Kassaba, Allahshehr, Afiom
Karahiss^ir, Bulwudfin, and across the Salt
country to the Kizil-Ermak, which he pass-
ed at Kesre Kiupri.

Tournefort traversed Asia Minor only in
one direction, from Erzrfim by I’okat to
A'ngura, from whence he passed a little to
the north of Eski-shehr, to Brusa.

Paul Lucas was sent out in the year 1704,
by the same minister of Louis XIV. who

PREl’ACE.

XIU

employed Toumefort on a similar expedi-
tion in the Archipelago, the l^lack Sea, and
Armenia. But, unfortunately for our geo-
graphical knowledge of Asia Minor, Lucas’s
qualifications were very inferior to those of
his contemporary; nor does he appear to
have been well adapted, by previous study,
even for those branches of investigation to
which his attention was particularly direct-
ed by his employers ; namely, the collecting
of coins and inscriptions.

By assuming the medical character, he
secured a good reception at several of the
provincial towns, and protection from the
governors, as far as their authority extend-
ed ; but the banditti which at that period
infested every part of the country, obliged
him always to travel in haste, and often in
the night ; and he was not qualified to de-
rive as much advantage from journeys made
under such circumstances as a more expe-
rienced and more enlightened traveller
might have done. He was generally care-
ful in noting the time employed in each
stage ; but the names of places are often
disfigured by his careless mode of writing.

XIV

PllEFACK.

His ignorance and credulity made him de-
light in repeating the absurd tales which
the traveller so often hears in these half-
civilised countries; at the same time that
he omitted the insertion of manj' useful
observations which he could not have failed
to make. In some instances he has repeated
the fabulous accounts of the natives as if
he had himself witnessed them, "and has
thus rendered himself liable to the suspi-
cion of having wilfully imposed upon his
readers. '.I'here can be no doubt, however,
that his itinerary, abstracted from his nar-
rative, is as correct as he was capable of
making it. The geographical results, when
connected and compared with those of other
travellers, are a suflicient proof of this fact ;
and Lucas, with all his faults, has furnished
us with a greater number of routes than any
other traveller in Asia Minor. In 1705 he
went from Constantinople to Nicomedia,
Nica^a, and Brusa; from Brusa to Kutaya,
Eski-shehr, Angura, Kir-shehr, Kesaria;
from Kesaria to Nigde, Bor, Erkle, and
Konia ; from Konia to A'ngura, Beibaz^r,
Kiwa, Nicomedia, and Constantinople, to

PIM-.KACK.

XV

which city he returned in February 170().
In the autumn of the same year, after a
long journey in Cireece, he set out on a se-
cond tour in Asia Minor from Smyrna, tra-
velling by Sardes, to Allah- shehr, Alan-
kihi, Burdur, Susu, and AdAlia; from AdA-
lia to Susu, Isbarta, Egerder, Serkiserai,
and Konia ; from Konia toErkle, and over
Alount Taurus, by the Pyla> Ciliciie to
A'dana, Tarsus, and thence into Syria. In
a third journe)'^ in Asia Minor, in the year
1715, Lucas went from Smyrna to (Jhiuzel
HissAr by Tire ; from thence by the valley
of the Maander to Denixlii ; and from De-
nizlA by Burdur to Isbarta, from whence he
travelled the same; road as before to KA-
nia. He states also, but without giving any
particulars of his route, that he again visited
Kesaria; and that, after having returned to
to Konia, he once more proceeded by the
Pyhi' Ciliciie to A'dana and into Syria.

JJext to Lucas, Otter is the most useful
of the earlier travellers. He was a Swede,
sent to Persia by the Court of France in
1734. He crossed Asia Minor by the way
of Iznimid, Lefke, Inoghi, Eski-shehr, Ak-

XVI

PREl'AC’K.

shehr, Konia, Erkle, and A'dana ; and re-
turned from Persia by the route of Amasia
and IBoli. fJis narrative is chiefly valuable
■from his knowledge of the Turkish lan-
guage, and from his having previously
consulted some manuscript works in the
Royal Library at Paris, especially that of
Ibrahim Eft'endi, who first established a
Turkish press at Constantinople, and whose
information seems to accord with that of
Hadji Khalfa, and of Abubekr of Da-
mascus.

Among our own countrymen, Pococke
is the only traveller of the last century who
has published his route with sufficient pre-
cision to be of any use to the geographer;
but he has been extremely negligent in
noting bearings and distances : his narra-
tive is very obscure and confused ; and his
journey in Asia Minor is consequently of
much less importance than it might have
been made by so enlightened, learned,, and
persevering a traveller. In tlie year 1740,
after visiting a great part of Ionia and Ca-
ria, he ascended the valley of the Maeander
and its branches to Ishekli and Sandukli,

l»UF,PACE. xvii

from whence he crossed to Beiad, Sevri-
hissdr, and An'gura. From An'gura he
crossed to the northward into the great
eastern road from Constantinople, and re- ’
turned to that capital by the way of Boli-
and Nicomedia.

Niebuhr traversed Asia Minor in the
year 1766, on his return from India by the
way of Baghdad, Mostil, and Aleppo.
From Iskendertm he passed by Bayas to
Adana, and from thence by Erkle to K6-
nia, Karahissdr, Kutaya, and Brusa *.

In the year 1797, Browne returned from
the interior of Africa by the way of Asia
Minor. From Aleppo and Aintab, he tra-
versed the range of 1’aurus to Bostcin, Ke-
saria, An'gura, Sabanje, and Nicomedia.
Mr. M. Bruce -f* travelled the same route
in 1812, and has given us a diary of names
and distances not to be found in Browne's
printed book of travels.

^ An unfortunate fire destroyed the engravings pre-
pared for Niebuhr’s third volume, and put a stop to its
publication. I believe Major llcnnell is in possession of
a copy of the map of Niebuhr’s route through Asia Mi-
nor, struck from the plate before the fire.

+ See the appendix to Mr. Kinneir’s Travels.

xvm

PU KFACE.

It was in the year 1797, also, that Olivier
passed through Asia Minor, from Celen-
deris.by Mout, Laranda, K6nia, Ak-shehr,
Afiom Ka^hissar, Kutaya, Yenishehr, Ni-
c.ea, and Nicomedia.

Seetzen traversed Asia Minor from Con-
stantinople to Smyrna, and from Smyrna
to Afiom Karahiss4r, Ak-shehr, K6nia, La-
randa, Ibrala, and across Mount Taurus to
Karaduar (anciently Anchiale, the port of
Tarsus), from whence he passed by sea to
Seleuceia, the port of Antioch, now Sua-
dieh. The distances and the names of the
places which he passed through, written
with great care, have been preserved ; but
it is feared that the rest of his valuable
manuscripts are irretrievably lost*.

In the year 1801 , Browne again traversed
Asia Minor from Constantinople, by Nico-
media, Brusa, Kutaya, Afiom Karahissiir,
Ak-shehr, K6nia, Erkle, I'arsus.

Among recent travellers, Capt. M. Kin-
nier has furnished us with the greatest

* In the latter part of the last century, Griffiths and
Capper publislied their routes across the peninsula, from
S.E. to but without adding much to geography.

PREFACE.

XIX

number of routes. These are; 1. from
Constantinople, by Nicaea, Eski-shehr,
Seid-el-Ghazi, and Germa, to An'gura;
from An'gura, by Usk4t, to Kesaria ; and
from Kesaria, by Nigde, Ketch-hissar *,
and over Mount Taurus, by the Pylae Ci-
liciae, to Tarsus, Adana, and Iskenderhn.
2. From Celenderis to Mout, Ldranda,
K6nia, Ak-shehr, Afiom Karahissdr, Ku-
taya, Brusa, Muddnia. 3. From Constan-
tinople, by Nicomedia, Sabanje, Turbali,
Boli, Kastarndni-f-, Samsdn, Tarabizdn, to
Erzrdm.

* This is probably an error for Kilissa-Hiss4r, which,
according to Hadji Khalfa> is the name of a castle near
Bor; for the bearing and distance of Mi. Kinneir's Ketch-
Hissar from Nigde are sufficient to prove that it must
have been very near the Bor of Hadji Khalfa and Paul
Lucas.

t Mr. Kinneir calls this place Costambol ; but the
Turkish geographers give it the name in the text, which
in fact is nothing more than a slight corruption of Casta*-
inon, its Greek name under the Byzantine empire. See
Anna Comnena, 1. 7. p. 206. — Nicet. in Joan. Comnen.
— Chalcocond. 1. 9. p. 259. — Leuncl. Annal. Turc. —
It is to be regretted that Mr. Kinneir was not more care-
ful in his orthography of places, which often requires
correction from Hadji Khalfa, or modern travellers. Like
Pococke he has omitted, in giving us his computation of

C

Mr. Kinneir was also one of the many
persons who, during the late war, crossed
the northeni part of Asia Minor, to or from
Persia by the way of Boli, Amasia, and
Tokfit.

Another roadj which has been still more
followed, is from Brusa or from Mikhalitza,
by Ulubad and Magnesia, to Smyrna, or
in the opposite direction : the latitudes of
all the principal places on it have been de-
termined by Browne *. Of this and of se-
veral other routes in the ancient provinces

miles, to add the actual measure by the watch, which is
generally the more useful of the two,

* The following are among some of the observations of
tlie latitude of places on the road from Sisiyrna to Con-
stantinople, made by Mr, Browne, They are taken from
his manuscript papers.

Latitude. Longitude.

Smyrna ... 38® 28' 7" 27° 6' 48'

Magnesia . . S8° 41' 30"

Dcmir Kapu . 39^ 49' 0"

Balikesr . . . 39° 32' 0"

Ulubad ... 40° 9' 30"

Mikhalitza . . 40° l6' 30"

Brusa ... 40° 9' 30"

Yenishelir , . 40° 12' 0"

Kizdervcnt . . 40° 32' 0"

Nicsea . - . 40° 21' SO"

I'KKFAC r:.

XXI

of Mysia, I^ydia, Ionia, and Caria, we
have descriptions in Smith, Wheler, Spon,
Chishull,Pococke,Picenini, Chandler, and
Choiseul Gouffier.

The authorities upon which our know-
ledge of the ancien# geography of Asia Mi-
nor is chiefly founded, are the works of
Strabo, Ptolemy*, Pliny, Stephanus By-
zantinus, the curious table or map of roads
called the Peutingerian Table, the Anto-
nine and Jerusalem Itineraries ■f, the Sy-
necdemus of Hierocles, and the following
historical narratives of some celebrated mi-
litary expeditions : — 1. The Journal by Xe-
nophon of the route of Cyrus from Sar-
des to Celaenac, and from thence to Ico-

* It is almost unnecessary to remark that the latitudes
and longitudes of Ptolemy arc of very little use, though
they may be sometimes employed as a concurrent testi-
mony in proof of the vicinity of places.

+ The routes of these three itineraries are described
upon tlie map by a double line; and thus tlie part of the
I'eutingcr Table relating to Asia Minor is (I believe for
the first time) placed upon the real projection. Tliis part
of the Table has at the same lime been engraved on tlic
same plate with the Map, for the greater convenience of
reference and comparison.

X Anlc (.'hristum, 401.

c 2

XXll

VREFAt'K.

Ilium ; and through Lycaonia and part of
Cappadocia, and over Mount Taurus to
Tarsus. 2. Arrian’s history of the conquest
of Asia Minor by Alexander ; in which the
part more particularly worthy of the geo-
grapher’s attention is the march from Lycia
into Pamphylia and Pisidia, and thence to
(iordium in Phrygia, and to Ancyra, and
through Cappadocia and the Pylm Ciliciae
to Tarsus*. 3. The history of the Roman
wars in Asia by Polybius, Livy, and Ap-
pian ; especially the description by Livy
of the marches of Cn. Manlius, in Phrygia,
Pamphylia, and Pisidia, and thence into
Gallograecia, and to Ancyra 4. The
march of the Emperor Alexius Comnenus,
from Constantinople to Iconium, in an ex-
pedition against the Turks, as related by
his daughter Anna Comnena.

To these may be added, with regard to
the southern coast, an anonymous Periplus,
entitled, “ trradtowfMf fi>tyccX>ig ^aXaavfig,"
which was extracted from a manuscript in
the Royal Library of Madrid, and publish-
ed in a volume called Regim Bibliotheca*
*A.C.353- tA. C. 189.

PREFACE.

XXlll

Matritensis Codices Graeci MSS. by the
librarian Iriarte, in the year 1769. Hut
the best and most numerous evidences of
ancient geography are those which still
exist in the country itself, in the ruins of
the ancient cities, and in the inscriptions
and other monuments which may be found
there. When these remains of antiquity
<|1^1 be thoroughly explored, and the results
compared with the geographers, with the
itineraries and with the passages of history
just referred to, they will probably lead to a
system of Ancient Geography in Asia Mi-
nor, much more correct than we at present
possess For while we are still ignorant of

* An inquiry into the situation of tlie sees of the Greek
bishoprics of the Lower Lmpire may sometimes assist the
traveller in the discovery of the ancient Pagan sites. In
regard to the smaller places, this method may not often
be successful, Turkish conquest and Christian depopula-
tion having gradually obliterated the greater part of them ;
but it is difficult to supiK)sc that the metropolitan, and
some others of the more important sees, which are at the
same time desiderata of ancient geography , — such as Syn-
nada, Antiocheia of Pisidia, Perge, Philomcliiun, lY^ssi-
nus, Amorium,— -should be unknown to the Christians of
Asia Minor, although their names may be no longer in
common use.

XXIV

P K KI’ACK.

the exact position of such important points
as Gordium, Pessinus, Synnada, Celaenae,
Cibyra, Sagalassus, Aspendus, Selge, An-
tioch of Pisidia and Isaura, it is almost
a vain attempt to form any satisfactory sy-
stem ; as the several parts of it must de-
pend so much upon one another, and upon
an accurate determination of the principal
places.

After this remark, the reader will not be
surprised, upon consulting the map, to find
that not only the boundaries of the pro-
vinces or districts are indistinctly marked,
but that even the names of places, both an-
cient and modern, are often inserted with-
out the usual note of exact locality.

The ancient provincial divisions are dis-
tributed according to the description of
Strabo ; or, in other words, according to
their usual acceptation at the time of the
establishment of the Roman Empire, when,
as they ceased to have any political use,
their boundaries became, as they had al-
ways in some degree been, extremely un-
certain.

'rhe appellations of the Turkish districts

IMlKI'ACIi.

X\V

are either derived from the principal town
of each district, or from the names of those
chieftains who, together with the founder
of the Ottoman dynasty, shared Asia Mi-
nor among them, on the breaking up of the .
Seljukian kingdom of Iconium, at the death
of Aladin the Second, about the year 13(X)
of the Christian asra. These chieftains
were, Karamdn, KermiAn, Teke, Aidin,
Sarukhdn> Sassan or Sagla, and Karasi.
Mfintesha, the appellation of the south-
western corner of Asia Minor, is sup-
posed to be a corruption of Myndesia, or
the country of Myndus ; and this is the
only district, therefore, the name of which
the Turks adopted from the conquered
people.

All the north-eastern part of the penin-
sula fell to the share, of Amur and his sons,
but its divisions were not distinguished by
their names.

Osman, who inherited the country around
Shughut from his father Ertogrul, soon in-
creased his territory by the country to the
northward and westward of that town, as
far as the Propontis and (he Plack Sea

XXVI

ruKrACE.

This part of the peninsula still retains the
appellation of Khodja-Ili, or the country
of Khodja, given to it in honour of Aktshe
Khodja, the officer of Osman, who effected
the conquest.

Khodavenkiar*, which was the surname
of Murad, son of Orkhan son of Osman,
has been attached to the district of Brusa
ever since Orkhan, having conquered that
country from the Greeks, confided the go-
vernment of it to his son.

Kermidn-oglu, or the successor of Ker-
mian-j', was the first of the Turkish princes
of Asia Minor who resigned a part of his
dominions to the house of Osman, and who
put his family under their protection, by
the marriage of his daughter with the son of
Murad, the celebrated Bayazid. During the
three subsequent reigns, those princes were
generally tributary to, but not otherwise dc-

* An Arabic word, meaning mastery ruler,

+ This name has been supposed to prove that Kutaya,
the capital of Kermian, stands on the site of the KspaiAoov
ayopoL of Xenophon ; but there is no doubt that Kermian
is a Turkish name, and foreign to ancient Asia Minor.
The mosque of Sultan Kermian still exists at Kutaya.

IMIKFACE.

xxvn

pendent on, the Ottoman monarchs, whom
they often resisted in the field ; and it was
not until the family of Isfendiar, who go-
verned in Heracleia Pontica, Castamon,
and Sinope, was reduced by Mahomet the
Second, and the kingdom of Karaman by
Bayazid the Second, in the year 1486, that
the whole of Asia Minor became an Otto-
man province.

Thus much it seemed necessary to re-
call to the reader’s recollection, in expla-
nation of the Turkish provincial names in
tlie map.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER 1.

Journey from Constantinople to Konia I

CHAPTER 11.

Illustration of the Ancient Gography of the Central Part
of Asia Minor r> I

CHAFFER HI.

Continuation of the Journey. — From Konia to Cyprus,
.Alaia, and Shughut • • 93

CHAI^ER IV.

Of the ancient places on the road from Adalia to Shughut,
including remarks on the comparative geography of the
adjacent country 1 1*1

CHAPTER V.

Of the ancient places on the southern coast of Asia Minor 171

CHAPTER VI.

Some remarks on the comparative geography of the west-
ern and northern parts of Asia Minor 219

ADDITIONAL NOTES.

I , On the military operations of the first Crusade in Asia
Minor 3 1 .'i

CONTENTS.

2. Another error in Xenophon's march of Cyrus 319

3. On Cilicia and the position of Claudiopolis 319

4 . On the Theatres of Telmissus and Patara 320

5. On the distinction between the Greek and Roman

Theatre. Peculiarities of the Asiatic Greek theatre.
Dimensions of the principal Greek theatres 321

6. On a Latin inscription at Stratoniceia^ relating to the

prices of various commodities 329

7. On a Greek inscription at Mylasa 328

8. Two Greek inscriptions^ proving the site of Tralles ... 339

9. Plans of the Theatre and Palaestra of Hierapolis. On the

Plutonium at the same place 340

10. A description of the antiquities of Sardes, by Mr.

Cockerell 342

1 1 . On the principal Temples of Asia Minor 340

12. On the description of the battle of Magnesia by Ap-

pian 352

JOURNAL OF A TOUR

I N

ASIA MINOR,

8fc.

CHAPl’ER I.

JOURNEY FROM CONSTANTINOPLE TO k6n1a.

Departure from Couslaniinopk — Karlal — Ghehse — Kizderwmt
— Lake Ascanhis — Niccea — Site of the ancient Towm hetiveen
Constantinople and Niccsa — Ruins of Niciea — Lefke — ^huff-
hut — Eski-shehr, the a?icient Dorylaum — Seid-el- Ghazi —
DoganlU, probably the anciejit Nacoleia — Kosru-Khan — Bui-
wndun — Isaklu — Ak-shehr — llgdn — Ladi'k — Ruins of Lao*
diceia — Kdnia,

On the 19th of January 1800, I quitted Constan-
tinople, on my way to Egypt, in company with the
late Brigadier General Koehler, the late Sir Richard
Fletcher, the late Archdeacon Carlyle, Arabic pro-
fessor at Cambridge, and Mr. Pink, of the corps of
Royal Military Surveyors, and Draftsmen. We
were well armed, and dressed as Tatdr Couriers ;
and the whole party, including servants, baggage.

Turkish attencUints, and postillions, formed a cara-
van of thirty-five horses. At this time, there were
two roads across Asia Minor, used by messengers
and other persons, travelling post between the
Grand Vizier’s army, and the capital; the one
meeting the south coast at Adalia, the other at
Kel^nderi, We deferred deciding as to which we
should follow, until we should arrive at the point
of separation.

W e left Iskiodiir (in Greek, ^xovrugwPy Skutdri)
at II A.M., and travelled for four hours along the
borders of the sea of Marmora, through one of the
most delightful tracts in the neighbourhood of Con-
stantinople ; its beauty heightened by the mildness
of the weather and the clearness of the atmosphere.
On our right was the tranquil expanse of the sea of
Marmora, as far as the high woody coast on the
south side of Nicomedia, surmounted by the ma-
jestic summits of the Bithynlan Olympus. In the
midst of this magnificent basin were seen imme-
diately before us the Princes Islands, with tlieir pic-
turesque villages and convents, amidst pine groves
and vineyards. The road led sometimes through
rich pastures, covered with sheep, but, for the most
part, through the gardens which supply a large pro-
portion of the vegetables consumed in the city and
its suburbs. Already the beans, and other produc-
tions of the spring, were in a forward state. The
road was in some places muddy, but in general

Ch. 1.

3

very good. Kartal, where we arrived at the end ot
four hours, is a small place upon the edge of the
gulf, in the midst of a fertile and well cultivated
district, and has a harbour for small vessels. Half
an hour further is a Greek village, which preserves
unaltered the ancient name pronounced

Pandikhi.

Jan. 20. — ^Froin Kartal to Ghebse * five hours,
passing through Pandikhi ; and at the end of three
hours Tuzla, so called from the salt-works belong-
ing to it. The road winds along the side of the
gulf, which, as it narrows, presents a great variety
of beautiful landscapes. The soil affords a fine
pasture, in some parts of which appear rocks of
blue and white marble, projecting above the sur-
face; and several remains of ancient quarries. We
met a Mollah travelling in a Taktrevdn, lounging
upon soft cushions, smoking his Narghild -f', and
accompanied by splendidly-dressed attendants on
horseback. His baggage-horses were loaded with
mattresses and coverings for his sofas ; with valises
containing his clothes ; a large assortment of pipes;

* The rule which I have observed in writing Turkish names,
requires the reader to pronounce the vowels as in Italian,
and the consonants as in English, Gh, Dh, and Kh, are in-
tended to express the aspirated forms of G, D, K. The ac-
cent is marked in all words, the sound of which might be
doubtful without it.

t A kind of pipe in which the smoke is made to pass through
water : used in every part of the East.

B 2

4

Cli. 1.

tables of copper ; cauldrons ; saucepans ; and a
complete hatlcrie de cuisine* Such a mode of tra-
velling is undoubtedly very different from that
which was in use among the Turks of Osman, and
Orkhan. The articles of the Mollah’s baggage
are, probably, for the most part, of Greek origin,
adopted from the conquered nation in the same
manner as the Latins borrowed the arts of the
Greeks of a better age. In fact, it is in a great
degree to Greek luxuries, with the addition of coffee
and tobacco, that the present imbecile condition of
these barbarians is to be ascribed ; and “ Graecia
capta ferum victorem cepit ” applies as well to the
Turk as it once did to the Roman ; for though
Grecian art in its perfection may be degraded by a
comparison with the arts of the Byzantine Greeks,
yet in the scale of civilization, the Turks did not
bear a higher proportion to these than the Romans
did to the ancient (ireeks.

Ghebse, called by the Greeks (Jivyza* (K/£t>^a),
is a Turkish town, having a few Greek houses.
The only remarkable object in it is a line mosque
of white marble, surrounded by a grove of large

* The initial K, P, T, in names o. places have generally
among the modern (ireeks the sound of G, li, I) : this arises
from their practice of using those names in the accusative case
preceded by o-rijv ; for v before jc, tt, r, gives the harder kindred
sound to the vowel wliich follows. Hefore the v becomes con-
verted into^ m : as, KoXiv — Constantinople, pronounced

stim bolin. M'licnce the Turkish Stinnl)ol.

Cli. 1.

5

cypresses, both of the pointed kind and of that of
which the branches are looser and more spreading.
This mosque, and some good baths, were built by
Mustafa Pasha, who was Grand Vizier to Sultdri
Selim the First at the time of the conquest of Egypt.
An imperfect Greek inscription was the only indi-
cation which I observed of Ghebse being on the
site of a Greek city.

Jan. 21. — From Ghebse to Kizderw^nt, nine
hours. Our route for the first three hours was pa-
rallel to the shore of the gulf, which here presents,
on either side, a beautiful scenery of abrupt capes
and woody promontories, with villages upon the
sides of the mountains, and corn-fields and vine-
yards to their very tops. The road then descends to
the water-side under the small village of Malsum,
where a long tongue of land, projecting from the
opposite shore, affords a convenient ferry of about
two miles across, to the south side of the gulf. It
is called the ferry of the Dil (tongue), and being
much frequented, is well supplied with large boats
and constant attendance. The persons employed
in it are lodged in tents by the water-side. We
write to our friends at Constantinople by a hunts-
man of the Sultan, who is returning from the chace
loaded with pheasants, partridges, and other game,
which he Iras been killing for the Imperial table in
the woods near the gulf. It takes us two hours to
unload, cross the ferry, and reload. ^Vc then ride

6

Ch. 1.

three miles along the Dil before we gain the line of
coast. Leaving the town of Ersek at no great di-
stance on our right, we proceed up a beautiful val-
ley, watered by a river which joins the gulf near the
Dil. This river we cross more than twenty times;
passing through the water, or over good stone
bridges. In many places the river falls in cascades
over the rocks. The sky is without a cloud ; and
the temperature that of England in April or May.
The ground is covered with violets, crocusses, and
hyacinths. The road being excellent, we travel
nearly at the rate of four miles and a half an hour,
and complete our computed journey of nine hours
in seven. We passed a ruined castle of the lower
Greek empire, with many towers. On the slopes
on either side are seen flocks of sheep and goats ;
in the valley the peasants are at plough, and we
meet long caravans of camels tied together, and
preceded by an ass. As we approach Kizderwent,
which is situated in a retired part of the valley,
near the source of the river which we have been
following, we enter an extensive mulberry planta-
tion, this being one of the numerous villages in the
neighbourhood that supply Brusa with the excellent
silk for which it is noted in the commercial world.
Vineyards, on the slopes of the hills around, furnish
also a tolerable wine. Kizderwent (the pass of the
girls) having the misfortune to lie upon the great
road from Constaiitinuplc to Brusa, Kutaya, and

Ch. 1.

7

Konia^ is exposed to a thousand vexations from
passengers, notwithstanding the privileges and ex-
emptions which have been granted to it by the
Porte. It is inhabited solely by Greeks. Upon our
arrival we found our konakji, or Tatar courier, who
has the charge of riding forward to procure lodgings
(konak), seated over a blazing fire in a neat cottage,
which formed a favourable contrast to the meanness
and want of comfort seen amidst the pretended mag-
nificence of some of the Turkish houses which we
had seen. To judge from what we have hitherto
observed, the lower order of Christians are not in a
worse condition in Asia Minor than the same class
of Turks ; and if the Christians of European Turkey
have some advantages arising from the elfects of the
superiority of their numbers over theTurks, those of
Asia have the satisfaction of seeing that tlie Turks
are as much oppressed by the men in power as they
are themselves ; and they have to deal with a race
of Mussulmans generally milder, more religious,
and better principled than those of Europe.

Jan. 22. — We travel in a fine valley, continually
ascending. At the end of an hour we come sud-
denly upon a view of the lake Ascanius. It is about
ten miles long, and four wide; surrounded on thn*e
sides by steep woody slopes, behind which rise the
snowy summits of the Olympus range. A forest of
Ilex, and other evergreens, mixed with oaks, cover
the nearer hills; while on the left, along the head of

8

Ch. 1.

the lake, we perceive a rich cultivated plain, at the
extremity of which, soon afterwards appears, on the
edge of the lake, the entire circuit of the ancient
walls of Nicaea, with their massy towers and gates.
Nojthing is more striking in this magnificent pro-
spect, than that clearness of atmosphere, and bril-
liancy of colouring, which is so seldom seen in our
northern scenery. We make the circuit of the
northern end of the lake ; passing for ten miles
through the plain, and traversing plantations of
olives, mulberries, and vines : the almond-trees
were already in blossom. At about two miles on
our left, we saw an ancient triangular obelisk, stand-
ing single in the middle of the plain. It bears an in-
scription, which has been published by Pococke,
and which proves that the obelisk was erected in
honour of C. Cassius Philiscus. Having passed
through one of the ancient gates of Nicica, and
through the garden ground now inclosed within its
walls, we arrive at the wretched Turkish town of
Isnik, distant five complete hours, or about twenty
miles, from Kizderw^nt.

Among the ancient places situated between Con-
stantinople and Nicaea, there is sufficient evidence
of the situation of Seutarium * and Pantichiuin
in the preservation of their ancient names. Givyza

* Op^dvyjs .... It DOS "Toy Bv^avTlov Ty/ Uspalocv, 3

T'AQutdpioy Ipyjupiios — Caiitacuz. 1. 1. c. 1.

I Anlonin. Itiii. td p. 13^. Hicioool. It. p. 572.

Ch- 1.

9

has generally been supposed a corruption of Libys-
sa, the name of a small maritime town, celebrated
as having been the burying-place of Hannibal ; but
Givyza is more probably a corruption of Dacibyza ;
being, when written in Greek (K/£y^a), no other
than the ancient Aa«/Sy^a, with the loss of the first
syllable. The thirty-six or thirty-nine Roman miles,
moreover, placed in the itinerary, between Chalce-
donia and Libyssa, will not agree so well with the
nine hours from Skutdri to Givyza, as with the
twelve hours to Malsiim ; which place, therefore, I
take to stand on the site of Libyssa. Plutarch ap-
pears to confirm this supposition, for in mentioning
Libyssa*, he speaks of a sandy place near it on the
^ea-side, answering to the promontory of Dil, which,
as we have seen, is immediately below Maldysem or
Malsum. Dacibyza is mentioned by several of the
historians of the Lower Empire, as a place where,
by order of the A rian Emperor Valens, eighty priests
of the opposite sect were burned, with the ship
wherein they were embarked f . The river descend-
ing from Kizderwdnt to the Dil, can be no other
than the Draco, which joined the sea at Helenopolis,
a small town, so named by Constantine in honour
of his mother : for it seems evident, upon compar-

* 'Ey hi^vvla rcKOf J<rr) oliro baXatrcrv^t xa) irphs

aorw XW/X 1 J ns ov Ai^v<r<ra xaXsTrai — Plutarch, in Flam.

t ZouaraSj 1. 13. c. Ifi. Socrates, 1. 4. c. 16. Sozomcn 6.
r. 14. Cedrenus, p. 31 1 . Theophanes, p. 50.

10

Ch. K

ing Procopius with Anna Comnena, that Helenopo-
lis was at or near Ersek. The Dil has been formed
by the alluvial deposition of the Draco; whose impe-
tuosity has been well described by Procopius, as well
as its winding course *. In riding from the Dil to
Kizderw^nt, I remarked that we traversed the river
about twenty times, without being aware that Pro-
copius has made precisely the same remark with
regard to the Draco t* — In the first crusade, the
passes of this stream were fatal to many of the fol-
lowers of Peter the Hermit ; who, after having by
the assistance of the Emperor Alexius crossed the
sea from Constantinople, encamped at Helenopolis.
From thence they proceeded to ravage the country
around Nicaea, which city was then in the posses^
sion of the Turks of Kilidj Arslan ; and they occu-
pied the fortress of Xerigordus. But this place was
soon retaken by the Sultan ; who slew many of the
Franks, captured others, and destroyed a still greater
number by means of an ambuscade, wdiich he sta-
tioned in the passes of the Draco

In the evening we found time to walk among the
ruins of Nicaea. The ancient walls, towers, and
gates are in tolerably good preservation. Their

Procop. de ^dif. 1. 5. c. 2. Hist. Arcan. c. 30. Anna Comn.

1. 10. p. 287.

t AiaSaivgiv auTOv irXgToy tJ gJxoo-dxij hr) roTj rrSa louert.
Proc. de iEdif. 1. r>. c 2.

J Anna Comnena, 1. 10. p. 286. ed. Paris.

Ch. 1.

11

construction resembles that of tlie walls of Con-
stantinople, with which they are coaeval. In moat
places they are formed of alternate courses of Ro-
man tiles, and of large square stones, joined by a ce-
ment of great thickness. In some places have been
inserted columns, and other architectural fragments,
the ruins of more ancient edifices. Of the towers,
those on the edge of the lake, and on either side of
the different gates, are the largest and most perfect.
We remark, also, the remains of two walls which
projected from the main inclosure into the water,
and which were undoubtedly intended to exclude,
when necessary, all communication under the walls,
along the edge of the lake. Some of the towers,
like those of Constantinople, have Greek inscrip-
tions; these have been published in the Inscrip-
tiones Antiquje of Pococke. The ruins of mosques,
baths, and houses, dispersed among the gardens
and corn-fields, which now occupy a great part of
the space within the Greek fortifications, show that
the Turkish Isnik, though now so inconsiderable,
was once a place of iraportanc*e, as indeed its hi-
story under the early Ottomans, before they were
in possession of Constantinople, gives suflicient rea-
son to presume. Rut it never was so large as the
(irecian Nicjea, and it seems to have been almost
entirely constructed of the remains of that city;
the walls of the ruined mosques and baths being full
of the fragments of Greek temples and ehurches.

12

Ch. I.

Jan. 23. — From Isnik to Lefke, six hours, and
from Lefke to Vezir-Khan, four hours. We rise
at two in the morning ; but as it takes near three
liours for the whole party to breakfast, pack up the
baggage, and load the horses, we are not ready till
five, and have then to wait an hour and a half for
horses. We soon leave the borders of the beauti-
ful lake of Isnik, and proceed up a valley, which we
quit after three or four miles, and suddenly ascend
to the left a hill of moderate height. Soon losing
sight of the lake, we advance along an elevated bar-
ren country, until we enter a deep ravine formed by
towering cliffs on either side, where a great variety of
luxuriant evergreens spring from among the rocks.
The ravine leads into a valley, wliere the same kind
of scenery receives additional beauty from the con-
trast which opens upon UvS of a fine valley, watered
by the Sakaria, a name corrupted from the an-
cient Sangarius, although this river is not the
main branch of the Sangarius, but that which was
anciently called Gallus Lefke, a neat town built
of sun-baked bricks, is situated in the middle of
this beautiful valley near the river, which we crossed

* A similar confusion as to the Gallus and Sangarius seems
to have prevailed in ancient times. Hcrodian places the city
Pessinus on the (hdliisj although we know from Polybius,
Idvy, and Strabo, that it stood on the banks of the Sangarius, *
not far from tlie sources of that river. Strabo, in describing
the Gallus as the branch which joins the main river 300 stadcs
limn Nioomedia, Iiun identified it with ihe river of Lefke.

Ch. 1.

13

by a handsome stone bridge a little before we en-
tered the town. We find the cultivation in this
valley as perfect as that of some of the most civi-
lized parts of Europe. The fields are separated by
neat hedges and ditches. Extensive plantations of
mulberry-trees, mixed with vineyards and corn-
fields, occupy the lower grounds, while cultivated
patches are seen to a great height in the hills,
which in other parts furnish a fine pasture to sheep
and goats. This delightful region exhibits a most
picturesque contrast with the unevenness and gran-
deur of the surrounding mountains. We were told
there had lately been an insurrection, with the de-
sign of expelling an obnoxious Kadi, but we did
not perceive the least symptom of disturbance.
We follow the valley, passing many villages on
either hand, for four hours more, to Vezir-Khan.
Since leaving the gulf of Nicomedia w^e have seen
no marks of wheel-carriages, and we met with
scarcely any person on the road during this day’s
journey, except a party of Turkish horsemen with
their dogs, in search of hares. The Turks of this
part of the country are an extremely handsome
race: they have a great variety of head-dresses,
most of which are highly becoming to their fine
countenances. The women who appear abroad are
invariably dressed in the shapeless ferije, and the
veil so often described by travellers. At Vezir-
Khan we were lodged in a small mud-built house.

14

Ch. 1.

and had to wait a considerable time before our at-
tendants could prevail upon the people to kill the
fowls intended for our dinner, and to send men to
the river to catch some fish. The valley around is
covered with extensive plantations of mulberry-
trees, and with orchards, vineyards, and corn-fields,
inclosed with hedges ; but to these signs of neat-
ness and comfort there is a great contrast in the
misery of the liouses.

Jan. 24. — From Vezir-Khan to Shughut, eight
hours : the weather still delightfully clear and mild.
For the first two hours we continue to pursue the
valley, and then ascend a lofty ridge, a branch of
Olympus. It incloses on the east the valleys wa-
tered by the branches of the Sangarius which we
have passed, as the heights between Isnik and
Lefke do on the opposite side. Our road across
the mountain presents some wild scenery of broken
rocks and barren downs with little or no wood,
and occasionally the view of extensive valleys on
either side. At the summit of the ridge we pass
a Karakol-han^ (guard-house), and at the foot of
the mountain on the east side we enter some plea-
sant valleys, conducting into an open expanse of
undulated ground, well cultivated with corn. It
gives a favourable idea of Asiatic husbandry ; but
there is little appearance of inhabitants, only three
or four small villages being in sight in the whole
of our day’s journey. The weather being dry the

Ch. 1.

15

road is excellent ; but in seasons of rain it must be
quite the reverse, on account of the rich deep soil.
At the further end of this champaign country we
perceive the town of Shughut, and upon an adja-
cent hill the tomb of Ali Osman, founder of the
Ottoman dynasty. Shughut was bestowed upon
Ertogrul, the father of Osman, by the Sultan of
Kdnia, for his services in war; and became the
capital of a small state, which included the adja-
cent country as far as A'ngura on the east, and in
the opposite direction all the mountainous district
lying between the valleys of the Sangarius and
those of the Ilermus and Maeander. From hence
Osman made himself master of Nicsea and Prusa,
and gradually of all Bithynia and Phrygia, and thus
laid the foundations of tlie Turkish greatness.
There is another tomb of Osman at Bnisa, the most
important of the places which he conquered from the
Greeks. But the Turks of this part of Asia Minor
assert that the monument at Bnisa is a cenotapli,
and that the bones of Osman were laid by the side
of those of his father Ertogrul in his native town.
The tomb is built like some of the handsomest and
most ancient of the Turkish sepulchres at Constan-
tinople, and is situated in the midst of a grove of
cypresses and evergreen oaks.

The town is said to contain 900 houses, but now
exhibits a wretched appearance, chiefly in conse-
quence of a late insurrection of the inhabitants, a

party of 300 of whom have put to death, within
three months, three different Ayans sent here by
the Porte. At present the government of Constan-
tinople has the upper hand, and the insurgents
have been obliged to fly to the mountains ; but we
find the new governor with all his troops still on
the alei'te to prevent the place from being once
more surprised and pillaged. Our situation is ren-
dered still more uncomfortable by the discovery we
now make, that our travelling firmahn, in conse-
quence of an intrigue at Constantinople, of which
we too well know the original mover, is drawn up
in such a manner as to leave it in the power of any
of the Turks to obstruct our progress ; and the
Ayan of Shughut accordingly takes advantage of it
to extort a present before he will give us the small-
est assistance. We arc wretchedly lodged in a
ruinous apartment over a stable occupied by the
Ayan’s cavalry; and cannot prevent the soldiers
from coming into the room, or from examining our
arms and baggage. There are large plantations of
mulberries around the towm, and every house ma-
nufactures a considerable quantity of raw silk.

Jan. 25. — It is nine o'clock before we can pro-
cure any horses, and then find none to be had but
some wretched animals covered with sores, and al-
most skeletons. At first setting out they are hardly
able to walk ; but to our surprise we find, before
we have travelled many miles, that most of iheni

Cli. 1.

17

have a very easy and rapid pace ; they performed
a journey of ten hours’ distance with only a few
short halts, and arrived at our konak at Eski-shehr
apparently in better travelling condition than when
they set out. Our road indeed is dry and level,
and the weather still fine. Half the route was over
mountains, and woody ; the latter half over an ex-
tensive plain not less than 30 miles in length and
10 in breadth, but very thinly peopled and not
above one-third cultivated. Seven or eight miles
short of Eski-shehr are some ancient Greek ruins
upon a rising ground in the plain. Amidst a great
number of scattered fragments of columns, and
other remnants of architecture, we find several
square pedestals or <rr^Xai of a clumsy construction,
with some almost-defaced fragments of Greek in-
scriptions, in which we endeavoured in vain to dis-
cover the name of the city, though the word voKig
was visible. The ruins are called Besh-Kardash
(the five brothers) ; the number of pedestals stand-
ing, however, is more than five, but five is a fa-
vourite number with the Turks : the generality of
whom, having little idea of numerical accuracy,
confine themselves in common conversation to a
few numbers, which they particularly affect. These
numbers are 5, 15, 40, 100, and 1001.

Eski-shehr is about the same size as Shughut,
and is advantageously situated on the root of the
hills which border on the north the great plain

18

Ch. 1.

already mentioned. The town is divided Into an
upper and lower quarter; and is traversed by a
small stream, which at the foot of the hills joins
the Pursek, or ancient Thymbres. This river rises
to the south of Kutaya, passes by that city, and joins
the Sangarius a few hours to the north-east of Eski-
shehr. This place is now celebrated for its natural
hot-baths: we were unable to ascertain whether
it preserves any remains of antiquity * ; but there
can be little doubt that it stands upon the site of
Dorylseum. The plain of Dorylaeum is often men-
tioned by the Byzantine historians as the place of
assembly of the armies of the Eastern empire in
their wars against the Turks, and it is described by
Anna Comnena'^ as being the first extensive plain
of Phrygia after crossing the ridges of Mount
Olympus from Nicsea, and after passing Leucfe.
As we have the strongest evidence of the position
of Leucae in the name of the village Lefke, which
is exactly the modern pronunciation of the Greek
Agy^a/, there cannot be any doubt that the plain of
Dorylaeum is that which surrounds Eski-shehr.

The site of the ancient town is not less decisively
fixed at Eski-shehr. Athenaeus speaks of the hot

* Mr. M. Kinneir found some antique remains, and copied
some Christian Greek inscriptions here. I’aul J^ucas found some
ruins, and transcribed some incomplete inscriptions at an Ar-
menian village an hour and a half from Eski-shehr.

I Ann. ('omn. 1. 1 1. p. 317 — . 1. E). p. 4(>9.

Ch. 1.

19

waters of Dorylfeum, and remarks that they are very
pleasant to the taste. CInnamus mentions the hot
baths, the fertile plain, and the river of Dorylseum* ;
and the site is indicated with equal certainty by
the ancient itineraries-^: for from Dorylseum di-
verged roads, to Philadelphia; to Apameia Cibotiis;
to Laodiceia Combusta, and Iconiiim ; to Germa,
and to Pessinus : a coincidence of lines which
(their remote extremities being nearly certain) will
not apply to any point but Eski-shehr, or some
place in its immediate neighbourhood. The posi-
tion of Eski-shehr accords also with the Antonine
and Jerusalem itineraries, inasmuch as we observe
in these tables, that the road from Nicaea to An-
cyra did not pass through Dorylteum, but to the
northward of it; and Eski-shehr is about thirty
miles to the southward of a line drawn from Isnik
to A'ngura.

The Aga of Eski-shehr was formerly in the go-
vernment of a town six hours distant, the name of
which we neglected to note. He had long been at
war with the governor of Eski-shehr, and at length
[laving acquired the jireponderancy so far as to carry
off all his opponent’s sheep and cattle, he followed
up his successes last year with such increased energy
that he added his rival’s head to the other spoils,
and has since been in undisturbed possession of

* Athcn. 1. 2, c. 5. ed. Casaub. Cinnam. 1. G. c. 71.

i Tab. Peutingfr. Segm. vi. Anton. Itin. p. 202.

20 Ch. i.

both places, and confirmed in his authority by the
Porte.

Jan. 26. — From Eski-shehr to Seid-el-Ghazi, a
computed distance of nine hours. We have a sharp
wind at east. Our road for the first half of the jour-
ney continues to cross the same wide uncultivated
plains ; but towards the end they are more broken
into hill and dale, and appear less wild and desolate.
Scarcely a tree is to be seen through the whole
day’s journey. Upon the edge of the plains we
observe in many places sepulchral chambers exca-
vated in the rocks. In these, and in the fragments
of ancient architecture dispersed in diflerent parts
of the plains, we have undoubted proofs of their an-
cient cultivation and populousness. At about half
way we found, near a fountain, several inscribed
stones. The annexed is the only inscription I could
decypher :

AUMAUKAI
lAIOEYlIEP
BOCDNIAICDNIIA
fflAAf ir.CJDTH
PIEYXUNKAI
HPARAHANIK
HT.

It appears to be a dedication of thanks to Jupiter
Papias, the Saviour, and Hercules, the Invincible,
for their care of the oxen of Demas and Gains.

This inscription is upon a flat slab, surmounted
with a pediment, in the middle of which is a caput
6or/>, with a festoon. Here also is a square stele,

Ch. 1 .

21

with an ornamented cornice ; on one of its sides
is an obliterated inscription, in the centre of a gar-
land.

The latter part of our journey is over low ridges ;
the road throughout is excellent, and fit for wheel-
carriages. Seid-el-Ghazi is a poor ruined village,
but it bears marks of having once been a place of
more importance, even in Turkish times ; upon
the side of a hill which commands the village, there
is a fine mosque dedicated to the Mussulman saint
from whom the place derives its name. There are
also several fragments of architecture which fix it
as the site of an ancient Greek city.

Jan. 27. — From Seid-el-Ghazi to Kosru Pasha-
Khany, the distance is seven hours ; but we made
a detour to the right of the direct road, for the sake
of viewing some monuments of antiquity, which
were reported to us at Seid-el-Gluizi. We first
ascend for some distance, and pass over an elevated
stony heath, in a direction to the westward of south ;
we then enter a forest of pine-trees, from many of
which they had been extracting the turpentine, by
making an incision at the foot of the tree, and then
lighting a lire under it. By these means the resin
descends rapidly, and is soon collected in large
quantities, but the tree is killed ; and it sometimes
happens that the fire communicating destroys large
tracts of the forest. We saw several remains of
these conflagrations as we passed along. After tra-

22

Ch. 1.

versing the forest for an hour, we came in sight of
a beautiful valley, situated in the midst of it. Turn-
ing to the left, after we had descended into the val-
ley, we found it to be a small plain, about a mile long
and a quarter of a mile broad, embosomed in the
forest^ and singularly variegated with rocks, which
rise perpendicularly out of the soil, and assume the
shape of ruined towers and castles. Some of these
are upwards of 150 feet in height, and one or two,
entirely detached from the rest, have been excavated
into ancient catacombs, with doors and windows,
and galleries, in such a manner that it required a
near inspection to convince us that what we saw were
natural rocks, and not towers and buildings. AVe
found the chambers within to have been sepulchres,
containing excavations for coffins, and niches for
cinerary vases. Following the course of the valley
to the S.E., we came in sight of some sepulchral
chambers, excavated with more art, and having a
portico with two columns before the door, above
which a range of dentils forms a cornice. But the
most remarkable of these excavations, is that which
will best be understood by the annexed sketch of it,
taken by General Koehler, while Mr. Carlyle and
myself were employed in copying two inscriptions
engraved upon the face of the rock. In the upper
inscription a few letters arc deficient at the begin-
ning and end ; the lower appeared to us to be com-
plete. The letters of the first are larger and wider

Ch. 1.

23

asunder than those of the second. Both are written
from left to right, but in the lower inscription the
letters are written doivnwardsy along the edge of the
monument, so that to place the eyes upon the same
line with the inscription, the head must be held side-
ways. The rock which has been shaped into this
singular monument rises to a height of upwards of
one hundred feet above the plain ; and at the back,
and on one of the sides, remains in its natural state.
The ornamented part is about sixty feet square,
surmounted by a kind of pediment, above which
are two volutes. The figures cut upon the rock are
no where more than an inch deep below the sur-
face, except towards the bottom, where the exca-
vation is much deeper, and resembles an altar. It
is not impossible, however, that it may conceal the
entrance into the sepulchral chamber, where lie the
remains of the person in whose honour this magni-
ficent monument w^as formed ; for in some other
parts of Asia Minor, especially at Telmissus, we
have examples of the wonderful ingenuity with
which the ancients sometimes defended the entrance
into their tombs. There can be little doubt that
the monument was sepulchral ; the crypts and ca-
tacombs in the excavated rocks around it prove that
the valley was set apart for such purposes, to which
its singularly retired position and romantic scenery,
amidst these extensive forests, rendered it peculiarly
well adapted.

24

Ch. 1.

The valley bears the name of Doganlu^ from a
neighbouring village which we did not see, but
where, according to the information we received,
are remains of an ancient fortification, called by
the Turks Pismesh Kdlesi. I am inclined to
think they mark the site of Nacoleia *, named by
Strabo among the cities of Phrygia Epictetus,
together with Cotyaeium, Dorylaeum, and Mi-
daeium ; the first of which places (now Kutdya)
is within twenty geographical miles, ia direct di-
stance, to the north-westward of Doganlu ; the
second, Dorylaeum (Eski-shehr), is at nearly that
distance to the north of Doganlu ; and Midaium
was to the north-eastward, distant about 35 G. M.
direct. But a still closer argument, in favour of
this situation of Nacoleia, is derived from a com-
parison of the several routes leading from Dory-
keum, as stated in the ancient itineraries, with their
directions on the map. These roads are five in
number ; and though little reliance can be placed
upon the distances between the several places, the
order of names furnishes evidence that cannot be
very erroneous, and the positions of the places at

* Nacoleia was the chief fortress of this countiy in the reign
of Arcadius , whose officer. Count Tribigild, with a garrison of
Ostrogoths, rebelled against the Emperor, and reduced all the
neighbouring country. Philostorg. 1. 1 1 . c. vS. For an account of
the rebellion of Gaiiias and Tribigild, which illustrates several
))oints of Asiatic geography, sec Gibbon, c, 32, and the authors
to whom he reforms.

Ch. 1.

25

the extremity of each route are known with tolera-
ble accuracy. The first of the roads, as they are
arranged in the subjoined note *, led by Midaium
to Pessinus ; the second by Archelaiuni to Germa,
now Yenna ; the third conducted south-eastward
to Synnada, Philomelium, and Laodiceia Combusta
(now Yorgan Ladik) ; the fourth by Nacoleia and
Eumenia to Apamcia Cibotus ; and the fifth south-
westward, by Cotyaium to Philadelphia (Allah-
Shehr). Now, although the site neither of Apa-

«

* 1. Dorileo 28 Mideo 28 Tricomia 21 Pessinimte. Total
77 M. P. to Pessinus : the distance on the map is
about 55 G. M. d.

II. Iter a Dorilao: — Arcelaio M. P. 30^ Germa M. P. 20.
Total 50 M.P: the distance on the map is 57 G.
M. d.

III. Dorileo Docymeo 32 Synnada 32 Julke 35 Philomclo

28 Laudicia Calacecaumeno. Total ]27 M. P. p/us
the distance from Dorylaeiim to Docimia. The di-
stance upon the map is about J30 G. M. d.

IV. Dorileo 20 Necolea 40 Conni 32 Kucarpia 30 Eume-

nia Pella 12 ad vicum 14 Apumca Ciboton. Total
148 M. P. The distance upon the map is about 100
G. M. d.

V. Dorileo, 30 (>ocleo (lege C'otya'o) 35 Agmonia 25
Aludda 30 Glanudda 35 Philadellia. Total 155 M.P.
The distance upon the map is about 120 G.M. d. The
second of these roads is from the Antoniue itinerary,
the other four from the Peutinger 'ruble.

The proportion between the real distances, and the amount
of the several computed di.stances in Roman miles, shows that
the distance, in the itineraries, from one place to anotlicr, can-
not be relied on to within ten or twelve miles. In many in-
stances, the errors of the Table arc still greater.

26

Ch. 1.

meia Cibotus, Synnada, nor Pessinus, has yet been
explored, their situations are very nearly certain.
Apameia was at the source of the Maeander, and
bore a little westward of south from Eski-shehr.
Nacoleia, therefore, bore in about that direction

from Dorylseurn ; it lay between the roads conduct-
ing from that city to Synnada and Laodiceia, and
to Cotyaium and Philadelphia ; and it was the first
town which occurred on the road to Apameia: all
which circumstances accurately accord with the po-

sition of Doganlii in respect of Eski-shehr.

On first beholding the great sculptured rock of

the valley of Doganlii, and on remarking the little

resemblance which it bears to the works of the

Greeks, our idea was, that it might have been
formed by the ancient Persians, when in possession
of this country; and that the lower part, resembling
an altar, might have had some reference to their
worship of fire ; but, upon further reflection, there
appeared several objections to such a supposition.
In the first place, none of the great monuments of
the Persians are likely to be found at so great a
distance from Susa and Persepolis, in a part of the
country of which they had only a temporary pos-
session, and which could never have been considered

by them otherwise than as a conquered foreign
country, of doubtful tenure. Secondly, the style of
ornament does not exactly resemble any known
monument of the ancient Pcr!;ian5 ; and, thirdly,

Ch. 1.

27

the characters of the Inscriptions^ which have every
appearance of being coeval with the rest of the
work, bear so close a resemblance to the letters of
the Greek alphabet, in their earliest form, that the
most reasonable conjecture seems to be that this
monument is the work of the ancient Phrygians,
who, like the lonians Lydians, and other nations
of Asia Minor, who were in a state of independence
before the Persian conquest, made use of an alphabet
differing slightly from the Greek, and derived from
the same oriental original. While the form of the
characters, as well as the vertical ranges of points
for noting the separation of the words, bear a
marked resemblance to the archaic Greek: on the
other hand, some of the words agree with the
semi-barbarous style of the sculptured ornaments
of this monument, in indicating that the inscrip-
tions are not In pure Greek. Loth in the resem-
blance and dissimilitude, therefore, they accord
with what we should expect of the dialect of the
Phrygians, whose connexion with Greece Is evi-
dent from many parts of their early history ; at the
same time, that the distinction between the two
nations is strongly marked by Herodotus, who
gives to the Phrygians the appellation of barba-
rians.

It is further remarkable that the sculpture of the

♦ Tlvrodot. 1. 1. c. 11-., 1.

28

Ch. 1.

monument of Doganlu, though unlike any thing of
Greek workmanship, is very much in the same
style as the elaborate ornaments (equally remote
from Grecian taste) which covered the half columns
formerly standing on either side of the door of the
Treasury of Atreus at Mycenfe*, a building said to
have been erected by the Cyclopes, who were sup-
posed to have been artisans from Asia-|-.

Upon comparing the alphabet of the monument
of Doganlii with the archaic Greek, and with the
Etruscan, it is observable that there is no greater
difference between the three than mightbe expected
in distant and long-separated branches of the same
family. It may be remarked, however, that the
Greek alphabet, and that of Doganlii, resemble each
other much more than they resemble the Etruscan,
as well in the form of the letters, as in the impor-
tant circumstance of their being written from left
to right, instead of from right to left, as the Etrus-
can always continued to be

* Some fragments of these arc to be seen in the British
Museum.

t Strabo, p. ,373.

i Sec Lanzi, Saggio di Lingua Etrusca. There is nothing,
however, very surprising in this peculiarity of the Etruscan.
The Greek alphabet, like its oriental prototype, was at first
written from right to left, then indifiercntly either way, then
alternately, in the manner called boustrophedon j and lastly,
from left to right. It was imported into Etruria at a period
when it was written in the earliest manner j and the Etruscans,
hy a practice often observable in coltmies, seem to have ad-

Ch. I.

29

It may seem a vain attempt to endeavour to ex-
plain inscriptions, written in a language or dialect

hered to the custom after it had been altered in the mother
country.

It can no longer be doubted, from a comparison of the military
architecture and other arts of the Etruscans with tliose of the
Greeks, as well as from that of their language and writing, so
ably investigated by Lanzi, that the two people had a common
origin, or a common source of civilization. This source, in the
opinion of the Greeks, was a people called Pelasgi, the last
seat of whose prosperity was the country adjacent to the Thes-
salian Olympus. Driven away from thence about the fifteenth
century before the Christian aera, they migrated to Asia, Crete,
Epirus, and a part of them to Etruria; where they are said to have
been joined, about two centuries afterwards, by a colony from
Lydia. We find an evidence of the skill of the Pelasgi in mili-
tary an^hitecturc, in the circumstance of the Athenians having
employed some of those who w€‘re settled in Attica to fortify the
Acropolis : and it is probable that the peculiar style of building
exhibited in the walls of many ancient cities, as well in (Jreece
as in Etruria and lUiiy, and which is the same in all, had its
origin in the Pelasgic school. Ilellanicus of Lesbus, and Diony-
sius of Halicarnassus, denied that the Etruscans hud ever been
colonized from Lydia : but in this they were ojiposed to the
general opinion of antiquity, as shown by Herodotus, Strabo,
Paterculus, Pliny, Seneca, Plutarch, Appian, Justin, and Ta-
citus. At the time of the War of Troy, the Pelasgi possessed
the fertile plains on the south-eastern side of Mount Ida, and
had given the name of the Thessalian Larissa to their chief
town. Horn. 11. /3. 840. Several other communities in the sur-
rounding parts of Asia Minor w^ere of Pelasgic origin, and Ly-
dia is said to have received one of their colonies. (Plutarch in
Romulo, Raoul Rochette Hist, des Colonies Grecques.) Etru-
ria, therefore, in its manners, arts, language, and writing, could
not have been very much altered by the addition of a Lydian
colony, if any such event ever took place. Among the nume-

30

Ch. 1.

of which we have no other remains; yet as the
characters are themselves a proof that there was
a great resemblance between this dialect and the
Greek, it is not impossible that some light may be
thrown upon ancient history by the monument of
Doganlu, if other inscriptions in the same dialect
should hereafter be discovered. Upon this subject
one or two remarks occur which may not be unim-
portant.

It has already been observed, that the lower
inscription beginning BABA is complete, and
it may be assumed that the upper, though in-
complete at either end, has lost but a few letters.
This seems evident, as well from its occupying
the whole length of a sort of outer pediment, as
from its concluding word, which wants only one
letter of being the same as the concluding word
of the lower inscription. This concluding word

rous instances of resemblance between the Etruscan and
Greek adduced by Lanzi, 1 shall mention one only, as it is il-
lustrated by a discovery of my own. V Aplu, we find, by

some of the monuments of Etruria, to have been the Etruscan
name for Apollo ; and Plato, in a passage of the ('ratylus re-
ferred to by Lanzi, observes that 'AvXouv or 'AntXhg was the
name of the Thessalian Apollo, lictwcen Larissa and Mount
01ym])us, in the part of Biessaly which, as late as the time of
the Roman empire, was called Pelasgiotis, I found two marbles
inscribed with dedications to this deity, AIIAOTNI. See Lanzi
Suggiodi Lingua Etrusca, tomo2. p. 200, 2!?4j Walpole’s Col-
lection of Travels in Turkey, vol, 2. p. 506 j Classical Journal*
No. 52.

Ch. 1.

31

is very remarkable ; written in Greek it is E AAE,
or EAAE2. Now eSag from W*;, to divide or
cut with a sharp instrument, is precisely such a
Greek word as one might have expected to find in
a very ancient Greek inscription upon a monu-
ment, all the apparent merit of which is the cut-
ting of squares, lozenges, and other regular figures,
upon the smoothed surface of a rock. In examin-
ing the other words, we find further resemblances
of the Greek. The 2d, 3d, and 4 th words of the
lower inscription, and the first word of the upper
inscription (if it be a single word), all seem to end
in sigma, and three of them in o?, thus rendering it
not improbable that the words 1, 2, 3, 4, of the lower
inscription, contained the name and title of the per-
son who engraved that inscription ; that the fifth word
may have indicated some such distinction,
as the place from whence he came ; and that the long
word. No. 1 . of the upper inscription, was the name of
the person who placed that inscription. But the most
remarkable words of all are the second and fourth of
the upper inscription, which, written in Greek, are
MIAAI FANAKTEI, ‘‘to King Midas;” and
which furnish an immediate presumption that the
monument was erected in honour of one of the
Kings of Phrygia of the Midaian family. The si-
tuation of the place is no less favourable to this sup-
position than the construction of the monument,
the tenor of the inscription, and the form of the

32

Ch. 1.

letters ; for it cannot be doubted that the valley in
which the monument stands is precisely in the heart
of the country which formed the ancient kingdom
of Phrygia. Strabo remarks, that the royal families
of Gordius and Midas possessed the countries adja-
cent to the river Sangarius, on the banks of which
stood the cities of Midaeium and Gordium We
learn from Pausanias ^ that Ancyra was founded
by Midas, and that in his time there was a fountain
in that city, called the fountain of Midas; and
both these authors concur in the testimony;}: that
a tribe of Gauls, in seizing the country adjacent to
Ancyra and Pessiniis, occupied a part of the ancient
dominions of the Gordian dynasty. The fertile
valleys of the Sangarius, and its branches, seem,
therefore, to have formed the central part of the
dominions of the kings of Phrygia. According to
this supposition, the date of the monument of Do-
ganlii is between the years 740 and 5/0 before the
Christian aera ; for that such was nearly the period
of the Gordian dynasty appears from Herodotus
who informs us that Midas, son of Gordius, was
the first of the Barbarians who sent offerings to
Delphi, and that his offerings were earlier than

* Strabo, p. 568. 576. t Attic, c. 4.

J Strabo, p. 571. Paus.

§ Herod. 1. 1. c. 14. Eusebius places the beginning of the
reign of the first Midas in the fourth year of the tenth Olympiad,
or 737 B.c,

Ch. 1.

33

those of G yges, king of Lydia, who began his reign
B.c. 715. Phrygia lost its independence, when all
the country to the west of the Halys was subdued
by Croesus, king of Lydia, in or about the year
572 B.c. A few years afterwards Atys, son of
Croesus, was killed accidentally by Adrastus, who
was of the royal family of Phrygia, and son of the
Gordius who hud been rendered tributarv to Croe-
.sus. As this Gordius was son of a Midas*, and
the first Midas was son of a Gordius, it is probable
that several of the intermediate inonarchs of the
dynasty, diwing the two centuries of their inde-
pendence, bore the same names.

The distinguishing appellation of the particular
Midas to whom the monument w’as dedicated,
seems to be contained in the word of the upper
inscription, w'hich occurs between M/ia and uvu-
but as vve possess no details of the history
of independent Phrygia, it is impossible to deter-
mine to what period in the tw^o centuries the mo-
nument of Doganld is to be ascribed. In regard
to the w^ord BABA, which begins the low’er in-

* Herod. 1. 1 . c. 35.

1 The first letter of this word appears to be the old gamma,

^ , as written on several ancient monuments. "Hie sixth letter
was perhaps a T, of which a part of the upper line has been
effaced. Upon this supposition, the name in Greek was
UApATTAHS, which bears a resemblance to the royal Lydian
names, Sadyattcs, Alyattes.

D

34

Ch. 1.

scription, it was probably the highest title of ho-
nour at that period. Papas, or Papias, derived from
IIAIIA, nearly the same word as BABA, and
meaningy«M^r, was a common epithet of Jupiter
in this part of Asia Minor at a subsequent period.
The dedication to Jupiter Papias, mentioned in a
preceding page, was copied from a marble found at
no great distance from Doganlu : and vve are in-
formed by an ancient author, that Papas was the
name of the Bithynian Jupiter In another part
of the country we find the title applied, by a natu-
ral descent, to the magistrate of a city-]-'; and it
w’as a common name among the Etruscans, the
kinsmen of the Phrygians

Close by tliis magnificent relic of Phrygian art
is a very large sepulchral chamber with a portico,
of two columns, excavated out of the same reddish
sandstone of which the great monument and other
rocks are formed. The columns have a plain plinth
at the top, and are surmounted by a row of dentils
along the architrave. They are of a tapering form,
which, together with the general proportions of the
work, give it an appearance of the Doric order,

* Arrian, ap. Eiistath in 11. b. p. 429.

t An inscription found by Pococke, ai Nysa in the valley of
the Mueander, qualifies one Artemidorus as Uairdf ruiv rr^s
Xsuji (rrparr^yujy, and as UaTfois ipyoiv. Pococke Inscr. Ant.
p. 13.

X Lunzi, tom. 2. p. 141.

Ch. 1.

35

althougli, ill fact, it contains none of the distinctive
attributes of that order. It is an exact resemblance
of the ordinary cottages of the peasants, which
are square frames of wood-work, having a portico
supported by two posts made broader at either end.
The sepulchral chambers differ only in lisiving their
parts more accurately finished ; the dentils corre-
spond to tlic ends of the beams, supporting the flat
roof of the cottage.

I cannot quit the subject of this interesting valley
without expressing a wash that future travellers,
who may cross Asia Minor by the routes of Eski-
sliehr or Kutaya, wall employ a day or two in a
more complete examination of it than circumstances
allowed to us ; as It is far from improbable that
some inaccuracy or omission may have occurred in
our copy of the inscriptions, from the singularity
of the characters, the great height of one of the in-
scriptions above the ground, and the short time
that was allowed us for transcribing and revising
them.

After leaving the great seulptiuvd rock, we fol-
lowed the valley for a short distance, and then passed
through a wdld woody country, having met scarcely
any traces of habitations till we reached our konak,
at the little village which receives its appellation
from the Khan built there by a Pasha of the name
of Kosru; andudiere we arrived at five in the even-
ing, having, according to our calculation, made a

D 2

36

Ch. 1.

circuit of nine or ten miles more than the direct
distance from Seid-el-Ghdzi. We bad a siiarp
shower of hail as w^e galloped through the wood,
but the weather soon cleared again.

Jan. 28. — From Kosru Khan to Bulwuddn,
twelve hours. We rose at two in the morning:^
the baggage set off at five, ourselves at six. The
road lay through several small woody valleys, and
towards the latter part of our journey across a ridge
of hills, with a fine soil, containing a few cultivated
patches of ground, but for the most part overgrown
with brushwood ; at intervals we saw a few flocks of
sheep and goats, and in one place a large herd of
horned cattle. We saw many sepulchral chambers
excavated in the rocks, some of which were orna-
mented on the exterior; others were plain. In
several parts of our route, also, were appearances of
extensive quarries, from some of which was proba-
bly extracted the celebrated Phrygian marble, called
Synnadicus, or Docimitis, from the places where it
was found.

This marble was so much esteemed that it was
carried to Italy and such was the force of fashion
or prejudice, that Hadrian placed columns of it in
his new buildings at Athens^l-, where the surround-
ing mountains abound in the finest marble. At
about ten mUes from Bulwudun we came in sight

* Strabo, p. 577.

t Pans. Att. c. IS.

Ch, 1.

37

of that town with a lake beyond it: to the southward
was the high range of mountains called Sultan-
dagh, and parallel to it, on the northern side of
the plain of Biilwudun, the Emir-dagh.

From hence we descended by a long slope to
Bulwudiin, which is situated in the plain. It is a
place of considerable size, but consists chiefly of
miserable cottages. There are many remains of
antiquity lying about the streets, and around the
town, but they appeared to be chiefly of the time
of the Constantinopolitan empire. At Bulwudiin
we had to make choice of two roads to the coast ;
one leading to Satalia, the other, by Konia and
Karaman, to Kel^nderi. We prefer the latter on
account of the uncertainty of the long passage by
sea from Satalia to Cyprus at this season of the
year ; and we are informed that all the Grand Vi-
zier’s Tatars now take the Konia road.

Jan. 29. — From Bulwudiin to Ak-shehr, eleven
hours. For the first two hours the road traversed
the plain which lies between Bulwudiin and the foot
of Sultdn-dagh ; towards the latter a long cause-
way traverses a marshy tract, through the middle of
which runs a considerable stream. This river comes
from the plains and open country, which extend on
our right as far as Afiom Karahissdr, and joins the
lake which occupies the central and lowest part of
the plain lying between the parallel ranges of Sul-
tdn-dagh and Emir-dagh. Our road continues in

38

Ch. L

a S, E. direction along the foot of Sultdn-dagh ; it
is perfectly level, and, owing to the dry weather, in
excellent condition. On our left were the lake and
plains already mentioned. The ground was every
where covered with frost, and the hills on either
side of the valley with snow ; but these appearances
of winter vanished as the day advanced, and from
noon till three p. m. the sun was warmer than we
found agreeable ; our faces being exposed to It by
that most inconvenient head-dress, tlie Tatar Kal-
pak. Our Surigis (postillions) wore a singular kind
of cloak of white camels’ hair felt, half an inch thick,
and so stiff that the cloak stands without support
when set upright upon the ground. There are nei-
ther sleeves nor hood ; but only holes to pass the
hands through, and projections like wings upon
the shoulders for the purpose of turning off the
rain. It is of the manufacture of the country. At
the end of six hours we passed through Saakle or
Isaklii, a large village surrounded w'ith gardens and
orchards, in the midst of a small region w^ell wa-
tered by streams from Snltan-dagh, and better cul-
tivated than any place we have seen since we left
the vicinity of Isnik and Lefke. Yet the Aga of
Isaklii is said to be in a state of rebellion ; and this
is not the fir§t instance we have seen of places in
such a state being more flourishing than others ;
whence we cannot but suspect that there is a con-
nexion in this empire between the prosperity of a

Ch. 1. 39

district and the ability of its chieftain to resist the
orders of the Porte. This is nothing more than
the natural consequence of their well-known policy
of making frequent changes of provincial governors,
who, purchasing their governments at a high price,
are obliged to practise every kind of extortion to
reimburse themselves, and secure some profit at the
expiration of their command. It seems that the
Aga of Isakhi, having a greater share of prudence
and talents than usually falls to the lot of a Turk
in office, has so strengthened himself that the Porte
does not think his reduction w^orth the exertion
that would be required to effect it, and is, there-
fore, contented with the moderate revenue which
we are told he regularly remits to Constantinople.
In the mean time he has become so personally in-
terested in the prosperity of the place, that he finds
it more to his advantage to govern it well than to
enrich himself rapidly by the oppressive system of
the other provincial governors. The territory of
Isaklu contains several dependent villages to which
fertility is ensured by the streams descending from
Sultan-dagh. We here observe a greater quantity
and variety of fruit-trees than in any place in Asia
?vIinor we have yet seen. Their species are the
same as those which grow in the middle latitudes
of Europe, as apples, pears, walnuts, quinces,
l>eaehes, graj)cs ; no figs, olives, or mulberries *.

■' Strnho, howt’vcr, informs us that anciently these plains

40

Ch. 1.

llie climate, therefore, though now so mild, and
exposed undoubtedly to excessive heat in summer,
is not warmer upon the whole than the interior of
Greece and Italy.

We follow the level grounds at the foot of Sultan-
clagh until we come in sight of Ak-shehr (white
city), a large town, situated, like Isaklu, on the foot
of the mountains, and furnished with the same na-
tural advantages of a fertile soil, and a plentiful
supply of water. It is surrounded with many plea-
sant gardens, but in other respects exhibits the
usual Turkish characteristics of extensive burying-
grounds, narrow dirty streets, and ruined mosques
and houses. At a small distance from the western
entrance of the town we pass the sepulchre of Nu-
reddin Hoja, u Turkish saint, whose tomb is the
object of a Mussulman pilgrimage. It is a stone
monument of the usual form, surrounded by an
open colonnade supporting a roof; the columns
have been taken from some ancient Greek building.
The burying-ground is full of remains of Greek ar-
chitecture converted into Turkish tomb-stones, and
furnishes ample proof of Ak-shehr having been
the position of a Greek city of considerable impor-
tance. The only apartment our Konakji could
procure for us at Ak-shehr w^as a ruinous chamber
in the Menzil-han^ (post-house) ; and the Aga

tore olives : he describes the plain of Synnada as an IXaiOfvrov

Ch. 1.

41

sending insolent messages in return to our remon-
strances, we resolve, though at the end of a long
day’s journey, upon setting out immediately for the
next stage. While the horses are preparing, we
eat our kebab in the burying-groiind, and take
shelter from the cold of the evening in the tent
of some camel-drivers, who were enjoying their
pipes and coffee over a fire. On our arrival, we had
observed the people fortifying their town, by erect-
ing one of the simplest gates that was ever con-
structed for defence. It consisted of four uprights
of fir, supporting a platform covered with reeds,
in front of whicli was a breastwork of inud-bricks
with a row of loop-holes. These gates and a
low mud-wall are the usual fortifications of the
smaller Asiatic towns. In one place we saw the
gates standing alone without any wall to connect
them.

The lake of Ak-shehr is not close to the town as
D’Anville has marked it on his map ; but at a di-
stance of six or eight miles : it communicates by a
stream with that of Hulw^udun, and after a season
of rain, when these lakes are very much increased
in size, they form a continued piece of water, thirty
or forty miles in length. It is probable that D’An-
ville was equally mistaken in placing Antioch of
Pisidia at Ak-shehr : for if Sultan-dagh is the Phry-
gia Paroreia of Strabo, as tliere is reason to believe,
Antioch should, according to the same authority,

42 Ch. I.

be on tlie south side of that ridge ; whereas Ak-
shchr is on tlie north.

At six in the evening we set out from Ak shehr,
and at one in the morning of January 30 arrived
at Arkut-khan. Our pace was much slower than
by day. The road lay over the same open level
country as before, and towards the latter part of
the route, over some undulations of ground, which
separate the waters running into the lake of Ak-
shehr from those which flow into the lake of Ilgun.
The U'eather w’as frosty and clear, but very dark
after eleven o’clock, when the moon set. Several
of our party then became so oppressed by sleep as
to find It duTicult to save themselves from falling
from the horses. After two or three hours’ repose
at Arkut-khan, we pursued our route for tliree hours
to Ilgiin, a large but WTetehed village, containing
some scattered fragments of antiquity, where we
procured some eggs and kaiiiiak (boiled cream) for
breakfast, and then continued our route to I/adik.
From near Ak-shehr, the loftier summits of the
range of Sultan-dagh begin to recede from our
direction towards the south ; and our route has
continued through the same wade uncultivated
cliamj>aign, intersected by a few ridges, and by tor-
rents running from the Sultan-dagh to the lakes in
the plain. At two hours is a more considerable
stream, crossed by a bridge, and discharging itself
into the lake of Ilgun. Six hours beyond Ilgiin

Ch. 1.

43

we pass through the large village of Kadun-kiiii,
or Kanun-hana, said to consist of 1000 houses;
and three hours further we come to Yorgan-Ladik,
or Ladik-el-Tchaus, another large place, famous
throughout Asia Minor for its manufacture of car-
pets; and advantageously situated in a well-watered
district, among some low hills to the northward of
which lies a very extensive plain.

The road through tlie open country which we have
passed has been wide, well beaten, fit for any car-
riage, and, owing to the late dry weather, in an ex-
cellent state, Wc continue to enjoy a sky without
u cloud : there is generally a slight breeze from the
east In the day: in the afternoon the sun is hot;
and at night the sky is perfectly calm and clear,
with a sharp frost, which In the shaded places ge-
nerally continues to a late hour in the afternoon.

The plains between Arkut-Khan and Ladik are
traversed by several low stony ridges, and by streams
running towards the lake of Ilgun. The country is
bare and open ; not a tree or inclosure was to be
seen, nor any appearance of cultivation, except in
small patches around a few widely-scattered vil-
lages. The country to our right forms the district
of Dogan-hissar, a town belonging to the Sanjak
of Ak-shehr. To the left is seen the continuation
of the series of long narrow lakes which begin near
Bulwudun : they receive the torrents running from
the surrounding mountains, and are greatly cm-

44 Ch. I.

larged in winter, but in summer are entirely dried

Jan. 31. — From Ladik to Konia nine hours;
the road excellent, and weather very fine ; the sun
even scorching, and much too glaring for our ex-
posed eyes. At Ladik we saw more numerous
fragments of ancient architecture and sculpture
than at any other place upon our route. Inscribed
marbles, altars, columns, capitals, frizes, cornices,
were dispersed throughout the streets- and among
the houses and burying-grounds ; the remains of
Laodiceia anciently the most consi-

derable city in this part of the country. At less
than an hour’s distance from the town, on the way
to Konia, we met with a still greater number of re-
mains of the same kind, and copied one or two se-
pulchral inscriptions of the date of the Roman em-r
pi re. The following fragment appears to be part
of an imprecation against any person who should
violate the tomb upon which it is inscribed.

TON BXMON AAIKIJCei
H KAI TiePl TON TA'^

ON TI OP<^ANA TBKNA AIFIOI

TON XIIPON DION OIKON 6
PIIMON

Soon after we had quitted this spot, we entered
upon a ridge branching eastward from the great
mfuintains on our right, and forming the northern
houndnrv of the plain of Konia. On the descent

Cb. 1.

45

from this ridge we came in sight of the vast plain
around that city, and of the lake whicli occupies
the middle of it, and we saw the city with its
mosques and ancient wails, still at the distance of
12 or 14 miles from us. To the north-east nothing
appeared to interrupt the vast expanse but two very
lofty summits covered with snow, at a great distance.
They can be no other than the summits of Mount
Argfeiis above Kesaria, and are, consequently,
near 150 miles distant from us, in a direct line.
To the south-east the same plains extend as far as
the mountains of Karaman, which to the south-
west of the plains are connected mi\\ the moun-
tains of Khatun-serdi, on the other side of which
lies Bey-shehr and the country of the ancient Isau-
rians ; and these bending westw^ard in the neigh-
bourhood of K6nia form a continuous range with
the ridge of Sultan-dagh, of which we have been
following the direction ever since we left Bulwudun.
At the south-east extremity of the plains beyond
Konia we are much struck with the appearance of
a remarkable insulated mountain, called Karadagh
(black mountain), rising to a great height, covered
at the top with snow, and appearing like a lofty
island in the midst of the sea. It is about sixty
miles distant, and beyond it are seen some of the
summits of the Karaman range, which cannot be
less than ninety miles from us ; yet it is surprising
with what distinctness the form of the ground and

46

Ch. 1.

of the woods is seen in this clear atmosphere. As
far as I have observed, the air is much more trans-
parent in a fine winters day in this climate than it
is in summer, when, notwithstanding the breeze of
wind which blows, there is generally a haze in the
horizon, caused probably by the constant stream of
vapour which rises from the earth. The situation
of the town of Kararnan is pointed out to us exactly
in the line of our route, a little to the right of
Mount Karadagh. After descending into the plain
we move rapidly over a road made for wheel-car-
ri«ages; the first we have met with since we left the
neighbourhood of Skutari.

At Konia we are comfortably accommodated in
the house of a Christian belonging to the Greek
church, hut who is ignorant of the language, which
is not even used in the church-service : they have
the four Gospels and the Prayers printed in Turk-
ish. At the head of the Greek community is a
Metropolitan bishop, who has several dependent
churches in the adjacent towns. As it is now the
moon Ramazan, when the Turks neither take nou-
rishment nor receive visits till after sunset, we are
obliged to defer our visit to the (governor of Konia
till the evening. lie is a Pasha of three tails, but
inferior in rank to the Governor of Kiitaya, who
tias the htle of Anadol-Beglerheg, or Anadol-Va-
lesi, and who has the chief connnand of all the
Anatolian troops when they join the Imperial camp.

Ch. 1.

47

Our visit, us usual among the Turks, was first to
the Kiaya, or Deputy, and afterwards to tlie Pasha.
The entrance into the court of the Serai was strik-
ing ; portable fires of pine-wood placed in a grating
fixed upoii a pole, and stuck into the ground, were
burning in every part of the court-yard; a long
line of horses stood ready saddled ; attendants in
their gala-clothes were seen moving about in all
directions, and trains of servants, with covered
dishes in their hands, showed that the night of a
Turkish hist is a feast. '1 he building had little in
unison with these appearances of gaiety and magni-
ficence, being a low shabby wooden edifice, with
ruinous galleries and half-broken windov/ frames ;
hut it stands upon the site of the palace of the an-
cient sultans of Iconium, and contains some few
remains of massy and elegant Arabic architecture,
of an early date. The inside of the building seemed
not iimcb better than the exterior, wdth the excep-
tion of the Pasha’s audience-chainher, wdiich w^as
splendidly furnished with carpets and sofas, and
filled with a great number of attendants in costly
dresses. The Pasha, as well as Ins deputy in the
previous visit, received us with haughtiness and
formality, though with civility. The Pashsi pro-
mised to send forward to Karaman for horses to be
ready to carry us to the coast, and to give us a tra-
velling order for konaks upon the road. After
passing through the usual ceremony of coflee.

48

Ch, I.

sweetmeats, sherbet, and perfumes, which in a
Turkish visit of ceremony are well known to follovv
in the order here mentioned, we return to our
. lodging. Nothing can exceed the greediness of the
Pasha's attendants for Bakshish. Some accompany
us home with mashallahs (the torches above men-
tioned), and others with silver wands. Soon after
our return to our lodgings we are visited by a set
of the Pasha’s musicians, who seem very well to
understand that after our fatigues we shall be glad
to purchase their absence at a handsome price ;
but no sooner are they gone than another set make
their appearance ; the Kahweji, the Tutnnji, and
a long train of Tchokadars ; and these being suc-
ceeded by people of the town, who come simply to
gratify their curiosity, it is not till a late hour that
W'e are at liberty to retire to rest.

The circumferenee of the walls of Konia is be-
tween tw’o and three miles, beyond whicli are sub-
urbs not much less populous than the town itself.
The walls strong and lofty, and flanked with square
towers, which at the gates are built close together,
are of the time of the Seljukian kings, who seem
to have taken considerable pains to exhibit the
Greek inscriptions, and the remains of architecture
and sculpture belonging to the ancient Iconium,
which they made use of in building their w^alls.
We perceived a great number of Greek altars, in-
scribed stones, columns, and other fragments in-

Ch. 1.

49

sorted into the fabric, which is still in tolerable pre-
servation throughout the whole extent. None of
the Greek remains that I saw seemed to be of a
very remote period, even of the Homan Empire.
Wc observed in several places Greek crosses, and
figures of lions, of a rude sculpture ; and on all the
conspicuous parts of the walls and towers, Arabic
inscriptions, apparently of a very early date. Tlie
town, suburbs, and gardens around are plentifully
supplied with water from streams, which flow from
some hills to the westward, and which to the north-
east join a lake varying in size according to the
season of the year. We are informed that in the
winter and after the melting of the snows upon the
surrounding mountains, the lake is swollen with
immense inundations, which spread over the great
plains to the eastward for near fifty miles. At
present there is not the least appearance of any
such inundation, the usual autumnal rains having
failed, and the whole country labouring undi‘r a
stvere drought. The gardens of Kdnia abound
with the same variety of fruit-trees which we re-
marked in those of Isaklii and Ak-shehr ; and the
country around supplies grain and flax in great
abundance. In the town carpets are manufactured,
and they tan and dye blue and yellow leather.
Gotten, wool, hides, and a few of the other raw
materials which enrich the superior industry and
skill of the manufacturers of Europe, are sent to

50

Ch. 1.

Smyrna by the caravans. The low situation of
the town and the vicinity of the lake seem not to
promise much for the salubrity of Kunia ; but we
heard no complaint on this head ; and as it has in
all ages been well inhabited, these apparent disad-
vantages are probably corrected by the dryness of
the soil, and the free action of the winds over the
surrounding levels. The most remarkable build-
ing in Konia is the tomb of a saint, highly revered
throughout Turkey, called Hazret Mevlana, the
founder of the Mevlevi Dervishes. His sepulchre,
which is the object of a Mussulman pilgrimage, is
surmounted by a dome, standing upon a cylindrical
tower of a bright green colour. The city, like all
those renowned for superior sanctity, abounds with
Dervishes, who meet the passenger at every turn-
ing of the streets, and demand paras with the
greatest clamour and insolence. Some of them
pretend to be idiots, and are hence considered as
entitled to peculiar respect, or at least indulgence.
The bazars and houses have little to recommend
them to notice.

CHAPTER IL

ILLUSTRATION OF THE ANCIENT GEOGRAPHY OF .

THE CENTRAL PART OF ASIA MINOR.

Geographical Structure of the Country — Ancient Sites near the
Road from Eski-Shehr to Kdtiia^Polyholum — Synnada —
Docimia — Metropolis — Julia — Philomelium — Tyriaium —
Iconium — Ancient Sites between Iconium and Mazaca or Cw-
sareia — T yana — Castabala — Cyhistra — Cilician Ta u rus — •
Archalla — Country called. Aonjlus — Lycaonian Downs — Gar^
snhora — Coropassus — Sabatra — Lakes Coralis, Trogiiis, and
Tatta — Germa — Orcistus — Places in the ancient Itineraries on
the Road fromAncyra to thv.Pyla CilicUe, Archelais, SfC . — Roads
in the Peutinger Table act'oss thcTaurus to the southern Coast —
Juliopolis or Gordium — Pessinus — Amorium — Santabaris-^
Pwmanene — Orcaoryci — Pitnisus — Caballum — Tolistochora
— Sub-divisions of Galatia,

Before we pursue our route beyond the capital
of the Greek province Lycaonia and of tlie Turkish
kingdom Kurainan, it may be right to offer a few
remarks upon the general geography of this part
of the peninsula, and upon the situation of some
of the opulent and celebrated cities which anciently
adorned it.

From the sources of the Sangarius and Halys on
the north and east, to the great summits of Mount
Taurus on the south-west and south, there is an
extent of country nearly 2o() 'miles long and 150
hroad, in which the waters have no communication
with the sea. Its southern part consists of fertile
E 2

52

Ch. 2.

valleys or of extensive plains intersected by a few
ranges of hills, and it is bounded to the south-
ward by the great ridges of Mount Taurus, from
. whence are poured forth numerous streams, which,
after fertilizing the valleys, collect their super-
abundant waters in a chain of lakes, extending
from the neighbourhood of Synnada in Phrygia
through the whole of liycaonia to the extremity
of the Tyanitis in Cappadocia. In the rainy sea-
son these lakes overflow the lower part of the
plains, and would often form one entire inun-
dation 200 miles in length, were it not for some
ridges which traverse the plains and separate them
into several basins. JJy the structure of the hills,
and the consequent course of the waters, these ba-
sins form themselves into three principal recipients,
having no communication with one another, unless
it be in very extraordinary seasons. These are, 1.
The recipient of Karahissar and Ak-shehr. 2. That
of Ilgun and Ladik, which receives I believe the
superfluous water of the lake of Karajeli as well as
that from the slopes of the neighbouring moun-
tains. 3. The recipient of Konia, which collects
the overflowings of the lakes of Sidyshehr and Bey-
shehr. 4. The basin l 3 dng between the Cilician
Taurus to the south-east and the Cappadocian
mountains in the opposite direction, which moun-
tains are now called the Hassan Daghi, and give
rise to the western branch of the Halys. Were the

Ch. 2.

bountiful intentions of Providence seconded by a
rational government, the inundations vvould but
prepare the plains for an abundant harvest : at pre-
sent they water only an immense extent of pasture
land*, while the lakes supply the surrounding in-
habitants with fish, and with reeds for the con-
struction of their miserable cottages.

Concerning two of the ancient sites traversed by
the modern road leading from Eski Shehr to K6-
nia, there can be little doubt. The modern name
of Ladik is decisive of its being upon the site of
Laodiceia Coinbusta, and the sound of Yio7^^)^orov as
jironounced by the modern Greeks, with the accent
on the last syllable, so nearly resembles that of Eul-
u’udun, that the latter name is probably a Turkish
corruption of the former. The position of Bulwudun,
moreover, agrees perfectly with that ascribed to Po-
lybotiim in the narrative of Anna Comnena . Poly-
botum, however, is mentioned only in the history of
the Lower Empire and although from the Cth to

Of pasture there ap[)ear.s from Cicero to have been a great
a])un(lance in Asia Minor, even when the country was still fa-
mous for the exuberance of its agricultural productions. Asia
tarn opima est ct fertilis ut ct ubertate agrorum ct diversitate
fructiuini ct magnitiidinc piisticniis, i t inultitudinc earum re-
rum qu}J3 cxportantvir, facile omnibus terris antccellat. ((acero
pro lego Manil.) IJiit probably even as early as the time of
( acero, Asia had sufl'ered from the wars and military despotism
<»f the Ivomiins. t Lib. 1 1. p. Lib. lo. p. 171.

X It was abishoprick under the inetropeditan of Synnada, in
'vhe':'v province were also N uolcia and Doryhviun.

34

Ch. 2.

the 12th century it appears to liavc been with Phi-
lomelium and Iconiutn the chief city of these vast
plains^, its name is not found in the earlier periods
of history, when Synnada, Philomcliiim, and Ico-
nium seem to have been the principal places f. The
position of Polybotum, therefore, affords us no assist-
ance in tracing the other ancient places on the main
route between Dorylaeum and Laodiceia.

Of these places the most important to determine
is Synnada, which indeed is in some ^measure the
key to the ancient geography of the central parts of
AsiaMinor. It appears from theTable that Synnada
was on the road from Dorylaeum to Philomelium
and Laodiceia Combusta, — from Livy, tliat it was in
the way from the country lying eastward of Apameia
Cibotus towards the frontiers of Galatia, — and
from Cicero that it was in the way or nearly so
from Apameia to Philomelium and Iconiutn. The
crossing of these lines will fall not far from the
modern Bulwuddn, as appears from the route of
Pococke in his way from the upper valley of the
Maeander to Ancyra. It is highly probable, there-
fore, that the extensive quarries which we saw on
the road from Khosrukhan to Bulwudiin are tliose
of Docimia, a small town in the plain of Synnada,

* I’rocop. Hist. Ar. c. KS. Anna Com. ib, A bishop of Po-
lybolum sat in the second Nieenc (-oiincil, A. D. 78/ .

j Ciroro ad Alt. 1. o. c|?. 20. ad Divers. 1. 3, op. 8.

[ Cie. ib. ct ad Div 1. 15. cp. I.

Clu 2. 55

celebrated for the marble extractifd from theticedh
large jjuantities, and sent even to Rome. This
marble w'as known to the Romans by the name of
Synnadic, from the more important town of Syn-.
nada, which was only sixty stades distant from Du-
cimia *.

It is difficult to ascertain the name of the aii'
cientcity which occupied the remarkable position of
Karahiss^r, which is distinguished from some other
towns of the same name by the epithet of Afiom, in
reference to its abundant produce of opium. D’An-
ville supposed it to be the site of Apameia; but the
waters of Karahissdr, Instead of running into the
Maeander, of which the principal sources were at
Apameia, flow to the lake of Bulwuddn. Pococke
asserts that he found an inscription at Karahissdr,
which proves it to be the site of Prymnesia ; but
upon referring to his Imcripliones Antiqtue,, it ap-
pears that the inscription to which he alludes is
nothing more than the memorial of a man whose
name ends in menneas, and who with his wife
had constructed a tomb for themselves and their
only daughter. A few miles southward of Kara-
hissdr are the fountains of a branch of the Msean-

* Ivuv ou f/,eyd jroXtf' vpoKeirat avrijs iXato-

^uToy TreSioy ocrov k^Mvra, erraSiwy’ tiraKetva 8* Jcrr) Ao>n[ji.ioL xw-

xai TO XarpjUkioy row Suyya^ixou Xi'dou* ovrtv /xev yap *Pcy|Xaro*
KaXotfo-iv 01 8 * kirix^pioi Aoxt/j^iriv xa) /^oxip^aToy, &c. Strabo,
P. ;'^77.

56

Ch. 2.

der ; it is probably the Obrimas, whose sources ac-
cording to Livy were at Aporis As the Consul
Manlius entered the plain of Metropolis from Apo-
ris, and marched onward to Synnada and Beudos
vetus in his way towards Galatia, there is some rea-
son to think that Karahissdr stands on the site of
Metropolis.

If we suppose the Beudos vetus of the Latin hi-
storian to have been at Beiad, from the similarity
of name and the proximity of Beiad to the site of
Synnada (for Beudos, according to Livy, was only
five Roman miles from Synnada), we shall find that
the distance from Kurahissar to Beiad, which is
twenty g. M. direct, agrees very exactly with the
march of two days and five miles by the Consul
Manlius, according to the mean rate of armies re-
duced a little in consequence of the plunder which,
as the historian tells us, impeded the movement of

* Apamiam .... ante adpellatam Celainas, dein Ciboton.
Sila est in radice montis S'gni®, circiunfusa Marsya, Obrima
Orga fluminibus, in Mseandrum cadentibus. Plin. Hist. Nat.
1. 5. c. 29.

Inde in agrum Sagalassenum Progressus inde ad

Obrimae fontes ad vicum, quern Aporidis Conien vocant, posuit

castra profectus eo die in Metropolitanum campum,

postero die Dinias Phrygiae processit. Inde Synnada venit,
metii omnibus circa oppidis desertis, quorum jam praeda grave
agnien vix quiiu|ue millium die toto itinere perfecto, ad Beudos
quod vetus appellant pervenit. Ad Atiabura inde, \c. Liv. Hist.
I. 38. c. 15.

Ch. 2.

57

the Romans. It will be found, inoreovev, that the
situation of Metropolis at Karahissar, accords ex-
tremely well with the description given by Artemi-
dorus of the road through Asia from Ephesus to
Mazaca or Cassnreia in Cappadocia, which, after
ascending the valley of the Meander to its sources
at Apameia, proceeded by Metropolis and through
Phrygia Paroreius to the termination of that di-
strict at Tyriaium ; and thence through Lycaonia to
Garsabora and Mazaca*: for although the distances
on that road in our copies of Strabo from Aj»ameia
as far as Laodiceia Comhustii will not hear exami-
nation, — and although Karahissar does not fall in
the direct line from Ephesus to Mazaca, — neither of
these objections can be considered of much weight :
the inaccuracy of numbers in -the ancient MSS. is

’EtTei KOivTj ri$ Ttrpnrrsn oLitxjt tv) rdg dvaroXds
oO'AiropQvrr/ *ii(pt(rou xai TX’jrr,v ’Ktt; y-cv ra Kxp'jvpa.

Kaplxf optovTrpof tt'v *t>p’jytuy Cix xa* 'rplAAEW/,

Kuo-jjf, "AvTrj^slas, 710 (rrx^lcuy, ’EvrEyOix cj tj ^i>pvylcc Oioc
AxohKEtx$ xai *ATrarjLsix$ xa; MrfrpoiroXfujg xa* eir'i

fj^lv C'jy 7rjv dpxYjV rrj$ l^aryujpaiov r&yj (rraoioi vrfti ‘i2()
EX rdjv Kxpovpujv biti to icpos ty, A’JK7,ovixTttpxs r/jS Uap'j.'psi-
O'j roTupixiov 6td •Iu^gij.YjXIc’j [JUKpcy ttaeIois rwV .000. KiT yj
AyxaoWa /^eXP^ KopoTtxKroO otdi AaoSineixs ty^s Karaxtxayy-fiVij;
S40* fcx 6h KofOTraycro’j rijf AvkxovIxs slf TapTdGvpa, roX/%viov

KarraJox/a^, ki:) rivv opxv x’Jr^f l6p’ju.evov, 120* 6* tl$

Ma?axa, tyjV //.YjTpo'hOP^r/ tujv K aTTTTa^oxwy 6id ^oxvSov xa*
'^x^xKOpujy GSO* bvrrj^cy o' tir) to*/ F.Vfpxrrp/ {^-^XP^ oiMTujy^
yyjplyj Tr^i: XoyijvTf 6\d o’o/.iyyY^f 1 I 10. Aiti'inidorus

Sti:ib, p. fili.S,

58

Ch. 2.

too common an occurrence to overthrow other tes-
timony; and the divergence of tlie ancient road to
the northward at Karahissar, was evidently occa-
sioned by the projection of that part of Mount
Taurus which is now called the Sultaii-dagh, and
which causes so many of the modern routes to pass
through Karahissar.

Though the proportionate distances do not ex-
actly agree with the numbers in the Table, it may
be inferred from the remains of antiquity at Ak-
shehr and Ilgiln, that these were the Julias and
Philoinelium named in that itinerary. Strabo de-
scribes Philoineliurn as being in the midst of a
plain on the north side of the hills of Paroreia ;
his description* of which district agrees exactly
with the Sultan-dagh and the plain on its northern
side. Its position no less accords with the testi-
mony of Artemidorus cited in the preceding page,
according to whom the road from Apameia to Ma-
zaca led through the Paroreia. And the territory
of Philoinelium appears from the narrative of Anna
Comnena f to have been at no great distance from

'II fJity ovv rjapcv^sia opetvrjy nyn Trfi dyaT'o^^^

'‘■KT'sivofLL-yrjy M Su(riy rauTy S* tKccrtpcjuSsy uTroTriTfreoxs iteSioy
luiyoL xolI 'ifoXeis irXija’iOv auV^f, iipos dcxrciy /xsv ^«Xo/xr]XiOV, ex
^xrtpov [Mspovs *Avrio;^eja, Tj irpos Hicri^ia xaXoujutgyij, fAtv ev
•tt’eSiiv x£i(jLeyy} itoicray cTri X6(pov, byjiVO'OL ditoixloLV *PwiJt.aiuJV»
Strabo, p. 577. It is evident from tliis passage bow greatly
the discovery of Antiucli of Pisidia would as^ist the comparative
gc.ogi;iphy of all the adjacent country. I Lib. 15. p. 17^^

Ch. 2.

59

that of Icoiiiuin ; for as soon as the Emperor Alexius
had taken Philomelium from the Turks^ his troops
spread themselves over the country round Iconiuni.
The lake of the Forty Martyrs mentioned in this
narrative corresponds also with that of Ilgdn, so
that it will probably be found that Ilgiin stands
upon the site of Philomelium.

The Julias of the Table seems to be a false
writing for Julia, a name which became com-
mon in every part of the Roman world under the
Caesars ; and it is probably the same place as the
Juliopolis placed by Ptolemy * in the part of the
country where stood Synnada, and Philomelium.
Hut there can be little doubt that so fine a situation
as that of Ak-shehr was occupied, before the time
of the Cccsars, by some imj)ortant place, which
on its being repaired or re-established may have as-
sumed the new name of Julia or Juliopolis.

Of the cities mentioned by Xenophon on the
route of Cyrus through Phrygia into Lycaonia,
Tyriaium and Iconium are the only two which
occur in later authors. Tyriaium, which is named
by Hierocles as well as by Strabo (from Artemido-
rus), is shown by the latter to have been between
Philomelium and Iconium. It must consecjuently
have been at no great distance from Laodiceia,
although this situation is quite incompatible with

^ lib. 5. c

CO Ch. 2.

the distance which Xenophon has stated between
Tyriaiuin and Iconium

* The following was the route of Cyrus, according to Xeno-
phon : —

Stathmi. TaraJaugs.

From Cclaenac, after ward.s Apamcki Cibotus, j
to Pella), ----- 1

^ 2 or 10

C k*ramoriim Agora, at the end of Mysia, -

2 — 12

Caystri Campus (a city), - . .

3 -

- 30

Thymbrium, where was the fountain of Midas,

2 — 10

Tyriaiuin, - - _ - _

2 — 10

Iconium, - - - - - -

3 — 20

Through Lycaonia, - - - -

— *T

1

o

Through (kippadociji to Dana (Tyana),

4 — 25

Total

23

92

In Major Uenneir.s work on the Retreat of the Ten Thoiisiind,
the reader will see the extreme difficulty of fixing the places on
this route. Indeed there seems no mode of reconciling Xeno-
phon with other geographical authorities than by supposing
great errors in his numbers ; for it is difficult to believe that
hirt Kocucrrpou iteSiov is not the same as that which Strabo
(]). 029.) describes as watered by the (kiystrus and situated on
the south side of Mount Tniolus. In like manner there is the
greatest reason to think that niymbrium and the fountain of
Midas were on the branch of the Sangarius called Thymbres
in the country which formed the kingdom of Midas, and not in
the ])lains between Ak-shchr and Ilgiin, where we must place
Tliymbrium, if we follow the evidence of Xenophon’s numbers.
Upon the whole, I am inclined to think that this itinerary of
Xenophon is so incorrect that very little reliance can be placed
on its authority. ^Vc have a strong proof of its inaccuracy in the
positive assertion of Xenophon, that after he had crossed Mount
Taunis, he inarched twenty-five parasangs (or about seventy-
five miles) in four days through the plain of Tarsus to the city,
though 'rarsuR is only ten miles from !hc foot of that inouutain.
Xenophon piobaldy meant four day.- ficnn the lialting-place of

Cli. 2. (!1

In following the innrch of Cyrus onwards from
Iconinin towards the Cilicite pylae of Mount Tau-
rus, we find the distances of Xenophon rather more
reconcilcable with the reality. It is agreed that
Dana, which he places at nine marches or fifty-five
])arasangs from Iconium, was the same place as
Tyana, otherwise called Eusebeia ad Tauruin, and
which under Archelaus and the Romans was the
chief town of one of the pra;fcctures of Cappadocia *.
It was the only place in that province, cxecptMazaea,
wliicb Strabo thought deserving to be called a city;
and under the Byzantine empire it was the ca]>ital
of the second Cappadocia, and the see of a me-
tropolitan bishop until the Turkish conquest.

There can be little doubt that the site, of Tyana
is now occupied by Kilisa Ilissar, or the Castle of
Kilisa near Bor j'. This place is acknowledged by

('yiTis, afterwards called the plain of (’vnis, on the inirlh siih*
ofTaiiru.s, but his words exjiress the fonner im‘iinin]L( without
tlie smallest ambiguity. Aj,min, he ])luct s ten purasangs between
Tursus and the river Sarus, and only live between tlie Sams
and the Pyramus, although the real distances are nearly equal.

* Strabo, j). ,031, 037, et seq.

t In a rude delineation of the country bctw’ccn Kesaria and
Ak-.shehr by a bishop of Iconium, published at Vienna in
I5or is written iropog, which suggests tlic origin of the word llor
— namely, that it is a Turkish corruption ofthe(ircck Wfo;, and
that Poms was a .suburb of Tyana, so called as being situated at
the TTopog, or passage of the river, which now runs through Nigdc
and llor into a lake near Erkle. Kilisa also is undoubted-
ly a Greek name (KlXio'cra, the feminine of KiXiJ), derived
from tliat of the neighbouring Ctq^padov ian |jr:c feet ure. 'I’lie

62

Ch. 2.

the Greek clergy as the site of their episcopal see
of Tyana ; it is situated, as Strabo describes Tyana
to have been, in a fertile plain not far from the en*
trance of the Pylac Ciliciae, or the easiest and most
frequented pass leading over Mount Taurus into
Cilicia Pedias and Syria, — and midway in the road
to that pass from Mazaca

At Kilisa Hissdr are found very considerable
ruins of an ancient city, among which are those of
an aqueduct upon arches, designed to convey water
to the town from the hills to the southward, which
are connected with the last slopes of Mount Taurus.
Aqueducts of this description are indubitable signs
of an ancient place which flourished under tlie Ho-
mans, and such we know to have been the condition
of Tyana.

Strabo remarks that Castabala and Cybistrawere
not far from Tyana ; that they were nearer than that
city to the heights of Taurus ; that they belonged
to the Cilician praefecture of Cappadocia, and that
Cybistra was situated at a distance of three hundred
stades from Mazaca i'. We learn also from the
Table, that Cybistra was on the road from Tyana

substitution of locfil names for provincial, and of j^rovincial
for local, was a kind of change common among the lower
Greeks.

'* Of course this distance must not be measured horizontally^
the road from Mazaca to Tyana being plain, and that from
Tyana to the Pylas very inountuinous.

+ Strabo, ibid.

Ch. *2.

63

to Mazaca, sixty-four Roman miles from the former.
These data seem sufficient to fix the site of Cybistra
at Karahissar *, where are considerable remains of au
ancient city ; and they render it probable that the
position of Castabala is now occupied by Nigde,
where we find similar evidences of an ancient site.

The situation of Cybistra at Karahissar illus-
trates the interesting account which Cicero has left
us of his military operations, in defending Cilicia
and Cappadocia against a threatened attack of the
Parthians f , when he fixed his camp at Cybistra, be-
cause it was on the frontier of the two provinces,
but nearer to the great plains of Cappadocia lying
to the eastward of Mount Taurus. 'J’hese plains
(he remarks) afford an easy access to Cappadocia
from Syria, while nothing can be stronger than
Cilicia on the side of Syria. In the end, however,
the Parthians having advanced towards Antioch,
Cicero was obliged to cross Mount Taurus from
Cybistra to Tarsus, from whence he proceeded to
clear Mount Amanus of the enemy.

In order thoroughly to understand the reason of
one of the praefectures of Cappadocia being called
Cilicia by the Romans, it is to be observed that

* D’Anvillc placed Cybistra at Bustere, which he su])pose<l
a corruption of the Greek word ; but according to Hadjy Khalfa
the name is Kostere not Bustere.

t- Sec particularly the letter to Marcus Cato. Ep. ud Divcr-
1. 1 j, t-p, 4.— and that to Atiicus, 1. cp. 20.

64

Ch. 2.

more anciently !)olh the sides of Taurus belonged
to the Elcuthero-Cilices, or independent Cilicians ;
and that the whole range from the plains of Lycao-
nia to the Antitaurus was called the Cilieian Tau-
rus Archelaus the last king of Cappadocia,
having added all the country on the northern side
of the mountain to his kingdom, together with a
large portion of Cilicia Tracheia, Tiberius, who put
him to death at Rome, included it all, except the
maritime parts, in the Roman province of Cappa-
docia ; and he added to the ten pfsefecturcs of the
late kingdom of Archelaus an eleventh, composed
chiefly of his Cilieian conquests: and hence called
the Cilieian praefecture of Caj)padocia. Its chief
town was Mazaea ; it comprehended Cybistra and
Castabala, and extended along the mountains on
the south side of the Tyanitis as far as Derbe in-
clusively i'. The inconvenience, however, of a di-
vision which included in the same district two such
distant places as Mazaea and Derbe, seems to have
been soon felt: for we find that in the time of Ha-
drian, Derbe, Laranda, and a neighbouring region

*H KatTfoi^OKioL o\$' ovv ofjidyXujrrot f/.iX.Xt(rrcc ei(riv cl

d(popi^6iJ.Byoi Kphs voVov /xty r'Z KiMxicv Tavpiv, ifpog ecu

Stnib. p. r#aa. *H Karaovla. . . . nEply.sirai 6'* oprj
'T‘£ xa'i 0 '^AfjLa.vo; ek rou irpog virev fz-spovg, ocTroffTTsca-pex Iv
rou KtXiKiou Taupov, xa) 6 *Avriravpos elg rdvxvrlx d'lesppwyuts-
Strab. p. 535. Ptolemy (I. 5.c. O'.) describes Antitaurus as
the mountain which extends from Taurus to the Euphrates.

Strabo, p. 531.

Ch. 2.

65

of Taurus containing the town of Olbasa, formed
a separate district called the Antiochiana *; and
that the Cilician praefecture was confined to the
parts about Mazaca and Cybistra.

The name of Erkle so much resembles the
Turkish corruption of Heraclia, as instanced in
two cities of that name on the coasts of the Euxine
and PropontiwS, that it has often been supposed
that tlie Erkle on the road from Konia to the Ci-
lician Pylae occupied the site of a Heraclia ; and
Hadji Khalfa even asserts that it was so. No
Greek or Latin authorities, however, hint at the
existence of a Hemclia in this situation. I have
little doubt therefore that Erkle occupies the site
of Archalla, named as one of the cities of the Cili-
cian praefecture of Cappadocia i*, ivhich, as we have
already seen, comprehended Erkle. Erkle, it may be
added, is precisely the softened sound which Turks
would give to the word pronounced in

the Greek manner with the accent on* the first syl-
lable.

To the northward of the region of lakes and
plains, through which leads the road from AficSm
Karahissar to Konia and Erkle, lies a dry and
naked region, anciently called Axylus, which ex-
tends as far as the Sangarius and Halys. Po-
cocke, who crossed a part of this dreary country.

* Ptolem. 1. a. c. 6.

t Ptolem. ibid.

66

Ch. 2.

describes it exactly in the same manner as Livy
though apparently without having adverted to that
historian.

The southern part of this open country consists
of a range of mountains running parallel to Mount
Taurus, and bordering the great valleys of Philome-
lium, Iconium and Tyana on the northern side.
The western part of this range is a summit called
Emir-dagh, which rises to a considerable elevation
from the lakes of Bulwudun and Ak-shehr, slopes
gradually into the open champaign to the eastward,
and to the north is bounded by a very broad naked
valley, which is included on the opposite side by
the hills in which originate some of the branches
of the Sangarius. To the N.W. this valley opens
into the great aayylous plains of Phrygia, extending
to Dorylxum ; and to the S.E. into those of Gala-
tia or Lycaonia. The ridges lying to the northward

* . . . . duci inde cxcrcitus per Axylon ([uam vocant terrain
eoiptus ; ab re noinen luibet : non ligni modo quidquani, sed ne
spinas quidem, aut uUuni aliud aliinentum fert ignis. Fimo
biibulo pro lignis utuntiir. Pococke observes, "They are very
much distressed in these parts for fuel, and commonly make
use of dried cow-dung.” His remark on the abundance of fine
fish m the Sangarius had not escaped the notice of the ].«atin
historian : Sangarius .... non tarn magnitudine memorabilis
quam quod pi.scium adcolis ingentem vim pra;bet. Liv. Hist.
1.38.C. 18.

The merit of this accuracy, however, is not due to Livy, but
to Polybius, from wdiom the Latin compiler copied this part of
his history.

Ch. 2.

67

of K6nia and Erkle form the district described by
Strabo as the cold and naked downs of Lycaonia,
which furnished pasture to numerous sheep and
wild-asses, and where was no water, except in very
deep wells. As the limits of Lycaonia are defined
by Strabo, and by Artemidorus, whom he quotes
to have been between Philomelium and Tyriaium
on the west, and Coropassus and Garsabora on the
east, — which last place was 960 stades from Ty-
riaium, 120 from Coropassus, and 680 from Ma-
zaca, — we have the exact extent of the Lycaonian
hills intended by the geographer. Branching from
the great range of Taurus, near Ilgun (Philome-

* Tarra etrr) xa\ ra Ttsc,) 'Opy.aopVKOvs xa) riirvio-ov,

xsl) rd r(Zv Avxxovwv 6p07ta$toc, r.OLi xai omypo^OT'aj

vSdrcay rs (rirdvis ‘j^oXXyi' oitov Sh xa) £f;ps7v ^uvaroy ^aSurara
ruiy Tfdvrujv, xsi^dirsp h Xodrpoig^ ottov xor) TrnrpdtrxsTOLi
roSoMp' £<771 56 xcu^aoVoAtj Tapaaoupiuy ir'/.r^trloy ojuiwj 06 xat-
Tsp dyvSp'js ov<7a, TTpo^ocroc txrpi(pei i&ay/xaa-rcyj, rpa~

>'oci Tiy£$ scurujy routwy (j^syltTrous TfXovrous
txTYf^xvro. ’A/xuvra^ o' uTrlp ,‘300 itol^Lva^ tv roTj roirois
ryjroig. Eia* ce xod Xi/xvat Kujpsc^ig fLev ij fji,£i^ujy, 7} $t i^drrwy
TpoyTrt;. ’EitauQx Si %oij xa) ro^lxonov icrrt, TroXlp^viov eu eruvcp-
xiG-pJvov xdl tVT’jy£< 7 Tepa.y tyjiv tyjS ovaypo-

bOroLi* rou7o S' £7ye Tlo?dp*(vy. llAijerta^ei 5’ y^Otj rouroif roif ro^

i Ta.vcos, 6 rr]y KaTrTraooxiav opi^cov xa.) ttjv Avxaoviay
irpic rovg VTrEpx£ipi.£vovs KiXixas rods T/;ap^etwraj. Aixaovujy Ss
xa) Kaxrraooxa’v opiov irrt ro (/.etsc^’j Kopoveca'crod xmi^y^s Av-
xocovyjv xa.) Tapa'o.oipwv xoAiy'^'^rj KccwiraSoxujv. *E<rri Si ro
S'*d. 77 Y^p.x riL'v (f povpluuv rourcoy 120 tto'j araont.

Strabo, p.oOS.

F*or the extract from Artemidorus, relating Uj the same sub-
jt‘<*t, see page .17.

I 2

68

Ch. 2.

Hum), and separating the plain of Laodiceia from
that of Iconium, they skirted the great valley which
lies to the south-eastward of the latter city, as far
as Erkle ; comprehending, to the north of Erkle
and Bor, a part of the mountains of Hassan Daghi.
It would seem that the depopulation of this coun-
try, which rapidly followed the decline of the Ro-
man power, and the irruption of the Eastern bar-
barians, had left some remains of the vast flocks
of Amyntas, mentioned by Strabo, in undisturbed
possession of the Lycaonian hills to a very late pe-
riod : for Hadji Khalfa, who describes the want of
wood and water in these hills,^ adds, that there was a
breed of wild sheep on the mountain of Fudul Baba,
above Ismil, and a tomb of the saint from whom
the mountain receives its name: and that sacrifices
were offered at the tomb by all those who hunted
the wild sheep; and who were taught to believe that
they should be visited with the displeasure of hea-
ven, if they dared to kill more than two of these
animals at a time

At the back of the Lycaonian hills was Soatra,
or Sabatra, situated in a part of the country so de-
solate, that water was sold in the streets. Sabatra

* Hadji Khalfa lived in the middle of the 17th century.
Whether any wild asses or wild sheep are still found on the
Lycaonian hills, I have never been able to learn ; but it is cer-
tain that the ovay^of, or wild ass, is still hunted on similar hills
in many parts of Persia. Naturalists have often confounded
this animal with the zebra.

Ch.2.

69

was at a distance ol' 55 Roman miles from Laodi-
ceia Combusta, and of 44 from Iconium
There is some diffic^ilty in understanding to which
of the lakes at the foot of the Lycaonian hills we are
to apply the names Coralis and Trogitis. Stephanus
mentions a city of CaralHs, or Caralleia, which he
ascribes to Isauria. About the same period of time
there was a Caralia belonging to the consular go-
vernment of Pamphylia, and a bishopric of that
province; but which had ceased to be an episcopal
see in the ninth centuryf. If these notices refer to
one and the same place, it is probable that the lake
of Karajeli is the ancient Coralis, or Caralis ; and
that the ruins which are found ne^ir its shore are
those of the town Caralleia In this case, the
lake of llgiin is probably the Trogitis of Strabo ;
for it is difficult to suppose that he meant the lake
of Iconium by either of those which he names.
As to the difference of size which he remarks be-
tween them, our information is so imperfect, and
the lakes themselves differ so much in size, accord-
ing to the seasons, that no certain inference can
be drawm from this distinction of the geographer.

* Tub. Peutingcr. segm. 6.

t ('Ompare Ilicrocles and the Acts of the Councils of Ephe-
sus, Chalcedon, and Constantinople, with the Notili® Grieco-
rum Episcopatuum.

; Livy (1. 38. c. 15.) mentions a Caralitis pal us j but it
seems to have been situated further westward than Karajeli,
and near the Cibyratis.*

70

Ch. 2.

One of the most remarkable features of this part
of Asia Minor is the lakeTatta; which, according
to Strabo, produced salt in such abundance, that
any substance immersed in it was very soon en-
tirely covered with the crystal ; and that birds were
unable to fly, if they had dipped their wings in it.
The lake still furnishes all the surrounding coun-
try with salt, and its produce is a valuable royal
farm in the hands of the Pasha of Kir-shehr.
In 1638, Sultan Murad the Fourth made a cause*
w'ay across the lake, upon the occasion of his
army marching to take Bagdad from the Persians.
The road from Ak-serai and Khoja Hissdr to Hai-
mane and to the north-westward, passes across the
lake.

The numerous places noticed in ancient history in
the country round the lake Tatta, and from thence
north-westward as far as DorylcEum, prove that,
however naked and disagreeable, it was hot unfruit-
ful. The natural landmarks, however, are so few,
and the mention of the towns by the ancients is so
slight, that it will be difficult for travellers to iden-
tify any ruins which may exist, unless where they
are assisted by the preservation of the ancient ap-
pellations, either in inscriptions or in the modern
names. At present, Germa and Orcistus are the
only two places whose sites are exactly determined ;
the former by the modern name of Yerma, the
latter by means of a Latin inscription which Po-

Ch. 2.

71

cocke copied at the modern village of Alekiam*.
Germa was a Roman colony, and probably flou-
rished after the decline of the neighbouring city of
Pessinus. Of Orcistus we know nothing, except
that its bishop subscribed to the Council of Chal-
cedon in the year 451, and that it continued to be
a see of the ecclesiastical province of the Second
or Pessinuntine Galatia until a late period of the
Byzantine Empire f.

The documents which chiefly assist in placing
the ancient cities of these parts of Lycaonia, Gala-
tia, and Phrygia, are the Antonine and Jerusalem
Itineraries, and the Peutinger Table. It is to be
regretted that we can seldom place entire confidence
in the distances contained in these authorities —
flagrant instances of discrepancy and inaccuracy
being so frequent as to make one very cautious in
trusting implicitly to them, without some corrobo-
rating evidence.

The following is a comparative view of the di-
stances in Roman miles, in the three Itineraries,

* Pococke, in mentioning this inscrijition in the Narrative
of his Travels (vol. 2. part 2. di. lij.), makes a blunder similar
to that which I have noticed relating to another inscription at
Afiom Karahissar. He observes, th.'it the inscription at Alekiam
contains the word Amorianorum no such word occurs, but
'' Orcistanorum ” is found twice 5 and the inscription, which is
long and curious, and (what is very uncommon with Pococke)
tolerably correct, clearly shows that Alekiam is the site of
Orcistus.

t ^fotiliaB Episcopatuum Gr*corum.

72

Ch.2.

between the several places on the great Roman road
from Nicaea, by Juliopolis and Ancyra to Tyana,
omitting such of the mere changing- or halting-
places * as are found only in one of the itineraries,
and correcting the orthography of some of the names
from the better authority of Strabo, Ptolemy, &c.

It, Anton.
Itinerary of
Antoninus.

From Nica?a to Tottaium
Dabl»

Dadastana
Juliopolis

It. Jliero&ol.
Itinerary of
Jerusalem.

Tab.

Peutingcr 'J’able

Juliopolis

Laganeos (Agannia in It.
Hieros.) . . . .

Ancyra

Total from Julio
to Ancyra .

. Total from Nica
Ancyra

Ancyra to Corbeua
Kosoh'giacum . .

Aspona . . .

Parnassus t • •

Total from Ancyra to }
l*arnassu.s . . i

44

. . 40

. . 40

28

. . 29

. . 23

45

. . 22

1 . 40

26

. . 25

. . 28

143

. . 116

. . 131

24

. . 21

. . 50

23

. . 16

52

. . 25-f thelast 66

stage Lag

99 .

, about 75

. .116

242

. about 1 9 1

. . 247

20

. . 21

12

1 2

31

. . 3 1

. . 73

24

. . 35

/

!

. . 99

* In the Jerusalem Itincrar)- the places are distinguished-by the
words Civitas, city; Mutatio, changing-place ; Mansio, kondk.
t These four distances occur again in the Antoninc (ed.

Ch. 2.

73

It, Anton. It. Hierosol.
Itinerary of Itinerary' of
Antoninus. Jerusalem.

Ozzala (logola in Hieros.)

17

. 1C

Nitazus (Nitalis in Hier.)

18

. 18

C olon ia Archelais

. 29

Total from Parnassus j
to Archelais . i

C2

. C3

Total from Ancyra to if
Archelais . . ^

149

. 1C2

Nazianzus (Nantianuius

in Anton., Anathiango

in Flieros.) . . .

2.5

24

vSasima

2d

24

Andabalis

1C

1C

Tyana

1C

deest.

Tab.

Peutinger Table.

. ns*'

27 t

Total from Archelais } 81
to Tyana . . S

C l -f tlH‘ C8 +
lust stage

Total from Aneyra to }
Tyana . . . ^

2l2i I8C

Wessel. p. 20j,), in the road from Anevra to ('jesareia, or
Mazaca, as follows — 21, IH, 20, 22 ; but 1 have rejected tlu-m,
hecaiise those given in the text from the Antonine are eon-
finned by the Jerusalem as far as Aspona. (In tlie other hand,
the 21 M. P. from Aspona to Parnassus, in the Antonine, is so
far confirmed by the 22 of the same itinerary in the road to
('iesareia, as to make it j)robable that the .'jo of the Jerusalem
is erroneous.

* This part of the route in the Table is very incorrect. Ni-
tazus; seems to stand in the place of Corbmis, and vice versa ;
and the names of Ancyra and Archelais are omitteiJ.

t rhis distance is taken from the road from Tyana to Mazaca.
+ By a route which must have been dilferent from tliat of
tlie other two itineraries ; none of the names being alike,

§ By assuming (from the Antonine) JC M.P. for the last
fringe to Tyana.

74

Ch. 2.

Tlie Antonine and Jerusalem proceed together
as far as Mopsucrene 56 M. P. from Tyana in
the former and 63 in the latter. From thence the
Antonine proceeds by iEgae to Baiae and Alexandria
ad Issum — and the Jerusalem to the same points
by Tarsus and Adana.

Between Tyana and the Pylte was situated Faus-
tinopolis, probably not far from the camp of Cy-
rus f; for it can hardly be doubted that Curtius, in
stating the Pyl 2 E to have been only fifty stades from
the camp of Cyrus, alluded to the beginning of the
passes. The narrowest part, which was particularly
called the Pylae, was towards the southern side of
the mountain, as the Jerusalem Itinerary;}: and
modern travellers concur in showing.

Of the places contained in the preceding extract
from *the Itineraries, Andabilis is the only one of
which the position is determined by the name in
actual use. But there is a strong presumption

* Mopsucrene was 12 M. P. short of Tarsus, and was noted
for the death of the Emperor Constantins. The name is dis-
figured in both the Itineraries. For the correction see the
authorities quoted in Cellarius, 1. 3. c. 7. § 122. ; but parti-
cularly Ammianus, 1. 21. c. 15., compared with Theophanes
Chronog. p. 39. The Antonine seems to have confounded
Mopsucrene with Mopsuestia and hence to have omitted the
distance between these two places.

t Xenoph. Anab. 1. 1 . c. 2. Arrian, 1. 2. c. 4. Q. Curt.
1. 3. c. 4. Strabo, p. .539.

X According to this authority, the post-station of the Pylae
(mutatio Pylae) was 24 M. P. from Tarsus.

Ch.2.

75

that Ak-serai stands on the site of Archelais, as
well from the agreement of its position on a line
drawn from A'ngura to Bor with that which the
distances in the Itineraries give to Archelais on the
same line, as from the remark of Pliny, that this
colony of Claudius stood on the Halys; for Ak-serai
by all accounts is watered by the stream which
forms the western branch of that river. As no
traveller, however, has yet described Ak-serai, we
are still uninformed whether it stands on the exact
site of the ancient colony, or only near it.

Upon comparing together the distances from Ni-
caea to Tyana in the three itineraries, it is obvious
that the Antonine is most to be depended upon ; for
in some of the important points in which it differs
from the Jerusalem it is confirmed by the Table ;
and in one instance, wdiere it differs froiii the Jeru-
salem, and where the Table fails us, it is confirmed
by itself in another passage. We may conclude,
therefore, in taking the road distance inllornan miles
between Nicaea and Ancyra at 242, and from Ancyra
to Tyana at 230. Both these measured on my con-
struction in distances of half a degree along the ge-
neral direction of the route give 150 geographical
miles or a rate of -,Vo ^ tJ. M. to the M. P. on
the former road, and of on the latter; both
somewhat below the correct rate of the Roman mile
on level ground (and such is by far the greater
part of this road), but sufficiently near the truth

76

Ch. 2.

to give a strong presumption of accuracy both
to the ancient numbers and to my construction.
It must be confessed, however, that the ancient
road which branched to Mazaca from the road
Ancyra — ^Tyana, compared with the map, does
not give a similar result. The distance of 114
M. P. between Parnassus and Mazaca in the An-
tonine Itinerary, compared with the 85 G. M. of
the map, gives a rate to the M. P. of not much
less than or of a G. M. Future geographers
will determine whether my construction is in fault
or the Itinerary, which unfortunately on this route
we have no means of checking by any other au-
thority.

There are five routes in the Table across Mount
Taurus, from the interior plains to the southern
coast. The easternmost is not connected at either
end ; but the word Paduando shows its real position.
The Pylos Cilicise. was also called the pass of Podan-
dus, which place w^as about midway between Tyana
andTarsus: this route of the Table, therefore, is evi-
dently intended for that from Tyana to Tarsus ; and
should be connected accordingly*. Next to this is
a road from Iconium, unconnected at its southern

* It should then be read thus, — ^Tyana .... Aquis Calidis 12
Podando‘2*2 Coriopio 12 in Monte r2Tarso Cilicia?. We know
from modern travellers, that there are about 12 miles from the
foot of the mountain to Tarsus. Corio})iuni here stands at the
same distance from Tarsu.s as Pylae in the Jerusalem, and is
probably the same place.

Ch. 2.

77

extremity, and without any places named on It,
except “the boundaries of Cilicia” and “ Mount
Taurus It is evidently intended for the road from
Iconium to Tarsus. The third route leads from Ico-
nium by Tetrapyrgia to Pompeiopolis: the sum of
its distances from “ ad fines” (the boundary of Ci-
licia) to Pompeiopolis is 54 M.P., or very nearly
the same as the distance from the “ boundaries ” to
Tarsus in the former road, and from the “ hot wa-
ters” to Taisus, in the first road. It gives us the
line of Tetrapyrgia f; a town, therefore, which can-
not be the same as that placed by Ptolemy in the
Garsauritis of Cappadocia. The fourth road led
from Iconium by Taspa, Isaura, and Crunse to Se-
Iciiceia, with a branch leading from between Isaura
and Crunse to Anemurium. It gives us the line of
Isaura, but its distances are imperft^ct The fiftli
road across the Taurus led from Iconium to Side,
with a branch to Antiocheia of Pisidia. The di-
stance in the Table seems to be 80 M. P. to Side,
which is about half the reality.

Having drawn upon the map the several routes

* I read it thus. Iconium 20 fines Ciliciie 2i) in Monte
Tiiuro Tarso Ciliciie : thus conncctiiii? tlic extremity, as in
till* former instance, with the words "larso Ciliciic. The num-
ber 20 (\x.) ought perhaps to be 120 (rxx).

I Tetrapyrgia and Crunae arc named together by the geo-
graphcT of Ravenna.

X The only two that have any appearance of reality are 24
M. P. from Taspa to Isaura, and 33 M. P. from Cruna? to Se-
leuceia.

78

Ch. 2.

of the three Itineraries, inserting the names of the
principal places at their proportional distances,
and correcting occasionally their orthography from
better authorities, it remains only for me, in refer-
ence to the central region immediately under con-
sideration, to offer some remarks upon a few of the
chief points on which the Itineraries are assisted
by other authorities. It is hoped that by these
several means the future traveller will be furnished
with an approximation that may assist him in as-
certaining the real sites*

The most important places in the northern part
of the country under consideration were (after An-
cyra), Juliopolis, Pessinus, and Amorium.

1. Juliopolis. — We learn from Strabo that this
city stood on the Sangarius, on the site of the an-
cient Gordium*, and that it received its name from
Cleon, a native, who after having exercised the
profession of robber with great success in Mount
Olympus, Phrygia Epictetus, and the adjacent di-
stricts, had the good fortune to make himself use-
ful, first to Marcus Antonins and afterwards to
Julius Cccsar: for these services he was acknow-

* [TXijo-/oy $£ KOii 0 'Zar/ydciog iroTafLOs TtoieiTOLi tijv pja-iv
Jtt/ 8s rovrw rd tcolKoliol twv oiKrjrijpta MiSoi/ xac.) In

irporspoy Vopciov xa) aWujv riycuv, ov$' iroXeutv

[JUKCLV rwv ctAXwv* olov etrri to I'dpSrjy ....

Strabo, p. 568.

To 8s rGp8ioy sTTi fjisy tpi'ylxf ryjf sS ' EWrjariTGvTov,
xsircLi sir) rod Eayyapiou Trora/xov. Arrian, lib. 1 . c. 29.

Ch. 2.

79

ledged by the Romans as an independent prince,
and was honoured with the priestliood of Coinana
in Pontus, and of Jupiter Abrettenus in Mysia: in
gratitude to Caesar, he gave the name of Juliopolis
to his native town, which had greatly declined from
its former importance until he made it his capital*.

It appears from an existing coin of Juliopolis t
that it was situated at the confluence of the San-
garius and Scopas, and from Procopius that it stood
about ten miles to the west of the Siberis Tiie
latter seems to have been the same stream which
Pliny calls Hiera, for he makes no mention of the
Siberis, but names the Hiera next to the Scopius ^ ;
and the Jerusalem Itinerary places the river Hierus
at 13 M. P. to the eastward of Juliopolis ||. The
respective distances of Juliopolis from Nicjca and
from Ancyra in the Antonine Itinerary fall precisely
at the point, where the stream named Aladan by
Paul Lucas unites with the Aiala or Sakaria not far

Strabo, p. 574.

t Kckhel. Doct. Num. vet. liithynia.

I Ecrri 0£ 7rora/jcoj tv raAcirais, ovttso xa,?.0’j<riy oi

TMv fjLEv xccXoviJisywy '^vyJtvv dyyi(rra,y
\ov?^i07r6\EUJ$ diro a-r^i/^EiMV fji,d.Xicrra. OfV.a 1$ ra tt^oj dn^yjjyra.
Y.i'jv. Procop. (le /Etlif. I. 5. c. 4.

§ De oaetero iiitus in Bithynia colonia A]:anit*na, Agrip-
penses, Juliopolitae^ Bithynion ; fluinina, Syrius, Lapsias, IMuir-
niicas, Alces, Crynis, Lil^us, Scopius, Micra, qui Bithyniam et
(nilatiam disterminat. I*lin. Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c.',i2.

II Civitas Juliopolis 13 M. P. Mutatio Hie; on potainon 11
M.P Agannia (Lagancus) Itin. Hierosol. p. .574 . Wessel.

80

Ch. 2.

to the westward of Sarilar. The character, also, of
being subject to inundation, which Procopius shows
to have been that of the Siberis *, agrees with a
remark of Lucas in regard to the Kirmir, which he
crossed between Beybazar and Alas, and which falls
into the Sakaria about ten miles to the eastward of
the junction of the Aladan. From all these consi-
derations it appears that the Aladan is the Scopas,
and the Kirmir the Siberis or Hierus; and that
some vestiges of Juliopolis would probably be found
at or near Sarilar at the junction of the Scopas or
Aladan with the Sangarius. Pliny remarks that the
Hierus was the boundary of Bithynia and Galatia,
thus agreeing with Ptolemy f, who places Julio*
polis the last town in liithynia, after Dabk'e and
Dadastana. At a later period, however, Dadastana,
where the Emperor Jovian died, was considered the
frontier town

That Juliopolis stood exactly at the junction of
the two rivers Sangarius and Scopas, may be in-
ferred as well from the coin as from Procopius,
wlio informs us that Justinian erected a dyke to
defend the tvalls of Juliopolis from the ravages of
a river flowing on the western side of the city || :

* Justinian built a bridge and dyke to preserve the high road
from the ravages of the Siberis. Procop. de^Edif. 1. 5. c. 4.

t Plin. ubi supr. Ptolcin. I o. c. 1.

J Ammian. 1. sub fin. Socrat. 1. 3. sub fin. Sozoinen,

1. 6. c. fi. Thcodorct 1. 4. c. 5.

II Procop I)c /Edif. 1. o. c. 1.

Ch. 2.

81

a remark which shows also, tl»at the city was on the
eastern side of the junction.

Tlie advantages which twice made this site the
capital of the surrounding country were not entirely
those of its position, at the confluence of two peren-
nial streams in the centre of the fertile valley of the
Sangarius, near the southern foot of the Olympene
range, and at a favourable point for commanding
the open country to the southward, though all these
must have had a powerful influence on its prosperity.
They were in part derived from its situation relatively
to tlie sea-coasts of Asia Minor; its central position,
and the facility of its communication as well with
the Eiixine and iEgasan as with the Pamphylian sea,
having made it one of the most frequented com-
mercial marts in the peninsula*.

* Postero die ad Gordiuiti pervenit. Id baud magnum qui-
dcm oppidum est, sed plus quam mediterrancum cek’bre et
fri’qiiens emporium : triii maria pari for:ne distantia intervallo
liabet, Ht'llcspontum, ad Sinopcn, et alterius one litora, qua
(Alices maritimi colunt : multarum magnarumque prasteroa gen-
tium fines contingit, quarum commercium in eum maxime locum
mutui usus contraxerc. Liv. I. 38. c. 18.

Phrygia tunc habebat quondam nobilem Mida; regiam ^ Gordium
nomcn est urbi, quam Sangarius aninis interfluit pari intervallo
Pontico et Cilicio mari distantem. Q. Curt. 1. 3. c. 1 .

These observations of Livy and Curtius may be taken as ex-
amples of the extreme negligence and inaccuracy often shown
hy the Latin authors in matters of fact relating to foreign coun-
tries. It could hardly have been unknown at Rome in their
lime, that Gordium Avas not half so distant from the Projiontis
or Kuxine as from the .Egjean or Cilician sea.

G

82

Ch. 2.

2. Pessinus. — It unfortunately happens, that the
only two ancient places in this country, the positions
of which are deduced from the superior though not
always infallible evidence, of apreservation of the an-
cient name, Orcistus and Gerrna, afford us very little
assistance in a determination of the neighbouring
sites. Orcistus does not occur in the itineraries or
in the march of Manlius ; its position at Alekiam
serves, therefore, only to show where those roads did
7iot pass. As to Gerrna, its position at Yerma is in
total disagreement with the itinerary of Antoninus,
according to which, Gerrna was 16 M. P. on the
road from Pessinus to Ancyra*; whereas Pessinus
being by the consent of Polybius, Livy, and Strabo
on the Sangariusf, and Yerrna being about 15

* Iter a Pesinunte Ancyram

- 99 M. P.

Sic Gerrna -

IG

V'india -

- 24

Papira -

- 32

Ancyra -

- 27

Iter a Dorylao Ancyra

- 141 M.P.

Sic Arcelaio

- 30

Gerrna -

- 20

\’'india -

- 32

Papira -

- 32

Ancyra -

- 27

The ,32 to \'india is an error for 24, as appears by the numbers
in the former list agreeing with the total : 32 seems by a mis-
take of the copier to have been written twice.

t Polyb. 1. 22. c. 20. Liv. 1. 38. c. IS. Strabo, p. of)/. Hero-

Ch. ±

S3

miles to the S. W. of that river, Pessinus should
rather have been on the road from Genna to An-
cyra, if Germa was at Yenna. We are under the
necessity, therefore, either of doubting the identity
of Yenna, or of rejecting the evidence of the An-
tonine as to the site of Pessinus. I am the more
inclined to adopt the latter part of the alternative,
because that itinerary is liable to great suspicion
in this place, from its total disagreement with the
Peutinger Table in its distance from Doryheum to
(ierma, while the Table on the other hand is con-
firmed by the actual construction. The Table
gives 77 M. P. from Doryheum to Pessinus

<Ii:in (in the Life of Coinmodiis) says that IVssimis was on
the Galliis ; |jut we know from Siraho tiuit the Ciallus was
that hraneh of the Sakan'u which waters the valley of Lefkc.
'riie mistake of Heroclian is easily areonntetl for : —The (iallus
being a very important branch of the Sangarius, the united
stream was often known by the former name; as we observe in
Ainmianus, — who in coupling the Gallus with the lake Sophon,
which we know from some passages in the Byzantine history
to have been the lake of Sabanja, — evidently means by the
(iallus the lower part <>f the Sangarius. In process of time
the name Gallus became applied to the whole course of the
Sangarius as far as its sources. I'he same thing happened
t4> the Scamander at Troy, the name of which between the
time of Homer and that of Antiochus the Great had become
attached not only to the part below the junction of the two
rivers, but to that also above it, as far even as the sources
of the Homeric Simoeis.

Dorileo 28 Mideo 28 Tricomia 21 Pessinunle. Tab.
iVutinger, seg. 6.

g2

84

Ch. 2.

which agrees very accurately with the 56 G. M. of
direct distance on the map ; whereas the Antonine
has only 50 M. P. from Dorylseum to Germa,
although according to that itinerary Germa ought
to be still further than Pessinus from Dorylaeum,
It is probable, therefore, that there is some error
in this part of the Antonine itinerary, and that the
Roman remains which Mr. Kinneir observed at Yer-
ma are really those of the Roman colony of Germa.

Pessinus was situated on theSangarius, at the foot
of mount Dindymum*. It appears from Livy '[ to
have been on the right bank of the river; for lie states
that Manlius coming from the southward, after hav-
ing constructed a bridge and crossed the river, was
met by the priests of Pessinus as he marched along
the bank ; and that having accepted the omen of their
predictions in favour of the Romans, he halted for the
day in the same place where he met them, which
appears to have been very near to Pessinus. As he
arrived on the next day at Gordiurn, which we have
already seen was only ten or thirteen miles from
the river Hierus ; and as his march in direct di-
stance could hardly have been more than 14 G. M.
— it is evident that Pessinus w^as not very far above
the junction of the Hierus with the Sangarius. It
is not improbable that it may have stood exactly
at the junction of these two streams, and that the

* Strabo, p. Tifir.

t Liv. 1. 38 c. 18.

Ch. 2.

85

Hierus may have received that name as partaking
of the sacred character of Pessiiius.

This position of Pessinus, it may be observed, is
in exact agreement with the account which Am-
niianus gives of the march of Julian from Ni-
caea ; who, after having followed the great road of
the Itineraries as far as the confines of Gallograecia
(near Gordiiim), turned to the right to Pessinus
The traveller, therefore, who after discovering the
site of Gordium should turn out of the great road
to A'ngura about Sarilar, and follow the right
bank of the Sangarius, could hardly fail In finding
some Indications of the site of a place which is de-
scribed by Strabo t as a great mart of commerce, and
which flourished as a metropolitan bishopric until
the Mussulman conquest:};. It is not impossible
that he might discover some remains of the very an-
cient and celebrated temple dedicated to Angistis,
the Great Goddess, or Phrygian Cybele, which had
been sumptuously adorned with porticos of white
marble by the Pergamenian kings, and which was
the object of the visit of the apostate emperor.

The only evidence of ancient history militating
against the position of Pessinus here supposed, is
the assertion of Strabo that the sources of the San-
garius were only 150 stades distant from Pessinus,

* Ammian. 1. 22. c. 9. 1 Strabo, p, 5f?7.

J Notit. Flpisf. GfcTc.

86

Ch. 2.

for this short interval does not very well agree with
the description of the Sakaria given by Pococke and
Kinneir, who crossed it considerably above the sup-
posed site of Pessinus*, — a better knowledge of the
country will show whether the error is in the num-
bers of Strabo, or in my conjecture as to the site
of Pessinus : or, perhaps, it may be found that the
sources of the Sangarius alluded to by Strabo were,
in the same manner as those of the Maeander and
of several other Grecian rivers, not the natural or
most distant springs of the river ; although, from
something remarkable in them, they may have been
the reputed sources.

3. Amorium chiefly flourished under the Byzan-
tine empire. It was the metropolitan see of the
Second Galatia, and was taken and cruelly plun-
dered by the Caliph Motasem, in the year of the
Christian sera 837 1 . Under the Saracens it rose
to be the chief town of all the surrounding coun-
try ; and continued to be so in the eleventh cen-
tury, when Idrisi wrote his geographical work;};.
The Turkish conquest, however, effected so com-
plete a change in the political arrangement and
geographical nomenclature of Asia Minor, that we
find no trace of the name of Amorium in the Turk-

* Pococke, however, observes, that the river was small **
where he crossed it, being near the sources.”

t Zonar. Ann. 1. 1.5. c. 29.

X Geogr. Nubiens. (Clim. 5. pars

Ch. 2.

87

ish Geographers; and future travellers will perhaps
find the best evidence of its site in its Saracenic
vestiges, combined with such slender data as the
Greek authors have left us. Strabo, and Stephanus
who follows him, place Amorium in Great Phrygia;
and Strabo clearly describes it * as being in the
country which lay southward of Cotyaeiuin, Dory-
laeum, and Pessinus ; westward of Lycaonia, and
in the parts near Phrygia Paroreius and Synnada.
And this situation of Amorium serves to explain,
and at the same time receives confirmation from,
a part of the Peiitinger Table which is rather ob-
scure. We find in this Table a road from Pessinus
to Amorium by Abrostola, and from thence to Lao-
diceia Combusta ; it then returns from Amorium
to Abrostola, and from the latter is carried to join
the great route from Ancyra to Tyana, at Sala-
berina (the Salambria of Ptolemy) 20 M. P. beyond
Archelais. Hence it seems evident, upon placing
these routes upon the map, that Amorium must
have been to the southward of Abrostola ; a situa-
tion which agrees very well with that described in
the words of Strabo.

^ S' ^pvyix$ ’A^avoi Te eltn xai

xa'i Koriasiov, xa) MiSdeiov xa) AopvXxiov iroKets * * * 'Tirtp Oe
’ETTixnjrou irpog votov t(rr)y ^px/yla, Aewoucra ev

dpiarepx ryjy Uea-trivouvra xa) rd irsp) 'Opxaopvxovs xa) Avxao-
yiav, Ev Se^iol Sh Malova$ xatACSovs xa) Kdpas* tv v iany rjte
llapcJpsiof XeyofJiiyyj ^puyla xa) ij irpog liiartSl^ xa) rd KBp) *A[x6~
piov xa) Evp^ivstay xa) EvvvaSa. Strabo, p. 576.

88

Ch. 2.

Tlie princess Anna Comnena* * * § relates that her
father Alexius, in his expedition against the Turks
in the year 1116, after moving from Dory laeum,
sent forward detachments of his army from a place
called Santabaris, towards Polyboturn in one di-
rection, and in another towards Poemanene and
Amorium. This seems to place Santabaris at or
near Seid-el-Ghazi, and Poemanene between that
place and Amorium,

Orcaoryci, which the passage of Strabo cited in
the preceding note tends to place to the northward
of Lycaonia, towards Pessinus, is shown by the
geographer’s description of Galatia to have been
between that city and the lake Tatta, on the con-
fines of the Tectosagesf. A third mention of
Orcaoryci by the same author, seems to imply that
it was not to the northward of Tatta Not far
from these places was a town called Pitnisus, or Pit-
nissa§, or Petenessus ||. Ptolemy, who considers
this country a part of Lycaonia, names Petenessus

* Anna Comn. 1. IT), p. 470.

t TfxroVayf^’ roL lepos (jt^eyd^y ^pvyia rf, Koerd dea'a't-
yowra xal *OpKciopvxovs. Strabo, p. 567.

X Mera dh tyiv TaXariav lepoi yorov ^re a/jxvtj eotiv ^ Tarra,
TtapOLKBip^iyyi rf, jxsyaAij KairTrahxia ry xard rods Mo/Ji/xijyoif,
y^epos ^ ovra r^s y>sydXrjS ^pvyias' xou rweyT^s ravrr, fis^pi

row Tavpou, ^s r^v iekeicm}v *Ayt,vvras ^Hre ^

Tirra irr) xa) ri vs§) *OpxaLOpvxoiis xai Uiryitrov xa) ra rwv
Avxaovuiv opoitkhoL xai \piAa, &'c. Strabo, p. 568.

§ Stephan, in Uirvirra. || Ptolcm. 1. 5. c. 4.

Ch. 2.

89

next to Daumanaj or Ecdaniua, or Ecdaumana —
the same, undoubtedly, as the Egdaua of the Table,
which places it at 71 M. P. from Abrostola, on the
road to Tyana. This position, therefore, of Pete-
nessus, and consequently of the neighbouring Or-
caoryei, agrees perfectly with that which is dedu-
cible from the obseiTations of Strabo. Orcaoryci
and the neighbouring places formed a part of the
a.rylous country described by Livy, through which
the consul Manlius marched his army in proceed-
ing from Synnada to cross the Sangarius near Pes-
siiius I am unable to trace his route, because
none of the names of the intermediate places
mentioned by him are found in any other author.
In any such attempt it will be necessary to recol-
lect that the boundaries of the Asiatic provinces
followed by Strabo, were not established until long
after the time of Manlius, by Augustus and Tibe-
rius, — that the Gauls had not long before conquered
the greater part of Asia Minor, and that the Con-
sul’s expedition was for the purpose of reducing
them. Hence we find that he arrived at the limits
of the Tolistobogii only in three days’ inarch from
lleudos ; he then moved, in four days, to Alyatti ;
from thence crossed the A.rylus to Cuballurn,
where he was attacked by the Galatian cavalry;
and from thence, in several days’ continued march

* Liv. 1. .'38. r. l."> rt scq.

(continentibus itineribus), he arrived at the San-
garius. It is evident that the Consul was not
inarching in any regular line during these days, but
was overrunning the country of the Tolistobogii,
while waiting for an answer from the king of the
Tectosages: it seems not at all improbable, there-
fore, that he may have advanced as far southward
as the Caballucome placed in the Table at 23 M.P.
from Laodiceia, and at 32 from Sabatra ; and con-
sequently, that the Caballucome of the Table may
be the same as the Cuballum of Livy.

There can be little doubt that the Tolosocorio
marked in the Table at 24 miles from Abrostola,
in the road to Tyana, and which by Ptolemy is
written ToKu(tt6')(^(vpu^ ought to be Tolistochora,
“ the town of the Tolistobogii ” ; who being the
southern and western division of the Galatians,
must have precisely occupied the part of the country
in which the direction and distances of the route
in the Table place Tolistochora It has already
been remarked, that the Egdaua of this road in the
Table is the Ecdaumana of Ptolemy; in like man-
ner Congusso may be corrected from him into Con-

* The chief town of the Tolistobogii, however, in the time
of Strabo, was not Tolistochora, but Pessinus. Ancyra, accord-
ing to the arrangement of Augustus, was the chief town of
the Tectosages, who occupied the central part of Galatia^ and
Tavium was that of Trocmi, who possessed the eastern part of
the province. Strabo, p. 5(37.

Ch. -2.

91

gustus; Petra into Perta, which writing ia confirmed
by the Notitiae Episcopatuum * ; and Salaberina
into Salainbria, at which place the road fell into
that from Archelais to Tyana.

* A bishop of Perta sat in the Second Nicene Council, a,i>.
787.

Additional note to page H J .

The existence of a large district in the interior of Asia Minor,
in which the waters do not flow to the sea, and that much
larger tract on the frontier of Persia, and Caubnl, which is
watered by the Ehnend, (Etymander) terminating in a lake
subject to periodical inundations, seem sufficient without other
examples to render it probable that a great part of the still
larger continent of North Africa may have a j)hysical construc-
tion of the same kind, and that its interior may be a system
of oase.s, formed by rivers ending in lake.s which vary in size
according to the season of the year. The mode in whicli
Nature fertilizes low lands in countries so situated as to (‘limate
that rain seldom falls, except in the mountains or tlieir vicinity,
is exemplified in Egypt; and it is obvious that the same end
may be produced, whether the inundating river has a delta and
a communication wdth the sea, or whether it terminates in a
lake which overflows large plains around its banks after the
season of ruin in the high lands. In some instances, as in the
small district of Taka, which is situated in the midst of the
Desert, between the Astaboras and the Red Sea, the inunda-
tion which descends from the mountains of Aby.ssinia jirevious
to the season of vegetation, is afterwards totally dried up.
(Hurckhardt’s Nubia, p.387.) But it more frefjuently happens
that the recipient preserves apart of its water all the year; and
this seems to be the condition of the lakes of Fitre and Bornou.
From the southern slopes of the African mountains bordering on

92

Ch. 2.

the Mediterranean Sea, several considerable riVers run south-
ward into the great Desert, which cannot terminate otherwise
than in fertilized sands, or lakes, or inundations. ITie lake
Dibbie, or Tybe, which was crossed by Alexander Scott in the
course of his captivity, we know from Park to be an inundation
derived from the Niger. It is not impossible that the lake of
Bornou may originate, in part at least, from the same stream j
for as Nature generally economizes her means, it is evident
that in the case of an interior river the greatest effect will be
produced by the spreading of its waters as its course advances,
instead of their being collected into one bed, as occurs in rivers
which flow into the sea. In proportion, therefore, as the in-
formation of travellers may show tlie impossibility of a junction
of the Niger with the Nile (and Browne and English seem to
have furnished the strongest evidence to this effect), it will
become more probable that the Niger, by branching and by
expanding into lakes and inundations, is the great fertilizing
cause throughout the low countries of North Africa which lie
just without the reach of the tropical rains. Thus spread out
and exposed to the rapid evaporation of an African sun, the
Niger may be as large, or perhaps even larger where Park saw
it at Sego, than in any subsequent part of its course. In several
rivers of Spain, Italy, and particularly of Greece, artificial de-
rivations alone have caused a similar effect j so that the quantity
of water in the bed of the river diminishes instead of increases
from the foot of the mountains to the sea. Even the Nile car-
ries very little of its water to the sea, except during the inun-
dation; and in ancient times when the’Maeris and other smaller
lakes were annually filled to a great extent, and when three or
four times as much land w’as watereil by the overflowing of the
river as in the present day, the quantity of water discharged
by the mouths of the Nile must have been still smaller than it
is at present.

CHAPTER III.

CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNEY FROM k6nIA.

Tsh umra — Kassahd — Karamdn orLdranda — Ancient Cities of this
Part of the Country — Laranda, Derhe, Lysira, Ilistra. — Pas-
sage over Mount Taurus into the VaUey of the Calycadnits —
Mout. — Passage of another UUlge of Taurus — Sheikh- Amur —
Approach to the Sea-coast — G ulnar or Keldnderi, ancient Co-
lendcris — Ancient Cities of the Interior of Tracheiotis — Olbasa
Claudiopolis — Philadelphia — Dioceesareia. — Passage by Sea to
Cyprus — Tzcrxna — Lcjlcosia — Ldrn aka — Ret u rn to Tzerut
Passage by Sea toKhdradra — CapeSelenti — Aldya. — Authors
Route J)y Sea along the Coast to Constantinople, — Journal
(f General Koehler from Aldya to Shughut — Alara — Mcnov-
gdl — Stavros — Addlia — Bidjikli — Tshultigshe — Rurdur —
Ketsihurlu — Domhai — Sandakli — Sitshanli — A! tun 7\xsh —
Kutdya — Indghi — Shughut,— Conclusion of the Tour,

Feb. 1. — Our journey of tins day is from Konia
to Tsbumra, reckoned a six hours’ stage. We have
remarked that since leaving Ak-shehr the post-
horses are of an inferior kind. They are larger
and not well formed, often broken-knee’d, and fre-
(jiiently falling, which seldom happened in the first
part of our journey. Those supplied from Konia
for this day’s journey are very indifferent, and we
did not get them till ten o’clock, nor till after we
had paid some high fees to the post- master and
Tatar-aga. The plain of Konia is considered the
IfiVgest in Asia Minor; our road pursues a perfect
level for upwards of twenty miles, and is in excel-

94

Ch. 3.

lent order for travelling. In such roads the journey,
even with loaded horses, may be performed in two-
thirds of the computed time. A rough kind of
two-wheeled carriage, drawn by oxen or buffaloes,
is used in this plain. It runs upon trucks, inge-
niously formed of six pieces of solid wood, three
in the centre, and three on the outside, the outer
joints falling opposite to the centre of the inner
pieces; the wliole is kept together by an iron
felloe, and by fastenings connecting fhe outer pieces
with the inner.

Tshumra is a small village with a scanty culti-
vation around it. We are lodged in a Turk’s cot-
tage, which consists of two apartments. The inner
(which is considerably the larger of the two) is for
his horse; the other is separated from the passage
leading into the stable by two or three steps and a
low rail, and is just sufficient to contain the fire-
place, and a sofa on either side of it. This is the
whole of his habitation, and here we are just able
to find room enough to lie down at night.

Feb. 2. — ^I'Voni Tshumra to Kassaba, nine hours
over the same uninterrupted level of the finest soil,
but quite uncultivated, except in the immediate
neighbourhood of a few widely dispersed villages.
It is painful to behold such desolation in the midst
of a region so highly favoured by nature. Another
characteristic of these Asiatic plains is the exact-
ness of the level, and the peculiarity of their extend-

Ch. 3.

95

ing, without any previous slope, to the foot of the
mountains, which rise from them, like lofty islands
out of the surface of the ocean. The Karamanian
ridge seems to recede as we approach it, and the
snowy summits of Argaeus are still seen to the
north-eastward. We passed only one small village
in this day’s route. It was called Alibey Kiiii, and
was situated at one hour’s distance short of Kassaba.
We observed, however, some ruins of villages, and
in several places fragments of ancient architecture,
particularly about half way, at a bridge constructed
almost entirely of such remains, which traverses a
small stream running from the mountain on our
right to the lake of K6nia.^ At three or four miles
short of Kassabii, we are abreast of the middle
of the very lofty insulated mountain already men-
tioned, called Kara-dagh. It is said to be chiefly
inhabited by Greek Christians, and to contain 1001
churches ; but we afterwards learned that these
1001 churches (IJin-bir Klissa) was a name given
to the extensive ruins of an ancient city at the foot
of the mountain. Since leaving Konia we have
experienced more civility from the inhabitants than
before; a change to be ascribed to our being now
upon a less frequented route. On approaching
Kassabd, the people met us in great numbers. One
j)erson threw a pair of pigeons, with the legs tied
together, under the feet of the general’s horse;
others wrestled and danced. On arriving at our

96

Ch. 3.

lodging they brought us presents of water-melons,
dried grapes, and other fruits. Kassaba differs
r^ from every town we have passed through, in being
built of stone instead of sun-baked bricks. It is
surrounded with a wall flanked by redans, or an-
gular projections, and has some handsome gates
of Saracenic architecture. It has a well supplied
bazar, and seems formerly to have been a Turkish
town of more importance than it is at present.
The dry clear weather which has been so propitious
to our travelling, has been very unfavourable to
agriculture. At Kassaba we are informed that
there has been neither snow nor rain for two
months, and that the drought is very distressing.
Khatun-senii is four hours to the westward of Kas-
sabd, in a pleasant situation in the mountains.

Feb. 3. — ^From Kassabd to Karaman, four hours:
the weather cool and overcast; the road still pass-
ing over a plain, which towards the mountains
begins to be a little intersected with low ridges
and ravines. At one hour from Kassaba we pass
on the outside of Illisera, a small town with low
walls and towers, built of mud bricks, and situated
upon a rising ground half a mile from the foot
of the mountains. Between these mountains and
the Kara-dagh there is a kind of strait, which
forms the communication between the plain of
Karaman and the great levels lying eastward of
Konia. Having passed this opening, we enter the

t h. 3.

97

plain of Karaiiiciii. Our course from Koiiia lias
been more southerly tlmn it was before we reached
that town, or upon an average S. by E. by com-
pass. We are told that the mountains above II-
lisera produce madder in great abundance, partly
used in the dyeing manufactories of Konia, and
j)artly sent to Smyrna. The plain of Karaman
and the foot of the surrounding mountains are in
gcMieral well cultivated ; and as they present a more
bounded prospect, and are intersected with frequent
streams, and varied with swelling grounds, they
arc much more pleasing and picturesque than the
iinmense unbroken levels we have tor so many days
been travelling over.

Advancing towards Karuman I perceive a pass-
Jige into the plains to the N.W. round the north-
ern end of Kara-dagh, similar to tluit of Illisera on
the south, so that this mountain is comj'detely insu-
lated. Viti still sec to the north-east the great snowy
summits of Argieus, which is probably the highest
point of Asia Minor*. As we approached the town
of Karaman two horsemen met us, and conducted
iis to our Konak, at the house ot the Vekil of the

* Hy the (iescription of Mr. Kinnnr it ajipears that Argajus
iv not less than 8 or fK)00 feet above the sea; for it was covered
With snow to a great distance below the summit in f)('tobiT :

expression, tlunefore, ot OiOj 7ravr;'-v u'pr,?.d7aro^ may,
p. rluips, apply to it with truth, if we confine his observation to
tin* (ountrie.s between the Caucasus and tlie Alps,

II

98

Ch. 3.

liisliop of Iconiuin, who is at the head of the
Christian conmiunity of the jilaec. Kaiiiietin is
situated at a distance of two iisiles from tlie foot
of the mountains. Its ancient (ircek name, La-
randa, with the Jiceeiit on the first syllabU*, is still
in coninion use among the Christi.ms, arul is
even retained in the finnahms of the Porte. ^I he
houses, in lumihei* about a thousiiiul, are separated
from one another l)y gardens, and occiij»y ii large
space of ground. There are now ojily three or
four mosques, hut I observed the ruins (>i several
others; and the remains of a castle show that the
place was fonneily of much great(*r importance.
It was the capital of a Turkish kingdom, uliich
lasted from the time of tlu* partition of the domi-
nions of the Seljukian monarchy of leimium until
148fi, when all Caranirniia was reduce d to subjec-
tion by tile Ottoman emperor Ikiyazid the Second.
Karamiin derives its name from the first and great-
est of its princes, who on the death of Sultan
Aladin the Second, about the year 1300, made
himself master of Icoiiium, Cilicia, Pamphylia,
Lyeaonia, and of a large portion (if Phrygia and
Cappadocia. His name, like those of some other
Turkish chieftains*, who at the same time shared
among them a great part of the western provinces
of the peninsula, has been transmitted to poste-

* Karnsi, S:\riiklian, Aidin, Kermian. (See Nieeph. Greg.
1. 7 e. I . Chaleoeond. I. I . )>. 7 .

Ch. O.

99

litv in one of the great Turkish divisions of Asia
Minor. The Ottomans upon obtaining posses-
sinii of Karanuin subdivided it into Kbaridj the
outer and Itshili the interior country : probably
lueanse to them who came from the north-cast
b>hlii, which comprises the Cilician coast and
Cyprus, lav behind or within the mountains; Ico-
iiimn the former Seljukian capital became the scat
of the Ottoman Pashalik; and the decline of the
town of Karamdn may be dated from that pe-
•riud.

1"he appearance of Kararnan indicates poverty.
The only manufactures are scone coarse cotton and
w ()llen studs; but they send the produce of the
surrounding mountains, consisting chielly of hides,
wool, and acorns used in dyeing, to the neighbour-
iog coasts and to Siiiyrna. The houses are built
«*r Min-l)akeJ bricks, with flat roofs. '^ITe chimneys
hclug verv wide, and much exposed to violent winds
from the surrounding mountains, have a trap-door
the lop, which may he raised or lowcaxci at
pliasine, by means of a cord, communicating
through the roof into the bouse. The*, women of
Kaiainiin when passing through the streets conceal
their faces with unnsnal care. In the otlier parts
'»f Asia Minor a veil covering the upper and lower
p ’vts of tlie face lias been the utmost we liave re-
‘t'urked, but here I see several women with only a
^'ingle eye exposed to the view of passengers. ^Jlie
H ‘2

100 Ch.

rest of the person is in the usual shapeless form of
Turkish drapery.

We could not find any Greek remains at Kara-
nian, with the sole exception of a stone in a wall
near the entrance of the castle with the words
ICDANNllC AOMeCTlKOC upon it.

The chief ancient towns near Laranda were Derbe
and Lystra, whose names have been immortalized
by the sacred writer of the Acts of the Apostles
— About the middle of the century preceding the
birth of Christ, Derbe was the residence of an in-
dependent chief, or robber, as Strabo calls him
named Antipatrus, who possessed also Laranda.
Antipatrus having been slain by Amyntas king of
Galatia, Derbe fell into the power of the latter;
who had already received Isauria from the Romans,
uj)on its reduction by Servilius. Aniyntas con-
cpiered all Pisidia, as far as Apollonias,. near Apa-
meia Cibotus ; but having fallen in fighting with
the Ilomonadenses, his dominions devolved to the
Romans ; who having not long afterwwds suc-
ceeded also to those of Archelaus king of Cappa-
docia, made a new distribution of these provinces,
in which Derbe, as we have already seen, w^as the
western extremity of the Cilician pnefecture of

Act. Apost. c. 14.

t Cicero speuks of him with more respect : “ Cum Antipa-
tro Derhetc mihi non solum hospitium, verum etiam summa
familiaritas intercedit.” — Ep. ad Div. 1. 13. ep. 73.

Ch. 3.

101

Cappadocia. Strabo, from whom we learn most
of the preceding facts *, observes in another place,
that Derbe was on the Isaurian frontier of Cappa-
docia^. But it must also have been on the frontier
of Lycaonia ; for about the same time St. Luke calls
both Derbe and Lystra cities of Lycaonia. About a
century afterwards, we find that Derbe had been se-
parated from the Cilician praefectiire of Cappadc^cia,
and that it formed, — together with Laraiula and
the adjacent part of Mount Taurus, which contained
Olbasa, — a separate district called Antiochiana ;
which Ptolemy places between Lycaonia and the
Tyanitis:}:. From all these circumstances, there
seems no doubt that Derbe stood in the great Ly-
caonian plain, not far from the Cilician 'i aurus,
on the Cappadocian side of Laranda ; a situation
precisely agreeing with that of the ruins called
the JOUl churches of Mount Kara-dagh. These
ruins have never been visited, or at least described,
by any modern traveller ; nor has the route from
Liiranda to Erkle, near which they stand, been tra-
versed by any except Bertrandon de la Broequiere,
in 14.32, from whom we learn nothing more than
that he travelled for two days in a plain from Erkle

* Strabo, p. 534. 557.

t Ss'l(racvpi>i^S sa-rtv tv irXsvpa'tS, ij AcpCij, [j^dXiarrx iv
Ksf.TT’ffxSoxia iTrnre(pvK6f, ro roo "AvTiirdrpou Tvpavvti^v rov
rz’j- rouTou Y/V xat ra Adpav$a. Strabo, p. 551>.

t 1. 5. c. 5.

102

Ch, 3.

to Ldranda. It is impossible, therefore, to say,
whether there is any lake near these ruins, which
will support the conjecture that the .word
used by Stephanus * in speaking of Derbe, may be
altered into ; for without this change the word
can have no meaning.

Lystra appears to have been nearer than Derbe
to Iconium ; for St. Paul, leaving that city, proceeds
first to Lystra, and from thence to Derbe; and in
like manner returns to Lystra, to Iconium, and to
Antioclieia of Pisidia. And this seems to agree with
the arrangement of Ptolemy, who places Lystra
in Isauria, and near Isaura, which seems evidently
to have occupied some part of the valley of Sidy
Shelir, or Bey Sliehr. Under the Greek empire,
Homonade, Isaura, and Lystra, as well as Derbe
and Laranda, were all included in the consular
province of Lycaonia, and were bishoprics of the
metropolitan see of Iconium. The similarity of
name induced me at first to believe that Lystra
was situated at the modern Illisera; but we Jind,
as w'ell in the civil arrangement of the cities in
Hierocles as in two ecclesiastical lists in the No-
titiffi Episcopatuum, that Lystra and Ilistra were
distinct places. I am inclined to think that the
vestiges of Lystra may be sought for with the great-
est probability of success at or near Wiran Khatoun
or Khatoun Serai, about 30 miles to the southward

♦ Stephan in

Ch. 3.

103

of Iconium. Nothing can more strongly show the
little progress that has hitherto been made in a
knowledge of the ancient geography of Asia Minor,
tlnin that of the cities, which the journey of St. Paul
has made so interesting to us, the site of one only
(Iconimn) is yet certainly known. Perga, Antioch
of Pisidia, Lystra, and Derbe, remain to be disco-
vtrnd.

Feb. 4. — Such is the poverty of Karamdn, that
we cannot procure the number of horses necessary
for our party, and are obliged to perform the re-
mainder of the journey to the coast, reckoned at
thirty-six hours, with camels, instead of horses,
for carrying our baggage, although the intervening
t’ack, being almost entirely mouniainons, is the
l.iiid of country the least adapted to that animal,
it S( quires all this day to procure a sufficiency of
e.imels and horses; and we are uitder the necessity
of (Icferiing our departure.

Feb. 5. — The arrival of Captain Lacy from Con-
>t;mtinople produces a further delay this morning,
an addition to our cattle being necessary. It was
eleven o'clock before we set out from Karamdn,
though we rose at two, and were ready to start at
four. At t!ie distance of two or three miles from
the town we began to ascend, and entered the
mountainous region which extends all the way to
tile coast, and which anciently formed part of the
division of Cilicia called Tracheiotis, or Cilicia

104

Ch. 3.

Tracheia. Our caravan now consists, besides saddle-
horses, of thirteen camels, one of which is laden
with provisions for the rest. On account of the
difficulty of the road, their burthen is light; they
carry no more than the usual load o#a horse, yet
with this easy weight they do not move quicker
than two miles and a half in the hour. They step
a yard at a time, and make about seventy-five steps
in a minute. The post-horses laden with baggage
in the former part of the route, moved at the rate
of three miles and a half an hour in the plains.
Entering the hills, we see rocks excavated into a
great number of chambers, anciently sepulchral,
but now inhabited by peasants and shepherds. As
we leave the plains the climate changes. At four
hours from Karaman, in the lower region of the
mountains, we pass a village where the snow begin-
ning to fall heavily, and there being no habitation
beyond for the next fifteen hours, our guides and
attendants are much inclined to remain for the
night ; but our delay at Karaman makes us impa-
tient to proceed, and we advance four hours further
to a khan in the wildest part of the mountain.
During the ascent, the road presented some mag-
nificent views of mountain-scenery. On the left
was a very lofty peaked summit, one of the highest
of the range of Taurus, probably between 6 and
7000 feet above the level of the sea. In the lower
regions of th^ mountain, we passed through woods

Ch. 3.

105

consisting chiefly of oak» ilex, arbutus, lentisk, and
junipers of various species. As we ascend, we en-
ter the region of pines ; and through the latter part
of the route do not see a living creature ; though
we are told that the woods abound with deer, wild
boars, bears, and wolves. The khan where we take
up our lodging for the night is deserted, and partly
in ruins. As we resolve not -Co unload the camels,
they are seated on the outside of the khan in a ring
round the door. We break some branches from the
fir-trees, now heavily covered wdth snow, which grow
near the khan, then select a part of the building
where the roof is still entire, and make a fire on one
of the hearths which are ranged in a line along the
inside of the wall. Here we cook some meat which
we had brought with us, and then sleep round the
fire till midnight ; soon after which we send off our
camels in advance, and at six o’clock (Feb. (>.) pur-
sue our journey to Moul, distant eleven hours. —
The weather is again fine. The road lies over the
highest ridges of the mountains, where, amidst the
forests of pines, are several beautiful valleys and
small plains, forming with the surrounding rocks
and woods the most beautiful scenery. In several
places we trace the footsteps of the wild animals,
and observe spots where wild boars have been root-
ing up the earth. The soil is fertile in the inter-
vals of the woods, and the climate cannot be very
severe during the greater part of the year, there be-

106

Ch. 3.

♦

ing no permanent snow, now in the middle of win-
ter, upon any but the highest summits. There ap-
pears, however, no trace of cultivation, tlauigh there
is ample proof tliat these mountains were anciently
well inhabited ; for we meet with scarcely a roi k
remarkable for its form or position, tliat is not
pierced with ancient cat??coinbs. Many of these
rocks present at a i^mall distance the exact appear-
ance of towers and castles. At a khan half way
between our last night’s konak and Mont, we begin
to descend into the valley where this town is situ-
ated. The khan seems to stand upon the site of
an ancient temple, or other j)uhllc htrildln?, ihcre
being many fragments of ancitmt arehittcsun’ i i its
walls, and lying around it, and among the latter
a handsome Corinthian capita). Not far beyond
the khan we stop to examine a tall rock, which,
partly by its natural form, and partly by the eflect
of art, represents a high tow^er. At the foot of it
is a niche with a semicircular toj), thee lower part
forming a coffin, cut out of the solid rock ; the lid
of this sarcophagus, which is a separate stone, lies
at the foot of the rock; upon it is the figure of a
lion stated in the middle, with a boy at either end;
the boy facing tlie lion has his foot upon the paw
of the animal. The sculpture is much defaced,
and the heads have been purposely destroyed. We
find also many entire sarcophagi, with their co-
vers. They had all been opened; in some instances

Ch. 3.

107

by throwing off the covers, in others by forcing a
bole through the sides. The usual ornament is the
vapid bovis with festoons, but some have on one
side a defaced inscription on a tablet ; on either
side of this are ornaments varying on different sar-
cophagi. We observe on some, a garland on one
side of the tablet, and a crescent on the other; some
have cniblems which seem to refer to the profession
of the deceased. Tliese,andall the other monuments
of antiquity we have met with, excepting those of
Dj^ganlu, are evidently of the time of the Romans.
Not far fiTun the spot where we saw these remains
is the village of Mahile; not in view from our road;
it may, perhaps, have been the site of the ancient
town to which the sepulchres belonged. From
hence we begin to descend through woods of oak,
beech, and other timber-trees, growing amidst an
underwood of arbutus, andrachne, ilex, lentisk, and
many other of the shrubs cultivated with so much
care in onr gardens. As we approach the valley,
we meet with the wild olive in considerable quan-
tities, and at length, after a very rugged descent,
we enter the valhy of Mout. The tow^n and its
dependent territory are governed by a pasha of two
tails: who in this retired and distant situation
seems to care little for the orders of the Porte, fov
he laughs at our firmahn, and declares, what the
desolate appearance of the place tends to confirm,
that he has not a horse or a camel to furnish us

108

Ch. 3.

with ; but he offers us forage for our cattle, and
lodging for ourselves. The latter is a ruinous hut
in the castle, where we can procure nothing but
some coarse barley- bread to add to the meat which
we brought with us. The w^alls of the castle are
surmounted with battlements, flanked by square
towers open to the interior. In the middle is a
round tower, cased, as it were, in another circular
wall, rising to half the height of the tower, and
leaving a narrow interval between them-*. On one
side of the castle is a precipice, the foot of which
is washed by a river.

Mout stands on the site of an ancient city of
considerable extent and magnificence. No place
we have yet passed preserves so many remains of
its former importance, and none exhibits so melan-
choly a contrast of wretchedness in its actual con-
dition. Among the ruined mosques and baths,
which attest its former prosperity as a Tuikish
town under the Karamanian kings, a few hovels
made of reeds and mud are sufficient to shelter its
present scanty population. Some of the people we
saw living under sheds, and in the caverns of the
rocks. Among these Turkish ruins and abodes of
misery may be traced the plan of the ancient Greek
city. Its chief streets and temples, and other pub-
lic buildings, may be clearly distinguished, and

* Tliere is a similar keep at Launceston in Cornwall.

Ch. 3.

109

long colonnades and porticoes, with the lower parts
of the columns in their original places. Pillars of
verd antique, breccia, and other marbles, lie half-
buried in different parts, or support the remains of
ruined mosques and houses. Most of the inhabit-
ants whom we saw appeared half-naked, and half-
starved ; and this in a valley which promises the
greatest abundance and fertility, and which is cer-
tainly capable of supporting a large population.
Its scenery is of the greatest beauty : the variegated
pastures, groves, and streams are admirably con-
trasted with the majestic forms and dark forests of
the high mountains on either side. Every thing is
seen that can be desired to complete the pictu-
resque, unless it be an expanse of w^ater.

Feb. 7. — In leaving Mout this morning, .we
particularly admire the fine effect of the castle with
its round and square towers, the precipices with the
river below them, the surrounding trees, and the
ancient colonnades; and, among the most remark-
able of the modern buildings, an old Turkish
mosque, with the tomb of Karamdn>Oglu, its
founder. On quitting the town, we pass along the
ancient road, which led through the cemetery.
Sarcophagi stand in long rows on either side; some
entire and in their original position, others thrown
down and broken ; the covers of all removed, and
in most instances lying beside them. The greater
part were adorned with the usual bulls head and

110

Ch. 3.

festoons, and had a Greek inscription in a tablet
on one sifle. The letters were sufficiently pre-
served to indicate the date to be that of the Roman
.Empire. We looked in vaiirfor the name of the
city; thoiigjh, perhaps, it might have been found,
with more leisure than we could command.

Tlie journey of this day is from Mout to Sheikh
Amilr, reckoned i2 hours for walking horse*', and
18 for camels; the proportion of their movements
being nearly as two to three. We had wished to
have sent oft’ our camels in the middle of the night,
and to have followed in the morning, that we might
all have arrived at our journey’s end at the same
time, but the Pasha’s language and the wildness of
the country make us think it more advisable to
keep together. Another apprehension of more real
magnitude is suggested by our Tatar, that the dri-
vers, having been forced to go beyond their post,
would take some opportunity, unless we should
send a sufficient force along with them, of cutting
oft’ the baggage, leaving it on the road, and perhaps
plundering it, and riding away with the horses and
camels. We had risen at three in the morning,
but could not with every exertion set out from
Mout before seven ; from which time we conti-
nued travelling, without halting, except occasion-
ally for a few minutes, till eleven at night; having
during tlie last two hours preceded the camels,
which arrived at a little pa.st twelve. For the first

Ch. 3.

Ill

two or three hours, the road led us along the de-
lightful valley of Mont. A little beyond a small
villap:e, around which are some rice-grounds, vve
forded, by the help of guides belonging to the
place, a deep and rapid river, called the Kiuk-su
(Sky-bine river). The river of Mont is a branch of
this stream, and joins it further dow n the valley.
Af‘er passing over a level for a short distance, we
crossed another stream rather wider than the former,
the water of w hich runs perfectly clear over a bot-
tom of pebbles. This branch, the principal of
those which form the Calycadnus, is called the
Ermen(5k-su, from a towm of that name near its
sources in the western part of the valley, where, we
are informed, considerable remains of antiquity, si-
milar to those of Mout, are to be seen. Others
are said to exist also lo wer dow^i the valley, betw^een
iMont and Selefke. l^he Calycadnus passes the
ruins of Sckuceia at Selefke, and joins the sea not
far below that place. Soon after crossing the Er-
men^k we began to ascend, and travelled for the
rest of tlie day along a horse track amidst tlie fo-
rests and iiiountains. The oaks are ma numerous,
and are chiefly confined to the lower regions, where
they are interinixed with arbutus, ilex, cornel, ju-
niper, lentisk, &c. In the upper parts scarcely any
trees are seen but pines of different specibs: most
of these are of a moderate size, but some which
we saw in the highest parts of the mountain were

112

Ch. 3.

straight, large, tali, and fit for the masts of ships of
war. Great numbers had been destroyed for the
sake of the turpentine, by making an incision near
the foot of the tree and lighting a fire under it,
which has the effect of making the resin run more
freely. The summits in the centre of the ridge
which we crossed yesterday are higher than any
part of this range ; but these mountains are more
extensive, and of a still wilder and more rugged de-
scription. We are told, that in addition to the
wild animals found in the ridge to the north of
Mout, the forests of these mountains contain ti-
gers, or at least an animal to which the Turkish
name of Kaplan is given. The road sometimes
passed along the edge of precipices of immense
height ; at other times it was a rugged path, climb-
ing amidst broken rocks, where there seemed hardly
a footing for a mule; and at others it was a de-
scent upon banks and slopes so slippery that it was
difficult even on foot to avoid falling. The camels,
whose footing is so very ill formed for such roads,
passed them nevertheless without any material ac-
cident ; they had no doubt been often accustomed
to carry the merchandize of the people of Karamdn
across the mountains which separate that town from
the coast in every direction ; and it may be men-
tioned as a remarkable instance of the force of ha-
bit. We met with a very civil reception from the
Aga of Sheikh-Amur, wdio presented us with part

Ch. 3. 113

of a large wild boar which liis men had killed in
the woods.

This morning, (Feb. 8.) we are much gratified by
the delightful situation of the village perched upon
a rocky hill, in a small hollow, surrounded by an
amphitheatre of woody mountains. We proceed
from Sheikh-Amur to Gulnar, on the sea-side, a
distance of six hours for horses. At a short di-
stance from Sheikh- Amdr we remark several com-
fortable cottages, surrounded with patches of culti-
vation, and inclosures of palisades. These detached
habitations, so uncommon in Turkey, indicate a
degree of security which gives us a favourable opi-
nion of the Caramanian mountaineers, whom in-
deed we have found very hospitable and inoffensive.
The road is through the most beautiful mountain-
scenery. A woody valley between high rocks, with
a rivulet of clear water trickling through it, con-
ducted us into a district more open and level, but
at the same time more singularly wild, than any we
had yet seen ; for over the whole of it high perpen-
dicular rocks, of the most grotesque and varied
forms, stood up among the trees, resembling the
representations of rocks on Chinese earthenware.
From hence we passed along the dry bed of a tor-
rent, which served as a road, between high calca-
reous precipices, rising close to us on either side.
As we advanced, these rocks were fringed with ivy,
saxifrage, &c., and mixed with small groves of

1

114

Ch. 3.

evergreens: at the bottom, a clear stream ran along
a natural groove in the rock. The prospect soon
opened upon an extensive forest of oaks upon the
slope of the mountain, through which we at length
arrived at a pass between two summits, from whence
we beheld the sea with almost as much delight as the
soldiers of Xenophon, from the top of Mount The*
ches. The island of Cyprus appeared in the hori-
zon. We descended into the valley which borders
the coast, by a long and extremely steep and rugged
mountain-path, often intersected by rivulets run-
ning in ravines, shaded by plane-trees. The valley
presented a prospect very different from those we
had passed. Its meadows and cultivated fields
were in all the luxuriant vegetation and brilliant
colours of an advanced spring. Among them were
dispersed some cottages, with flat roofs and open
galleries, like those of the interior country. In
descending the mountain we followed the remains
of an ancient aqueduct, and, as we approached the
coast, traced it again leading towards the ruins
which occupy the cape forming the bay of Celen-
deris. The road through the valley led along the
beds of torrents adorned with oleander and agnus
castus, and through groves of myrtle, bay, and
other shrubs, produced only in the softer climate
of the coast. The ruins, the beautiful curve of the
bay, and the distant sea-view on the one side, and
on the other the rich valley, contrasted with the

Ch.3.

115

steep mountains and dark woods behind^ form a
picture, the beauty of which was greatly heightened
by the brightness of the weather.

Gulnar is the name applied by the Turks, and
Kel^nderi by the Greeks^ to a harbour and sur-
rounding district, in which, with the exception of the
dispersed cottages already mentioned, the only ha-
bitations are the tombs and subterraneous vaults of
the ancient Celenderis; several of the latter were oc-
cupied by poor Turkish families. Our lodging was
a brick vault, with a stone pavement, which seemed
once to have been a cistern; a low arch divided it
into two equal parts. The outer was without a
roof, but the inner furnished a dry and comfortable
apartment. The remains of Celenderis are of va-
rious dates, but none of them, unless it be some
sepulchres excavated in the rock, appear to be older
than the early periods of the empire of Rome ; and
there are some even of a late date in that of Con-
stantinople. The town occupied all the space ad-
jacent to the inner part of the bay, together with
the whole of the projecting cape. The best pre-
served remains of antiquity are, a square tower
upon the extremity of the cape, and a monument
of white marble among the tombs ; the latter is
formed of four open arches, supported upon pilas-
ters of the Corinthian order, of not very finished
v^'orkmanship; and the whole is surmounted with a
pyramid, the apex of which has fallen. * I observed
I 2

116

Ch. 3.

some handsome tessellated pavements among the
ruins, and a great number of sarcophagi, together
with fragments of columns and wrought stones.

Gilenderis, although it now preserves the re-
mains oidy of a Roman town, seems in more ancient
times to have been the principal place in this part
of the country. It gave name to a region called
Gdenderitis, and coined those silver tetradrachms
which supply some of the earliest and finest speci-
mens of the numismatic art. The antiquity of the
city is proved by the tradition of its having been
founded by Sandocus, son of Phaethon *, and like
the neighbouring Nagidus, it received a colony
from the island of Samus f. It is situated about
the centre of the coast of Cilicia Tracheia.

As this province extended to the boundaries of
Tarsus on the east, of Coracesium on the west,
and of Luranda on the north j;, it seems to have
corresponded exactly to the Turkish ' province of
Itshili. The most fertile and the only extensive
level in Tracheiotis is the valley of the Calycadnus,
a district which was sometimes called Citis^. This
river, which rises to the north-west, passes by Er-
men^k, Sinanli, Mout, and Selefke, and joins the
sea not far below the last of these modern places.
Olbasa being the only city mentioned in the inland

• Apollodorus, 1. .3. c 4. t Pomp. Mela, I. l .c. 13.

J Strabo, p. 668.

§ Basil of Seleucia,! c the Life of Tliecla.

Ch. 3.

117

part of Citis by Ptolemy*, and Claudiopolis by
Amniianus t> ' it is not improbable that Olbasa
may have changed its name to Claudiopolis, when
a Roman colony was established there by the Em>
peror Claudius, and that its situation may have been
at Mout. The extent and description of the remains
of antiquity at that place are highly favourable to
the supposition of its being the site of a city which
flourished under the Roman Empire, at the same
time that the vicinity of this part of Taurus to the
plains which contain Derbe and Laranda is in agree-
ment with the evidence of Ptolemy:^: as to the posi-
tion of Olbasa; for he states the district of Antio-
chiana to have consisted of the townships of Laranda,
Derbe, Olbasa, and a fourth town which he calls Mus-
banda. If the Roman colony at Mout was entirely
a new foundation, perhaps it will be found that Ol-
basa was at Mahile. Philadelphia and Diocassareia,
which were also in this part of the country, may have
been the one at Ermen^k, and the other at the ruins
already mentioned between Mout and Selefke.

Feb. 0. — Nothing can more strongly show the
present desolation of these fine countries, than the
fact, that as we descended the hills yesterday, to-
wards the coast, only one vessel was visible in the

* Ptolem. 1. 5. c. 8.

t Clnudio|X)lis, quam dedux coloniam Claudius Ctesar,
Animwn. I. hi. r. 2;).

I rtolcin, 1. .i. c. 6.

118

Ch. 8.

vast extent of sea then open to our view. It prov^
to be the boat which was to carry us across to Cy-
prus, and in which we embarked this evening,
having delayed until that time, in the hope of pro-
fiting about midnight by the land-breeze from the
mountains, which seldom fails when the weather
is fair.

Feb. 10. — ^The land-breeze carries us half across
the channel, and then leaves us to be tossed all day
by the swell in a calm.

Feb. 11. — We land this forenoon at Tzerina,
called by the Italians Cerina, and by the Turks
Ghirne. It is a small town with a Venetian for-
tification, and a bad port on the northern coast of
Cyprus; it is reckoned by the Greek sailors to be
eighty miles from Kel^nderi, but is probably less than
sixty English. The town is situated amidst plan-
tations of oranges, lemons, olives, dates, and other
fruit-trees; and all the uncultivated parts of the
plains around are covered with bay, myrtle, and
lentisk. On the west side of the town are exten-
sive quarries, among which are some catacombs,
the only remains of the ancient Ceryneia. The
harbour, bad and small as it is, must, upon a coast
very deficient in maritime shelter, have always en-
sured to the position a certain degree of importance.
The natural formation of the eastern part of the
north side of Cyprus is very singular: it consists
of a high rugged ridge of steep rocks, running in a

Ch. 3.

119

straight line horn east to west, which descend
abruptly on the south side into the great plain of
Lefkosia, and terminate to the north in a narrow
plain bordering the coast. Upon several of the
rocky summits of the ridge are castles which seem
almost inaccessible. The slope and maritime plain
at the foot of the rocks, on the north, possess the
finest soil and climate, with a plentiful supply of
water; it is one of the most beautiful and best
cultivated districts I have seen in Turkey.

Feb. 12.-— Finding it impossible to procure horses
in time to enable us to reach the gates of Lefkosia
before sunset, at which time they are shut, we are
under the necessity of remaining at Tzerina to-day.

I visit a large ruined monastery, in a delightful si-
tuation, not far to the eastward of Tzerina, at no
great distance from the sea. It contains the re-
mains of a handsome Gothic chapel and hall, and
bears a great resemblance to the ruins of an En-
glish abbey*.

Feb. 13; — ^From Tzerina to Lefkosia, six hours.
At the back of Tzerina the road passes through a
natural opening in the great wall of rock 1 have
already described, and descends into the extensive
plain of Lefkosia. This is in some places rocky
and barren, and is little cultivated even where the
soil is good. Like most of the plains of Greece,

* It was founded by Hugh Lusignan the Third : for a descrip-
tion of it see the work of Mariti, who visited Cyprus in 1762.

120

Ch. 3.

it is marshy in the winter and spring, ^imd unhealtl^
in the summer. On the west and south are the|
mountains which occupy all that part of the islahi^
and the slopes of which produce the wines exportfw
in so large a quantity from Cyprus to all |m
neighbouring coasts. In the centre of the plain is
Lefkosia (A^uxocr/a), called Nicosia by the Italians,
the capital of the island and of the province of
Itshili, of which Cyprus is considered a part, though
thegovernment is now always admini8fered,like that
-of the other Greek islands, by a deputy of tbeCapuddn
Pasha. The ramparts of the Venetian fortifications
of Lefkosia exist in tolerable preservation; but the
ditch is filled up, and there is no appearance of
there ever having been a covert way. There are
thirteen bastions: the ramparts are lofty and solid,
with orillons and retired flanks. In the town is a
large church converted into a mosque, and still
bearing, like the great mosque at Constantinople,
the Greek name of St. Sophia: it is skid to have
been built by Justinian; but this may be doubted,
as Procopius, in his work on the edifices of that em-
peror, makes no mention of it; and its Gothic style
seems rather to mark it for the work of one of the
Frank kings of Cyprus. The flat roofs, trellised
windows, and light balconies of the better order of
houses, situated as they are in the midst of gardens
of oranges and lemons, give, together with the for-
tilicatious, a respectable and picturesque appear-

Ch. 3.

121

ance to Lefkasfa at a little distance, but, upon
entering it, the narrow dirty streets, and miserable
habitations of the lower classes, make a very diife*
rent impression upon the traveller; and the sickly
.Countenances of the inhabitants sufficiently show
' the unhealthiness of the climate. At Lefkosia we
were very hospitably entertained by an Armenian
merchant, of the name of Sarkis, who is an English
baratli, and under that protection has amassed a
considerable property, and lives in splendour: he
and his relations seem to occupy all the principal
offices of the island held by Christians, such as
those of interpreter and banker to the Motselim,
or deputy of the Capuddn Pasha, of collector of
the contributions of the Christians, of head of the
Christian community, &c.

Feb. 14. — From Lefkosia to Ldrnaka, eight
hours. The first half of the distance was a con-
tinuation of the same plain as before; the remain-
der lay over rugged hills of soft limestone, among
which we cross some long ridges of selenite. At
Larnaka we found Sir Sidney Smith with his small
squadron: he had just signed a treaty for the eva-
cuation of Egypt by the French.

Feb. 15. — We pass the day on board the Tigre,
where we find General Junot, afterwards Duke of
Abrantes, and Madame Junot and General Dupuy:
the latter, next to Kleber, the senior general of the
army of Egypt. They were taken by the Theseus,

122 Ch.3.

Captain Styles, in attempting from Alex-

andria.

The town of Ldrnaka stands at the distance of«a
mile from the shore, and has a quarter on the sea-
side, called ’AXixa/; by. the Greeks, and Marinajb^
the Italians. In the intermediate space are many’
foundations of ancient walls, and other remains,
among the gardens and inclosures.' The stones
are removed for building materials as quickly as
they are cUscovered; but the great extent of these
vestiges, and the numerous antiquities which at
different times have been found here*, seem to
leave little doubt that here stood Citium, the
most ancient and important city in this part of
Cyprus.

March 2. — ^After having remained several days
at Ldrnaka and Lefkosia, we arrive to-day at Tze-
rina, on our return to Constantinople. The purity
of the air on the north coast of Cyprus is very sen-
sibly perceived, after leaving the interior plains and
the unhealthy situation of Ldrnaka. The Turkish
troops are already arriving in large bodies, on their
way home, in the faith that the war of Egypt is
concluded.

We set sail at eight this morning, in a three-
masted covered vessel, with latine siuls, for Addlia.
A halo round the moon last night, and a turbid
atmosphere this morning, portend a change of
' * See Mnriti, Drummond, and Pococke.

Ch. 3.

123

weather. At^tw^ or three miles firom the port,
the land-wind which carried us out, falls and leaves
us becalmed, but a breeze soon springs up from
the eastward, and we steer N. by W. Having
come in sight of the coast, we soon perceive the
point of Anamdr, five or six leagues to leeward of
us. As we approach the shore, the wind coming
from the westward, and freshening, we are unable
to weather Cape Selenti, and are obliged to make
for a small cove, called Kaldndra by the Turks,
and Khdradra (its ancient name) by the Greeks.
Here we are sheltered under the lee of a high cape,
and by the help of six cables, three attached to the
anchors, and three to the shore, we ride out a most
tempestuous night of wind, rain, and thunder.

March 8. — At ten this forenoon, the weather
having become serene, we land and spend the day
at some huts on the sea-shore, belonging to a vil-
lage on the hills which we do not see. Here the
coast, retiring front the cape under which we were
sheltered last night, forms a small bay; around it
is a fertile valley; at the head of which a torrent,
making its way from high mountains *, between
lofty precipices, seems to have given to this place
its Greek name of Khdradra. The retired valley,
with the bold coast, and the woods and precipices
at the back, is extremely beautiful. The only re-

* This is the Mount Andriclus which Strabo places above
Charadrus.

124

Ch. 3.

mains of antiquity are part of a mole, just below
the huts on the sea-shore. On the side of the tor-
rent, a mile up the valley, is a deserted building,
which has every appearance of Venetian or Genoese
construction. Khdradra is reckoned by our boat-
men ninety miles from Tzerina, twenty or thirty
from Cape Selentl, and sixty from Aldya. It has
been already remarked that they reckon eighty
from Keldnderi to Tzerina. Comparing these com-
puted distances with the real distances on the map,
it appears that the Greek mile is about two-thirds
of the geographical. As the word filh was bor-
rowed from the Latin, the measure must originally
have been the same as the Roman mile, though it
is now shorter. It is, however, merely a computed
and not a measured distance, and I could never ob- >
tain from the Greeks any accurate definition of it.

March 9. — We sail this forenoon at ten with a
fair breeze, which in two hours brings us abreait
of Cap<^ Selenti. Here the wind slackens, and b<Sl.*
comes variable, and sometimes contrary with fre-
quent showers and calms, so that we do not arrive
at Aldya till eight in the evening. During the first
half of the distance from Cape Selenti, we sail
under high cliffs and headlands, beyond which
are some very lofty mountains covered with sU^.
Further on, the mountains retire more inland, knji:
leave upon the coast a fertile plain, which increasq|f
in breadth as we approach Aldya. ;

Ch. 3.

125

March 10. — ^This town is situated upon a rocky
hill, jutting into the sea from the outer or western*
most angle of the plain. It resembles Gibraltar, the
hill being naturally fortified on one side (the western)
by perpendicular cliffs of vast height, and falling in
the opposite direction by a very steep slope to the
sea. Tlie whole face of the hill is surrounded by
high solid walls* and towers, but the lower part
only is occupied by the town, which is about a
mile in circumference. The ground upon which
it stands is in some parts so steep that the houses
rise above one another in terraces, so that the flat
roofs of one row of houses serve for a street to
those above them. To the eastward of the town
there is an anchorage for large ships, and small
vessels are drawn up on the beach. In the middle
of the sea-front are some large vaulted structures,
on a level with the water’s edge, intended for shel-
tering galleys; and constructed, perhaps, by the
Genoese. They now serve for building the vessels,
called by the Turks Ghirlanghitsh (swallow), which
are"”^nerally formed with three masts and a bolt-
sprit, all bearing triangular sails. Of these and
other vessels nearly resembling them, of from
twenty to sixty tons burthen, there are several be-
loi | |jng to Aldya. The place is said tohave taken
its* name from its founder Alah-ed-din, son of Kai-

• In some parte of the modern wall arc remains of Hellenic
‘masonry, of the kin(^oflen called Cyclopian.

126

Ch.3.

kosru, who was surnamed Kaikobad, and who was
the tenth of the Seljukian dynasty, and the foundev
of the Iconian race. It seems to have become the
principal maritime fortress and naval arsenal
these sovereigns, and of their successors the princes
of Karamdn. In the old maps Aldya -is called
Castel Ubaldo, which may possibly have been the
name given to it by the Venetians or Genoese^
when in possession of this and other strong holds,
upon the Caramanian coast, but there* is no recol-
lection of the name in this country at present. Ih
the year 1471 the Prince of Karamdn, then engaged
in a struggle for independence with Mahomet the
Second, was put in possession of Aldya, and several
other places, by the Venetians, who were then in al-
liance with him as well as with Usum Kassan King
of Persia against the Ottoman Emperor *. From. *1
the town, the beach runs eastward, and thence forms
a long sweep to the south>east to Cape Seletiti, which,
is seen from Aldya. The level coast extends about
half that distance, and ends in an angle, wberw,^
some trees are seen round a village, at which I wt^
informed there are remains of an ancient
There are other ruins said to be of great ex|iHit aV
a few hours to the northward of Aliya.

* Josaphat Barbara^ who was sent by the Venetian gd^lrern-
ment into Persia, and who published a description of his jotn^
ney, assisted at the capture of Corycus and Seleuceia by a
squadron under Pietro Mocenigo. The work of Barbaro was^
printed at the Aldine press in 1543.

Ch. 3.

127

1 was detained at Aldya by illness and while
General Koehler, with his two remaining compa-
nions, (Mr. Carlyle having left them in Cyprus,)
pursued their journey overland to Constantinople,
1 proceeded thither by sea, visiting the most
remarkable places on the coast, as well as the
adjacent islands of Rhodus, Cos, Patmus, Samus,
Chius, Lesbus, and Tenedus. Of those places which
1 visited on the coast, and which deserve to be
more thoroughly described than they have yet been,
the most remarkable are, 1. The ruins of a large
city, with a noble theatre, at Kdkava, in a fine
harbour, formed by a range of rocky islands.
2. The island called Koss’rsXo^^ov by the Greeks,
and Castel Rosso by the Italians. It is a flourish-
ing little Greek town, carrying on a considerable
* commerce of timber and charcoal with Egypt. In
a plain in the interior of the island, I found the
remains of some ancient buildings, of Hellenic con-
struction. The importance of the situation must
at all times have attracted inhabitants. 3. Anti-
phellus, on the main land, opposite to Castel Rosso.

I found a small theatre nearly complete, the
reniyi|B of several public buildings and private
houses, together with catacombs, and a great num-
ber of sarcophagi, some of which are very large
and magnificent. The greater part have inscrip-
tions, few of which are legible. In two or three,
however, I read the name of the city Antiphellus.

4. Telmissus, at Mei, the port of Mdkri, at the
bottom of the gulf anciently called Glaucus. llie
theatre, and the porticoes and sepulchral chambers,
excavated in the rocks at this place, are some of the
most remarkable remains of antiquity in Asia Minor;

5. The ruins of Assus, at Behr^m or Beridtn Kalesi,
opposite to M61ivo (the ancient Methymna), in
Mytilene. The ruins are extremely curious. There
is a theatre in very perfect preservation; and the
remains of several temples lying in confused heaps
upon the ground; an inscription upon an architrave
belonging to one of these buildings shows that it
was dedicated to Augustus; but some figures in
low relief on another architrave, appear to be in a
much more ancient style of art, and they are sculp-
tured upon the hard granite of mount Ida, which
forms the materials of several of the buildings *. On
the western side of the city the remains of the walls
and towers, with a gate, are in complete' preserva-
tion; and without the walls is seen the. cemetery,
with numerous sarcophagi still standing in their .
places, and an ancient causeway leading through
them to the gate. Some of these sarcophagi are

* The following words are distinguished upon one of the
architraves .... lEPETS TOT AIDS . . . KAISAPl SEBA-
STAI. On another architrave is recorded the name of a per-
son who had bequeathed land for restoring the city, and from
the profits of which the temple had been rebuilt. ’Ex r^s
vgtiriiou rtuY ayfcvr, tSr driXiittv f'lf imoTUOijY KOf^exf
KXtcfr^ciTos viif vo^iuf, fiivei St TtWinoyrtf, iiremtvdfSp.

Ch. 3.

129

of giganUc dimensions. The whole gives, perhaps,
the most perfect idea of a Greek city that any
where exists. ‘

I shall now subjoin a brief itinerary of the
route of General Koehler and his party from
Aldya to Shughut, where he fell' into the same
road by which we came from Clonstantinople in
January.

March 1 1 . — ^From Aldya to A'lara, eight com*
puted or caravan hours. The road leads along the
sea-shore, sometimes just above the sea-beach,
upon high woody banks, connected on the right
with the great range of mountains which lies pa*
rallel to the coast; at others, across narrow fertile
valleys, included betw'een branches of the same
mountains. There are one or two fine harbours
formed by islands and projecting capes ; but the
coast for the most part is rocky and without shel-
ter, and after such a westerly gale as occurred last
night, is exposed to a tremendous surf. The equi-
noctial monsoon occurs very regularly upon these
coasts, and the Greek sailors think themselves suf-
ficiently prudent if they remain in port during the
first fortnight of March, old style. A'lara is two
or three miles from the sea, in a valley inclosed
between woody hills, and situated amidst gardens
and corn-fields, with neat fences. Near the village
is a remarkable conical bill, with the ruins of a
strong castle upon it in good preservation. It is

130 Ch. 3.

said by the natives to have been built by the SiiUan
Alid)>ed*din, of Iconium.

March 12. — From A'lara to Hadji«Ali Kidi«
eight hours. The road proceeded at a distance of
three or four miles from the sea, crossing several
fertile and well-cultivated valleys, and passing some
neat villages pleasantly situated. The valleys are
watered by streams coming from a range of lofty
mountains, appearing at a great distance on the
right. The largest of these rivers was a little be-
yond the fortified hill of A'lara, and was traversed
by a wooden bridge sixty feet in length. Another
large river occurred about three hours further. On
the west side of the gulf, a little to the left of the
direction of the route, appeared another range of
mountains *, still more lofty than those on the
right, and so distant that nothing but their outline
was visible. No remains of Grecian antiquity were
seen by the travellers either this day or -yesterday.

March 13. — From Hadji- AU Kidi to Menavgdt,
four hours: weather rainy. Crossed the large ri-
ver of Menavgdt at one hour short of the town,
which is situated in the midst of fields and gardens,
in a fertile district, watered by many rivulets. The
surrounding valleys are well cultivated and inha-
bited. Distant mountains appear to the north and
east; and to the N. W. is the steep range which
rises from that side of the gulf, and extends from
^ Mount SolymA;, then distant about sixty miles.

Ch. 3.

131

Cape Khelid^m to Admits. The price of a sheep
at Menavgdt is eight piastres, equal to twrive shil-
lings sterling; four fowls for a piastre.

March 14. — ^Detained at Menavgdt for want of
horses.

March 15. — From Menavgdt to Dashashdhr, six
hours. These two days were frosty, and perfectly
clear. The road passes at the same distance from
the sea as before, but winds for the most part
through deserted valleys, where the rich soil, and
the rains which had lately fallen, had made the
road very muddy. There was seen -abundance
of the cattle which is brought for pasture in the
winter and spring from the mountainous districts
of the interior; at intervals are several villages,
with a scanty cultivation around them. Dashashdhr
is situated upon some rocky hills, commanding'a
view of the sea; and the cottages have gardens,
and orchards, and plantations of vines and fig-trees
attached to them. The great range of mountains is
seen at a distance of twenty or thirty miles to the
northward. The whole of this part of Pamphylia
seems to be a succession of fine valleys, separated
by ridges branching from the mountains, and each
watered by a stream of greater or less magnitude.

March 16. — From Dashashdhr to Stavros, six
hours, through a vast plain of the richest pasture,
in which were great numbers of oxen and sheep.
At the end of two or three hours was a large river,

k2

132 Gh..a.

crossed by a bridge built upon the ruins of a
magnificent ancient bridge, one arch pf which,
still standing, forms a part of the modern work.
Several other smaller streams were passed in the
course of the day. In the last half of the road
the late rains had inundated the plains in several
places. The villages are numerous, and the po>
pulation consists entirely of Turks, who are hoS'
pitable and inoffensive.

March 17. — From Stavros to Addlia, six hours.
The first half over the same kind of road, inun-
dated in many places. At the end of two hours
a large and rapid stream was passed by a ferry, a
little beyond which, appeared on the left the ruins
called by the Turks Eski-Kalesi, where are great
remains of walls and vaulted buildings. The road
passes from thence over a more elevated level, with
a dry soil, nearly as far as the walls of Addlia, at
one hour short of which it crosses a very deep and
rapid stream*, dividing itself into seveml branches,

* In passing by sea from Al&ya to Castel Rosso, I was obliged
to follow the coast of the gnlf of Ad&lia, the sailors being
afraid, in this season, of crossing directly to Cape Kheliddni.
Tnis practice has been common among the Greek seamen 'of
every age, and was anciently expressed by the word xorsc-
xsXvi'^w. After having been detained three days in the mouth
of a river, to the westward of Menavg&t, I passed within sight
of the mouth of the river Duddn, not &r to the eastward of
AdAlia, and I observed that it discharged itself into the sot by
a perpendicular fall over a high cliff. This singularity accountt
for the name Catarrhactes, anciently given to it.

from which there ifre artificial derivations for im>
gating the gardens and cultivated fields around
Addlia. Besides the two principal streams just
mentioned, the road from Stdvros crossed several
smaller, particularly one between those two, the
banks of which are thickly sheltered with trees, and
where is a solid ancient bridge, its summit level
with the banks. Ad^Iia is a large and populous
town, which, though governed only by a Motsel-
lim, is considered as one of the best governments
in Anatolia, the district being large and fertile, and
the maritime commerce extensive. The town is
situated around a circular port; behind it, on a
height, is a castle, built with battlements and
square towers. In the suburbs, the houses are
dispersed amidst orange groves and gardens, apd
thus occupy a large space of ground. Granite co-
lumns, and a great variety of fragments of ancient
sculpture, found about the place, attest its former
importance as a Greek city. Among other remains
are those of an aqueduct, extending the whole
length of the suburbs, but now quite ruined and
overgrown 'with bushes. These different objects,
with the sea, and the stupendous ridge of rugged
mountains on the west side of the gulf, render the
place extremely picturesque.

March 18.— Halt at Addlia.

March 19. — From Addlia to Bidjikli, seven
hours, due north. The road passes over a region

134

Ch.3.

of rugged rocks,; intersected with hollows full of
water; No cultivation was in sight ; to the left the
same kind of ground seemed to extend as far as the
ridge of rocky mountains, which bordo^ the west
side of the gulf, and to the right as far as the
Dod4n, or river of Addlia. '

March 20. — From Bidjikli to Karabundr Kitii,
nine hours: the first two hours over the same
rugged plain not far from the river. The two great
ranges on the west and north of the ‘plains of Add*
lia now approach each other, and at length are only
divided by the passes, through which the river finds
its way. The road, however, leaves this gorge to
the right, and ascends the mountain by a paved
winding causeway, a work of great labour and in-
genuity. At the foot of it, in the plain, are the
ruins of a castle, and of many towers and gateways
of elegant architecture, with cornices, capitals, and
fluted columns lying upon the ground. Sarcophagi,
with their covers beside them, are se»n in great
numbers, as well in the plain as for a considerable
distance up the side of the hill. Some of them
were of large size, many with inscriptions. At tbe .
top of this formidable pass, which was anciently
commanded by the city, standing at the foot of it,
the road enters an elevated level surrounded mth
mountains, and proceeds along a winding valley
amidst rocks and precipices, some of which, being
quite detached and perpendicular, appear at a di-

Ch. 3.

135

stance like castles and towers. The konik this
evening was a tchiftlik (farm and country-house)
of the Motsellim of Addlia, situated near three
small villages on the banks of a rivulet, in a pure
air and most romantic situation. The usual
spring weather of these climates has now pre-
vailed for some days; showers, often accompa-
nied with thunder, occur in the afternoon and
in the early part of the night, and during the re-
mainder of the day the sky is perfectly clear and
serene.

March 2 1 . — ^From Karabundr Kiui toTshdltigtshi
Kidi, five hours and a half. One hour from the
place of departure is a khan, formed out of the
remains of an old building, upon which are angels
sculptured on either side of a large arched gate.
It appears to have been a church of the earliest
ages of Christianity. The route continues through
valleys of the same description as that of Kara-
bundr Kidi, level and surrounded' by barren rocks
and mountains. A neighbouring town called But-
shuklu, is said to contain a thousand houses, and
has the reputation of refusing quarters to strangers,
especially to couriers and persons travelling under
the orders of the Porte. This district, however, as
has already been remarked in regard to other places
having the character of rebellious, exhibits several
marks of superior industry, and a better kind of
public economy; good roads and bridges are seen.

136

Ch.S>

and large clean- pieces of wheat surrouncfed mith
ditches or fences. In the mountain not far front But^
shuklu there are said to be ruins of ancient build*
lugs with columns, and sculptured and inscribed
stones. A hill which bounds the district of But*'
shuklu to the north limits the command of theMot-
sellim of Addlia. At the foot of this hill is a khan;
which appears to have been constructed from the
ruins of some large ancient building ; fragments
of architecture, and ruins of walls,' are seen on
every side of it. The hill is rugged and exten-
sive, and has on the north side a level much
lower than all those lying between it and Adilia.
A river flows through this plain, and there are
many villages, among which is that of Tshditigtshi.
The people appeared simple and hospitable, and
welcomed the travellers by presents of fruit and
flowers, which they threw down at their feet, and
then departed without saying a word. The villages
are surrounded with fruit-trees, but ho oranges,
nor lemons, nor olives are seen among them ; and
the season here is a month or six weeks behind that
of Addlia. Wheel-carriages are used : the wheels
being either solid trucks formed of one piece of
wood, or of three pieces joined together, and shod
with an iron plate turned up at the edges, and thus
fixed on without any nails. They had also iron axles,
and a box for them to turn in, exhibiting a neatnete
of workmanship seldom seen in Turkey.

Ch. 3. 137

March 22.~Froni Tch^ltigtsbi to'Bnrduri seven
hours and a half; for the first two hours along the
valley^; then up a high steep mountain, not a mere
rock, like the others which the travellers hod passed,
but having trees, and a soil fit for any vegetation.
They passed an insulated valley, where was a rivulet
which disappeared in a cavity at the foot of a moUn>
tain. The weather was very cold, and four inches
of snow lay upon the ground at no great distance
above thein. After a narrow craggy pass, they
entered an open country, which, unlike the level
valleys to the southward, was diversified with un>
dulations and slopes. At two hours short of Bur>
dur, they came into a valley full of rocks, thrown
about in the wildest manner : some of these were
of a kind which looked like bundles of rushes, in-
crusted with cement, and petrified into a solid
mass: in some places the scene around had the
appearance of a succession of enormous sand-pits.
They passed several vi'ater-mills, and saw nothing
of the town or lake of Burdur until they were close
upon it. The houses are fiat-roofed ; the town is
large, and comparatively well paved, and there is
some appearance of wealth and industry in the
streets. Tanning and dyeing of leather, weaving
and bleaching of linen, seemed to be the chief oc-
cupations. Streams of dear water flow through
most of the streets. The country around produces
good butter. The salt lake of Burdur be^ns at a

138

Ch. 3.

very short distance from the town, and stretches to
the N. and N.W., forming a beautiful picture wdUt
its winding shores, its shrubby or bare and rocky
capes, and the cultivated lands, numerous villagesi
and woody hills around it.

March 23. — Detained at Burdur by a violent
southerly gale and heavy rain.

March 24. — From Burdur to Ketsiburlu, six
hours. The road along the edge of the lake hav->
ing been rendered difficult by the rains, they took
another nearer the hills. They passed a good deal
of arable land, and many villages with abundance of
fruit-trees and vineyards. The walnut-trees grow to
a great size: on the 22nd they had seen poplars also
of not less than six and eight feet in diameter.

March 25. — From Ketsiburlu to Dombai-6vasi
(the valley of Dombai) five hours: the wind north:
a sharp frost, and the hills around covered with
snow : the road very good, leading at first through
rocky hills, but afterwards through a vrich valley,
where are many villages ; Dombai is the chief and
one of the largest. Here they received much ci-
vility from the Motsellim, whose design in it was
to get their interest at the Porte in his endeavours
to obtain the Pashalik of Isb4rta, a considerable
town at no great distance to the eastward. At
Dombai they were told of the ruins of an ancient
town very near, with the remains of columns, in-
scribed stones, and statues.

Ch. 3.

130

March 26. — From Dombai to Sandukli on the
river M^ndere, the distance seven hours, through
a fine country variegated with gentle undulations,
but bare of wood, except upon the mountains,
which are at no great distance on either side.
There were several small villages and a good deal
of arable land, but the season was still six weeks
behind that of the coast: the cold severe' with much
snow.

March ‘ 17 . — From Sandukli to Sitshanli, seven
hours : a north wind, with ice an inch thick : the
road was for the most part hilly and stony, but in
some places there were villages and cultivated lands.
Sitshanli is in a fertile valley, with many villages
around.

March 28, — From Sitshanli to Altdn-Tash, nine
hours : thecountryis of an undulated form with little
wood. They observed several villages, and in many
places scattered fragments of ancient buildings,
but in no one spot any thing that indicated the site
of a large town. • At Altdn>Tash the snow was
lying on the ground. The place takes its name
(signifying golden stone) from some rocks of a
yellow colour in the neighbourhood. It stands on
the left bank of the river Pursek, the ancient Thym-
brius, or Thymbres, a branch of the Sangarius.
Here were 200 horsemen of the Pasha of Kutdya,
who had been reducing a rebellious chieftain, and
were in the act of driving away his flocks.

March 29 .-^Froin AItdti>Tash to Kutiyaj liine
hours : at first over a swampy plain, whiOh fat^
been inundated by the rains and the melting (if the
snow upon the hills, then across the Pursek, which
between this place and Kntdya forms an S: a high
mountain, at the foot of which Kutdya is situated,
filling up the northern part of the S. After crossing
the Pursek at Altdn>Tash, they passed over gentle
hills and a pleasant country. Nearly midway were a
fountain, the ruins of a mosque, and an’ancient Greek
church. A good gravel road led in a winding direc*
tion through a delightful scene of lawns of the finest
herbage, adorned with detached trees and clumps
of evergreen, disposed in a manner which art could
not have improved. From hence, after passing a
tract of wild cliffs and rocks, which formed a re-
markable contrast to the former, they descended a
steep hill to the Pursek, here a very deep and
rapid river. Having crossed it by a bridge, and
ascended a part of the mountain of I&itiya, they
proceeded along a dangerous path on the edge of
an immense precipice: the mountain, with its snow-
topped summit, rising to a great height on the left,
and on the right the Pursek taking a large sweep
round the base of the mountain. Thus they made
almost half the circuit of it before they arrived'at
Kutdya. 'Hiis is a large town with an ancient
castle, which stuids upon a projecting' poiht of
the hill rising above the town. Being the 'us.oal

Ch. 3. 141

residence of. t the Beg;lerbeg of Anatolia, Kutdya
may in some measure be considered the capital of
the province, though much inferior in size to
Smyrna, Tokdt, and A'ngura. The Pasha being
absent with the array in Syria, the place was go-
verned by a Motsellim, who furnished the travellers
with a tchaous to accompany them to Constanti*
nople, and orders for horses and other necessaries.
Ancient coins and gems may be collected in the
bazars of Kutdya in considerable numbers.

March 30. — Halt at Kutdya.

March 31. — ^From Kutdya to In-6ghi, twelve
hours: the weather fine, and the road for the most
part good. Tliey soon crossed the Pursek, and
passed at first over a flat swampy road, inundated
by floods from the mountains; they then ascended
a hill, upon the top of which the rocks appeared to
be of a hard and handsome kind of breccia. Thus
they proceeded nearly half the day’s journey: .the
scenery sometimes very dreary and barren ; at others
grand and picturesque; but the country no where
cultivated. They then descended a steep slope to
the Pursek, which they now crossed for the second
time since they had left Kutdya, and proceeded
for some distance along its left bank with high
steep cliffs on each side; among these, and along
the river, grow a variety of trees and shrubs, par-
ticularly evergreen^. In one part conical and
sharp'p^ointed rocks arise to a great height, re-

142

C%. 3.

sembling in some places the spires and ornamented
sides of Grothic churches. Here the ancients had
excavated crypts, niches, and sepulchral chi^plbiers
with doors and windows. After the pass the valley
opens into fine meadows, with the river winding
through the middle. Soon afterwards the road
quits this valley and turns to the right up an-
other, watered by a small branch of the same
river; the route then passes through a tract of
country where it winds amidst clumps of ever-
greens beautifully disposed by nature upon a fine
turf, with hills, valleys, and lawns, as in an English
park. Here they met a company of Turks coursing
with their greyhounds, who made them a present
of a hare. They then crossed a ridge, the absolute
height of which (though apparently inconsiderable,
when compared with the adjacent valleys) was in-
dicated by large patches of snow lying upon the
ground. The country consists of fine pasture-lands,
mixed with good timber-trees. On a k>ng descent
from this place they looked down upon an exten-
sive and well cultivated plain, and at the foot of
the descent they arrived at In-6ghi, a large village
situated on the edge of the plains under the vast
precipices of a mountain of bare rock, excavated
naturally into caverns, and artificially into sepul-
chral chambers. Some of those in the upper
part of the heights are the abode of eagles, which
are seen soaring around them in great numbers.

143

Ch. 3.

One enofmpus cavern is shut up in front by
a wall with battlements and towers, and seems
onc^l^ have served as a sort of citadel to the
town.

April 1.— From In-6ghi to Shughut, five hours:
the weather very clear. The road passes over plea-
sant hills and dales, where appears a considerable
degree of cultivation. The country is interspersed
with fine oaks and beeches, and in one place there
is a large forest. Some symptoms of spring have
begun to appear, but the season is not yet so forward
as it was upon the south coast in the beginning of
February. Not a tree has begun to bud : the corn
is but just above the ground; and primroses, vio-
lets, and crocuses, are the only flowers to be seen.
At Shughut the appearance was more wintry than
when we passed in January; and the broad suni-
niit of Olympus was capped with snow to a much
greater extent.

CHAPTER IV.

OF THE ANCIENT PLACES ON THE ROAD FROM
ADALIA TO SHUGHUT, INCLUDING REMARKS
ON THE COMPARATIVE GEOGRAPHY OF THE
ADJACENT COUNTRY.

Ancient Authoritiea^Cotyaeium-^Termeaus — Lake Ascanic^
Milyas — Ctkyra — Selge — Petnelissus — Crptopolig — Lyrbe^
Sagalassus — Cremna — Lysinoe — Sinda — Isionda — Taba,
Tiaba — Mender-su at Sandukli the ancient Obrimas — Ancient
Sites on the four Roads of the Table, which cross the modern
Route from Addlia to Shughut — Themisonium—Cormasor^
CekencB or Apameui'^Eumeneia — Apollonia — Euphorbium —
Conni — Eucarpia — Acmonia — Cadi — Azani — Synaus,

I SHALL now submit to the reader some observa-
tions on the ancient geography of the route of
General Koehler and bis party from Addlia to
Shughut.

This road traverses a part of Asia Minor upon
which ancient history throws little light. The text
of Strabo is almost contradictory in regard to some
of the principal places which lay near the road ;
and the itineraries supply no routes in this direc-
tion, though there are five in the Peutinger
Table which intersect it.

The inarch of Alexander from Pamphylia to Gor-
dium in Phrygia, as related by Arrian ; and the de-
scription by Livy of the progress of the Consul Cneius

145

Ch.

Expedition from Cibyra into Pam-
phyli^'^roppom thence by Sagalassus to Syn<
nadMnpjlWb Galatia, are the only historical do-
cumera. As the passage of Livy is very detailed
and was borrowed from Polybius*, its information
deserves more confidence than is usually due to that
of a Latin author in regard to Grecian geography;
and it may hereafter be extremely useful, when the
ancient ruins, with which Pisidia and the adjacent
districts are known to abound, shalbhave been
more explored. In the present state of our know-
ledge of the country, it supplies not much positive
information.

The only point in General Koehler’s route which
can be considered absolutely certain is Cotyaeium.
The position of that city in Phrygia Epictetus, not
far from Nacolda, andDorylseumf* agrees perfectly
with that of Kutdya, the resemblance of which name
to the Greek Kortkiuoy is still more striking when
we observe the Identity of accent.

There are two other places also in General
Koehler’s route, upon the ancient names of which
we cannot entertain much doubt. These are Ter-
messus and the lake Ascania. The latter corre-

* This is evident upon comparing it with the fragments of the
22d book of Polybius, as well as from the confession of Livy
himself in several places.

t T^f S’ ’Eviw^ou tfuylccf ‘A^aro! re tin xai NoxsAsm
xal KtnMMv xal MiJ'dnoy x«) AopvXeuoy voXftg x«) KiSw nif
Si KiSovf lytii Mvvixf faWr. Strabo, p. 675;

1 .

\4Q 'iM 4.

spQ^s v^th the salt lake of

relates that Alexander, after having re^o^^pi||^p^T

sua and ^op^e other strong places in

by the lake Ascania in bU way to Celsense (aft(Sif’'i^^

Apanteia)* and that the water of this lal^wfissp

salt, that the inhabitants had no need of sea ^t

for domestic purposes *. The same fact is men*

tioned by the anonymous geographer of Ravenna.

Perhaps this is the lake Ascanius, of which Pliny

remarks, that the upper surface of the water was

fresh, while the lower was nitrous t*

The great ruins which General Koehler passed
through at the ascent of the mountains, on the
second day of his departure from Addlia, seem to
be those of Termessus, which, next to Selge, was
the largest of the Pisidian cities, and was situated at
the passes of mount Solyma, leading from the ma-
ritime plains through Milyas to the lake Ascania j!,

* Arrian, 1. 1 . e. 29. t Plin. Hist. Nat; 1. &1. c. 10.

t Arrian ubi supra.

MiXiof 1* sar)v ^ diei rdSv xeerd Ttpi^ijorvoy drevuy xa) si;
TO hrif no Tov^ou u^tpSio-eiuf St' omrmy Iri SiySa, vctpaTelyourct
ipur^ fuXfi 'Sa.yotKaa'voS xed f^s ‘Aitainitoy Strabo,

p. 631.

'ttipMirou S eatt^f (scil. Phaselidis) rd TdXujfM opts ho)
TipiMffnSf HmStmj ifd^St irixtipt/yTi itip vtwtis, St wy ovip-
Ceiois ^oriy eis fijy MtXvdS*. Strabo, p. 666.

In Arrian the names are Salagasaus and Telmissus, but im-
properly, as the coins of the two cities show. Stephaniu says
there was a greater and lesser Termissus in Pisidia, which is
confirmed by the coins with tiie legend, Ttpu^mtoy tmy pm-
t^oVwv. (Eckhel and Mionnct in Pisidia.)

ch.,-% w

and to Celeenae. Milyas' was the coutiv

tiy oPthe'ttidpe ancient Solymr • ; and being also
desCtl^Ild Strabo as the mountainons district,
which extended from the passes of Termessus to
the disti^t of Apameia, it answers exactly to the
elevated region which <jknerai Koehler traversed
after he had mounted the pass which I have sup-
posed the Termessian. -

Between Milyas and the valley of the Mseander
were Cabalis and the Cibyratis f . The latter district,
which long flourished under the monarchy of a
family named Moagetes;};, was a tetrapolis; the four
cities were, Cibyra, which had two votes in the ge-
neral council, CEnoanda, Balbura, and Bubon. The
Cibyratis is clearly indicated by Strabo to have
been situated between Lycia and the parts of the
valley of the Mseander about Nysa and Antiocheiaf^^;
in the height of its prosperity, its dependencies ex-
tended from Pisidia and Milyas to Lycia and Pereea

* Strabo, p. 573, 630.

t liJxP* T« f iar) r« /iii'

fuViv, ij riSy ’Avno^soay v6\is fuiy M MeudySpw, r^{ Kapietf ^Sij'
to. Se irpif yofoy ^ KiSupi eariy jiuyaXi), xa.) ^ ^iySa xed i] Ket-
CaXi;, roS Txipoa tcai r^s Auxixf. Strabo, p. 630.

.... T^f Nvvat^o;, ^ lav* xard rx row JdxixySpou vipxy

KiSvpxriSos ff/S KxCx^ltof. Strabo, p. 629.

t Strabo, p. 631. Liv; I. 38. c. 14.

i Compare the preceding passages of Strabo, pp. 629, 630;
with those of pp. 65 1 , 665, where he says that a branch of Taurus
occupied all Lycia, from the Cibyratis to Penea of the RbodH, and
that TIos a Lycian city stood near the pass leading tb Cibyra.

1 . 2

148

Ch. 4.

-i *■

of the Rhodii *. Balbura and Bubon having been
given to Lycia by Murena, on the reduction of , the
last Moagetes, and (Enoanda having been incllifded
in the same province, in the arrangement of Con-
stantinef, while Cibyra was ascribed to Caria, it
maybe presumed that Cibyra- lay to the northward
of the three other cities. This in some measure
agrees with Ptolemy, who places Bubon, CEnoanda,
and Balbura in a district of Lycia called Carbalia;
under this name, as a part of Pamphylia, he ranges
also Termessus, Cretopolis, and six other towns ;
Cibyra he places in Phrygia. Such are the data
afforded by ancient history, to assist the traveller
in discovering the sites of the four cities of the
Cibyratis.

Polybius 4^, in his account of the proceedings of
Achseus, king of the provinces within Taurus,
against Antiochus the Great has furnished a few
data as to the situation of some of the .towns on
the frontiers of Pisidia and Pamphylia. In relating
the operations of Garsyeris, commander of the army
of Acheeus, whose ostensible object was to assist the
people of Pednelissus against the Selgenses, Poly-
bius appears to apply the name of Climax to all
the ridge of the mountains Solyma, from the sum-
mit called Olympus on the shore of the Gulf of
Attaleia, to the great heights of Taurus. Garsyeris

* Strabo, p. 631. + Hierocl. Synecd.

I Pblyb. 1. 5. c. 72. § In the year before Christ 219.

Ch. 4.

149

was at first unable to penetrate through the passes
of Mount Climax, leading to Pednelissus, because
they were occupied by the Selgenses, and particu*
larly the pass of Saporda — a place not mentioned
by any other author. We know from Strabo*, that
Pednelissus was situated inland from Aspendus;
and it has been seen that the principal pass of the
Solyma was commanded by tbe city of Termessus:
Saporda, therefore, may perhaps have stood at
another pass which leads over the ridge of Solyma
from Addlia in a W. N.W. direction to Dauas and
Denizli. Cretopolis in Milyas, where Garsyeris
encamped before he attempted the passes, is shown
from this circumstance to have been on tbe west-
ern side of Mount Climax : and the Etennenses,
who, together with the Aspendii, joined the party
of Achaeus against Selge, are stated by the his-
torian to have inhabited tbe mountains above that
city, — ^being thus obviously the same people as the
Catennenses of Strabo f; wbo describes them as
bordering on Selge and the Homonadenses.

Lyrbe, which, as well as Etenna, was still a bi-
shopric in the ninth century;};, under the metropoli-

* Strabo, p. 667.

t ... o! ^fXyeTf thetp eWr oEfwXoywrart* rcSr UmiiSy, T»
ftEv our ie\iw aoTwr juepof tas dxfwptias TouTcaipm xar^ci* rivis
a ivfp xed 'Koviviw, %6Kem, xarij(fivn

ytuXt^a, j(fi>pM, IXouo^vra, teivtae rd f thrkp roiiraiy opnyd
KarsyygTf, ojMpot 'StkysSn xo) ’OittyttSsSarir Xaya^rnTf S' M
rd ivTOf rd tpif Mt\udSf. Strabo, p. 569.

Notit. Episc. Gnec.

160 Ch. 4.

tan of Side, seems, from some verses of IMonysiqs
of Cbarax *, to have stood between Termessos and
Selge, a little above the maritime pluns, among
hills once covered with olives, but now a£fording
little but pasture.

There is great difficulty in reconciling the autho-
rity of Arrian with that of Strabo in regard to the
site of Sagalassus, otherwise called Selgessusf, one
of the most important cities and most fertile districts
in Pisidia j;; and which could not have been far from
the route of General Koehler. Arrian, in a passage
already referred to, seems to place it to the south of
Burdur ^ ; thus far agreeing with Strabo, who, after
describing the cities on the southern side of Mount ,
Taurus, just noticed, remarks that Sagalassus was
wUfun, or on the northern side of Taurus, near
Milyas ||, which district, as he tells us in another
place, extended northward as far as those of Saga-
lassus and Apameia

Strabo further informs us **, that Sagi^assus was

* T»7{ y Sm nirtUm iroXijgf

TepfMO'cof AiSpCi) re xai ^ lirt^iVrecrt \»of
IJply ir«r' ’AjbbvxXcuW, jt/if/aAwivfibOf h xt$yi ScA/q.

Dionys. Perieg. v. 858.

t Strabo, p. 569.

X Artemidorus ap. Strabon. p. 570. l.iv. 1.38. c. 15. Arrian,

1. 1 . c. 28.

( Arrian, 1. 1 . c. 29. II See Note f, p. 149.

IT See Note t, p. 146.

** 'A [Myras voAXd xw/ila ivopSiffa tpittfn

Orta, m xal Kprj[i,Ya. to Si SavSaKioy oilf iyo^tlfifn /9(je Tpofi^

Ch. 4. 151

one day’s journey from Apameia ; whereas Arrian
relates that Alexander was five days in inarching
from Sagalassus to Celaense, passing by the lake
Ascania.

Nothing but an examination of this country
by an intelligent traveller can clear up this diffi*
.culty, or explain the passage of Strabo cited in
the note below ; and for this purpose the ruins
seen by Paul Lucas in this country, and the
others heard of by General Koehler, probably
contain ample materials. The «, Remarkable site
which gave name to Cremna * could hardly elude
research; and it is the more likely to preserve
some remains of antiquity, as having been a Ro-
man colony.

If by the lake, mentioned in the march of
Manlius, Polybius, from whom Livy has taken all
this part of his history, meant the lake of Burdur,
Lysinoe may have occupied the site of Burdur ; or
more probably some situation near the opposite end
of the lake, where the future traveller may perhaps
find the river Lyses, from which Lysinoe seems to

yevicu, f/ara^d xdittrty rt xa) SayaXaeeov, Tijy

f&Ev oSy KpijfAyetr mfoixoi 'PutiboiiiDy ixfivet. 'ZeeyaJMea'is f.ierT)y
uvo aut<p^»lMyi tuv'Puiutltuy, if’ ^ lui 'A|xuWov fian-
\tla •gaura: 9 ’Aga/Mlas ttafoXany Ixfiura

<rX$tiy ft xti rpuatayra ataSluy mli rov ififUvftS' xoAavvi f
avrijy xcu ’Sihyi^eo'ty. Strabo, p. 569.

* Kp^aiy Jv dmiif^ytu ft xtifurny xcA xa/fi

•xftpiSpMs fiaiurifcut Zbsim. 1. 1, c. (i9.

152

eh.i4i

have token its name. And this might also lead to
the discovery of the lake Caralitis and Sindat.

It is evident from the passage of livy just dted,
that Sinda and Isionda were different placto, and
not the same place as has sometimes been supposed.
Livy seems to agree with Strabo in placing Sinda
to the northward of Cibyra at the extremity of
sidia bordering on Caria and Phrygia; whereas

^ A Cibyra per agros Sindensium exercitus ductus^ trans-
gressusque Caularem amnezn, posuit castra. Postero die est
pneter Caralitin pakidem agmen ductum 5 ad Mandropolim
manserunt; inde progredientibus ad Lagon^ proximam urbem
metu incojl^ fugerunt ; inde ab Lysis fluminis fonte^ postero die
ad Cobulatum (ap. Polyb. KoXo^arov) amnem progressi. Ter-
messenses eo tempore Isiondensium arcem^ urbe capta, oppug-
nabant .... Volenti consull causa in Pamphyliam dirertendi
oblata est ; adveniens obsidione Isiondenses exemit. Termesso
pacem dedit^ 50 talentis argenti acceptis : item Aspendiis ceete-
risque Pamphylise populis. Ex Pamphylia rediens ad fluvium
Taurum primo die« postero ad Xylinen comen posuit castra.
Profectus inde continentibus itineribus ad Cormasa C&P* Polyb.
Kipfiaa-a) urbem pervenit. Darsa proxima urbs erat; earn . . .
desertam . . . invenit. Progredienti prseter paludes i(ap. Polyb.

Xifkmjv) legati abLysinoe dedentes urbem venerunt. Deinde
in agrum Sagalassenum, uberem fertilemque omni genere fru-
gum^ ventum est. Colunt Pisidse, longe optimi bello regionis
hujus : quum ea res animos facit^ turn agri fcecunditas^ et mul-
titude hominum, et situs inter paucas munitse urbis.

Progressus inde ad Obrimse fontes, ad vicum^ quern Aporidos
comen vocant, posuit castra. £0 Seleucus ab Apamea postero
die venit. /Egros inde et inutilia impedimenta quum Apameaai
dimisisset, ducibus itinerum ab Seleuco acceptis, profectus eo
die in Metropolitanum campum, postero die Dinias Phrygie
processit. Inde Synnada/* &c. Liv. 1. 38. c. 15.

Gh. 4.

153

Isionda appeim clearly ta have been on the Pam-
phylian side of Termessus* * * § .

Dombid seems to be a corruption of Ta’bse:
hardly^ indeed, a corruption, as it is no more than
the hard and rustic pronunciation of the Greek
word 'Ttt&ou. The situation of Dombm accords
very well with that which Strabo assigns to Taba?,
for he places it in the part of l^sidia adjacent to
Phry^a and Cariaf, and names it among the cities
which lay around Apameia and Laodiceia, which is
precisely the position of Dombai;];. The fertile
plain which has obtained the name of Dombai-
ovasi, or Valley of Dombai, corresponds equally
with the Ted/or, which, according to another

passage of Strabo, lay on the confines of Phrygia
and Pisidia$. It can hardly be doubted that Livy
has incorrectly described Tabae as situated on the
frontier of Pisidia towards the Pamphylian sea

The river called the Mender-su, which General
Koehler crossed at Sandukli, seems to be that
branch of the Maeander anciently called Obrimas,

* Compare the preceding Note with those in pp. 146, 147,

158. Artemidonis (ap. Strabon. p. 570) includes Sinda among
the cities of Pisidia. Stephanus calls it a city of Lycia.

t Strabo, p. 570. t Strabo, p. 676.

§ Strabo, p. 627.

^ " Inde (ab Antiochia ad Meandrum) ad Gordiutichoa,
quod vocant, processum est; ex eo loco ad Tabas tertiis castris
perventum : in finibus Pisidarum posita est urbs, in ea parte,
quae vergit ad Pamph]y|fum marc." Liv. 1. 38. c. 13.

154

Gh.4.

the fountuns of which were something more than
two days’ march from Synnada, and not far from
Metropolis on the side towards Apameia The
modern application of the ngme Meeander (Ihghtly
corrupted) to- a stream which was anciently consi-
dered a tributary of that river, is another instance
of those natural changes of geographical nomen-
clature, of which a similar example has already been
given in the case of the river Sangarins.

It has already been remarked, that General
Koehler’s route was crossed by five of the Roman
roads marked in the Peutinger Table. These are,
be^nniN^ from the southward, 1. From Laodiceia
ad Lycum to Perge; 2. From Apameia Cibotus to
Antiocheia of Pisidia; 3. From Apameia to Syn-
nada ; 4. from Apameia to Dorylaeum ; 5. From
Philadelphia to Dorylseum. — ^The real situations of
all these cities, except Antioch, being known with
sufficient exactitude, those of the intermediate places
on the several roads would also have been deter-
mined, had the distances in the Table been accurate;
but unfortunately, like some of those to which I have
already had occasion to advert, they are either im-
perfect or they are obviously erroneous, when com-
pared with the map.

1. From Laodiceia ad Lycum to Perge> passing
through lliemisonium and Cormasa.— Although
the direct distance is upwards of 100 G. M. there
* Sec the Note page^52.

Ch. 4. 165

are only 46 M. P. marked in the Tabl^ namely,
34 between Themisonium and Cormasa, and 12
from €!ormasa to Perge. If these two distances were
correct, therefore, the omitted distance between
LaodicCia and Themisonium ought to be supplied
with about 100 M. P. It is impossible to believe
however that Themisonium, which is named by
Strabo among the smaller towns around Apameia
and L^diceia*, could have been so far to the south-
east. Cormasa, on the other hand, must have been
much more than 12 M.P. from Perge; for it ap-
pears from Livy that Cormasa was at a conside-
rable distance from the borders of Pinphylia
towards Lysinoe and the lake of Burdur f ; which
agrees with Ptolemy, who names it among the
cities of IHsidia and next to Lysinia. The sus-
picion of inaccuracy in this route of the Table is
confirmed by the negligences which occur on its
continuation to Side ; where the distance between
Perge and Syllium is wanting, and where Syllium
and Aspendus occupy each other’s places. Upon
the whole, therefore, this route serves only to give
us the line of Themisonium and Cormasa, the
distance between which two places (34 M.P.) may

* Strabo, p. 576. See Note *, p. 158.— Ptolemy place* it
in the same part of the country with Cibyra, Hierapolis amk
Apameia. By Hierocles it is named among the towns of Phry-
gia Pacatiana, together with Laodiceia, Colossc and Hierapolis,

+ See Note p. 15?.

156 Ch.4.

perhaps be correct. And so far it may be ati useful
approximation to the traveller.

2. From Apameia to Antiocheia of jnsidia.— -
There cannot be a stronger proof of the little pro-
gress yet made in geographical discovery in Asia
Minor, than the fact, that the site of Apameia still
remains unexplored. Under the name of Celsense,
it was the capital of' Phrygia; and in Roman
times, although not equal in political importance
to Laodiceia, which was the residence of the pro-
consul of Asia, it was inferior only to Ephesus as
a centre of commercial transactions *. It appears
from Pococke to have been at a place called Din-
glar (or some such name), situated, as well as we
can discover amidst the negligence and want of
precision which are the usual characteristics of
Pococke’s narrative, at 8 or 10 miles on the right
of the road leading from Kh6nos to Ish4klef, and
about 16 miles to the southward of the latter
place. Pococke himself had no doubt that some re-
mains of antiquity which he observed at Ishekle
were those of Apameia ; thus overlooking, or fail-

« Strabo, p. 677.

t Pococke's Travels, vol. 2. part 2. c. 14.

X I have somewhat enlarged Pococke’s computation of miles,
as I find, in the sequel of his route to A'ngura, that (contrary
io the common error of travellers) it is generally below the
truth. He computes about 100 English miles from Karahissir
to A'ngura; whereas the distance b little less than 120 G. M.
in direct distance.

Ch. 4. is;

ing to decypher, an inscription which he copied at
that place, and which clearly proves it to be the site
of Eumeneia or Eumenia*.

Eumenia was situated on the river Glaucus, as
appears from an existing coin f . Pliny names the
Glaucus, but places Eumenia upon the river Clu*
drus. Possibly this may have been the name of
the sources of the Glaucus, those fine fountains
which Pococke observed at Ish^kle, and which may
perhaps join another stream in or near the town.

As Eumenia is marked in the Table on the road

* The beginning of this inscription is imperfect : it ends in a
form common upon sepulchral monuments^ by subjecting the
violator of the tomb to a fine^ payable to the treasury of the
city^ and another sum to the Council

^ISKON AHNAPIA ATSXEIAIA KAI
TII EYMENEflN BOYAII AHNAPIA B. *

Pococke copied the third letter of the lower line 2 insteid of E,
which was probably the cause of his failing to discover the
ancient name of Ishekle. Euf/LEvei/; is the ethnic adjective of
Eumeneia in Stephanas^ and ETMENEHN is the legend on
the coins^of that city. Another inscriptiqgfi at Ishekle supported
a statue of Marcas Aurelius^ rov Uiov ^iov svepyirr^v. And a
third attests the worship at that place, among other deities, of
the damon Angdlstis, ANFAISTEAE AAfMONOS, under
which name the mother of the gods was adired at Pessinus.
Her w'orship in the country adjacent to the Mseander may be
inferred from Pliny, who alludes to her epithet of Bcrecynthia
in the passage in which he speaks of Eumenia : Est Eumenia
Cludro flumini apposita, Glaucus amnls. Lysias oppidum el
Orthosia, Berecynthius tractus, Nysa, Tralles/* kc, i.5.c. 29.

t Eckhel Doct. Num. Vet. Phrygia.

158 Ch.4.

from Dorylaeum to Apamm at 26 M. P. from tlite
latter^ we have a presumption in thk datum alone
that Apameia was not far from Dingkr, the site of
which modern place, relatively to the other chief
ancient cities of Phrygia, is in conformity with that
of Apameia, as described by Strabo Our know-
ledge of the peculiarities of the place itself is derived
from Pbcocke and some recent travellers, who were
informed that at the place called Dinglar or Dizla
there are many remains of antiquity under a high
hill which has a lake on the summit and a river fall-
ing down the face of the hill ; for this description
of Dinglar accords precisely with that of Celaense as
given by several ancient authors. According to
Xenophon f the Mseander rose in the palace of Cy-
rus, flowing from thence through his park and the
city of Celaenss : and the sources of the Marsyas were

* P. 576. the south of Phrygia Epictetus,” he says,

is Great Phrygia, which has Pessinus and Lycaohia on the
right, the Maeones, Lydians and Carians on the left : it con-
tains Phrygia Paroreius and the part towards Pisidla, and the
country about Amorium, and Synnada and Eumeneia, Apameia
sumamed Cibotus, and Laodiceia, which are the two greatest
of the Phrygian cities, and around which are other smaller towns,
Aphrodisias, GoloSse, Themisonium, Sanaus, Metropolis, Apol-
lonias ; and still further off Peltae, Tabae, Eucarpia, Lysias
the still further off” (It< dirarripw roi/ro/v) is however not
geographically accurate in regard to all the places mentioned.

t KtXaivas ’Evraudcc Kvpw jSfieo’/Xsta xal ifapihtffos

.... Aid (Aecrov Ss rov irapa$ei(rov pet 6 Malay ^po$ itofapnof*
ai 5^ injyai aurtu eWtv sk rwv jSacPiXflW* pe7 Se xa) $id Ks-
Xaivevv flToXaw;. ^Ecrr* 5s xa) jxsyaXou ^aaiXewf ^aalXeia sv

Ch. 4. Id9

at the palace of the king of Persia in a lofty situ*
ation under the acropolis of Ce&ense. From
Arrian and Q. Curtius * we learn that the dtadel
was upon a lofty precipitous hill, and that the Mar*
syas fell from its fountmns over the rocks vnth a
great noise : from Herodotus f it appears that the
same river was from this circumstance called Ca-
tarrhactes; and from Strabo j;, that a lake on the

£pv[iyd, tir) 'tals rw Mapariou •torapLoS wVi 77

dxporroXsr pel xa) oSrog •iroXews xa) slg tbv

Malavfyoy, Xenoph. Cyri Exp. 1. 1 . c. 2.

Xenophon adds that Celaenae was a large and flourishing city j
that the palace and acropolis were built by Xerxes on hLs return
from Greece } that the park was full of wild beasts which
Cyrus hunted for the exercise of himself and his horses 5 that
the Marsyas rose in a cavern^ where Apollo hung up the skin of
Marayas $ and that the breadth of the Marsyas was 25 feet.

* 'A^e^aySpos .... d^ixvelrai Is Ke\o^iyds itept,7fralos, *Ey
ralf^ Ks\Mya7s axpa ttivryj aTtoropt^os^ Alexander gladly came
to terms with the people on account of the strength of the
citadel, {iiropov iravrij Kpatr^epearbou r^v axpay,) Arrian^ 1. 1.
c. 29.

Alexander .... ad urbem Celienas exercitum admovit. Me-
dium ilia tempestate interfluebat Marsyas amnis Fons

ejus ex summo mentis cacumine excurrens in subjectam petram

magno strepitu aquarum cadit Alexander .... arcem

oppugnare adortus caduceatorem praemisit .... illi coduceato-
rem in turrim et situ et opere multum editam perductum^
quanta esset altitude intueri jubent, &c. Q. Curt. 1. 3. c. 1.

t • . . • 6S Ks>,auyis' ha, mjyoii dyaMoun MwdySpou tto-
TapLoii, xa) hrepov oux eKdacrovos ^ MatdySpov, rw ouvopiM tuyxd^
eov KarappT^xtrfS, 0 $ eJ air^s Ke^,alyewy

dvareWtoy, eg tov MaiavSpoy sxbtbol. Herod. 1. 7. c. 26.
t "^Ibpvrai *Aifdpt.sta sin ralf ex^oXaJs ‘I'Ou Mapauov ra-

160

eh.4.

moun^n above Gilsenae was the reputed source
both of the Marsyas, which rose in the ancimt
city, and of the Maeander. Comparing these au-
thorities with Livy *, who probably copied his
account from Polybius, with Pliny f , with Maxi-

rojiMu' xa) iroXsuf i voroftof, rdf apy/if dti

(Tta^iMas) itoKsMs Tiaravexfieig ^ air) ro itpoiareiov

cfo^puj xai Karw^epaT r<p pauy^an, 0 ’u/x?aXXei itpog rov Ma/-
avBpov, TrpocreiXri^cra aa) £\Xoy irarctyLOv *Opyay, opi^aKoij

^ap6pi,avov itpaov xou (/.aXoDtov' ’^Apxp'fou (6 Meday^pog)

dito KeXatvuJyj Xofou rivog ay w itoXtg ijy of/^cSyupt^og Tcp Xofty,
*Eyreu6sy Se dyoLfrtr^froLg roug dv^pcuitovg 6 'Earr^p *Avrw%of etg

t^y yvy *Airdpi,eiayf &c. - ■ n tifepKsirai $a xod Xlfiyri pvovora,

xdXafioy, rov e]g rdg yXtutrag rm auXwy kwr^Ssm, a^ ijj airo-
XeiSeffSal faari rdg injydg dpi^^origag, rr^v re rou Mapruov xa)
njy rou Maidv^pou. Strabo> p. 578,

* Consul (Cn. Manlius) .... ad Antiochiam super Msandrum
^ amnem posuit castra. Hujus amnis fontes Celaenis oriuntur.
Celsenae urbs caput quondam Phiygiae fuit : migratum inde
baud procul veteribus Celsenis^ novaeque urbi Apameae nomcn

inditum Et Marsyas amnis^ baud procul a Maeandri

fontibus oriens, in Maeandrum cadit. Famaque ita tenet
CelaenLs Marsyam cum Apolline tibiarum cantu certnssc. Mas-
ander, ex arce summa Celaenarum ortus, media ^irbe decur-
rens^ per Caras primum, deinde lonas, in sinum marls editur,
qui inter Prienen et Miletum est. Liv. 1. 38. c 38.

t Tertius (Asiae Conventus) Apamlam vadit^ ante appellatam
Celaenas^ dein Ciboton. Sita est in' radice Montis Signis^
circumfusis Marsya^ Obrima, Orga fluminibus in Maeandrum
cadentibus. Marsyas ibi redditur ortus ac paullo mox con*
ditus ^ ubi certavit tibiarum cantu cum Apolline^ Aulocrenis
ita vocatur, convallis decern millia passuum ab Apamia Phry-
giam petentibus. * * * * Amnis Maeander ortas e lacu in
monte Aulocrene .... Apamenam primum pervagatur regio-
nem mox Eumeniticam, &c. Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 29.

Gh.4.

lOI

liiils Tyriiis and with the existing coins of Ajpla-
nieiaf, it may be inferred that a lake Or pool oh
the stimnik of a mountain which rose abov^ Celae-
nas, and which was called Celsense dr Signia, the
reputed source of the Marsyas and Mseander; but
that in fact the two rivers issued from different
parts of the mountain below the lake : that the
lake was named Aulocrene, as producing reeds well

* oi itep\ KfXatva; yc|u.Oftsyoi «ora/xou;

Mapirvav aai Maiap9poy, elSov rovf it^tafiovs, dfir^ariv avrwf
VTfjy^ pi,la, ^ itposXBovffa ev) to opos d^avi^stat xara ywrou ttfi
iroXeujs lx^<^o7 gx tou dtteog, SteXoutra toTf ‘jrotaf^oT; xa)

TO uSoop xa) rd ovoyLata, I [/.h hit) AvSIaf pel 6 Moday^^of, 6
avtou itep) td iteSia dyaXitxstau, Max. Tyr. Dissert. 8. c. 8.

He then proceeds to relate a tale resembling that which
Strabo has told us of the Alpheius and Eurotos, and which
shews that the sources of the Maeander and Marsyas were ^
exactly circumstanced as those of the two Peloponnesian rivers,
described by Pausanias (Arcad. c. 43.) and Strabo (p. 343),
and the accuracy of whose description I have myself ascer-
tained. Those celebrated streams issue from separate sources
at the foot of a mountain, behind which, in the elevated plain
of Asea, is a rivulet, which, after crossing that plain, runs
through a small lake into the mountain. This rivulet was
anciently reputed to be the common origin of the two rivers j
and it was believed (but apparently not by Strabo himself),
that if offerings to the two river-gods were thrown into this
stream, each offering would re-appear at the source of the river
for the god of which it was destined by the sacriiicer. Maxi-
mus Tyrius improves upon the similar story relating to the
Mseander, by adding, that if a joint offering was thrown in for
both the go^, it was divided in its passage through the moun^
tain, and a portion appeared at each of the lower sources.

t See Eckhel and Mionnet in Phrygia.

M

162

Ch.4,

adapted for flutes; and that it gave the name of Au>
locrenis to a valley extending for ten miles from
the lake to the eastward: that the source of the
Marsyas was in a cavern on the side of the moun-
tain in the ancient agora of Celsena: : that the
Marsyas and Mseander, both of which flowed
through Celasnse, united a little below the ancient
site: that to this junction the city was removed by
Antiochus Soter, son of Seleucus Nicator, when
he gave it a new name after bis mother Apama;
and that the united stream was soon afterwards
joined by the Orgas and the Obrimas. Whether
these inferences drawn from the ancient authors
are correct, will be decided by the future travellen
He may also ascertain whether there are any vol-
^canic rocks, the burnt appearance of which will jus-
tify the etymologist* who ascribed to that cause the
origin of the word Celicnm ; or he may discover
the valley of Aulocrenis, the scene of the cele-
brated contest of Apollo with Marsyas, whose skin
was still shown in the time of Herodotus, in the
acropolis of Celsense f*

* Strabo, p. 679.

t M. Barbie du Bocage, in his notes to the French translation
of Chandler, thinks that the words of Pliny cited above, warrant
the supposition that Apameia was ten miles distant from the site
of Cebenee. I cannot perceive any such meaning in them : on
the contrary, I think it clearly appears from Strabo, that both
the rivers ran through Celtene, and that they united in the
suburb, which afterwards became the new city Apameia. The
removal of Grecian cities, from the strong positions of the an-

Ch. 4.

163

I have been thus particular in laying before the
reader the ancient evidences on the site of Apameia,
because it is a point of great importance to the
ancient geography of the western part of Asia Mi-
nor, — not less so than Tyana is to the eastern : and
because in regard to both these places, I have the
misfortune to differ from the author in whose opi-
nion the public is justly in the habit of placing the
highest confidence*.

The Roman road from Apameia to Antiocheia
of Pisidia passed through Apollonia, otherwise
called Mordiaeumj', which was 24 M.P. distant
from the former, and 45 from the latter. Although
on account of our ignorance of the site of Antio-
cheia, no exact comparison can be instituted between
the amount of the two numbers just mentioned*
and the actual distance on the map, it is ma-
nifestly not very erroneous; and the position of
Apollonia therefore was probably at no great
distance from a town called Ketsiburlu, which

cient independent republics, to neighbouring situations more
commodious but less defensible, was a common occurrence on
the decline of the republican system in Greece, and on the pre-
valence of monarchy ^ and it was a natural consequence of that
change of system. The removal was generally attended with
a change of name, which flattered the Macedonian or Roman
prince under whom the removal took place. It often occurred,
also, that a new name was given upon the mere occasion of a
repair, when there was no change of situation.

* See Renneirs Illustrations of the Expedition of Cyrus,
t Stephan, in 'AifoXXwyia.

M 2

164

eh.4i

Generd Koehlsr passed through between Burdur
and Dombai, and which according to Abubdur
Ben Behrra is a kadilik of Hamed, of which labdrta
is the duef dily. Ptolemy places Apolionia:iMtt
Antiecheia; and its situation, between thatcity and
Apamda, which the Table gives, is in exact con*
formity with Strabo’s description of the conquests
of Amyntas. Having taken Derbe, and received
Isauria from the Romans, he made himself master
of Antiocheia, and the country as &r as'the district
of Apollonia, near Apameia Cibotus*, together
with Lycaonia and some part of Phrygia Fftroreius.
He took Cremna, but did not venture on attacking
Sandalium: and dter capturing the greater part of
the places belonging to the Homonadenses, (whose
^’tyrant he slew,) he was himself destroyed by a stra*
tagem of the wife of the latter. Sulpicius Quirinius
and the Romans afterwards reduced Homona:— all
the late territories of Amyntas were then placed
under the government of a preefect f . i

3. Hie ancient road from Apameia to Synnada
must have crossed that of Gen. Koehler at or near
Sandukli, on the river now called the Mendere (Mse-
ander), but which anciently, I suppose to have been
the Obrimas, a branch of the Mseander. The total
distance of 73 Roman miles on this road agrees

• Tiji' YdfKmifXftea/ rp IlmSifi

rpf rpof 'Awa/uift iy KiCcorw &c. Strabo, p. $69.
t Strabo, ibid.— Tacit. Ann. 1. 3. c. 48.

Gh.4. 1«6

tolerably with the 66 geogpraphical ihiles in dir^
distance which the map gives between the aacumed
site of S 3 mnada and that of Apameia at * IMhglar.
Euplmrbitimj the only place on the road mentioned
in the Table, and which was midway between the
two extremes, will fell at Sandukli. Euphorbium
is noticed as a town in this part of Asia by Hiny
only, who tells us that its people formed,~>together
with those of Metropolis, Peltse, Acmonia and
some other towns, — ^the conventus held under the
Romans at Apameia

4. The fourth Roman road which crossed the
modern route from Adalia to Shughut, is that
marked in the Table from Dorylaeum to Apa-
mda Cibotus, leading through Nacoleia, Gonni,
Eucarpia, and Eumeniaf. Although the total
distance of 148 M. P. on this road sufficiently
agrees with the 100 G. M. in direct distance on
the map, it must be confessed that the 26 Ro>
man miles and the 15 geographical miles of direct
distance, between Eumenda at'Ishdkle and Apa-

* Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 29. Similar assemblies were held
at Cibyra, Synnada, Laodiceia ad Lycnm, Alabanda, Ephesus,
Smyrna, Saides, Adramyttium, and Pergamum.

t Between Eumenia and the number which marks the miles
from thence to ad vicum, winch seems to have been a small place
between Eumenia and Apamma,T—oceur8 the word Pella. lam
quite unaiUe to esplun what this means. I thought at first it was
amistake for Pelta, an important town situated in this'part of
Phrygia ; but it is imposuble to find room for Peltas sind the
great Peltene plain between Ishfikle and IXnglar.

166

Ch. 4.

tneia at Dinglar, do not bear the same proportion
as the Roman and geographical numbers on the
whole line ; and that, if I am right in the position
of Nacoleia, the 20 M. P. of the Table, between
Dorylseum and Nacokia, errs almost as much im
defect, as the 26 M. P. between Eumeneia and
Apameia does in excess. But it is in vain that
we look for much accuracy of detail in the Table.
The positions of Nacoleia and Eumeneia rest upon
very satisfactory grounds. All that remains to be
done, therefore, is to arrange Conni and Eucarpia
between Doganlu and Ish^kle, at the proportional
distances of the numbers in the Table. This will
place Conni not far to the southward of Altun Tash,
near where the roads to Altun Tash, both from
Karahissdr and from Sandukli, cross the ancient
road ; a position which agrees with that of Conna
in Ptolemy *, according to whom it appears to have
been not far from Cotyaeium, to the southward.
Under the Byzantine emperors, Conna ($hen called
Conef) was a bishopric of the province of Phrygia
Salutaris, of which Synnada was the metropolis.

Eucarpia was another bishopric of the same
province. Its name was derived from the fertility
of the soil ;{;, which by attaching the people to agri-
culture may have contrasted them with those of the
neighbouring Euphorbium, celebrated probably for

* Ptolemy, 1. 5. c. 2. t Notit. Episc. Graec.

t Stephan, de Urb. in

Ch. 4.

ler

its flocks and pasture. The position of Eucarpia
in the Table agrees with that which Ptolemy gives
it to the southward of Conna.

5. The fifth and last of the ancient roads inter-
sected by the modern road ftom Addlia to Shughut
was from Dorylseum to Philadelpheia : its two ex-
tremities are known points ; its length in direct
distance is equal to two degrees of latitude, or 120
G. M., which corresponds with as much accuracy
as one can expect to the 155 M. P. of the Table.
The /ine, as will be seen on referring to the map,
leads directly through Kutdya. We cannot doubt
therefore that Cocleo, the first name occurring on
this road in the Table, is an error for Cotyaeio ;
especially as the distance of 30 M. P. answers very
well to the real distance from Eski-shehr to Kutdya.
The distance of 35 M. P. between Cotyaeium and
Acmonia furnishes the traveller with a good ap-
proximation for discovering the site of the latter
city, which is mentioned in one of the Orations of
Cicero and which was one of the towns of the con-
rentus of Apameia, and afterwards a bishopric under
the metropolitan of Laodiceia. It is difficult to re-
concile the position of Aludda, 25 miles beyond Ac-
monia on the road to Philadelpheia, with that which
may be inferred from Ptolemy, who names Alydda
among the towns of the greater Mysia, together
with Pergamum and Apollonia on the Rhyn-
* Cicero pro Flacco, c. 15.

dacus. Clanudda I suapect jto be an eiToneo^iis
writing; but Us correcUon 1 am uni^le to
cover.

It is in the unexplored part of Phrygia Epic-
tetus*, lying between the '^ymbixs and the
branches of theBhyndacus on the southern side of
^e Olytnpene mountains, that the future traveller
will seek for the Phrygian cities of Cadi, Azani,
and Synaus. One is much disposed at first sight
to consider the remarkable position of lD<%hi, which
General Koehler passed through in his way from
Kutdya to Shughut, to have been the site of one of
these cities of Phrygia Epictetus ; but upon further
examination, they all appear to have been situated
considerably to the westward of this posiUpn.
The Azanitis, or district of Azani, contained the
sources of the river Rhyndacus, which, after pass-
ing through the lake of Apollonia, joined the Pro-
pontis opposite the island of Besbicus, having first
received the united waters of several streams from
Mysia Abrettena, particularly the Mecistus, which
flowed from Ancyra Abassitis, a Phrygian town on
the frontier of Lydia f* Synaus appears to have

^ It was also called Hellespontlne Phrygia^ although totally
divided from the Hellespont by Mjmia. Hence it would seem
that the part of Mysia lying between mount Olympus and tbe
Caicus was included at one time in the district of Hellespon-
tus 5 which at that time extended from the Hellespont to the
Thymbres.

t Strabo, p, 576,

Ch.4.

160

been near this Ancyra ; for in the acts of one of
the Councils, a bishop of the Phry^an Ant^ra
signs himself AyKtigus "Swriou, no doubt in order
to distinguish this Ancyra from the Galatian. Cadi
also may be presumed to have been to the west*
ward of the meridian of In6ghi and Kutdya; for
we find that Cadi is assigned by some authors to
Mysia*. It is precisely in the situation, which may
be inferred from this circumstance, combined with
what has been said of the position of Synaus and
Azani, — ^that is to say, between the Thymbres and
the sources of the Rhyndacus, — ^that we find a
town of the name of Kodds, which has not been
visited by any modern traveller, but which is briefly
described by Hadji Khalfa — as situated on the banks
of a river, in a plain surrounded by 'mountains.
He adds that the river, which bears the same name
as the town, descends from Mount Morad, and
passes by Magnesia into the Gulf of Smyrna. We
know from modern travellers, that this river, which
is the ancient Hermus, is still called Kodds or Ghe*
dis in all the lower part of its course; and Kodds, it
can hardly be doubted, is the same place as K/Hos,
the name of which the Turks received from the
Greeks, in the usual Romaic form of the accusa*
tive case

* Strabo ibid. See Note t, p. 145. — Ptolemy ascribes Cadi
and two other towns to the Erizcli, a people of Mseonia, on the
borders of Mysia, Lydia and Phrygia.

iro ch. 4.

In exploring the equally unknown country which
extends to the southward of this part of Phrygia
Epictetus, towards the mountains Messog^ and
Tmolus, and which formed the frontier of L^dia
and Great Phrygia, the traveller may derive assist*
ance from a passage in Strabo *, where he enume-
rates the principal plains in their order from west
to east. Adjacent to the Caystrian, which lay be-
tween Tmolus and Messogis, was the Cilbian,
then the Hyrcanian, the plain of Cyrus, the Pel-
tene, the Cillanian, and the Tabene. It cannot
be doubted that a journey through these plains
would lead to a knowledge of the general distri-
bution of the geogi'aphy of the country, as well as
to that of the sites of some of the towns which
gave name to the several plains. Peltse, Lysias^
and Silbium appear to have been in the country
northward of the upper Meeander, which is traversed
by the caravan route from Smyrna to Tokdt : but
the few names and distances which Tavernier and
Seetzen have left us between Alldh-Shehr and Ka-
rahissdr, throw no light whatever upon ancient
geography.

* Strabo^ p. 629.

CHAPTER V.

OF THE ANCIENT PLACES ON THE SOUTHERN
COAST OF ASIA MINOR.

Although the Karamania of Captain Beaufort
has anticipated all that is most interesting in re-
gard to the southern coast/ the publication which
has recently been made of his minute and accurate
delineation of this coast, induces me to enter into
an examination of its ancient geography at greater
length than was consistent with the plan of the
Karamania: for poor and deserted as this country
now is, the numerous remains of antiquity which
it possesses, attest that it was formerly one of the
most populous and flourishing regions of the an-
cient world. It is remarkable that in Strabo, and
in the anonymous Periplus, entitled the Stadias-
mus of the Sea {arothourfjudg rfjg a frag-

ment of which is preserved in the Madrid library,
we have a more ample description of this coast than
of any other that has been distinguished by Grecian
civilization : and thus at the same time that history
has preserved an abundance of information concern-
ing its ancient places, the survey of Capt. Beaufort
furnishes us with a most correct representation of
its real topography.

172

Ch.6.

The most convenient mode of putting the reader
in possession of the ancient anthorities on the aea
coast of liycia, Pamphylia, and Cilicia, in or^
that he may compare them with the actual ddine*
ation, mil be to give a translation of its description
by Strabo, subjoining in the notes the collateral
information of other ancient authors, together mth
* a few remarks suggested by a comparison of them.
The passages of the Stadiasmus I shall cite at
length in the original language, because they are
found only in a scarce work. So minute is the
description which this coasting pilot has given, that
nothing short of the detailed accuracy of Captain
Beaufort’s survey could have been suificient to ex>
plain it, or to detect and rectify the numerous
errors which have been left in it by the negligei^
and ignorance of the copier *.

As Captain Beaufort’s survey begins at the gulf
anciently called Glaucus, and now the gulf of
kri, I shall also be^n the extract from^trabof at
the same point, omitting all the passages which do
not assist in elucidating the geography.

* llie survey having been reduced to a tenth of Cqptain
Beaufort’s scale in the map which accompanies the present
volume, the latter may in some instances, perhiqps, be found
inadequate to illustrate the geographical remarks in the fdIlotV>
ing diiqater; whidi were constantly made with a reference to
the survey itself. In all such difficulties, which it is hoped will
not be found numerous, the reader is necessarily referr^ to
the original authority. f Strabo, p. 664,

Ch. 5.

173

Beyond Pttdala, which is the last place in Pe*
raea of the Rhodii (J), is a mountain of the same
name, from whence be^ns the coast of Lycia, which
is 1720 stades in (arcum>navigBtion, ru^ed and dan-
gerous, but provided with good harbours. ... Near
Dsedala, a mountun of the Lydi, is Telmissus, a
small city of the Lycii, and Cape Telmissis widi a
harbour. Next is Andcragus, a very steep mountidn,
under which is Carmylessus, situated in a narrow
valley: beyond it is Cragus, which has eight capes
and a city of the same name. It is to these moun-
tains that the fiibles related of the Chimaera are ap-
plied, and in the dcinity there is a ravine called Chi-
maera opening to the sea. Under Mount Cragus
in the interior is Pinara, one of the largest cities in
Lycia. Then occurs die river Xanthus, formerly
called Sirbe. It may be ascended in small boats to'
the temple of Latona, which is situated ten stades
above its mouth: sixty stades above the temple is
the city of the Xanthii, the greatest in Lycia (2).
Beyond the Xanthus is Patara, also a great city,
and having a port and a temjde of Apollo, founded
by Patarus (3) Then occurs Myra (4), si-

tuated twenty stades above the sea on a command-
ing hill; then the mouth of the river Lamyrus;
and twenty stades inland from it, the small town of
Limyra. On the coast just mentioned are many
harbours and islands: of the latter, the largest is
called Cisthene (5), and has a town of the same

name. In the interior are IHiellus, Antipbellus (6),
and Chimsera^ of which last we^iaye already spoken.
B^ond the mouth of the Limyrus is the Sacred Pro-
montory ( 7 ), and the three rugged islands called the
Chelidonise, equal in size, and distant from each
other about five stades, and from the continent six
stades ; one of them has an anchorage. From hence
it is generally thought that Mount Taurus has its
beginning. * * * But in truth the mountains are un-
interrupted from Peraea of the Rhodii, as far as the
parts about Pisidia; and the whole of this range also
bears the name of Taurus. * * * From the Sacred
Promontory to Olbia there is a distance of 367 stades
(8), in which space occurs Crambusa (9) and Olym-
pus : the latter is a large city, and has a mountain
of the same name, which is also called Phcenicus
(10); next to it is the coast named Corycus (1 1);
and then Phaselis, a large city with three harbours
and a lake. Above Phaselis is Mouiit Solyma.
Termessus, a Pisidian city, is situated qt the straits
of Mount Solyma, where is the ascent into Milyas.
Alexander destroyed Termessus, because he was
desirous of opening those passes. Near Phaselis
is the defile on the sea-shore through which Alex-
ander led his army. The mountain is called Cli-
max; it borders upon the Pamphylian sea, leaving a
narrow passage along the shore, which, when the sea
is calm, is dry and practicable to travellers, but when
swollen, is, for the most part, covered by the waves.

Ch. 6. 175

The roa^ver the ino.untain is circuitpus and dif-
ficult, for which re^pn the passage along the shore
is preferred in fair weather. Alexander happening
to be here in the winter season, and trusting to
fortune, attempted to pass before the waves had
subsided; the soldiers in consequence had to march
the whole day up to the middle in water (12).
Phaselis is a city of Lycia on the confines of Pam-
phylia ; it does not, however, belong to the com-
munity of the Lycians, but has a separate govern-
ment of its own. In like manner Homer considers
the Solymi as separate from the Lycians. * * *
Next to Phaselis is Olbia (13), a great fortress, and
the beginning of Pamphylia; then the Catarrhactes,
a large and rapid river, which falls from a lofty
rock, with a sound heard at a great distance (14).
Next is the city Attaleia, so named from its founder
Attains Philadelphus, who having also introduced a
colony into the neighbouring town of Corycus, com-
prehended them within a wall, which inclosed a space
of ground of no great extent (15). It is said that
Thebe and Lyrnessus* are to be seen between Pha-
selis and Attaleia; for Callisthenes informs us that
a part of the Cilices ofTroas being driven out of the
plain of Thebe, came into Pamphylia. Next is the
river Oestrus (16), navigable for sixty stades to
Perge ; near Perge, in a lofty situation, is the

* Stmbo here means to allude to the mention of these two
places by Homer.

176

ch:

temple of Diana P^gasa, where a rey|^ou|,^'as«
sembly is held every year. ' at a disimiee

of forty stades from the sea, is a lofty city, cpn*
spicuous hroin Perge; then a lake of considerable
size, called Capria; and next the river Eurymedon ;
and a navigable ascent of sixty stades to the po-
pulous city of Aspendus, which was a colony from
Argus. Higher up lies Pednelissus. Beyond (the
Eurymedon) is another river, with many small
islands lying before it ( 1 7) . Then occurs Side (18),
a colony from Cyme, and having a temple of Mi-
nerva. Near it is the coast of the lesser Cibyra;
then the river Melas (19), and a station for ships;
and then the city Ptolemais (20), beyond which are
theboundaries of Pamphylia and Coracesium, which
is the beginning of Cilicia Tracheia. The whole
circumnavigation of Pamphylia is 640 stades.

“ Of Cilicia, beyond Taurus, a part is called Tra-
cheia (rugged), and a part Pedias (plain). Of the
rugged, the maritime part is narrow, and has very
little or no level country ; the part which the Tau-
rus overhangs is equally mountainous, and is thinly
inhabited as far as the northern flanks near Isaura,
and the Homonadenses, and as far as Pisidia.
Hence the country is called Tracheiotis, and the
inhabitants Tracheiotte. Cilicia Pedias extends
from Soli and Tarsus as far as Issus ; and includes
all the country as far as the part of Cappadocia
which is adjacent to the northern flank of Taurus.

Ch. 5.

177

This dl^ibn of Cilicia consists for the most part
of plains/ and a land.

Having spoken bf the parts (of Cilicia) within
Taurus we shall now proceed to speak of those
without Taurus, beginning with Tracheiotis. The
first fortress of theCilicians is Coracesiuin,builtupon
a precipitous rock (21). Diodotus, surnamed Try-
plion, made use of it as an arsenal, w’hen, with va-
rying success, he headed an insurrection of Syria
against its kings, and at length was forced to put an
end to his own life, upon being blockaded in a cer-
tain fortress by Antiochus the son of Demetrius.
Tryphon set the example of piracy to the Cili-
cians, &c.

After Coracesiuin is Syedra (22), then Hainaxia
(23), a small inhabited place upon a rock, with a
station for vessels below it, to which ship-timber is
brought down from the mountains. This consists
chiefly of cedar, a wood apparently very abundant
in these parts; for which reason Antonius gave this
region to Cleopatra, as being well suited for fitting
out her fleets. Next occurs Laertes (24), a fortress
situated upon a liill shaped like a woman's breast,
and having an anchorage below it; then the river
Sclinus; then Cragus, a rock rising from the sea,
and precipitous on every side; and then the castle
of Charadrus, which has an anchorage below it.

See Strabo, p. .'iSS et seq. and page 64 of this volume.

N

*

178

Ch. 6.

Tlie mountain Andriclus rises above Cbaradrus.
beyond vrhich is a rugged shore^called Platanistus,
and the promontory Anemurium. Here the conti-
nent lies nearest to the coast of Cyprus, at the pro-
montory Crommyon, the distance being 350stades.
From the frontier of Pamphylia to Anemurium, the
length of the coast of Cilicia is 820 stades; the re-
mtunder, as far as Soli, is 500 stades (25). In this
spaceNagidus (26) is the first city which occurs after
Anemurium; then Arsinoe (27), having a station for
ships before it; then tlie place called Melania, and
Celenderis, a city with a harbour (28). Some con-
sider this place, and not Coracesium, as the begin-
ning of Cilicia. * * * Next occurs Holini, where
the people of Seleuceia first dwelt, but who after
the erection of Seleuceia upon the Calycadnus
emigrated to that place. Immediately after turn-
ing the shore which forms a promontory, called
Sarpedon, is the mouth of the Calycadnus; near
the Calycadnus is Zephyrium, also a promontory;
the river is navigable up to Seleuceia, which is a
populous city (29). * * * Beyond the Calycadnus
is the rock Poecile (30), cut into steps leading to
Seleuceia. Then occurs Anemurium, a cape, of
the same name as the former, and the island
Crambusa, and the promontory Corycus (31), 20
stades above which is the Corycian cave. * * *
Next to Corycus is Elseussa, an island near the
shore (32). The town was founded by Archelaus,

Ch. 5.

179

and became his residence when he took all Cilicia
Trachela, except ^leuceia, in the same manner as
Amyntas had it before him, and still earlier Cleo-
patra. * * ♦ The boundary of Cilicia Tracheia is
between Soli and Eiseussa, at the river Lamus,
where is a town of the same name. * * * Beyond
Lamus is the important city of Soli, the beginning
of Cilicia Issensis: it was founded by the Achacans,
and the Rhodii of Lindus. To this place, being in
a deserted state, Pompey the Great removed such
of the pirates as he thought most worthy of cle-
mency and protection, and named the place Pom-
peiopolis (33). * * ♦ Next occursZephyrium, of the
same name as that at the Calycadnus (34) ; then
Anchiale, situated at a short distance from the shore
(35). * * * Above it is the fortress Cyinda, where
the Macedonians formerly kept their treasures, which
Eumenes seized, rebelling against Antigonus.
Above this place and Soli are mountainous districts,
where is the city Olbe, with a temjile of Jupiter,
founded by Ajax the son of Teucer. ♦ * * Next
to Anchiale are the mouths of the Cydnus, near
the place called Rhegma. lliis place, which resem-
bles a lake, preserves some remains of the naval
arsenal, which it formerly contained; it is now the
port of Tarsus. The river Cydnus, which rises in
the part of Mount Taurus above Tarsus, flows
through the middle of that city, and into the lake
(3fi). ♦ * * Beyond the Cydnus is the Pyramus,

N 2

180

Ch. 5.

flowing from Cataonia (37). Artemidorus says that
the distance from this river to Soli, in a direct line,
is 500 stades. Near it is Mallus, situated upon a
height; it was founded by Amphilochus and Mop-
sus, who, having slain one another in single combat,
were buried so that the tomb of one should not be
visible from that of the other: — the sepulchres are
now shown near Magarsa and the Pyramus. * * *
Above this coast is the plain called Aleium, through
which Philotas led the cavalry of Alexander, while
the king himself conducted the phalanx from Soli
by the sea-coast and the Mallotis to Issus (38).
* * * Beyond Mallus is the town iEgfeae, which has
an anchorage below it, and then the gates (Pylae)
Amanides. Here also is an anchorage; and here
Afount Arnanus terminates, which joins to Taurus,
and bounds Cilicia on the East. Next to iEga^ae is
the small town of Issus, where the battle was fought
between Alexander and Darius. The gulf is called
Issic: in it are the towms Rhosus and Myriandrus,
and Alexandreia, and Nicopolis, and Mopsuestia
(39): and the gates (Pylfe) as they are called, which
are the boundary of Cilicia and Syria.”

Ch. 5.

181

• NOTES.

(Note 1 .) Peraea (from Uspa) was the name of the coast of
Caria opposite to Rhodus^ which for several centuries formed a
dependency of that opulent republic. In the time of Scylax,
the Rhodii possessed only the peninsula immediately in face of
their island. As a reward for their assistance in the Antiochian
war, the Romans gave them a part of Lycia and all Caria as
for as the Maeander. By having adopted a less prudent policy
in the second Macedonic war, they lost it all, including Cau-
nus, the chief town of Peraea. It was not long, however, be-
fore it w’as restored to them, together with the small islands
near Rhodus 5 and from this time Peroea retained the limits
which Strabo has described, namely, Daedala on the east, and
Mount Loryma on the west, both included. Vespasian finally
reduced Rhodus itself into the provincial form, and joined it to
Caria. Liv. 1. 38. c. 39. — 1. 45. c. 20, 25. Cicero, Ep. ad
Fratrem. 1. 1 . c. 1 . Sueton. in Vespas. c. 8 .

(2) The names and distances on this part of the coast, in the
anonymous Periplus or Stadiasmus, which proceeds in a con-
trary direction to Strabo (or from east to west), are as follows :

’Aw'd evi Trorctptoif

’A«-d TOW Torceptou S»vrov fig Wvhvttg tTfvStietg areth, J. ((50.)

'A^d Iluipctif foig r^g ’ Ig^Ag dtKQctg areth, •k, (HO.)

' Ato ' \t^Ag AK^etg fig KaXetfooiitTietif grtih, X. (30.)

A^rd Kethet^uyrictg fii Tlf^tKtetg (50.)

' ATrd fig Ktagi^ug grteZ, g. (50.)

’A^d YLtggi^cjg fig g^gop AAyovgug gr»^. tt, (80.)

’ A?rd Auyovgug fig TfT^tfctggov greii, f, (5.)

Here it may be observed, that, reckoning about ten stades
to the geographical mile, the total coasting distance of 355
stades between Telmissus and the Xanthus is not incorrect
when applied to the map; that the 140 stades from the Xan-
thus to Cape Hiera, carries us to the most projecting point of
the Efta Kavi, or Seven Capes ^ as the eight promontories of

182

Ch.5.

Mount Cragus mentioned by Strabo are now called ; and that
the 130 stades from Cape Hiera to Cissides^ and the 85 stades
from Cissides to Telmissus, — concur in showing that Cissides
was the name of the peninsular promontory^ on the south side
of which is the island and harbour of St. Nicholas. As the
ruins upon this ca])c and island, which 1 visited in coasting
from Custel Rosso to Makri, indicate a late period of the
Roman Empire, it is probable that the town did not exist in
the time of Strabo ; for the position will not answer to that of
Carmylcssus, which, jiccording to the Geographer, was in a
(pdpay^, or narrow valley, of Mount Anticragus. The exact
situation of Carmylessus, therefore, still remains unknown 5
as well as that of the cities of Cragus, of Pinara at the foot of
Mount Cragus, and of Tlos at the passage of the mountains
leading from the sea-coast into the Cibyratis*. According
to Artemidorus, — Pinara, Tlos, Patara, Xanthus, Myra, and
Olympus were the six great cities of Lycia: so that Tel-
missus, which is styled a probably had not in the time

of Artemidorus reached that importance which its theatre shows
that it afterwards enjoyed. The ruins remarked by Captain
Beaufort under Mount Cragus, at the northern extremity of
the sandy beach which extends to the river Xanthus, seem to
answer to the Pydnse of the Stadiasmus : it is perhaps the
same as the Cydna, which Ptolemy places among the cities of
Mount Oagus.

(3) The port of Patara, which was too small to contain the
allied fleet of the Romans, Hhodii, and other Greek states under
the command of L. iEmilius Regillus in the Antiochian war t,
is now entirely choked up by encroaching .sands. The ruins
of the city are extensive ; consisting of the town -walls, and of
numerous sepulchres on the outside ; and within, of the remains
of several public buildings. Among these is a theatre, in good
pre.scrvation, and nearly of the same size as that of Telmissus 3
it is 21)5 feet in diameter, with thirty-four rows of seats,

* .. . . KctTflc T'*jy i/TthOiotu rijv tig Kt^v^eiv KUfilvifiv. Artcmid.

ap. Strab. p. fida. t biv, 1. 37. c. 17.

Ch. 5.

183

and a proscenium, upon which a long inscription shows that
the theatre was built by Q. Velius Titianus, and dedicated
by his daughter Velia Procla, in the fourth consulate of
the Emperor Antoninus Pius (a.d. 145). Appian remarks,
that Patara was like a port to Xanthiis ; which city appears
from Strabo and the Stadiasmus to have been on the banks of
the river Xanthus, eight or nine miles above Patara. Ruins
are known to exist in this situation, but they have not yet been
described by any modern traveller. According to Arrian *, it
seems to have been on the left bank of the river : for Alexander
crossed the river Xantlius from Telmissus, before he took the
cities Pinara, Xauthus, and Patara. Hence, also, we have
some light on the site of Pinara.

(4) Myra still preserves its ancient name, together with the
ruins of a theatre 355 feet in diameter ^ the remains of several
))ublic buildings, and numerous inscribed sepulchres, on some of
which are the Lycian characters, found also at Limyra, Telmis-
sus, and Cyana. The distance of the ruins of Myra from the sea
corresponds very accurately with the twenty stadcs of Strabo.

Andriace, described as the port of Myra by Appian t , and which
is named also by Pliny and Ptolemy, is still called Andrdki. On
the banks of the river by which Lentulus ascended to Myra, after
breaking the chain which closed the port, are the ruins of a large
building, which appears by an inscription to have been a granary
of Hadrian. Here are also several other remains of antiquity.

(5) There is no variation in the MSS. of Strabo in this
place, and Isocrates also names KivSYivyj in a manner which
leads one to believe that he is .spetiking of a phice on this
coast J. Later writers, however, make no mention of Cis-
thene^ and Ptolemy §, Pliny ||, and Stephanusf, agree in
showing that Megiste and Dolichiste were the two principal

* Arrian, dc Exp. Alex. 1. 1. c. 24.
t Appian. Bel. Civ. 1. 4. c. 82. J Panegyr. 41.

§ Ptol. 1. 5. c. 3. II Piin. Hittt. Nat. 1. 5. c. 31

•f Stephan, in ct

184

Ch.5.

islands on the coast of Lycia : the former word (greatest) well
describing the island of Kasteldryzo, or Castel Rosso, as the
latter word {longest) does that of Kakava. Nor is Scylax less
precise in pointing out Kasteloryzo as Megiste^ which name is
found in an inscription copied by Mr. Cockerell from a rock at
Castel Rosso *, It would seem, therefore, that this island was
anciently known by both names (Megiste and Cisthene) , but in
later times perhaps chiefly by that of Megiste. Its convenience
to maritime war and commerce must have secured its importance
in every age j whence its mention in the narrative, by Livy t, of
the transactions of the Rhodian fleet against Antiochus, would
alone perhaps have been sufficient, without other evidence, to
identify Castel Rosso with Megiste, although the historian de-
scribes Megiste as a port only, not as an island. The anonymous
Periplus, or Stadiasmus, has accurately enumerated the islands
between Antiphellus and Patara, in the passage cited in a fol-
lowing Note. His Rhope and islands of Xenagoras are evi-
dently the Rhoge and Enagora of Pliny. Rhoge is now called
St. (leorge. The two islands of Xenagoras, now named Volo
and O'kliendra, are situated at the mouth of the bay of Kala-
mdki -y the situation of which harbour, two miles eastward of
the ruins of Patara, accords, no less than its steep rocky shore,
with the description of Port Phoenicus, from whence, in the
course of the operations against Antiochus, C. Livius made an
unsuccessful attempt upon Patara:!:.

* With a little correction it was as follows; but the beginning of
the third line still wants explanation :

SnSIKAHS NIKAPOTA
2AM 102 EII12TATn2A2
ENTEKA2TABI KAI EIII

Tor iiTPror tot ex me-
-riSTAi EPMAi HPonr-
-AAini XAPI2THPI0X

The Doric dialect maybe accounted for by Megiste being in posses-
sion, and probably a colony, of the Rliodii. I found the mins of a
Hellenic tower here, at the end of a small plain: perhaps the tower
mentioned in the inscription,
t Liv. 1. 37. c. 24y 25.

X Liv. 1.37. c. 16.*

Ch. 5

185

(6) Strabo is inaccurate in placing Antiphelhis among the
inland towns, h rp (livoyaia, in contradiction to Ptolemy,
Pliny, and the author of the Stadiasmus. There can be no
doubt of the ruins on the coast opposite to Castcl Rosso being
those of Antiphellus : the ancient name is still preser\'ed in
the corrupted form of Andifilo j at which place I distinguished
on many of the ancient tombs the word ’ Avri^gAAs/nj^, which is
found to be the ethnic adjective in Stephanus of Byzantium.

(7) The name of the Chelidonite insulae has been trans-
ferred to Cape Hiera, or the Sacred Promontory, which is now
called Cape Khelidhdni. The following is the description of
the coast betw*een Patara and the Sacred Promontory in the
Stadiasmus, which,, as I have already observed, travels in an
opposite direction to Strabo, or from east to west : —

’A^o Of TZs tv (rret^. A. (•*10.)

' Atto tig ruyetf ffretd. f. (60.)

’ A?ro df Tecficov (l<^. Troru/^otf) arah, J,(60.)

virs^ <rruh, (60.) xureit vohts ’ AX^y^ee Ket'hwfAtvm*

'Axo ’AlihetvivTTTfis (rou A^ftv^ov?) f<V to "Iff/ov x»?L 0 iifictif 0 M

ffTxh, (60.)

’Aero TOW *Wow TTi/flyot/ Aoq/uk^v areth. J. (60.)

’A^ro el; '!S.6fxviveiv aTot\ B.(4.)

’Axo 'SofAYiuecp si; ’Awe^Ticcf aruh. (60.)

’ Aoro ’ Ax^ 6 iti 70 /ow eig ’AvTi^fXXov oroeo. >. (•'>0.)

’ A^o' ’ Avt/^cXXow si; uijaov Msyttm/jp jrech. », («>0.)

A;rd McysffTjfjjr si; uijffop ’ Votyip oTetX. p. (50.)

Ard 'Voz-ti; si; tow Stpuyo^ov pviaovg vreto. t. (600.)

’A^d row Sspecyo^ov p^aap si; llecraoecp oToed. (60.)

The greater part of the distances towards the beginning of
this extract are quite unintelligible, Melanippe, however,
seems to accord with the bay on the north side of Cape Khe-
lidhdni. This place may possibly have been the port of Gagae,
which was a city of some celebrity and appears from Scylax
to have been near the coast, between Limyra and the Cheli-
doni». Being also named by Pliny t as near Olympus and

* Stephan. Byzant. with the Notes of Molstein.

T Oppiduin Olympus iibi fiiit, nunc sunt montana : Gajic, Cory

186

Ch. 5.

Corydalla^ — which last place^ according to the Peutinger Table^
was 29 miles from Phaselis on the road to Patara^ — ^the site of
Gags will accord very well with the ruins marked in Captain
Beaufort's survey at Aladj4^ five miles from the centre of the
Bay of Finika. Following the same direction into the interior,
we ought tolneet with the remains of Corydalla, coins of which
city are still extant. Rhodiopolis, also, called Rhodia by Ste-
phanus and Ptolemy, which Pliny names next to Corydalla,
and which Ptolemy enumerates together with Corydalla, among
the cities adjacent to Mount Masicytus, — would also probably
be found in the neighbouring part of the interior of Lycia *,
And here it may be observed, that the position of several of the
towns which Ptolemy enumerates around Mount Masicytus f,
are now determined with a degree of accuracy sufficient at least
to sliow the situation and extent of that mountain, a very lofty
projection of which separates the bays of Finika and Myra, un-
der the name of (/ape Finika.

Following the Stadiasmus to the westward, we cannot doubt
that his river Almyrus is a corruption of Limyrus, mentioned,
together with the town of Limyra, by Pliny and Stephanas, as
well as by Strabo. The remains of Limyra are found at Finika,
on the river which enters the bay of Finika at its western an-

clalla, Rhodiopolis. Jiixta mare Limyra cum amnc, in quern Arycan-
dus iiifliiit, et Mons Massycites, Andriaca^ civitas Myra. Oppida
Apyre, AiitiphcUiis, qure quondam llalicssus («/. Edehcssus) atquc in
rccessii Pliclliis. Deiiide Pyrrha itemqiie Xaiithiis a inari xv. M-P.
fliiinenqiie codem nomine. Dciiidc Patara, &c. Plin. Hist. Nat.
1, if, c. 27.

• The following fragment in honour of a person who had received
the rites of citizendiip in Rhodiopolis, Myra, and Phaselis, w'as found
by Mr. Cockerell in the ruins of Olympus at Deliktash.

OIIPAMOAN AHOAAnNIOr
AI2 TOT KAAAIA^OT POAIO
nOAEITHN KAI MTPEA (x«l)
t^ASHAEITHN

t The following arc the names in their order; — Corydalla, Saga-
l:is';u«, Rhodia, Trebenda (a/. xVrendap). Phelhis, Myra. *

Ch. 6. m

gle : not> however, at a distance of sixty stades from the river's
mouthy as the Sbuliosmus indicates^ but, as Strabo remarks, at
twenty. Some of the curious sepulchres inscribed in the Ly-
cian character and dialect, which Mr. Cockerell found here,
have been published by him in the 2d volume of Walpole’s
Collection (p. 524) . A stream which joins the sea close to the
mouth of the Limyrus, seems to be the Arycandiis of Pliny *,
which name we learn to have been that of a Lycian city, from
Hierocles, from Stephanus, and from the Scholiast of Pindar t,
who speaks also of a sacred place called Embolus in its vici-
nity. That Arycanda was in this part of the country, might be
presumed likewise from an inscription found by Mr. Cockerell J
at. Limyrji, in honour of a person who had acquired the rites of
citizenship at Arycanda and Olympus. Some vestiges of Ary-
canda, therefore, might possibly be found on the banks of
the river above mentioned. I am inclined to think that tlie
name of a town near Mount Masicytus, which in some of the
copies of Ptolemy is Tpi^svSa, and in others *ApevSat, ought to
be 'ApvKdy^cct. Pliny places Arycanda (perhaps improperly)
in Milyas.

In Captsiin Beaufort’s survey, we find the beach of Myra
i)ounded to the west by a small rocky cajx‘, ciilled Py rgo.
This seems to be the tower named Isium (slg llvpyoy ro ^lariov
KOLKoupavov) in the Stadiasimis ^ though in arriving at that con-
jecture we must overlook the distance from Andriacc there
stated. As to the distance of the same tower from Melanippe,
I take that word to have been a mistake of the co])ier of the
Stadiasmus for Limyrus : the repetition of Melanippe a second
time wins necessary, because Gaga; being an inland place, the
IVriplus w’as obliged to revert to Mclanij)pc : and this second

* Liinyra cum amne, in qucni Arycandus influit. Plin. Hist. Nat.
I. 5. c. 29.

f . . . . gy AvKtef, 06 hriu tfoThs W^VKayhu KuTiOVfAiuYi, '7r‘hr,uifjv /g-

n ’^arnovj o ytAv tKtt'hUTO Old rou ;(ai-

Schol. in IMndar. Olyinp. Od. 7^

X M'ATP'TOAAl^: Ali: OATM
IlIIXOl KAI ArXKANAEI2

188

Ch. 5.

repetition may have led to an erroneous repetition a third time ;
for it is to be observed that the total distance from Cape Hiera
to Andriace minus that from Melanippe to Gagae is correct.
And so is the distance ( 1 20 stades) from Limyrus to Andriace,
assuming the correction which I have mentioned.

To the wMtward of Andriace we have two ancient sites deter-
mined by inscribed sepulchres, which record the name of the city,
and the inscriptions upon which have been copied by Mr. Cocke-
rell*. — that of Cyana, or the city raJv KTANEITfiN, at the head
of Port Tristomo, as the inner part of the bay behind the island

of Kakava, is now called j and that of Aperlae, or the city

rm A FIEPA EITXIN at the head of Assar Bay. In our copies of
Pliny, the former name is written Cyane j in Hierocles and the
Notitiae Episcopatuum it is Cyaneae. The Stadiasmus has omit-
ted it, probably because it is at a considerable distance from the
open sea. Aperlae is erroneously written by Ptolemy Aperrae, by
Pliny Apyraej in the Notitiae the bishopric is styled *AirpiXAwy;
in Hierocles and the Stadiasmus we find the orthography correct.
The Somena of the Stadiasmus we can hardly doubt to be the
same place as the Simena mentioned as a Lycian city by Pliny
(1. 5. c. 27.)/ and by Stephamis. Simena is placed by the Sta-
diasmus at four stades to the westward of Andriace, precisely
in which situation we find some sepulchres marked in the sur-
vey of Captain Beaufort. A further examination of these mo-
numents might perhaps discover the name of Simena as that
of the ancient town which stood here.

(8) The Stadiasmus describes the places between Attaleia
and Cape Hiera as follows : —

’ Axo ' \TTeihfiets arui, k, (20.)

‘Axd TgvtSow t/f Av^ifeeyrx arxo. (60.) x/xg^ Tro^iSug

Q^oc vxi^KUTtti ex, ^e Oaca/A/So; trrad, {deett.)

'Axo Ku^vxov stI rov ^oiPtxwvrx trrx^. X. (30.) i/xg^ fAeyx o^og

KiiTMt "OXv^xo; KxTiOVfctPOP. Sfi ^xviTii^og evev^ttxg tig

^.(100.)

’Axd K^Xfic^ouertig M x^^^g Uoatix^taouvTog A. (30.)

* Axd Uoffihu^JffOUPTOg £xi xt/?k 0 V^eP 0 M arah. A. (30.)

*Axd Ma»^oD vhetrog gxi xxQxy xeti vijffop XeJn^oPtxp p*

(50.)

Ch. 5. 189

Captain Beaufort discovered the ruins of Olympus at Delik-
tash, and those of Phaselis at Tekrova ; the inscriptions at either
place leaving no doubt* of the identity. The opos in the
second paragraph of the above passage of the Stadiasinus, is
Mount Solyma^ which extends 70 miles to the northward, but
the highest part of which, now called Taghtalu, is immediately
above the ruins of Phaselis. From the third paragraph of the
preceding passage of the Stadiasmus compared with Strabo, it
appears that the names Phoenicus and Olympus were applied
indifferently, both to the city which stood at Deliktiish and to
the mountain above it. In the inscriptions, however, and in
the coins of this city, Olympus only occurs. In several of the
inscriptions found at Deliktash, the name of the people is
written OATNIIHNOI, in others, as well as on the existing
coins, it is OATMIlHNOl, anti thus also we find the name in
the ancient authors. Scylax, in the place of Olympus, names
the cape and harbour of Siderus * 3 and it cannot be doubted
that he meant the bay of Deliktash or Olympus 3 for he adds
that in the mountain above there was a temple of V^dcan, at
which there was a peqietual fire issuing from the earth, exactly
as Captain Beaufort discovered it, at a short distance above the
ruins of Olympus.

(9) Crambusa is an island still known by its ancient name,
slightly corrupted. It is probably the same as the Dionysia of
Scylax and Pliny.

( 10 ) Strabo in a subsequent passage (p. 071) remarks, that
ull Lycia, Pamphylia, and Pisidia, were visible from Mount
Olympus 3 and that upon it was the fortress of a celebrated pi-
rate named Zenicetus.

(11) The Corycus of the Stadiasmus corresponds exactly in
situation with that which Stralio describes as a coast {Kw^vnog
«*yaXoV) between Olympus and Phaselis 3 and Lyrnns is evi-

* Stephanus of Byzantium describes HiOetQov; as a city and har-
hour, hut he omits to add in what country it was situated.

190

Ch. 5,

flently the representative of Lyrnessus ; which Homer mentions
together with Thebe. According to Strabo, Thebe and Lyrnessus
were supposed to have been between Phaselis and Attaleia.

(12) Arrian (1. 1. c. 2G.) relates the same occurrence in the
following manner : Alexander moving from Phaselis, sent
part of his army through the mountain to Perge, the Thracians
pointing out the road, which was difBcult, but not long. 'Fhose
attached to his person, were led by himself along the sea-side.
This road cannot be used, except when the wind is northerly j
when the south wind blows, it is impracticable. When Alexander
arrived there, a north wind succeeding to violent south winds,
rendered the passage short and easy •, an accident which, by
Alexander and his court, was considered os having happened
by the interposition of some deity.**

The incident is well illustrated by the actual geography ^ for
the whole coast, from the ruins of Phaselis to the western corner
of the plain of Attaleia, consists of a lofty mountain, rising
abruptly from the shore. Arrian, in saying that the passage
was not long through the mountains from Phaselis into the
plains where Perge wns situated, .shows that there was a pass
in Mount Solyma not far from Attaleia j for Alexander w^as not
yet in possession of Termessus, which commanded the prin-
cipal pass of Mount Solyma, and the detour that way instead
of being short would have been very long.

(13.) The position of Olbia is still uncertain ; but as Strabo
and Ptolemy agree in placing it at the beginning of Pamphylia,
between Attaleia and the Lycian frontier, I am inclined to think
that its remains may still be found (especially if Strabo has
truly described it as a great fortress) in some part of the plain
which extends for seven miles from the modern Adalia to the
foot of Mount Solyma. Stephanas, who states tliat the name
is properly Olba, not Olbia, adds that it did not belong to
Pamphylia, but to the country of the Solymi — a strong pre-
sumption that it stood upon or at the foot of Mount Solyma.
As the Stadiosmus was a Periplus, the omission of Olbia is at
once explained, if we suppose it to have been situated at some

Ch.6.

191

distance from the coast : and as Captain Beaufort *s survey was
equally a Periplus^ the same circumstance would account for
the site of Olbia having eluded his researches. The following
is the description of the coast between Coracesium and Attaleia
in the Stadiasmus :

’Aird Ko^etKVittiou sig Auvviadif sri *Ap»^/op ureii. ir. (80.)

'Atto "Apcc^iap tU x.u,Mvf4.fP0P Avyug artfS. o. (70.)

’A^rd AvySp M etK^ariiQtQp AtvKo^uop arsed, v. (50.)

' A'To Afi/xodeioi; fig Ku^tQvatv areed. v. (50.)

’ A^rd Ku^eQPifig svl ’ Agrsfe/do; uetou araed. u. (50.)

’ A^d ' A^TifAihag yoLw efri Torctfcop vy^arop MiJiUPOP oreed. 6. (9.)

« * «

Aotvop IletfA<pu'Kist.

Awd TOW Me7vflei>of voreifAou ug S/dijv ar«d. p. (50.)

« • •

’A^rd S/d)?^ ih 2chfVK€tetp arot^, -r. (80.)

' Avo 'lihiVKuetg tig crorae^da xAairdv xuhovfAtPOP 'Ev^v^toopret areio.

eOOo.)

’A^d Kwvoa^g/ow M 'xoroifAOp KeiXovfieuop Kearodv araid. J. (GO.)
dvet'^r'htvaetPTt tqp ^orae/edv voT^tg hrl row Ksar^ow txi ' Wvo-

%oVodae.

’Ard ' PowaxoVodoj ixl Mccffou^ecp kxI roug KxrapgecKTcc; aroed. p.

(50.)

' \xo Mxaov^xg tig Mwyd«A>Ii» arced, o. (70.)

A^rd Mwyd«A«» tig ' Ar'rxhuxp araed. /. (10.)

(14.) Pomponius Mela gives a similar description of the
Catarrhactcs : — Delude duo validissimi fluvii, Cestros ct Ca-
tarrhactes : C^estros navigari facilis , hie quia se prsec'ipitat ila
Uictus. Inter eo.s, Perga est oppiduin." The Stadiasmus af-
fords a still more accurate allusion to its ])rescnt .state^ by using
the plural roCg Kara/Jpaaraj, the Cataracts. The river on ap-
proaching the coast divides itself into several branches^ which
in falling over the cliO's that border the coast from La;ira to
.Adalia, form upon their upper part a ma.ss of calcareous dejio-
sition, projecting considerably beyond the perpendicular line of
the cliffs. ITirough the calcareous crust, the water makes its
way to the sea j and being thus separated into several streams
by a natural process, which has been rapidly increasing in its
operation in the course of time, the river has now no determi-

n.'ite mouth (as it may perhaps have had in former ages), unless
it be after heavy rains, when, as I saw it in passing along the
coast, it precipitates itself copiously over the cliffs near the
most projecting point of the coast a little to the west of Laara.
Besides this natural peculiarity which divides the Catarrhactes
into many branches, its main stream is further diminished by
the derivations which turn the mills and supply water to the
gardens and town of Addlia.

(15) lam aware that this passage has been differently in-
terpreted. The words of Strabo are these : Elm ^Arroi-
ETtcvyviAOf rov x.rlo'xvrog kol) olKKravtog slg

Kw^uxov oroXip^viov aXXijv xaroixiav o^Lopov yta) ftixpov irepi^oXov
irept^avrog. Th.at the meaning of the geographer was that which
I have given, seems confirmed by Demetrius, as quoted by Ste-
phanas in the following words, in which, however, he has mis-
named Cilicia for Pamphylia: *Arrci\eia ol Se tr^v

KiXixixg ILwpvMy ovrcu Xsyeo-Qat, cog j^Tjp^iirpiog* dvo

'ArrdXov ^i?^a,SiX<pQu Kricravtog avr-r^v. It seems, therefore,
that Attains sent a colony to occupy the shore of the harbour
of Adalia, near a small town then called Corycus ; that Coiycus
also received a part of the colony, and that he inclosed that town
and his new settlement within the same walls. The passage of
Strabo is further illustrated by Suidas, (in KwpvxaTog,) who says
that Corycus was a cape of Pamphylia, where Attalera was built :
Ktu^VKog ydp rrjg ^apu(pvXlag aKpujryjpm leap tv itoXig *ArrdX£iOL,

Captain Beaufort expresses his conviction that the modern
Adalia stands on the site of Olbia 5 and he places Attaleia at
some ancient ruins, which he discovered at Laara, to the east-
ward of the Catarrhactes. D’Anville, as well as M. (Josselin
(See the new French translation of Strabo, 1. 14. c. 4.), are of a
similar opinion. This opinion is founded entirely upon the
order of names in Strabo, though he is contradicted by the
evidence of Ptolemy of the Stndiasmus, and of the modern

• The order of names in Ptolemy on this coast is, Phaselis, Olbia,
Attalia, the month of the Catarrhactes, Mag}'dis, the mouth of the
(\'stnis, the month of the Eiirymcdon, Side. Ptol. I. 5. c. 5.

name of Adiilia. To me it appears that the ruins at Laara,
whose position possesses no advantages adapted to the seat of
a colony, are too inconsiderable for those of a city, the impor-
tance of which may be traced from the time of its Pergamenian
founder, through the history of the Greeks, Romans, Crusaders,
and Byzantines, down to the Turkish conquest of Constanti-
nople, without any indication or probability of a change of
situation. Adalia possesses all the natural advantages likely
to have made it the chief settlement of the adjacent country,
when the power of Asia became embodied under the successors
of Alexander. The walls and other fortifications — the magni-
ficent gate or triumphal arch, bearing an inscription in honour
of Hadrian — the aqueduct — the numerous fragments of sculp-
ture and architecture— the inscribed marbles found in many
parts of the town — the Episcopal church, now converted into a
mosque — the European coats of arms seen upon this church
and upon the city walls — and lastly, the bishopric of Altalela
' ArraXiloLs) t of which Adalia is still the see — appear to
me incontrovertible evidences of identity *. In regard to the
names Adalia and Satalia applied to the place by the '1 urks and
Italians respectively, it may not be unworiliy of observation
tliat they are both taken immediately from the (Jreek; the
fnrmcr from the nominative or accusative case (ij ’ArraAfia, or
(TTijv ’ArraAtf^v), which were the forms most frequently used
by the Greeks in speaking of the town itself j the latter from
the genitive case (r-^j ’ArraXei'a^), this Vicing perhajis th(‘ case
wlfich the Italian navigators are chiefly in the habit of hearing
the Greeks employ in speaking of the gulf or port (of the xo5-
^ 5 ; or TTopros TTfS ' hrroL}s£l7.g). The great diireroncc of sound
in the two modern words hits been the necessary consequence
of the difference between the accent of the gen. case of the
(ireek word, and that of the nom. or acc. The Turkish name
Ad.ilia is precisely the (Jreek, except that the Turk.s have hard-
ened the tt into d.

The vestiges of an ancient towm and port, which Captain

• Voyage au Levant, par C. Lehruyn, c. 7-1. \oyage en firicc,
par Paul Lucas, tom. 3. c. Xi. RcaufortV Karatuania, c. fj.
ItincTiiirc de TAsic Minciire, par Corance/, I. 4. c.

o

Beaufort observed at Laara^ answer to the Magydus of Ptolemy,
a place which flourished under the Byzantine Empire, and was
a bishopric of the province of Pamphylia*. The Masura of
the Stadiasmus, and the Md(n^hs of Scylax, appear to be the
same place as Magydus.

( 16 ) Although the ancient geography of the coast of Pam-
phylia cannot be thoroughly illustrated until the position of its
chief towns is examined and ixscertained, there seems little
doubt that the four rivers mentioned by Strabo, — namely the
Oestrus, the Eurymedon, a third river not named with islands
before it, and the Melas, — are accurately fixed by the survey of
Captain Beaufort .and the route of General Koehler, confronted
with Strabo, the Stadiasmus, Zosimus t> and Pomponius Mela
The Oestrus is that wdnch General Koehler crossed at two hours
to the west of Stavros, and the ruins which he had on his left
hand in crossing it seem to be those of Perge. The Eurymedon
is called Kapri-su, a name derived from the ancient city of
Oapria, which, as well as can be understood from the imperfect
text of Strabo, stood at the distance of about two miles from
the sea, upon the banks of a lake of the same name, which oc-
cupies a part of the maritime region between the Eurymedon
and Oestrus. The name of Kapri has, by a process not un-
common, been transferred from the lake or city .to the neigh-
bouring river Eurymedon. The remains of Aspendus ought to
be found at six or eight miles from the mouth of the Eurymedon,
on a lofty precipitous height on the banks of the river §. Higher
up was Pednelissus. But the most interesting discovery in this
part of the country would be Selge, a colony from Laconia,
situate on the frontiers of Pisidia and Pamphylia, in a very fer-
tile district, difficult of approach, in the upper regions of Mount
Taurus, near the sources of the Cestrus and Eurymedon |).

* llierocl. Synced. — Notit, Episc. Grscc.

t lib. 6. c. 16. X lib. 1. c. 14.

§ Pomp. Mcl. 1. 1. c. 14. Arrian. Exp. Alex. 1. 1. c. 27.

|j Strabo, ]). 570. Polyb. 1. 5. c. 7^^. Dionys, Perieg. v. SoS.
An*ian. lib. 1. c. 28. Zosiin. I. 5. r. 15.

Ch.

195

(17) There can be little doubt that tlie river without a name
here mentioned, is that which is marked on the map between
Side and the Eurymedon^ although instead of any islands be-
fore it^ nothing Is now seen but some rocks below or even with
the water’s surface. In proceeding by sea from Alaya to Castel
Rosso^ I remained for two or three days in the mouth of this
river, in a two-masted vessel of Alaya of about .50 tons. It is
the only river which affords shelter, or even entrance to a boat;
the Ccstrus and Eurymedon, although much larger streams,
being now closed by bars. It is very probable that the remains
of Syllejum would be found upon the banks of this river, for
which we have no name either ancient or modern j for Sylleium
appears both from Scylax and Arrian * to have been situate
between Side and the Eurymedon ^ and ns it continued to be a
place of importance under the Byzantine empire, and became
the principal bishopric of the province of Pamphylia upon the
decline of Perge, and superior even in rank to Attaleia i , 1 have
little doubt that its site might be ascertained. According to
the Stadinsmus, there stood also between Side and the Eury-
medon one of the numerous places named Seleuceia. This
may perhaps have been the port of Sylleium. The relative
distance.^ of the Stadiasmus, which are tolerably correct on this
j)art of the coast, would place Seleuceia in the bay to the east-
ward of the nameless river. At the mouth of that river I did
not observe any remains of antiquity.

(18) The fine ruins of Side have been described by Captain
Beaufort. Its site is decisively fixed by the inscriptions found
there. Tlie extensive moles and artificial harbours, of which
the remains still exist, illustrate the remark of Strabo, that
Side w^as the chief port and place of construction of the piratic
fleets • and its magnificent theatre, 400 feet in diameter, indi-
cates that under the more civilised government of the Roman.s
it still continued to be the chief city of this coast. Though the
Turks are so ignorant as to give it the name of Eski Adfilia

* Scylax Perip. Pamphylia. Arrian, 1. 1. c. 26.

t HicrocI.Syiiecd. — (Tdiistantin.Porph.deThcin. — Notit.Episcop.

196

Ch.5.

(Old Attiileia), the name of Side was not unknown to their
gegraphers 1 oO years ago, being mentioned by Hadji Khalfa.
The (ireeks give the name of Uakaid ’krraXeia to the ruins of
Perge.

(19) There can be no doubt that the Melas is the river now
called Menavgat-su, for Zosimus and Mela* agree in showing
its proximity to Side. Strabo, Mela, and the Stadiasmus, all
place it to the eastward of Side; and the distance of 50 stades
in the Stadiasmus between the Melas and Side, is precisely that
which occurs between the ruins of Side and the mouth of the
river of Menavgat.

(’ape Karaburnu being the most remarkable projection upon
this coast, seems to be the promontory Leucotheius of the
Stadiasmus, although the modern name implies black and the
ancient white. The situation of Karaburnu relatively to Cora-
ccsium and the Melas, agrees also with that of Leucotheius
with regard to the same jdaces in the Stadiasmus. It is pro-
bably the same as the (7ape Lcucolla of Pliny f.

If the Kv^epvac of the Stadiasmus is the same as the Little
Cibyra of Strabo, as we can hardly doubt, there is a manifest
disagreement between the two authorities in regard to the po-
sition of its territory. It is probable that the text of Strabo is
in fault, and that in the order of names the coast of Lesser Ci-
byra should follow instead of preceding the Melas 3 for it is
difTicult to bclieviC that any other territory should have been
interposed between that of so large a city as Side and a river
which was only four miles distant from it. The vestiges of
(.ibyra are probably those observed by Captain Beaufort upon
a height which rises from the right bank of a considerable river
about 8 miles to the eastward of the Melas, about 4 miles to
the westward of Cape Karaburnu, and nearly 2 miles from the
shore. Ptolemy X places Cibyra among the inland towns of

* rot/ MkXotvo; Kui rou ay 6 /asv ivtKUuet hettatiutt

rii; 0 dfe- huppii TK ’Affz-iyda, Zosiin. 1. 5. c. 1(5. — Pomp. Mel.
I. i. c. 14.

t Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 27.

J Geograph, lib. 5. c. 5.

Ch. 5. 197

Cilicia Tracheia 5 Scylax names it its a city of Pamphylia^ near
Coracesium.

The 200 statics of the Stadiasmus between Coracesium and
Leucotheius, accord tolerably well with the 16 G. M. of the map
between Alayii Coracesium and Kaniburna : and although the
relative distances of the two ancient ruins which occur in this
interval do not vtrv accurately agree with the two places men-
tioned in that Periplus, I am inclined to consider the eastern-
most of the ruins as Anaxia, and the westernmost (which is on
a cape) as Augae. The meaning of t!ie Stadiasmus seems to
be, that Anaxia was not 011 the coast, and that it had a port
called Aunesis, — circumstances which exactly agree with the
ruins nearest to Alaya. 1 greatly suspect also that the Anaxia of
the Periplus is the Ilamaxiaof Strabo, and that the geographer
has erroneously placed that town to the eastward of Coracesium,

(20) As no other author makes mention of this Ptolemais,
and as its name is not found in the JStudiasmus, it may be con-
jectured that I'tolemais did not stand upon the coast, but occu-
pied, perhaps, the situation of the modern town of A'lara, wlierc
is a river, and upon its banks a steep hiJI crovvneil with a
Turkish castle.

(21) The testimonies of Strabo, Ptolemy, Scylax, and the
Stadiasmus, concur in placing (’oracesiiim at Aluya, the extra-
ordinary situation of which town upon a rocky promontory,
precipitous on one side and on the other extremely steep, is
well suited to that fortress, which alone held out against Anti-
ochus the Great, when all the other places on the coast of
('ilicia had submitted to his aims Coracesium was one of
the positions which particularly insisted in supporting the spirit
of piracy upon this coast 3 and it was the last at which the pirates
ventured to make any united resistance to the fleet of Pompey,
before they separated and retired to their strong holds in Mount
Taurus. For the history of the pirates the reader may consult
Strabo, the Mithridatic war of A|)pian, (who gives an account

iJv. I. c. 20.

198

Ch. 5.

of their reduction by Pompey,) and Plutarch’s life of the same
Roman commander. Their long success was owing to the
commodious ports and strong positions of the coasts to the
strength of Mount Taurus behind, and to the frequent disputes
of the kings of Cyprus, Egypt, and Syria, among one another
and with the Romans j which made it occasionally the interest
of every party to support the Cilician cities in piracy and inde-
pendence. Thus, like the Barbary states in the present day,
the opportunity was afforded them of collecting plunder and
captives from every vessel and shore that was unable to resist
them. The sacred island of Delus became the entrepot of their
trade j and the increasing luxury of the Romans gave en-
couragement to their commerce in slaves.

(22) Lucan * calls Syedni a port. Floras dcscribc.s it .as a
desertum Cilicioe scopulum j yet its copper-coins are not un-
common t 5 it probably shared with Coraccsium a fertile plain
which here borders the coast, and stretches for ten miles to the
eastward of the latter place.

(23) I have already observed that I am inclined to prefer the
testimony of the Stadiasmu*!, as to the site of Hamaxia, to that
which Strabo has here given : for notwithstanding the fn quent
interruptions, false spellings, and false distances in the Periplus,
the order of names in a work of that description is more to be
depended upon than in Strabo. Unfortunately, llumaxia is
not mentioned by any other author.

(24) The following is the description in the Stadiasmus of
the coast between Anemurium and Coracesium.

’Aero us \lhot,rot9w»Tgr arad. (350). Error.

'Aero lI^XToetfoi/9Tos fis erroeo. ri/. (350). Error.

Be 'KuQohQOv KsiTctt ooos fciyet ''AvBoox.o; Kec7<ov/A€»os

oroiH. X. (30.)

’Awd TOW XuqxIqou M ;^fi»j/ov K^uyost KeiXovj^gvov oTseo. (100).

* Pharf^al. lih. S. v. m

f Eckhcl, Doct. Niim. Vet. Cilicia.

Ch. 5. 199

’A^o rov K^ciyov iri M ^aTiXcraij;, Zt^gX/ovg (lege
aret^, xf. (25).

*A^o Tov Ze^e?i/ov «xi oLx,^ctv Si^atec^ovai/Ji ffret^, t, (80).

'Avo Nt]ff/ec^oi^¥is KKoets etg 'Se>n»ouuTX (ttxI. q, ( 100 ).

* * *

'Ato AxtQTOU its Ko^XK^ff/OU ffTX^, f. (100).

The distance between Selinus and Laertes is wanting ; which,
as it deprives us also of the whole number of slades between
Anemurium and Coracesium, deducts very largely from the in-
formation contained *in this passage of the Stadiasmus, where,
moreover, there are great errors in some of the separate distances.
Neither Syedra nor Hamaxiaare mentioned ; but the other names
are the same as in Strabo and in the same order, with the ad-
dition of Cape Nesiazusa, which is not mentioned by any other
author, and of Cape Nephelis, which ticcording to Livy * was
the station of the fleet of Antiochus the Cireat, when having
reduced the cities of Cilicia as far as Selinus inclusive, he was
employed in the siege of Coracesium, and wlicre he received
the ambassadors of the Rhodii.

The preservation of the ancient names of Selinus, Charadrus,
and Anemurium, renders it easy to fix the principal places on
the line of coast between Alaya and Anamur. If we allow any
weight to the evidence of the distances in the preceding pas-
sage of the Stadiasmus, the situ of Laertes was at some ruins
on a hill near the shore, 9 G. M. direct from Alaya, and 13-2^
from the ruins of Selinus, or Trajanopolis, at Selinti. Cragus,
the Antiocheia super Crago of Ptolemy (1. 5. c. 8.), who places
it next to Selinus eastward, is found about half way between
Selinus and Charadrus on a steep hill rising from the shore,
which exactly corresponds with the description of Oagus by
Strabo. Nephelis appears from the distance in the Stadiasmus
to have been the promontory two or three miles to the west-

♦ Livy (1. 33. c. 20.) says: “Xcplielida promontorium Cilicia?, in-
clitum foedcre antique Atlicnicnsiuiii.” What treaty this was it is
difficult to discover — not the treaty of Ciinon with the Persians;
for according to that, the Chelidoiiian promontory was the jjoint
beyond which the Persians were forbidden to sail.

200

Ch. 5.

ward of the same place. But in this case Ptolemy has impro-
perly inserted Nephelis between Antiocheia and Anemurium.
It seems not improbable that Antiocheia was founded or named
by Antiochus, when he chose the bay of Nephelis for the station
of his fleet in his operations against the Cilician fortresses.
According to Appian (Mithrid. c. 9fi.) there was a fortress of
Anticragus, as well as of Cragus. In regard to Platanus, Cap-
tain Beaufort remarks, that “between the plain of Selinti and
the promontory of Anamur, a distance of 30 miles, the ridge of
bare rocky hills forming the coast is interrupted but twice by
narrow valleys which conduct the mountain torrents to the sea.
The first of these is Khiiradra 3 th/ other is half way between
tliat place and Anamilr.” The latter seems therefore to be the
Platanus of the Stadiasmus : in comparing which authority wjth
Strabo and with the map, it would appear that Platanus gaVe
the name of Platanistus to the whole coast between CMiiiradrus
and Anemurium, and that the distance of Platanus from either
place in stades should be iv (150) instead of rv (350).

(25) These two numbers, namely, 820 stades from Coracc-
sium to Anemurium, and 500 stades from Anemurium to Soli,
are obviously incorrect 3 nor would they be very accurate if they
w-ere to change places, the distance from Coracesium to Ane-
murium being about 50 geographical miles in direct distance,
and that from Anemurium to Soli near 100.

(26) Nagidus, a colony of the Samii *, appears from its
silver coins t to have been anciently one of the chief cities upon
this coast : it probably declined in proportion as the neighbour-
ing position of Anemurium (which was better adapted to be one
of the fortresses and ports of the pirates) rose into importance.
The two theatres, the aqueduct, and other ruins at Anemurium,
all show that it chiefly flourished under the Homans. The site
of Nagidus appears to have been on the hill above the castle of
Anamdr

The river Aiymiagdus, placed by Ptolemy between Anemu-

* Pompon. Mcl, lib, 1. e. 13. f Sec Eckhcl, Hunter, &c.

Ch. 5.

201

rium and Arsinoe^ seems to be the same as the Lahissis^ which^
according to Pliny, flowed from Isauria into the sea of Ane-
murium*. The name of Lalassis was applied also to the
country on the banks of this river. Ptolemy mentions Nineia,
as the only town which it contained. Tlie river is now called
the Direk-Ondasi j it joins the coast at the castle of Aniunur,
five miles north-eastward of Cape Annmiir.

The following are the places between Celcndcris and Ane-
rourium according to the Studiasmiis :

KiKsy}iiQ€ug tig ( 100 ).

’Awo Macifhecuifig tv ccK^uTTiQiou lloffslZtov Kx>iQUfcttfo» vtuZ. f. (/).

'Atto ivi rec: Aioifvaio^uvovg c-ratB. A. (iJO).

’Aro Atouvan^xyov; si; Vvyfcxsfou; ((|ii. W^ufcocyhov;?) artsB.

'lA^ro Pvy/xxi/aiif si; ' Ausfiou^iov arud. v, (‘'>0).

Notwithstanding the distortion of names in this passage,
yet as the two extreme places preserve their ancient aj)pel-
lations, and the amount of distance 21)7 stades corresponds with
the 2G G. M. of the map, we may place some confidence in the
intermediate positions. The fifty stades of the Stadiasinus be-
tween Hhygmanaand Anemuriiim accord with the real dislance
between the cape of Ananiur and the castle of Anamiir, which
stands at the mouth of the ArymJigdus : it is probable therefore
that Pyy.aava is an error fur ’A^y/xayBo;. Nor cun it well be
doubted that the promontory Poseidium is the cape now called
Kizliman, this being t!ie only remarkable headland between
Anemurium and Celenderis, and the d’stances in the Stadias-
mus according very accurately wdth the reality. According to
an emendation of Saumaise, who wms not accjuainted with this
corroborating passage of the Jitiidiasmus, Scylax also makes
mention of the promontory of Poseidium.

(27) The Arsinoc here mentioned by Strabo is the only
place in Ptolemy between ll'ic mouth of the Arvmagdus and
Celenderis : it is named also by Pliny, Stephanus, and the
geographer of Ravenna, the last of whom in giving tlie names
in this order, Anemurium, Arsinoe, Sic®, Celenderis, corrobo-

* Pliii. Hist. Silt. lib. o. lap. i?7.

202

Ch. 5.

rates Strabo and Ptolemy, and justifies us in placing Arsinoe
at or near the ruined modern castle called Sokhta Kalesi, below
which is a port such as Strabo describes at Arsinoe, and a penin-
sula on the east side of the harbour covered with ruins. The
relative distances in the Stadiasmus place Dionysiophanae at the
same spot. ’ Possibly this may have been the name of the har-
bour or peninsula, and Arsinoe may have stood upon the hill
of Sokhta K^lesi. The name of Syce or Sycea, the Sic® of the
geographer of Ravenna, is found as a Cilician town in Athe-
nmuK * and Stephanus of Byzantium ; and if the emendation of
Scylax by Gronovius may be followed, it was very near the pro-
montory Poseidium. — Perhaps it possessed the fertile valley ly-
ing on the east side of the hills which end in Cape Kizliman.

One cannot but suspect at first sight that the Man dan e of
the Stadiasmus is the same place as the Melania of Strabo.
The seven stacles however of the Stadiasmus place Mandane
very near Poseidium to the eastward. On the other hand there
is a small bay only two or three miles to the westward of
Kel^inderi, where Cajitain Beaufort remarked some vestiges of
antiquity : it remains doubtful therefore whether the distance in
the .Stadiasmus is correct, and whether Melania and Mandane
were the same, or different places.

(28) As the Sttidiasmus does not mention any distance be-
tween the Gulf of Berenice and Celenderis, there is reason to
think that Berenice was the name of the Ihijj to the eastward of
the little por/ of Kelendcri. The following are the names ami
distances of the places in the Stadiasmus between the mouth of
the Calycadnus and the Gulf of Berenice :

*A?ro rou •^orufjtov {^cW, Ku'KukuZvov') ecjxfitaovi

‘TTeZoiftXV KOthaVfAiVnV, TT, (80.)

'Av uuT'^; uvetreivop ag tizro 2»^^f00if/ccc arai. x,

w ^ ^ ^

’A^o TVf xxoacg eyyfiTTec Kvtt^ov eig •Ki’Ktv Kx^zrecff/ov «6>-

r»T0v (TTccd. V. (400.)

’A TO Sec^vfdosf/xg cixo»g fie SsAei/xc/Mv (rret^, ^x. (120.) c^oiag xau
fi; ^tahovg (leg. 'Oo^ovj sive 'OA^oi/^) vreih, ^x (120.)

* Athcn. 1. 3. c. 5.

Ch. 5. 203

* Awo ds W dKqety Ktti Ka'KwfAivmjt Ali/Xte; /tc.

(40.) ^ ^ ^

*A^o MK^ug M T^ifAtwx Njjffoi/>i/ov xu,l dx^up sTipiffiUP aru^. J.
(60.)

’A^o r^S dxQxg £xi xfi^Qiou ^tT^ctiuv aruo. k. (20.) Oi vapng auro
'M.vT^.oiiap TOP ivtrofAaUi vrec^, (p, (500.)

’Azro r^g <l>iKBiioig t'z-l p^trop UtTvouaetp arett. gA. (130.) ’A 7 rf;C*^ q
JliTvou7ec ecTTo Xsppopiaov rji Trqog t^p Mi/Ajj areth, *. (.20.)

’ Awo T»P dxQCJP T^gUiTVOlKTing HTQOg T^P* ApQohtoiuhyiPPTetl. ptf. (45.)
' Avo ' Ap^ohtffid'hog tK rup wtapvpt,ap vpteip t^fip rijp llirvovaxp ivi
x-v^yop xe/ficepop Tr^og dxQUP i VQOffOPopcx^frxi Zepfu^iop arxh. pt. (40.)
*A^o Tou Zzpv^iov dxQUP xxi vohip ' Acp^f^iaMx otx^, (40.)
' Attq Bg rijg ISx^x’fdep/xg dtxQxg fig * ApQootaix^x 6 vTicvg tTi n^p
XX ZidiP aTx6, (1.20.) II hi Ap^ohiateig xurxt fyyiarx r^g

KvTTQOV ‘JTQOg TI^P AuAiSpX UKTl/iP KUTCC ^^VpCPXP f^Ol/aX T^Og TCt

T^g u^xTQv arxo, (p, (500.)

’A^o * Ap^oOiOixhog 67rl yfii^iou xxAQVfxfPQp otm, Af» (35.)

’A^o IVl^Aeevo^ •T^oTXpt.au ixi dxnxp Kfixuuwg aruo. fjt,» (40.)

*A^o TUP Kqxvpup fvi rx Ihaou^y/x fOupvpcx t^^oprx t'^p K^ecpc-
Qovaxp <rrxh, pcs, (45.)

’Atto T^<r ^ ApQohaixhog gri tx TIiaouQytx orxh, qk, (120.)

’ Atto tup JTtffovQyiap eig xoAtop lis^pixfip (liif', iifQfuUnp) vruo. p, 50,
’Atto KsAspoe^sag fig Mxphxp^v vrxh. (100). &c.

(29) Although there is not much to be learnt from the pre-
ceding passage of the Studiasmus, one very im])ortunt point is
settled by it. The long sandy promontory of Lis.san El Kahpeh
is so accurately described by the words ancciy vrspr^v, as

to leave no doubt of its identity with Sarpedonia, celebrated ns
being the place beyond which the ships of Antiochus the Great
were forbidden to sail by his treaty with the Romans *. Strjibo

* In the copy of the treaty in Polybius (1. .22. c.2d.) (Jape Caly-
cadnus is mentioned as the jiuiiit. ‘x-y^uTaxrxp ijs-i rxof. tqv Kx-

Avxxhpov ecKQurn^ioUf si pc^ p6qovg •nnin^.ug ^ 6fxr,ri(iVg xyotfp. In the
Latin copy of the treaty in Livy(I.3H. c.38.) both capes arc mentioned.
" Neve navigatio citra Calycadnum neve Sarpedonem promontoria”
&c. Appian, who has given the substance only of the treaty, names
also both the capes: "'O^op pesp \\pTi6)c(p r^g npxi Jt/o dxnxg

KxAvxxhpop Tf p,xi 'ZxQ'Tr^joptop. Appian Syr. c. 39.

204

Ch. 5.

has therefore justly described the mouth of the Calycadnus
iis occurring after turning Cape Sarpedon to the eastward ;
and the same relative situation of the places is indicated as
well by the Stadiasmus, as by Ptolemy, whose names are in
the following order : Celcrideris, Aphrodisias, Sarpedon, the
mouth of the Calycadnus, Zephyrium, Corycus. Although
Ptolemy here describes the mouth of the Ciilycadnus and Ze-
phyrium as separate places, I believe them to have been the
same, and that Cape Zephyrium was nothing more than the re-
markable projection of the sandy coast at the mouth of that ri-
ver 3 for Polybius, Livy, and A])pian, all speak of Calycadnus as
a cape, and the two latter jis a cape different from Sarpedon ;
it can hardly be doubted therefore that the projection at tlie
mouth of the river was meant by them. In corroboration of this
opinion, it is to be observed that the Stadiasnius does not notice
any Zephyrium on this part of the coast, but names only the
mouth of the Calycadnus at 80 stades to the caul of Sarpedonia,
which is nearly the distance of the moulli of the Ghiuk Su from
Lissan El Kahpeh. Pliny in like manner omits Cape Zephy-
rium, stating the order of names (from K. t^) W.) as follows :
“ Corycus eodem nomine oppidum et portus et specus 3 mox
flumen Calycadnus, promontorium Sar])edon, oj)pida Holme,
Myle promontorium et oppidum Veneris, a (pio proximo Cyprus
insula."

The Aphrodisias or city of Venus which Piolcmy here names,
although unnoticed by Strabo, is mentioned by StephAnus, by
Diodorus +, and by Livy i 3 from tlie last of whom it appears
to have ranked in the time of Antiochus the Cireat among the
chief towns of the coast. Its position, as indicated by Pliny,
agrees with that ascribed to it by Ptolemy and the Stadlasmus 3
and it ap})eiifs from their joint authority to have been situated
between Celenderis and Sarpedon, on or very near a promon-
tory, also called Ai)hrodisias, which lay about north of Cape
Aulion the north-eastern e.xtremity of Cyprus. These data, how-
ever precise, are not sufficiently so to decide the question be-

* Plin. Hist. Nat. I. 5. c. t Diodor. Sic. I. 19. c. (51.

J Liv. Hist. Nat. I. .T5. c. CO.

Ch. 5.

205

tween two adjacent capes on the coast westward of Sarpedon ;
and the confused account of the places in the Stadiasmus does
not inspire much confidence in that authority. We perceive,
however, that the Stadiasmus accords with Strabo and Pliny in
naming Holmi as the first place to the westward of Cape Sar-
pedon, and Pliny confirms the Stadiasmus in placing Mylm
between Holmi and Aphrodisias. Mylse in the SUidiasmus is
called a Cape and Chersonese, a description precisely appli-
cable to Cape Cavaliere, which is a peninsula connected with
the continent by a very narrow isthmus. 1 am inclined to
think, therefore, that cape Cavaliere was Mylm, that the cape
near the Papadula rocks was the promontory of Venus, and
that some vestiges of the town of Aphrodisias would be found
near the harbour behind the cape. Captain Beaufort informs
us that he did not observe many remains of Grecian anti(|uitv
on this part of the coast j they were probably converted into
new buildings by the Crusaders, many marks of whose resi-
dence are found here, and among others the names of ('avaliere
and Provencal attached to the most remarkable cape and
island *, The island of Proven 9 al, called by the Turks Mena-
vat, is probably the Pityussa of the Stadiitsmus ; for the Papa-
dilla islands, consisting of several small rocks, would hardly
have been described by a Cireek word in the singular. Holmi,
the ancient residence of the people of Seleuceia before the
time of its foundation by Seleucus Nicatorf, was probably at

• Among other places on this coast taken possc''.s!i>n of by the
Knights of St. .John were three fortresses, consigned to their care
about the year liJOO by Pope Innoeent IIJ., who hud received them
from Leo king of Armenia, on the oecusion of his coronation ami
acknowledgment of the Latin church. "J'he ancient Armenian in.
scriptions still existing at Korgos and Selefkc*, render it prol)ablc
that these were two of the fortresses. See Beaufort’s Karamaniu,
pp. 220 , 24ri.

d* Stephanus (in SgAsi/xe/ee) says that this Seleuceia was formerly
called Olbia : which appears to be a mistake, arising from the simi-
larity of the names Olbia; and Holmi. Strabo is confirmed by Pliny
(1. 5. c. 27 .), who says, “ Selcucia supra amnein C alyeadnuin, Trachi-
otis cognomiue, a iiiiu-e rclata, ubi vocabatur Honnia ’’(Holmia).

206

Ch. 5.

Aghalirndn^ the modern port of Sel^fke. The observation of
the Stadiasmus, that the distances were equal between Cape
Sarpedonia and Seleuceia^ and between the same promon-
tory and Holmi, will be found accurate when applied to Agha-
liman and Seldfke^ relatively to the extreme point of the
sandhills above the low sandy cape of Lissan el Kahpeh : for
it may easily be credited that the point of the sandhills was
the extreme cape at the date of the Stadiasmus 3 at which time
the long low spit may have been the shoals which that au-
thority notices as extending twenty stades beyond Sarpedonia.
The distance, however, of 120 stades from Sarpedon to Seleu-
ceia and to Holmi will be found too great, when measured from
the point of the sandhills to Selefke and Aghaliman.

Hie river which joins the sea at the bottom of the Bay of
Papadula, being the largest stream on the part of the coast
under consideration, seems to be the Melas of the Stadiasmus 3
and the cape which lies midway between that stream and Ce-
lenderis may possibly be the Crauni of the same authority. The
other places mentioned in the Stadiiismus, I shall not pretend
to determine, but proceed to extract from it the names of the
places on the whole extent of the coast of Cilicia Campestris,
writh their respective distances. As this authority proceeds in
a contrary direction to Strabo, it will be found more con-
venient to examine the entire passage relating to the coast
of Cilicia before we continue the immediate reference to
the text of Strabo, followed in the numbers attached lo these
Notes.

'A^o ilg recg KtT^tKiXi u, (200.) 0/

vnvr^g Jlec?iTov Sag rau K/A/x/W Trt/Xwxf areih, (2500.)

AoiTTOV KtTiiXtOt,

'Avo rSv KtT^txtav iig to ' aret^. (120.) tovto iarh

eig rou to^ov ug nvoKiv,

’Aro' rou ' Uqou sig rzoKtt ' AfAivftov areco. tf/, (700.)

’ A^o 'Afxtwou iig rdg ' AfAy(.ain»Kdg (leg. Af4,uuiyMg) •rrvhctg hr xof
Aorflerov rou xoAxov (xrsti. (6.)

'Ato rSy crv?i£if fig xa/utjjf "AaAjjj^ erxd. p. (50.)

’Aero' toD ou^/oh^o/uouprog arx^, (100.)

’Ard TO»i>"AAA«y tig woA/y Aiyeiiptg oroih. o. (100.)

Ch. 5. 207

*A«'o Tou Ilf Aiyetietg tu0u^^6ftwPTi M tqu ^-oXov j>o-

rou aruZ. ( 100 .)

’Aa-o AiyutuM 6 vct^u^T^ovg K^nficuuhog svl KMfctny 'If^tri'hTnv cral. ^¥.

(150.) _

’A^o Patrou evdv^^ofiovurt M r^v ^£^erh\7iu M rov toXov vorot/

areti, au. (250.) kxtm Ssj r^y 'SsqstiXyiu KafAYi ecTraua Xluouf^og
rccr Koti {/•Tti^tkm avrou xee?.ov/xeyoy Ilecoiov dz-o aret^, §. (60.)

* Aro rijg Ss^er/TiXeag tig KafAinv iv dK^ety ’ letyovetQiety vruh, x, ( 1 000.)

*A^o T^g’ IxyovuQtxg dK^xg i-xi rxg Aiiuficovg ui^ffovg arx^, >. (30.)
'Aro rxy A/hv/xay y^ffay iig vohty xx'KtkVfxkyi/iy MeeXXov vrxh, (100.)
'Atto AlxMiOV eig ' Ayrtiyjiixy Uv^xfitoy ^orx/tcoy arx^. ^y. (150.)

'Atto rzg*AyTioxeixg exi r^y'Jayixy, ^y yvy KiipxTioy xxMwi arx^,

0. (70.) vx^x TO dx^XTVjaioy voTXftog kaTi yrTiitrog Ilugx^og kx'KsItui.

’A^d toD 2«oxg3\ow (soil. Vavatxov*) Bs ^3j KxrxKohrril^QVTt, xT^'h
ivQiixg v’hioyrt fig ' Ayriiy^nxy' f-rurx Trgdj dvxrtt’K'^y rtig "lljrit^ou
yorx rx evayvjxx f4.xKQoy hx^x7i\a vtxo. ru. (350.)

'Avo rov IJvQXfAQv ^orxfiov fvfivOQo^uovurt fig 'S.a7vOvg tvl rx v^og
ta'TTiaxy fAi(iTn rijg d^KTov yorx itxnthxxg ara^, (p. (500.)

’Axd rijg Kipx'kiig rov TIvqx/xov M roy Trorxfiou "A^i/oy arxi, gx.

(\ 20 .)

’Axd ' A^tiov vorxfAov iri ttrofAXTOg^i^yinu oxx'hiirxi P/iy/xoi trrx^,

0 .( 70 .) ^ ^ ^ ^

*Awd PtjyficSy fig Txfl<roy arei^, o, (70.)/Pfc'f/ difctayig r^g 7ro'^.fag TrorxJ
flog Kvhvog.

’A-rd Tx^/tov i‘!rl x^o/oy Zspvotoy arxo. qk. (120.)

’Aw'd Be '2o>.uy ewi xiifiyjv Kx?>x»^txy arxh. u, (50.)

’Awd Kxy^xuOtxg KCjfiYig tic ^ET^xiOvyrx crrxo, ^.(100.)

’ Awd '2ey}/xoviryig (qu. ^Sexarr,g?) sig KOfAinv nx'hovfx.kyriV KaQVKoy o-TixB.

X. (20.)

’Acrd Be 'So?\.ay tig KcjQVKoy trrxZ, ur:, (280.) vrri^ Zy dvix^y iariy
dKoar^Qioy KuQVKfoy KX’Aovficeyoy oroeB. q, (100.)

'Aw’d rov KxQVKtov iirl A//xeyx xxAovfifyoy xxAoy Ko^XK^vioy ffrxa.
^Kt. (125.)

'Awd TOW KoQXKmiov irri rtjy llo/x/Arjy Tltroxy, ijr/c t'x^/ xAifiXKX B/’
^gfvrtu o'Bdf tig 'S.ihtvKUxy rtjy trri Avkov areeB. o .(70.) (Icgc KxAvxxO'-
vov sive KxAvhvov f ).

'Aw’d T^f xAifixxog trri roy rrorxfxov KxAvhov (lege Kx?.v^yoy) crx^,
fx. 40.

♦ Ptolemy calls the southern cape at the entrance of the Issicgulf
(now Cape Hanzir) by this name, Puvt/txog axAieihog,

t Stephanus (in ' Tg/w) says, the Calycadnus was sometimes called
Ciilydniis.

208

Ch. 5.

.The reader will think, perhaps, that this long jHissage was
hardly worth transcribing Some of the distances indeed be-'
tween the known points give us not much confidence in its
authority : the number of stadcs, for instance, from Paltus on
the coiust of Syria to the Cilician pylae is more than double,
and that across the Gulf of Issus from Myriandrus to iSgae
is less than half the true distance. Nor will the shorter lines
along tlie coast bear much examination. I have thought it
worth while, however, to complete the comparison of this Pe-
riplus with the survey of Capt. Beaufort, because its minute
description can be illustrated only by a delineation so detailed
and accurate as* that of Capt. B. In the part of the Gulf of
Issus which has not yet been surveyed, the names and their
order may be of use to future investigators of the comparative
geography of these countries : and the Periplus may throw
some light upon ancient to])ography, when it has itself received
illustration from a correct delineation.

There are two points at the head of the Gulf of Issus besides
Alexandreia, which have preserved the ancient name. Tliese
are Baiac and TKgae, both which words are still used in the
Romaic form (the accusative case), in which they were received
by the Turks from the By/antine Greeks. Baiaci is now called
Bayas, and Alyai or Alyalon, Ayas. The former stands in a
small plain at the foot of Mount Amanus, which rises from the
extremity of the Ciulf j the latter occupies a point on the north
side of the gulf, at the entrance of a bay, which is formed on
the opposite or western side by a low cjipe, at the mouth of
the Djihiln, or Ghihun — the ancient Pyramus.

Strabo, Ptolemy and the Stadiasmus agree in naming two
pylfe, or passes, fortified witii a wall and gate at the head of

* Tsf ihu; K/A/x/aec f^faoyftot Mo'j'wwr/a, KflCffra-

xsti ' A/xxifixeti vx/hxt* Pcoiem. 1. o

c. 8.

'H '^voix d’rro fASuaoxrav rr, ri K/>/%/as, &C

MgTflt r6»"](rff6v xxi KtTiixtxc vuTiXs" i) xxrd* Icffoy,

Tlifoiets he TroKui xihs. H/vaflae,

llxyfixt Kxl xl 'Ivniut TrtJT^ce/. PfOlem. 1, 6. c. 16.

Ch. 6.

209

the gulf ; namely^ the gate of Amanus, which was in Cilicia,
and the Cilician gate, which formed the division between Sy-
ria and Cilicia. The position of both these pyla; has been
ascertained * 5 the northern or Amanic, between Ayds and
Bayds, at the northern or innermost extremity of the gulf,
Jy rw KoiXordruj rcu xoXirov, as the Stadiasmus has well de-
scribed it, the southern or Cilician, between Bayas and

Iskenderiin, not far from, if not exactly at the phicc, where
Pococke and other modern travellers observed some ruins vul-
garly known by the name of the Pillars of Jonas. Tlie pass
of Beilan, leading from Iskenderun over the mountain into the
plain of Antioch, was a third pylae f* which has been well di-
stinguished by Ptolemy from the other two, and was ju«tly
called the Gate of Syria.

It will follow from the foregoing remarks, that 1 cannot agree
with the author of the Illustrations of the Expedition of Cyrus,
in thinking that Strabo, by the words *AtjLavlSs$ UvXat, and a!
lIuAai Xsyousvat, optov KtXUujy re kol) 'Lvpwv meant one
and the same pass j or that by either of these pylm he meant
the pass of Beilan. For it is to be observed, that his words
*A[jLavihs irvXat occur in enumerating the places in their order,
thus : Mallus, /Eg®, Amanides Pyl®, Issus. At Issus, after
observing that the gulf took its name from that city, he suddenly
breaks off from his former order, mentions several cities in the
neighbourhood of the Gulf, and ends with naming the gate
which formed the boundary of Syria and Cilicia ; which, it is
to be observed, could not have been the Pass of Beilan, because
in that case Alexandria would have been included in Cilicia :
whereas we know that Issus was the last towm of that province.
Nor is the meaning which Major Rennell gives to tliese words

• Pococke’s Travels, vol. 2. part 1. c. 20. M. Kinneir’s Journey in
Asia Minor, p. 135. Niebuhr’s Map in the Voyage cn Arabic, tom. 2.
pi. 52. Drummond’s Travels, letter 5,
i* I saw the foundation of the wall which once fortified this pass.
Perhaps Beilan is only a corruption of IlyTijjy, or Pyla in the ac-
cusative.

f Strabo, p. 6/6. See the translation in p. 180 of this volume.

P

210

Ch. 5,

of Strabo supported by the other passage which he cites

(from p. 751); the words of which are at Way pat

’Avrioxl^S, epviivoy xard njv virepie<ny rov ’Ajxavoo rrjv

SK tujy 'AfiayiSwy 'irvXuiy stg njv 'Ivplav HsifJisyoy, ^Tmiriirrei jitev
oJy •talg Wdypats to twv 'Avrio^iwy nrsSiov. The ruins of
Pagra are found under their ancient name, in the usual modern
form of the accusative case (Pagras), on the southern slope of
Mount Amanus eight or nine miles below Beilan on the road
to Antioch. Had Beilan been the Amanic gate meant by
Strabo, he would surely have described Pagrm simply as being
on the descent from the gates of Amanus into the plain of An-
tioch, not as on the passage over Mount Amanus, which leads
from the Pylm Amanides into Syria ; for thus the passage should
be translated, and not as Dr. Gillies has given it, “ situate upon
the ascent of Mount Amanus leading from the gates of Amanus
into Syria.” Beilan certainly was, as I have just observed* a
PyUs, and it was upon Mount Amanus, or rather exactly at the
point which separated Mount Amanus from Mount Pieria ; but
it was not the Pylae Amanides of Strabo, the position of which,
as already described, is exactly confirmed by the Stadiasmus, as
well as by Ptolemy. There was a fourth pass, as Major Kennell
has justly observed, which crossing Mount Amanus from the
eastward, descended upon the centre of the head of the gulf,
near Issus. By this pass it was that Dareius marched from
Sochus, and took up his position on the banks of the Pinarus ;
by which movement Alexander, who had just before marched
from Mallus to Myriandrus, through the two maritime pylae,
was placed between the Persians and Syria. Cicero also al-
ludes to this pass when he observes, that '' nothing is stronger
than Cilicia on the side of Syria, there being only tw'o nar-
row entrances into it over the Amanus, the ridge of which
mountain divides the two provinces : “ qui Syriam a Cilicia
aquarum divortio dividit*.” The other pass to which he alludes
was that of Beilan.

• Cicero ad Div. 1. 15. ep. 4. ad Attic. 1. 5. ep. 20. Cicero, in clear-
ing Mount Amanus of the Parthians, took Erana, the chief town, and
several smaller places.

Ch. H.

211

With regard to the military operations of Alexander and of
Cyrus on this celebrated scene of action, I must be satisfied,
until we have a more detailed and accurate map, with referring
the reader to Major llenncll, who has ably confronted the va-
rious evidences upon the subject in his illustrations of the Ex-
pedition of Cyrus. The chief movements and the general si-
tuation of the places are sufficiently clear, and I fully subscribe
to Major Renneirs opinions, vrith the sole exception which I
have just stated.

Having ascertained the eastern extremity of the line of coast
comprehended between the mouth of the Calycadnus and the
head of the gulf of Issus, I shall now return to the western
extremity, and, proceeding according to the order of names in
the extract from Strabo, examine how lar the text of the Geo-
grapher can be illustrated by other authorities, particularly the
Stadiasmus. The modern names of K<>rgos, Lamas, and Tersus,
which would probably be still nearer the original Coryciis, Lat-
mus, and Tarsus, when written by a Greek, are the principal
landmarks, and together with the ruins of Pompciopolis at Me-
zetlu, they render it not difficult, with the assistance of Captain
Beaufort’s survey, to fix most of the intermediate places.

(30) Here it will be observed that the Stadiasmus exactly
confirms Strabo's description of the rock Pa^cile, with its steps
leading to Seleuceia. Its distance of 40 stades from the Caly-
cadnus, if correct, will place it about Pershendi, at the north-
eastern angle of the sandy plain of the Calycmlnus, where
a sheltered bight between the sandy beach and a projection of
the mountains which constitute the coast from thence as far
as the Lamas, serves as the harbour of Selefke towards the east,
as Aghaliman is to the west. Instead of any steps in the rocks,
Captain Beaufort here found the extensive ruins of a walled
town, with temples, arcades, aqueducts, and tombs built round
a small level, which had some appearance of having once been
a harbour, with a narrow opening to the sea." An inscription
copied by Captain Beaufort from a tablet over the eastern gate
of the ruins, accounts for the omission of any notice of this town
by Strabo ; for the inscription states it to have been entirely

P 2

212

Ch. 5,

built by Fluranius, archon of the Eparchia of Isauria, in the
reign of the Augusti Valentinian, Valens, and Gratianus *. It
seems probable that it is the same place called Poecile Petra by
Strabo ; and that being the eastern port of Seleuceia, it acquired
tinder the Roman emperors a share of the importance to which
Seleuceia then attained, and probably some new name, perhaps
Zephyrium. As the Stadiasmus speaks of the place in the same
terms as Strabo, it may be inferred that this Periplus is older
than the ruins at Pershendi, or older than the 4th century.

(31) Between Poecile Petra and Corycus, Strabo places Cape
Anemurlum and the island Crambusa; the Stadiasmus names
only port Coracesium. KtopvKos still preserves Us name; but
instead of being a jiromontory as described by Strabo, it is an
island, upon which stands a castle similar in structure to another
larger castle on the neighbouring shore of the continent. The
castle on the island appears from the inscriptions whicli it pre-
serves, to have been of the time of the Armenians, who pos-
sessed this country in the beginning of the 1 3 th century. In 1 432
Korgos belonged to the king of Cyprus f. In 1471 it was taken
from the Turks of Mahomet the Second by the Venetians, who
gave it up to the prince of Karaman J. The castle on the shore
stands on the site of a Greek town, the ancient Coiycus §,
which Strabo has not noticed. There does not appear to be
any cape on the four miles of coast between this point and
Pershendi that will readily identify itself with his cape Ane-

♦ We find in Hieroclcs that Seleuceia was the metropolis of Isaii-
ria at the tinie when Cilicia, divided into two extended

no further westward than Corycus inclusive. The chief magistrate,
however, is stated by Ilierocles to have been intitled not

but Hieroclcs probably wrote long after the date of this
inscription, and in the interval some change may have taken place
in the mode of government.

f Travels of Bertrandon de la Brocqiiiere in the years 1432, 1433,
translated by Johnes, pp. 174. H)0.

X Josaphat Barharo-Viaggio in Persia,

§ Liv. 1. 33. c. 20. Plin. 1. 5. c. 27- Pomp. Mela, 1. 1. c. 13.
Stqihan. in KufiUKQ^,

Ch. 5. ‘113

murium, nor any harbour that will agree with the Coracesium
of the Stadiasmus ; and the distances in the last authority are
quite absurd. On the summit of the mountain, above the ruins
of Corycus, ought to be found the Corycian cave, of which
Strabo, Mela, and Solinus have related such wonders, that wdth
regard to the greatest part of them we may use the words
applied by Solinus himself to one of the circumstances reported
of the cave — Qui volunt, credunt.

(32) Elaeussa is no longer an island ; and it is remarkable
that Stephanus, though in one place * he calls it an island
near Corycus, in another f describes it as a Chersonese. A
sandy plain now connects Eheussa with the coast, and with the
ruins of the city which derived its importance and its name of
Sebaste from having been the residence of Archelaus king of
Cappadocia These ruins consist of a temple, theatre, nu-
merous sej)ulchrcs, and three aqueducts, one of which is de
rived from the river Lamus, six miles distant. The distance
of Elaeussa as well as of Soli from Corycus is tolerably exact
in the Stadiasmus j consequently there must be some error
either in the distance between Soli and Calanthia, or in that
between Calanthia and Eheussa : and hence, as there are no
conspicuous ruins upon this part of the coast, it becomes im-
possible to hx Calanthia.

(33) Soli, which like A.spcndus and Rhodus was a colony
from Argus, was at one time the chief city on the coast of
Cilicia} but it had fallen into decay, chiefly by the ill treatment
of Tigranes, when Pompey, having reduced Cilicia, rebuilt it and
named it Pompeiopolis §. Captain Beaufort has published a
plan of its ruins. The elliptical mole and artificial port seem
to have been a magnificent structure, and may perhaps be

• In ’ETiae/owaf. t

J Joseph. Antiq. Jiid. I. 16. c. 4. Strabo, p. 671-

§ Xenoph. Exp. Cyr. 1. 1. c. 4. Arrian, I. 2. c. 5. Q. Cart. 1 3 c. 7.
Dio. Cass. 1. 36. c. 20. Liv. 1. 33. c. 20.— 1. 37. c, 56, Pompon.
Mel. 1. 1. c. 13. Ptol. I. 5. c. 8.

214

Ch. 5.

only a repair of an ancient Greek work. The other remains^
the walls, aqueduct, theatre, temples, and the long colonnade
on either side of the main street, were probably erected by
Pompey, as they resemble the skeletons of Roman cities seen
at Antinoe in Egypt, at Gerasa in Syria, and less perfectly in
many other places.

(34) The most projecting point between the ruins of Soli
and the mouth of the Tersds-tshai, or Cydnus, is the sandy
cape at the mouth of the river of Mersin. This cape, therefore,
is probably the ancient Zephyrium, though its distance from
Tarsus is somewhat greater than that which the Stadiasmus
gives between these two places, namely 120 staJes. The Sla-
diasmus agrees with Hierocles in sliowing that there was a
town as well as a cape of Zephyrium.

(35) We naturally look for Anchiale, the port of Tarsus, at
the nearest part of the coast at which there is shelter for ship-
ping, or at that from whence the maritime traffic of Tarsus is
now carried on. The shore opposite to Kazalii and Karaduar
is in both these predicaments^ and between these tw^o villages
is a river answering to the Anchialeus *. Anchiale boasted of
an antiquity equal to that of Tarsus j but as early as the time of
Alexander the Great it retained only the vestiges of its former
importance, in its massy and extensive walls f* A large mound,
not far from the Anchialeus, with some other similar tumuli near
the shore to the westward, are the remains, perhaps, of the works
of the Assyrian founders of Anchiale, which probably derived its
temporary importance from being the chief maritime station of
the Assyrian monurchs in these seas.

(36) The Cydnus, instead of flowing through Tarsus, as in
former times J, leaves the present city to the westward, and
no longer forms the lake towards its mouth, which once served

* Stephan, in 'Ay^^aAjj. Eustath. in Dionys. Perieg.

f Arrian, 1. 2. c. 5.

j Arrian, 1. 2. c. 1. Q. Curt. I. 3. c. 5. Dionys. Perieg. v. 868.

Ch. 6.

215

as a naval arsenal to Tarsus. The alluvion of the river itself
has converted this lake into a .<<andy plain.

Although Strabo has omitted to mention the Snrus in this
place, there is sufficient proof that it was the modern Sihdn^
which enters the sea at a short distance to the S. E. of the
Cydnus ; for the town of A'dana, the district of w^hich adjoined
to that of Tarsus, still retains its ancient name and situation on
the western bank of the Sihun ♦ 5 the course of which river is
traced upwards through mount Taurus into the plains of Cap-
padocia, exactly as Strabo describes the Sarus f.

(37) It is equally evident that the Ghihun is the Pyramus,
whose origin, like the Sarus J, was in Cappadocia, from whence
it flowed through the Taurus ^ for the Pyramus was the next
river eastward of the Sarus § j and at Mensis, the Ghihun flows
within 20 miles of the Sihiin at Adana, without any interme-
diate river of magnitude between them j from thence it wdnds
to the east, and joins the sen in the middle of the Issic gulf.
The Ghihdn is larger than any other river in Cilicia, as Strabo
describes the Pyramus, and it has deposited a large tract of
alluvial land at its mouth, which, however, has not increased $0
rapidly as the ancients had predicted.

(38) The great plain situated between the lower course of
these two rivers and the sea was called Aleium. The only hill
which it contains rises from the shore of the gulf of Iskenderun,
and forms at its southern extremity the northern cape of that gulf
under the name of Karadash. Here Captain Beaufort observed
the vestiges of an ancient town. This 1 believe to have been

* Dio. Ciiss. 1. 47- c. 31. Procop. dc ^dif. 1. 5. c. 5. Stephan, in

•f* * * § A/ae fAiv ovv rijs reLvring (scil. Comana) 6 pu wo-

rxpeog KXi hoc rZu vvvxyKum rov hsKTre^xiwrxt or^og rd rSv

K/'AtKeaif •x'eoix to v^roKupcivov 7r«7.«yo;. p. 53(). ('oinana is the
modern Bostan. X Strabo, ibid.

§ Xenoph. de Exp. Cyr. 1. 1. c. 4. Ptoleni. 1. 5, c. 8. Procop.
de iEdif. 1. 5. c. *5.

216

Gh. 5.

Megarsus^ and that Mallus was situated on ainother hill wluch
rises from the eastern bank of the Pyramus near its mouth;
for these two situations accord perfectly with the evidence which
the ancients have left respecting the position of Megarsus and
Mallus. 1 . Megarsus vvjls a sea-beaten hill in the neighbour-
hood of Mallus and the mouth of the Pyramus and Karadash
is the only hill near the Aleian plain which borders the sea-
coast. 2. Mallus was upon a height near the Pyramus, as
Euphorion Scylax Strabo, Stephanus §, and Mela 1|, all
indicate, and not far from the sea-coast, as appears from its
being noticed in the Periplus of Scylax, as well as in the Sta-
diasmus. 3. Strabo and Ptolemy agree in naming the Pyra-
mus before Mallus in proceeding from west to east. 4. This
position of Megarsus, the Pyramus, and Mallus, agrees per-
fectly with the proceedings of Alexander, as related by Strabo,
Arrian, and Curtius^f* Alexander having sent his horse under
Philotas from Tarsu-s across the Aleian plain to the Pyramus,
marched the infantry from Soli along the sea-cofist to Megar-
sus; from whence, after having sacrificed to Minerva Megarsis,
he proceeded to Mallus, which it appears that his army did not
enter until they had thrown a bridge across the Pyramus.

It is further remarkable, in reference to the site of Mallus,
that the sailing distance in the Stadiasmus from Mallus to

• Stephan, in Metyx^tro;.

JXvflXficou Vfioi \xZttKxli

AtTVS 8’ o’xfAOS i» f^STXIXfli'x

MiyxQffo^. Lycophr. v. 439.

ij Be 'MeyxQo-og kutxi rxi^. rot# llu^xficov worae-

/xoi/. Tzetzes in ScJioI. ibid.

^Ixycc^aec rov HvQXftov crAijaiov. Strabo, p. G76. Sec the
translated extract,
t Ap. Tzetz. in Lycopli. ubi sup.

^ livoxfAfj^ Kxi -TFohig MoeAXoV, ils ecvecvXot/f Kxrd roV

^oTXfitoif. Scvlax in Cilicia.

§ Steph. in |! Pomp. Mel. 1. 1. c. 13.

^ Arrian, 1. 2. c. 5. — castris motis, et Pyramo amne ponte

jnneto, Mallon pervenit. Q. Curt. 1. 3. c. 7.

Gh.fii

217

Soli, accords precisely with that of Artemidohis * * * § from the
Pyramus to Soli, namely 500 stades, which is very near the
truth ; and that the description whicli the Stadiasmus gives of
the navigation is exactly confirmed by the form of the inter-
mediate coast, namely, that it trended first to the southward,
and then to the north-westward.

(39) Mopsuestia is represented to have stood on the Pyra-
mus f. Its name under the Byzantine empire was corrupted to
Mampsysta, or Mamista, or Mansista { ; of which names the
modern Mensis appears to be a further corruption. This town
stands on the Ghihun, on the road from BaiAs to A’dana, nearly
at the distance from efich at which the Jerusalem Itinerary
places Mansista. The Peutinger Table, also, places Mopsuesta
at 19 M.P. from A'dana. We cannot doubt, therefore, that
Mensis occupies nearly, if not exactly, the site of the ancient
city of Mops us.

Above this place, on the .same river, stood Anazarba, or
Csesareia at Mount Anazarbu.s, which has probably preserved
some remains of antiquity, as it was the capital of the second
or eastern Cilicia about the fifth century. Tarsus being at that
time the metropolis of the western §.

To the north -ea.stward of A^g® was Kpiphaneia ||, one day’s
march from Mount Amanus on the road from Alexandria
to Anazarbus which probably branched from the road to
Mopsuestia, not far from the Amanic gates. In the mountains

• Ap. Strabon. p. 675. Hec the translated extract.

t Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 27. Stephan, in Moyf/ov taTi'ot. Procop,
de .Edif. 1. 5. c. 5.

■ J Cod. Theodos.

9 'MxfAtaTBt ii x.eci lSI6yf/ov gurtet M. Glyc® Annal. p. 306.

Paris.

Civitas Adana, 18 M.P. Civitas Mansista 48 M.P. Mansio Bai®.
— Itin. Hierosol.

§ Ilierocl. Synecd.

II Appian Mithridat. c. 96. — Epiphania qu® antca Eniandus. Plin.
Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 27. Ptolem. 1. 5. c. H. Hierocl. Synecd.

5F Cicero ad Div. I. 15. ep. 4. •• Tab. Peutinger, «eg. 7.

218

Ch. 5.

above Epiphania and Anazarbus towards Cappadocia were Pin-
denissus and Tibara, two strong tovvns of the Eleuthero- Cilices
which were taken by Cicero*. Castabalum^ placed by the
Itineraries about 16 M.P. from Bai®, and about 26 from Mgsd,
appears from Curtius to have been very near the Pylae Ama>
nides, on the northern side f* According to the Table, Issus
was 5 M.P. to the southward of Castabalum.

Below Mopsuestia, between that place and Mall us, there ap-
pears to have been a town upon the Pyramus called Antiocheia^
for besides the evidence w'hich the Stadiasmus affords of this
fact, we find it exactly confirmed by Stephanus, who mentions
it as one of ten cities of that name

The Seretila, which the Stadiasmus places between Mallus
and Aigae, is ])robably an error for Serrepolis, which name is
inserted by Ptolemy § in the same situation j and this conjec-
ture is in some measure confirmed by the genitive ^epsTikXEcvs,
in which form the Stadiasmus afterwards mentions the same
name, and which nearly approaches to ^eppsTrcXsujg.

I shall not pretend to explain the Stadiasmus any further,
or to justify its distances, some of which may, however, be
found accurate, when a better knowledge of the real geography
and of the ancient sites shall have illustrated its meaning.
With such a multitude of verbal and literal errors, wq cannot
be surprised at finding many of the numbers also inaccurate.
It may be observed, however, that of the three distances which
the author has drawn across the gulf of Issus, — namely, from
Myriandrus to ASga?, from llhOsus to Serrepolis, and from the
Rhosicrock (now cape Hanzir) to Antiocheia on the Pyramus, —
the two latter .seem to be tolerably near the truth.

♦ Ciccr. ubi supra. f Q. Curt. 1. 3. c. 7.

X 'AtfTto^stx KtT^iKtag rov Ilv^afcov.

Stephan, in ' Aurtojcetet.

§ Atyotiy ^laarog. Ptolem. 1. 5. c. 8.

CHAPTER VI.

SOME REMARKS ON THE COMPARATIVE GEOGRAPHY
OF THE WESTERN AND NORTHERN PARTS OF
ASIA MINOR.

Principal places in Percea Rhodia — in Doris — in Caria — in the
valley of the Matander — in the valley of the Caystrus — on the
coast of Ionia — in the valleys of the Hermus and Caicus, and
in the adjacent country — in Troas — in Bithynia — in Paphla^
gonia.

It remains to submit to the reader some obser-
vations in justification of the ancient names in tlie
western and northern parts of the map which ac-
companies the present volume. It will not be ne-
cessary to enter into this part of the subject so
fully as into those wdiich have already been under
consideration. The western provinces, in conse-
quence of their celebrity and greater advantages of
climate, soil, and situation, have been more fully
described, botli by ancient and modern writers; so
that, in conducting the reader to the results re-
corded on the map, a general reference on the one
hand to the travellers whose routes are there marked,
and on the other to the ancient historians, geo-
graphers, and itineraries, will be sufficient. In
those instances only, it may be necessary to be
more particular, where the ancient positions are
determined by less obvious authorities or by unpub-

220

Cb. 6.

lished documents, or where the question is ren-
dered doubtful by deficient or conflicting evidence.
As to the north-eastern part of the peninsula, we
must be contented with a brief notice of its geogra-
phy, for a reason the reverse of that which induces
me to abridge the geographical notice of the pro-
vinces bordering on the iEgjean sea. The distance
of Paphlagonia and Eastern Bithynia from the cen-
tre of Grecian civilization, and the little attention
which those countries have received from ancient
history, have hardly tempted a single traveller to
trust himself among their barbarous tribes, or to
explore their mountains and forests; and hence the
evidences of the geography of that country, both
ancient and modern, are extremely imperfect.

I shall begin from the western extremity of Captain
Beaufort’s Survey, and shall proceed to the westward
and northward from the same point at which the re-
marks of the preceding chapter set out in the oppo -
site direction . It so happens that Da^dala is precisely
the point at which Strabo also changes the course of
his observations; and from which, after describing
the coast of Caria with the adjacent islands and con-
tinent in a western direction, he proceeds, as we
have seen in the translated extract at the beginning
of the last chapter, to direct his description of
Lycia, Pamphylia, and Cilicia, from west to east.

Captain Beaufort not having surveyed any part
of the coast between Telmissus and Halicarnassus,

221

Ch. 0=

excepting that near Cnidus; and no traveller hav-
ing pretended to publish a delineation of it, except
M. de Choiseul Gouffier, whose map is too obvi-
ously incorrect, both in construction and in detail,
to merit much attention; this part of the coast-line
of Asia is more subject to a suspicion of inaccuracy
than any other. The important positions of Rho-
dus, Cnidus, Cos, and Halicarnassus, are indeed as-
certained by the observations of Captain Beaufort,
and I have derived some assistance from a few
measurements taken with the compass and sex-
tant from the same places, by Sir William Gell;
but no reliance can yet be placed on the outline of
the gulfs ol Sy me and Kos : even the extent of those
magnificent bays is very uncertain, and nothing is
known of the situation of the numerous towns and
islands placed in them by the ancient authors, espe-
cially by Pliny: in short, the exploring of these two
gulfs with that of the coast in the vicinity of Cau-
nus, is now one of the most interesting desiderata
in the geography of Asia Minor.

Strabo * describes Peraea as beginning at the
fort and mountain Da;dala, near Telmissus, and as
ending at mount Phoenix, both places included.
‘‘Next to the gulf Glaucus occurs the cape and tem-
ple Artemisium, and then the grove of Latona ;
above which, 60 stades inland, is the city Calynda,
then Caunus, a city with docks and a closed port ;

* Strabo, p. 65 J, 655, 664, 665.

222

eh. 6.

and near it the Calbis, navigable by boats. Be-
tween Caunus and the Calbis is Pisilis ; and on a
height above Caunus is a fort named Imbrus. The
next place on the coast to Caunus is Physcus, a
small city which has a harbour and a grove of Lia-
tona ; then the rugged coast of Loryma, the high-
est mountain above which is named Phoenix, and
has a castle of the same name on its summit. Be-
fore this coast lies Elfeussa, 4 stades from the sea,
8 stades in circumference, and 120 stages distant
froin Rhodus. Beyond Loryma is the cape Cynos-
sema and the island Syme.”

As it appears from another passage in Strabo
where he cites Artemidorus, that the common road
from this coast to the northw^ard, was from Physcus
by Alabanda and Tralles, there seems little doubt
that Physcus was at Marmara, which is still the
usual place of debarkation from Rodos to those
going towards Ghiuzel-hissar and Smyrna.

The distances of Elasussa and port Cressa from
Rhodus, as given by Strabo and Pliny f, are suffi-
ciently accurate to identify those two places. The
excellent harbour of Cressa is now called Aplothika

* Strabo, p. 6fi3. Strabo has committed a great error in
stating that Physcus was the nearest point of the coast to My'-
lasa. Tlie gulf of Kos is not one-third of the distance of Mar-
mara from Mylasa.

t Caria mediae Doridi circumfunditur ad mare utroque la-
tere ambiens : in ea promontorium Pedalium, amnis Glaucus
deferens Telmissum j oppida Daedala, Crya fugitivorum : flumen

Ch. 6.

223

by the Greeks, and Porto Cavaliere by the Italians,
and on its western short: are the ruins of a Hellenic
fortress and town, which are undoubtedly those of
Loryma; for Loryma is called a city by Seneca*
and Stephanus, although not so designated by Strabo
or by Pliny; and port Loryma is described by Livy
as being opposite to Rhodusf, at a little more
than the distance if which Pliny assigns to Cressa.
The order of names on this coast in Ptolemy § is in
exact agreement with the other authorities which
I have cited in proof of their position, as marked
on the map, if we suppose his cape Onugnatus to
be the same as the Cynosema of Strabo.

Although Choisseul Gouffier must have nearly
crossed the sites of Daedala and Calynda, he did
not ascertain the position of either of them : nor
has that of Caunus, the chief city of Peraea, yet
been explored. The promontory called by Strabo
Artemisiurn, from the temple of Diana which

Axon : oppidum Calydnn * * oppidum Caunos liberum ; deinde
Pyrnos, portus Cressa a quo Rhodus in.sula .\x M.; locus Lo-
ryma. Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. !i. c. 27.

Here Pyrnus occupies the place of Pliyscus, which ought
perhaps to be substituted for the former word.

* Senec. Qu. Nat. 1. 3. c. 19.

t Liv. 1. 37. c. 17.

J viginti paullo amplius millia. Liv. 1. 45. c. 10.

§ KviJof vohis xai axfia, ’OvouyvfliSof axpa.- A(ipvp.a, Kpriv<r*
Alurjv, 4«4U<rx«, KdKSits mrafUti lxe»Xal, Kaurif, Ka-

Kapia. AalSecAa r«r»f, Ptol. 1. 5

c. 2. 3.

224

Ch. 6.

stood upon it, appears to have been the same as
the Pedalium of Pliny and the Stadiasmus, and to
be the cape now called Bokomadhi.

The Clydae, which the Stadiasmus * names be-
tween Pedalium and Crua (Crya) is evidently the
same as the Chyda*, which Ptolemy places a little
to the westward of Crya, and Crya is undoubtedly
the Cryassus of Stephanus and Plutarch f- We
are not surprised at finding in the modern town
of R6dos an inscription in which Cryassus and
Chalce (the island still called Khalki) are alluded
to, both these places having been dependencies of
the Rhodian republic. The islands off the coast

* Aoivov Kapla,

*Ex Ts^ixeycroo ei$ Aa/^aAa crra,^, v. (50.)

*£>t elg o*raJ. v. (50.)

*Ek sig Kpovav <rTa$. (60.)

*Ex Kpovwv £ 1 $ rov Ko^Xiav a-raS. v. (50.)

'Ex KXv$wy £7n to Urj^ciXioy axpur-^ptov aroL^. A. (30.)

'Airo row riTjJaA/ot; sm rov ’Ayxa;ya rov evl rov rAawxou o’fstS,
Tt. (80.)

'Atto row 'Ayxw/of hci rwv Kovvlojv (lege Kavviujv) HdvoppLOv
<rra5. /Jx. (120.)

200 stade.s from Pedalium to Panormus of the Caunii is nearly
the real distance from cape Bokomadhi to port Karagatsh, and
renders it probable that the latter was the ancient Panormus,
a name which well applies to that fine basin. Its having been
a part of the territory of the Caunii, may perhaps account for
other authorities having omitted to mention it.

t Plutarch, de Virt. Mul.

J AYSANAPOY AYSANAPv^Y

XAAK.HTA KAI TYNAIKOS
KAKAlNlAOil KAAAIKPATIAA
KPYAS^IIAOS.

Ch. 6. 225

of Daedala and Crya are noticed by Pliny who
says there were two belonging to the Daedalenses;
and three, two of which are by Stephanas f named
Alina and Carysis, belonging to the Cryenses.

In consequence of our ignorance of the actual
topography of the gulfs of Doris and Ceramus, I
have not attempted to place any of their towns,
even con ecturally, except Euthena?, which is stated
by Mela J to have been in a bay between Cnidus
and the Ceramic gulf: Bargasa and Ceramus are
described by Strabo § as being near the sea, be-
tween Cnidus and Halicarnassus ; and Passala, an
island in the same gulf, was the port of the My-
lassenses ||. The modern name K^raino, which, if
it exists, identifies the site of Ceramus, rests, I be-
lieve, solely upon the authority of D’Anville.

The Dorian colonies from the Peloponnesus,
which settled in Halicarnassus, Cnidus, Cos., and
in the three cities of Rhodus, introduced the use
of Doric architecture, and of the Doric dialect, into
this angle of Caria. Remains of Doric buildings
are found at Lindus, Cnidus, and Halicarnassus^;

Plin.l. 5. C.31,

f Stephan, in Kpvx , — Stephanus has distinguished Crya from
Cryassus, ascribing the former to Lycia and the latter to Caria.
copying Artemidorus for the former, and Plutarch for the latter .
The distinction is probably an error; unless Crya was the old site,
and that the other was the new Crya.ssus mentioned by Plutarch.

{ Pomp. Mel. 1. 1. c. 16. § Strabo, p. 656-

II Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 31. Stephanus in Zldcfrakot,.

II At Lindus are the ruins of a dodecastyle Doric portico
in front of a cavern, at Cnidus there is a Doric stoa, and at

226

Ch, 6.

and inscriptions in the Doric dialect have been found
in most of the cities of the Hexapolis. It appears
that they had not neglected the latter mark of their
origin in the early ages of the Roman empire

Halicarnassus are the ruins of a large Doric tern ole, supposed
by Choiseul Gouffier, who has published a design of it, to
have been the temple of Mars mentioned by Vitruvius.

It is not to be supposed that the people of the Hexapolis
confined themselves to Doric architecture, being so near the
country where the Ionic originated and was brought to per-
fection. At all the three places just mentioned, but particu-
larly at Cnidus, we find examples of the other orders.

Cnidus formed one of the most important objects of the late
mission of the Society of Dilettanti. There is hardly any ruined
Greek city in existence which contains examples of Greek
architecture in so many different branches. There are still to
be seen remains of the city walls, of two closed ports, of several
temples, of stose, of artificial terraces for the public and private
buildings, of three theatres, one of which is *100 feet in dia-
meter, and of a great number of sepulchral monuments. De-
signs of the most important of these curious remains are about
to be published by the Society of Dilettanti.

* The following is an inscription at Cnidus :

A BOYAA KAl O AAMOS
AYPHAIAN EIPHNIIN OYPATEPA MEN
NEIKAAA TYNAIKA AE TOY llANTA-
APISTOY. MAP. AYP. EYAO;SrOY AI^J
lEPEDS AIA BIOY TOY MEPIXTOY KAI EN-
OANESTATOY 0EOY HAIOY KAI AAMI-
OYPPOY, APETA BIOY KAI 5:ad>POSYNA
KEKOSMAIMENAN, nANHPYPIAPXHSASAN
«>IAOTEIMnS KAI EHI^ANaS, TAN TEI-
MAN ANASTANT02S 'EK TON lAIDN
TOY ANAPOS AYTAS KAO A TA HATPIAI

YHEEXETO

GEOIS.

In a fragment of another Doric inscription at Cnidus, men

Ch. 6.

227

The conversion into a peninsula of the island
on which Strabo and Stephanas represent Jasus
(now Asy' n Kale) to have stood, is probably a re*
mote effect of the encroachments of the Meeander
upon the sea. We find another instance of the
same kind at Caryanda : for there can be little
doubt that the large peninsula^ towards the west-
ern end of which is the fine harbour called by the
Turks Pasha Limdni, is the ancient inland of
Caryanda, now joined to the main by a narrow
sandy isthmus. Pasha Limani (the port of the
Pasha) is the harbour of Caryanda, noticed by
Strabo, Scylax, and Stephanus; its position ac-

tion is again made of the officer called Sai^tovpyos ; also of
a yv[ji>viM$ dyujv leevrasTYfptyJj^ held at Cnidus. It was, pro-
bably, for these quinquennial celebrations, common, no doubt,
to all the surrounding country, that the great theatre at Cnidus
was principally intended.

In an inscription copied by Chandler (Ins. Ant. p. 19), at
lasus (Asy n Kale), we find a decree of the Calymnii cited at
length. This decree is in the Doric dialect, whereas that of the
lasenses which contain.s it is in common Hellenic. We arc
informed by Herodotus (1. 7. c. 99.) that the islands Calydniae,
of which Calymna was the chief, were colonized from Epidau-
rus 3 they were consequently included (as was Nisyrus likewise)
among the Dorians of the Hexapolis.

In Mitylene I found several inscriptions, shewing that the
use of the iEolic dialect was preserved to a late period in that
island, which was colonized from Thessaly : the most remark-
able form is BOAAA forUOTAH, and B0AAETTA2 for 4^^*
AETTHS.

Pococke has given copies (very inaccurately as usual) of

a 2

228

Ch. 6.

cording with that of the other places along this
coast, as described by Strabo. " Next to Halicar-
nassus,” he says, “ is Termerium, a cape of the
Myndii, opposite to cape Scandaria of Cos. * * *
Proceeding towards Myndus are the capes Astypalsea
and Zephyrium; and immediately beyond the latter,
the city Myndus, with a harbour; then Bargylia,
also a city, between which and Myndus is the har-
bour and the island of Caryanda*. Near Bargylia is
the temple of Diana Cindyas. Next occurs lasus.”

We can hardly doubt that Myndus stood in the
small sheltered port of Gumishlii, where Captain
Beaufort remarked the remains of an ancient pier
at the entrance of the port, and some ruins at the
head of the bay. The cape to the southward of
this port will consequently be Zephyrium; and it

some of these inscriptions (Inscr. Antiq. p. 45)3 and one is to
be seen in Gruter, p. 1091.

In reference to the use of the Doric dialect by the colonies
of that race of Greeks, it may be worthy of remark that the
Greek inscription of the time of Psammetichus king of Egypt,
lately discovered by Mr. W. Bankes on the temple of Ibsambal
in Nubia, appears from the words 'EA£^ayriyav,and
roi for oi, to be in the Doric dialect. Herodotus tells us that
the Greeks in the service of Psammetichus were lonians and
Carians: those who inscribed the temple of Ibsambal may
therefore have been from the Carian Doris. It w’as perhaps in
memory of these first Greek settlers in Upper Egypt that the
Greeks of the Thebais often used the Doric dialect as late as
theittime of the Roman emperors.

^ Pliny also (Hist. Nat. 1.5. c. 31.) numbers Caryanda
among the islands.

Ch. 6.

229

is not improbable that the ruins which the same
traveller observed at Kadi Kdlesi, in a bay on the
south side of that cape, are those of a small ancient
town of the same name, which has not been no-
ticed by the ancient authors.

Such having been the situation of Myndus and
of Caryanda, Bargylia (called Andanus"**^ in the
Carian language) should be sought for on the coast
between Pasha Limani and Asy'n Kalcsi: this po-
sition, it may be added, agrees with that which
Melaf ascribes to Bargylia, as well as with the
fact that the gulf of lasus was often called the
gulf of Bargylia

Of the interior cities of Caria, Stratoniceia is
shown to have been at Eskihissdr, by the important
ruins which have given rise to the modern name,
in conjunction with an inscription § found there,

* Stcphiin.in BdpyvXa. Const. Porph. dcThom. 1. 1. th. M.

t sinus lasius et Basilicus. In lasio est Burgylos.

Pomp. Mel. 1. 1. c. IG.

J Liv. 1. 37. c. 17. Stephan, in Ba^/yAa. Constant.
Porph. ubi supr.

§ Chishull, Antiq. Asiat. p. 153. — lliis inscription was co-
pied at Eski-his.sHr in 1709, by the celebrated botanist Sherard,
then British Consul at Smyrna. He also copied at the same
place, a long Latin inscription, containing a list of the prices
of various commodities, as regulated by one of the Romain em-
perors — which hits recently been excavated and more com-
pletely transcribed by Mr. W. Bankes. Sherard presented to
the Earl of Oxford a volume containing copies of between three
and four hundred inscriptions collected by him in Asia Minor.
This MS. is now in the British Museum. Catal. Harl. Cod. 7509.

230

Ch.6.

which relates to^Tupiter Chrysaoreus, the deity par-
ticularly worshipped at Stratoniceia.

The names of Lagina and Mylasa still subsist,
slightly corrupted. Of the latter city there are
many remains; but that which constituted its most
remarkable antiquity in the time of Pococke, the
temple of Rome and Augustus, was destroyed about
the middle of the last century by the Turks, who
built a new mosque with the materials

Tlie situation of Alabanda is still doubtful; and
the ancient testimony on that of Labranda is so
much connected with it, that the same uncertainty
prevails as to the site of the latter. The follow-
ing is the substj^nce of what Strabo says of these
places:

Labranda was a dependency of Mylasa, distant
from thence 68 stades, and situated in the moun-
tain over which lay the route from Mylasa to Ala-
banda. As far as Labranda there was a payed road,
which, as leading to the temple of Jupiter Stratius,
(otherwise named Labrandenus,) was called the Sa-
cred W ay f . Alabanda stood at the foot of a hill with
a double summit, which resembled an ass bearing
a pack-saddle. It was situated near a very winding

* Pococke, vol. 2. part 2. c. 6. Cliandlcr, Asia Minor, c. 56.
i* Ta $s Aal^pocv^a Kuj[ji,ri s(rr)v h rw opei xard t'tjv
C avJoyy t]$ roL MbXao’a, airway TfdXsivg' syravSa
yeiv; dpxodios xai ^oavov ZrpaTiov. rii^oLron ^ M rm
xuxA.y xai utto reJy MvXxtsujv' o% re iarputroct ti oxrcJ

Ch. 6.

231

river, and its territory was separated by a ridge of
hills from that of Mylasa *.

Pococke and Chandler supposed Alabanda to
have been at Karpdsli, where they found sepulchres
and the remains of public buildings, of a theatre,
and of town walls; and Chandler was the first to
describe the ruins (at lakli, not far to the southward
of Kizeljik or Mendeliat,) of a small fortified town
containing a theatre, and a ruined temple of the
Corinthian order, of which 16 columns of 2^ feet
in diameter, with a part of the entablature, were
standing in the year 1776. This, Chandler sup-
posed to have been the temple of Jupiter of La-
brandaf. M. de Choiseul Gouffier;}: and M. Bar-
bid du Bocage§ were of a different opinion. With-
out pretending to determine the position of Ala-
banda, they agreed in thinking that the ruins at

xa) Ifijxovra a-ra^iujv xaAoujbtivij r^f

iro/ATToa-roAsTrai ra Ispd. Strabo, p. 659.

i^lian (de Nat. Anim. 1. 12, c,30.) says that 70 stades was
the distance between Alabanda and Mylasa.

* ’AXafav^a xa) aurrj M'/tBiroLi Xofoig ^utr) cvyxsi^
oUrcv^, Jj<rr o^iv K0crs(rrpa[jLfjusif0u

* * * ysirrrj $* icrr) xa) autri kol) ^ Tujy MwXao'fwv iroXtg rwv
$jjpicoy rourcoy (a-xopTrlcvy) xa< >} (^eraj^u Tticra opeivrj,

Strabo, p. 660.

iroWas Ss (^laCdcraff rn ttvrf, oJw ax^t) xa) (o iro-

roLpLOs) 6 ex Kocrxiv/wv elf *AAaCayJa. Strabo, p. 587.

t Antiquities of Ionia, part 1. c. 4. Chandler, Asia Minor,
c. 58.

I Voyage Pittoresque de la Grere, c. 1 1 .

§ Voyage dc Chandler, tom. 2. p. 248.

232

Ch. 6.

lakli are those of Euromus, which we know from
Polybius and Livy * to have been one of the most
important places in this part of the country, at the
time of the Roman wars; and from Strabo, to have
been situated, as the ruins at lakli are, near the
eastern extremity of Mount Grium It appears,
moreover, from a coin of the emperor CaracallaJ,
that the Jupiter of Euromus had considerable ce-
lebrity; to him, therefore, the existing temple may
have been sacred, and not to Jupiter of Labranda:
in favour of which opinion, it may be added that
the temple of Labranda was noted for its antiquity,
whereas the architecture at lakli is of Roman
times.

On the other hand, it may be remarked that the
distance of lakli from Mylasa agrees tolerably with
the 68 or 70 stades between that place and Labran-
da ; that supposing Alabanda to have been at Kar-
pusli, the direction of lakli from Mylasa is not much
to the left of a line drawn from thence to Karpusli :
and that the deviation is a natural consequence of
the projection westward of the range of hills, a part
of which overhangs the temple at lakli.

There are some reasons, however, for thinking

♦ Polyb. 1. 17. c. 2.— 1. 18. c. 27.— 1. 30. c. 5. Liv. 1. 33.

c. 30. — 1. 45. c. 25.

t TO TpUv Tw AaVjw,w, av^xov airo

MiXYicrlotg ifpog ecu, hd rrjg Kapiag EJoai/xoy xal XaAK)j-

ro5wy. Strabo, p. G35.

X Vaillant Niim. Gra;c. Eckhd Doct. Num.Wt. Caria.

Ch. 6.

233

that Alabanda was not at Karpdsli, but at Ara-
bissdr. 1 . Pococke describes the ancient remains
at Arabissdr as consisting of town-walls, a theatre,
and a large oblong Roman building with windows,
which appeared to him to have been intended for
public assemblies : he adds that the city occupied
the slope and foot of tw’o hills. Now the two hills
accord with Strabo’s description of Alabanda ; and
the oblong building may have belonged to the
Roman conventus of which Alabanda w^as the chief
town 2. The river Tshina, near Arabissar, ac-
cords extremely well with the river upon which
Alabanda was situated ; as do the mountains which
separate its valley from the plain of Mylasa, with
the geographer’s words, ^ [ji^eru^v relating to
the mountain between Mylasa and Alabanda. —
3. The other words of Strabo, descriptive of the
situation of the temple, b ru ofg/, and of the road
which led to Labranda from Mylasa, tend to show
that the temple was on a mountain, and that
the road thither did not lead through a plain like
that from Mylasa to lakli. It may be added, 4. that
the ancient gate at Mylasa, upon which Chandler
observed the figure of a hatchet, the symbol of
Jupiter Labrandenus, and from which he inferred
that it was the gate leading to Labranda, does not
open towards lakli, but faces the east towards the

Plin. Hist. Nat, 1. 5. c. 29

234

Ch. 6.

mountain and Arabissdr Upon the whole, there-
fore, I am inclined to think that Alabanda was at
Arabissar, and Euromus at lakli ; and that the ves-
tiges of Labranda will hereafter be found on the
mountain to the north-eastward of Mylasa. The
ancient remains at Karptisli are perhaps those of
Orthosia. This was a place of some importance ;
and we know that it was situated in the country to
the southward of the Maeander, opposite to Tralles
and Nysa ; that it was not far from Coscinia t, and
that Coscinia was upon the same river as Alabanda:]:.

If Alabanda was at Arabissdr, Tshina, where
Pococke ^ found considerable remains, may be the
site of Coscinia, and its modern name may possibly
be a corruption of the ancient.

M. Barbie du Bocage || has with great reason
supposed that the river of Tshina was the branch
of the Maeander called Marsyas by Herodotus
The historian describes the Marsyas as flowing
from the country of Idrias into the Maeander ; and

^ Chandler, Asia Minor, c. 56.

+ . . . .ifepiKeivTai d^io\oyot HarotKtai itepavrov MoudvSpou,
Koaxivia xa) *Op6cocrioc. Strabo, p. 650.

J Stnibo, p. 587- vide supra.

§ Pococke, vol. 2. part 2. c. 9. — It is impossible from Po-
rocke’s confused narrative to understand either the exact course
of the river Tshina, or the position of the places in its vicinity.
'Phe attempt to describe them on the map must therefore be
considered as a mere approximation.

)| Voyage dc Chandler, tome 2. p. 252.

Hcrodot. 1. 5. c. 118,

ch. a.

' 235

he relates that the Persians under Daurises having
met the revolted Carians not far from the junction
of the two streams, the Carians were defeated, and
retired to Labranda, where they took up a position
in the sacred grove, and were joined by the Milesii
and others of their allies. They were defeated a
second time, and the Persians continued to advance
into Caria, until the Carians, attacking the invaders
by night on the road to Pedasus, were in their turn
victorious, and slew Daurises and several others of
the Persian leaders. It is evident that the Marsyas
of which the historian here speaks was a Carian
river, totally different from the stream or fountain
of the same name at Celaense, the course of which
was not longer than that city itself Idrias was one
of the earlier names of the city, which under the Ma-
cedonians assumed the name of Stratoniceia, and
its territory included Lagina, celebrated for a temple
of Hecate The latter place still preserves its an-
cient name, and not far from it are the sources of
the Tshina. It may be further observed, in con-
firmation of the identity of this river with the Mar-
syas of Herodotus, that the retreat of the Carians

* See above, chapter 4. p. 159.

t Strabo, p. 6C0. Stephan, in ‘Exarije-ia, Xpv<raopif,

All these were ancient names of Stratoniceia. In consequence
of some restorations by Hadrian, it afterwards received that of
Hadrianopolis, but did not long retain the appellation. See
Hierocles Synec. The worship of Hecate is mentioned in the
inscription of Stratonicr-ia, published by Chishull.

236

Ch. 6.

from its valley into the hills to the westward was a
very natural movement, and perfectly conformable
with the other circumstances of these transactions.

In opposition to the placing of Alabanda at Ara-
bissdr will perhaps be adduced the distances on the
road which led from Physcus by Tralles to Smyrna,
as stated by Artemidorus, and preserved by Strabo *.
These distances are from Physcus to Lagina 850
studes, to ^Alabanda 250, to the Meeander, which
was the boundary of Caria, 80, to Tralles 80, to
Magnesia 140, to Ephesus 120, to Smyrna 320, —
total from Physcus to Tralles 1260, from Tralles
to Smyrna 580. The numbers from Tralles to
Smyrna agree tolerably well with the reality ; but
it is sufficient to refer for a moment to the map, to
perceive how totally unworthy of credit those on the
road from Physcus to Tralles must be, both in the
aggregate and in detail. The 1260 stades are
represented on the map by only 60 geographical
miles in direct distance, making more than 20 stades
to a mile. Instead of 850 stades from Physcus
to Lagina, there could not have been with all the
windings of the road more than 300 ; nor are there
more than 50, instead of 80, from the Maeander to
the ruins of Tralles. The evidence of position de-
rived from this passage may therefore be rejected,
except inasmuch as it shows that Alabanda lay in
the road from Physcus to Tralles.

* Strabo, p. 663.

Ch. 6.

237

The second-rate places of Caria, dependent upon
the chief cities of the coast, or upon the three great
towns of the interior, were Euromus, Chalcetor,
Heracleia, and Amyzon

As Mount Grium extended from the Miiesia
eastward to Chalcetor and Euromus f, Chalcetor
would perhaps be found, supposing Euromus to
have been at lakli, at the foot of the mountain
which lies between that place and Asy'n Ka-
lesi.

The Heracleia mentioned by Strabo among the
four smaller towns of the interior of Caria, is not
the same as the Heracleia under Mount I-<atmus
which he describes elsewhere, for this was a mari-
time town. It must therefore be the same which
Ptolemy distinguishes from Heracleia of Latmus
(^foV Adr[jt,cu) by the name of Heracleia of Albanum
(TfoV 'Ak^divcu), Whether Albanum was the name
of a river or mountain it is difficult to say ; — but
the traveller might perhaps seek for the site of this
Heracleia, with some prospect of success, in the
situation in which it stands in the enumeration of
the towns of this country by Pliny:}:, namely, be-
tween Euromus and Amyzon.

The ruins of the citadel and town-waiis of Arny-
zon are to be seen on the eastern side of Mount

* Strabo, p! 658.

t Strabo, p. 635. See p. 232, note
t Plin. Hist. Nat. I. 5. c. 29.

238

Ch. 6.

Latmus on the road from Bafi to Tchisme, one hour
short of the latter, and a little above some villages
called Kafasldr. Mr. Hamilton here copied an
inscription in a very defective state of preservation,
of which however some of the expressions are di-
stinguishable. Towards the beginning I observe
AMYTONEaN and xaipein. When the letters of
the inscription were perfect, the former word was
undoubtedly AMYXONEQN, and it proves that these
remains belonged to Amyzon Mixed with Hel-
lenic ruins, there are others at this place, of the
date of the Byzantine empire, — a circumstance
which agrees with the mention made of Amyzon
among the places of Caria in Hierocles, and in the
list of Greek bishoprics.

The city of Latmus or Heracleia at Mount
Latmus has preserved considerable remains of its

* The form of the letters in this inscription seems, to show
that its (lute is about tlie time of the first wars of the Ro-
mans in Asia. It Wi^s an epistle addrc.ssed to the Amyzo-
nenses by some person in power : beginning with the usual
form of salutation, and ending with the no less customary EP-
In the Classical Journal, No. 28, the reader will
find an inscription nearly of the same tenor and date, which I
copied at C^yreti® in Perrhoebia, and which was an epistle ad-
dressed to the people of that place by the Consul Titus Quinc-
tius Flamininus, when he confmunded the Roman army in
Greece against the king of Macedonia, Philip son of Demetrius.
In the inscription of Amyzon, besides the^ two words already
stated. I distinguish TO lEPON A2TAON— BASIAEDS ET-
N01AN— KAT MH0ENI ENOXAEIN TMAE.

Ch. 6.

239

wails, together with many sepulchres and a small
temple. These ruins are found at the foot of a
rocky mountain, the ancient Latmus, on the shore
of a lake, which takes its name from the village
of Bdfi near the eastern extremity. This lake is
the Latmic Gulf described by Strabo *, but which
since his time has been separated from the sea
by the new plain formed at the mouth of the Mfe-
ander. Chandler, not adverting to this remark-
able change, mistook the lake of Bdfi for that of
Myus, and consequently the ruins of Heracleia
for those of Myus — an error which was corrected
by M. de Choiseul Gouffier. With this adjust-
ment, and the undoubted land-marks afforded by
the fine ruins of Priene at Samsdnf, and by the

^ Having described Miletus and the islands before it^ Lade
and the Tragaese, now heights in the plain, he adds : ecrrlv

6 iv cu'Hpxx^sia ij utto Aarfiw Xeyofj^hr), roXly^-

viov u^opy^ov IxaAgTro irporspov 6uLu}yvy.ujs rtf

ijifs^KSty.£y(y o^ei. Strabo, p. 63b.

t A re-examination of the ruins of Priene and Branchidae
was a principal object of the second Asiatic Mi.ssion of the
Society of Dilettanti. Their late publication renders it unne-
cessary for me to make any observations on the great monu-
Ynents at those two places : but the reader will not be displeased
at my here inserting a curious inscription, in Boustrophedon,
from Branchidae. It was copied by Sir W. Gell from tiie chair
of a sitting statue on the Sacred Way, or road leading from the
sea to the temple of Apollo Didymeus. ITiis road — bordered on
either side with statues on chairs of a single block of stone, with
the feet close together and the hands on the knees — is an exact
imitation of the avenues of the temples in Eg\'pt. The inscrip-

240

Ch. 6.

theatre of Miletus at Paldtia, we have accurate
data for judging of the progress of the encroach-

tion (which is perfect to the right and incomplete to the left) is
as follows :

J

M Q A.A'Af

AH I P

sfl'VXo

The name at the beginning was probably Hermesianax. It
appears by (Ion, for us) ayedyjKey, that the inscribed
statue speaks for them all. The word at the beginning of line 3
may possibly be BPANKIAEU. Of the crasis instanced in TH-
IlOAAnNJ, there are several examples in the Sigeian inscrip-
tion, in the Eleian tablet, and in other monuments of a time
when the Greeks wrote rather by sound than grammar. It
seems to have been particularly at the end of inscriptions that
the Greek car required .an agreeable cadence and combination
of vowel sounds ; and hence their inscriptions sometimes ended
in metre, although the former part was not constructed by any
such rules. Thus the last line of the following Doric inscrip-
tion on a helmet lately found at Olympia appears to be the end
of a hexameter verse : a supposition which will account for th^
crasis or omission of two of the vow-els.

B l A K r / /V O/VV E’/vro('

KA ^ >

TO //APolcv^NA^

V 6 xa) oi Svpaxovffioi rw AitTuppr^yd. oiirb KvfJLijf.

The

Ch. 6.

241

rnents of the Mseander upon the sea, as well as for
determining the sites of the two towns of Pyrrha and
Myus, the situation of which relatively to Miletus
is accurately described by Strabo

The reader has perceived that in the question

The single instead of double liquid in T\^RAN A, seems to
have been not uncommon in the old Doric — we have A A A A012)
for ctKKi^^.ois in the Eleian tablet.

This curious inscription relates to a military expedition of
Hiero king of Syracuse, son of Deinomenes, (commonly Ccalled
Hiero the First,) in aid of the people of Cyme, who had suffered
severely from the Tyrrhenian fleet. (Diod. 1. 11 . c. .0 1 .) The tri-
remes of Hiero gained a brilliant victory and destroyed a great
number of Tyrrhenian ships ^ and the helmet seems to have been
among the Tyrrhenian spoila which upon this occasion fliero
and his Syracusans dedicated at Olympia. A few years before
this exploit, the same prince had obtained a victory in the
Olympic games, which the first Ode of Pindar has made
more illustrious than the historian Diodorus has rendered his
triumph over the Tyrrhenians : though the poet alludes also to
the latter victory. (Pyth. I. v. 137.) Pausanias, who has de-
scribed (Eliac. post. c. 12. Arcad. c. 42.) the magnificent de-
dications of Deinomenes the son of Hiero, in honour of his fa-
ther s three victories in the Olympic games, says nothing of
the offerings of Hiero after his success over the Tyrrhenians :
but so numerous were these martial dedications at Olympia,
that the omission is not surprising. Pausanias had enough to
do to describe the great monuments of art and religion.

* . . . . Jr) UuppOLv •rrX'ivs exarov

•jfov (rraSiujv. Mutpov Ss rXJov ro gctto eis Hpdx^aiay

xoXri'lJovrr EuflurXo/a S* elg Uvppav Jx MiXijroy rpioiK'jvroc'

roa’auTYfV l;^ei fji.a.icpOTropia.v 6 ratca yrjv rXou^ .... Ex Sg Uvppag
sir) rr^v JxooXijv rou MatsivS^ou rgyrjjx^vra .... dycticXiva-avri
^ viry}psrixo7s c‘}td(ps'ri rpidKOVta ora^iouf ifoXij Muouf . . . .’'EvSgy

Jy re^vapvi xwpLi^ Kapix^ ©yM,fo<a raa rfy A^pvov

R

242

Ch. 0.

concerning the site of Alabanda, that of Tralles
has been assumed to have been at Ghiuzel-hissar.
It is now time to show that Smith, as well as Po-
cocke and Chandler, who too blindly followed the
opinion of Smith, were wrong in supposing that
town to stand on the site of Magnesia — an error
which infallibly led to others of equal importance.
M. Barbid du Bocage in the notes to his translation
of Chandler gave convincing reasons for thinking
that Ghiuzel-hissar occupied the position of Tralles:
but it was not until Mr. Hamilton explored the ruins
of Magnesia at Inekbazar*, and discovered the ruins

c^TjXatov iepov Xapmeiov XeyoiJisyoy 'titkpueirou oa Mayvij-

ffioc ^ lepos MaidvSptv .... Mfrct rov MaidySpou

0 Kara, llp^rivY^v e<rr]y aiyta\6$‘ vvap avroS UptrjyTj Ka) ij
MvKaXy) TO opos &c. Strabo, p. 63G. 1 have inserted this pas-

sage, as giving, when compared with the actual topography,
the clearest idea of the situation of the ancient places and the
state of the coast in the time of Strabo. The plain of the Mae-
aiider as it advanced upon the sea, and converted the com-
mercial shores of the maritime cities into unhealthy marshes,
successively devoted them to desolation. Myus in the time of
Strabo had recently been abandoned by its inhabitants, who had
removed to Miletus 3 but the accumulations had not yet shut
up the Latmic Gulf. Such having been the causes of the deso-
lation of the ancient sites near the mouth of the Mseander, they
are never likely to be reoccupied. In the V^oyage Pittoresque
of Choiseul Gouffier, vol. 1 . pi. 111., will be found plans by
Kaufl'er and Barbie du Bocage, explanatory of the progressive
increase of the Macandrian plain and the consequent changes in
the topogra])hy.

* Inekbazar was visited by Van Egmont and Heyman in
passing from Skalandva to Ghiuzel-hissar j and one is rather sur-

Ch. 6.

243

of the celebrated temple of Diana Leucophryene,
(which has since been measured and drawn by the
Mission of the Society of Dilettanti,) that the ques-
tion could be considered as satisfactorily determined.
The decisive reasons in proof of the positions of
Magnesia, Tralles and Nysa, as marked on the map
at Inekbazar, Ghiuzel-hissdr and Sultan -hissar,
respectively, shall here be stated as briefly as pos-
sible.

1. Magnesia was according to Pliny 15 miles*,
and according to Artemidorus 120 stadesffrom
Ephesus. This is about the real distance of Inek-
bazar, and not half that of Ghiuzel-hissar, from the
ruins of Ephesus at Aiasoluk.

2. Tralles was on the road from Physcus to
Ephesus ;};. But had Magnesia been at (ihluzel-
hissdr, Tralles, which was 18 miles according to
one author^, or 140 stades according to another j],
to the eastward of Magnesia, must have been about

prised^ that their account of the ruins at that place, although
extremely vague, did not lead geographers to the suspicion
that at Inekbazar would be found remains of Magnesia and of
the temple of Leucophryene. The general diilness and inac-
curacy of Hey man’s book may perhaps account for tliis neglect
of its authority. I am ignorant of the exact date of the Travels
of the Dutch statesman and of the Oriental scholar of the same
nation who was his companion. The English translation was
published in 1759. We are told in the Preface that the travels
occupied thirteen years.

* Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 29, t Artcm. ap. Strab. p, 503.

X Artem. ibid. § Plin. ubi supr. II Artcm. ubi supr.

R 2

244 Ch. 6.

Atshd> which is very much out of the direction from
Mdrmara to Ephesus.

3. We are told by Strabo, that to the traveller
going from' Magnesia to Tralles, with Mount Mes-
sogis on his left hand, the plain on his right be-
longed to the Magnetes, and to the people of Myus
and Miletus But the two last places were too
distant to have possessed any part of the plain
opposite to Ghiuzel-hissdr and Atshd.

4. Strabo describes Magnesia as situated in a
plain at the foot of a mountain called Thorax, not
far from the Maeander, but nearer the Lethaeus a
stream flowing from Pactyas a mountain of the
Ephesii f . Tliis description agrees precisely with
Inekbazar, in face of which are two insulated hills,
which, when all the plain of the Maeander below
Inekbazar w^as sea, were two islands called Derasidse
and Sophonia Besides the town-walls, theatre,
stadium and other indications of the aite of a

* Strabo, p. 6 18. t Strabo, p. C47. J Plin. ubi supr.

§ It appears to have been very customary with the Asiatic
Greeks to make their stadia circular at both ends. Examples
exist at Magnesia ad Mscandrum, Tralles, Aphrodisias, Laodi-
ceia ad Lycum, and Pergamum. At Magnesia, Tralles, Sardes^
and Pergamum, the theatre is placed on one side of the sta-
dium thus,

Under the Romans the stadium was sometimes converted into

Ch. 6.

245

great city, are the vast prostrate fragments of an oc*
tastyle Ionic temple, the peristyle of which was near
200feet in length, and was formed of columns more
than 4 feet and a half in diameter. It agrees perfect-
ly with the description given of the temple of Diana
at Magnesia by Vitruvius * and Strabo f ; the former
of whom informs us that this building was a pseu-
dodipterous octastyle of the Ionic order, and the lat-
ter that it was larger than any temple in Asia except
those of Diana Ephesia and of Apollo Didyincus,
and that it surpassed even the Ephesian temple in
harmony and in the construction of the cell (r^ ev-
xai rn xaraaxiv^v rov ar,xov

toTm hapioei). Among the ruins are seen inscribed
pedestals which formerly supported statues of Nerva
and Marcus Aurelius ; one of these is dedicated by
a high priest and scribe of the Magnetes; and on
another fragment were found the names of some
priestesses of Artemis Leucophryene:}:.

an amphitheatre, by building a curved wall across its breadth, so
as to form with one of the circular ends a circle or oval. An
inscription at Laodiceia, boasting of such a pitiful conversion
of the stadium at that place, hiis been published by Chandler :
and Pococke remarked the remains of a similar operation in the
stadium of Ephesus. It appears from Strabo that there was an
amphitheatre at Nysa : and there is one still e.\istingat Perga-
mum ; the latter is a building separate from the theatro-stadium.

* Vitruv. pr®f. in 1. 7 . t Strabo, p. 047.

1 .

AYTOKPATOPA KAISAPA
TON rilS KAI 0A.\A2-

*

4 -

246

Ch, 6

5. The ruins of Tralles are found above the
modern town of Ghiuzel-hissdr, in a situation such

SIIS AESnOTHN MAP-
AYP- ANTONEINON EY-
SEBIl P:YrYXll SE
BASTON M- AYP- STPA-
TONEIKOS K. SIAIKIOS
lEPOKAIIS- R* M- AYP-

04»IAHT()S‘ K- AYP

MAS. K. AYP TAS

01 APXIEPEIS KAI rPAM
MATEIS ANEST (rifrav)
AOnSTEYONTOS
KPISIIOY ASIA. ..

2 .

. . . AESTl

. . . PATOPA KA . . . .

.,M. AYP. ANTO...-
..NON EYSEBH E....

. S AlAIANOS O . . .

. EYS KAI rPAMMA-
. S TIIS MAPNITON
. EaS KAI . .

3.

IK-

PEIA ElMiNEl’O APTE-
MIAOS AEYK04>PYI1-
NIIS ActPOAEISIA N

On the same btone as the preceding :

Al'AOIl TYXH
lEPEIA EFENETO AP-
TEMIAOS AEYK()<M"Y-

Ch. 6.

247

as Strabo * has described — a table summit strong
by nature (ligvrotf l-ri rmgj cIk^ccv r)(/)VTog

igvfivfju). The only ruin well defined is that of the
theatre and stadium, which formed one building.
The Ionic temple of iEsculapius built by Argelius,
which Vitruvius mentions i*, as well as the other
works of the purer times of Grecian art, seem to
have been buried by earthquakes beneath the ruins
of later buildings ; among which are many remains
of the architecture of the Lower Enn)ire, vestiges
of the restoration of Tralles by Andronicus Palaeo-
logus;};. Pococke copied a Latin inscription at Ghi-
uzel-hissar in which the name of Tralles occurs, but

Although Miignesia was iin AEolic city foiindcd hy Thessali-
ans, (Strabo, p. 647.) no inscriptions have been found there
in the iEolic dialect.

Pausanias in enumerating the great temj)Ies of Ionia has
omitted that of Magnesia, possibly beeiiuse he did not consider
its district a part of Ionia. He stales the temph* of Kphesus
to have been the first both for size and riches ; next, the tem-
plc.s of Apollo at Branchid® and at Colophon, neither of which
was ever finished ; then the temple of Juno at Samus and of
Minerva at Phoc®a, both of which had been burnt by the Per-
sians, but were still objects of admiration : and after them the
temples of Hercules at Erythr®, and of Minerva at Priene ; the
former remarkable for its antiquity, the latter for the statue
which it contained. Pausan. Achaic. c. The remark of Pau-
sanias on the temple of Samus, which in magnitude was second
only to that of Diana Ephesia, may account for the neglect of
it by Strabo and Vitruvius. The latter was so ill-informed as
to call it a Doric building.

* Strabo, p. 648. i Pnef. in 1.7.

{ Pachymer. Hist. 1. 6. c. ‘JO. Nicephor. Greg. 1. .0. c. o.

248

Ch. 6.

without having observed it. It is found also in two
inscriptions copied at Ghiuzel-hissdr by Sherard.
The site of Tralles is traversed by a torrent answer-
ing to the ancient Eudon.

6. At Sult^n-hissdr, not far to the westward of
Nasli, are the remains of a large city, corresponding
with the description which Strabo has given of Nysa.
Nysa was situated for the greater part on the slope
of Mount Messogis, and was divided by a torrent
so as to appear like two separate towns — a bridge
traversed this torrent in one place, and in another
the valley was occupied by an amphitheatre, beneath
which flowed the torrent*. Chandler’s account of
the ruins at Sultan-hiss4r is exactly conformable
with this description of Nysa, — so perfectly in re-
gard to the remark of Strabo on the appearance of
a double city, that Chandler supposed the western
division to be Tralles, and the eastern Nysa. Po-
cocke has reported an inscription found at Nasli,
which contains the words ny2AE1S and mastay-
PElTOY. Possibly Nasli may have been the site of
Mastaura.

The situation of the other dependencies of Nysa,
— namely Briula, Aromata, celebrated for its vines,
and Acharaca where was a Plutonium and cavern,
— have not yet been discovered. The latter was not
far from Nysa on the road to Tralles f.

It may be inferred from Strabo that Hydrela
* Strabo, p. 649. t Id- Ibid,

Ch, 6.

249

also was in this part of the valley ; and notwith-
standing his remark* — that when the three towns
founded by Hydrelus and his two brothers fell into
decay, their united population formed the single
one of Nysa, — Hydrela appears to have flourished
at the time of the Roman wars in Asiaf.

To the eastward of the Marsyas, or river of
Tshina, several other smaller streams join the Mae-
ander on its southern bank. That which is nearly
opposite to Nasli may perhaps be the Harpasus,
w'hich flow’ed near the town of Harpasa:|: ; for we
learn from Pococke that some ruins in this situ-
ation are called Arpas-Kdlesi. Not far to the east-
ward of this stream is another, which descends
from Gheira and Karajasu. On the eastern side of
its junction with the Mjeander are the remains of
an ancient city. Tliis was probably Antiocheia,
which stood at the junction of the Mosynus with
the Maeander ; having a bridge over the latter river,
and a fertile territory on either bank||. At this
bridge it appears that the great eastern road from
Ephesus to Mazaca — which passed through Mag-
nesia, Tralles, and Nysa — crossed the river, lead-
ing afterwards from Antiocheia along the left hank
to Carura and Laodiceia

* Strabo, p. 650. t Liv. L 37. c. bG.

} Plin. Hist. Nal. I. 5. c. 29.

j Pococke, vol. 2. part 2. c. I J.

I) Plin. ibid. Strabo, p. C30.

H Artemidorus ap. Strabon. p. 663.

260

Ch. f).

Other ancient sites were observed in this region
by Sherard * and Pococke : but all the ancient geo-
graphy of the country to the southward of the Mae-
ander is still involved in great uncertainty, there
being no points absolutely certain except Laodiceia
ad Lycum, Aphrodisias, and Mount Cadmus, now
called liaba-dagh.

Aphrodisias is proved to have been at Gheira,
by the numerous remains of antiquity still to be
seen at that place. Among these are several in-
scriptions containing the name of the people ; and
ruins still exist of the temple of Venus t, from
whose worship was derived the name by which the
city was most commonly known

There can be little doubt that the hot springs
observed by Pococke § and Chandler || on the south

* Sherard was accompanied in a tour to Aphrodisias in the
year 1705, by Piccninij and in another in the year 1716, by
Lisle. He copied upwards of 100 inscriptions at Aphrodisias,
which are to be found in the MS. volume already mentioned.
From two of the inscriptions of Aphrodisias, selected for publi-
cation by Chishull, it appears that Aphrodisias and Plarassa
formed one community, having a governing council and a tem-
ple of Venus common to both : coins with a legend of both
names arc also not very uncommon. Planissa is designated
as a town of Caria by Stephanus.

t Mr. Gandy, one of the architects of tlie Mission of the
Dilettanti, visited Gheira, and made drawing's of the ruins.

X Its other appellations were Ninoe, Megalopolis, and Le-
legopolis. Steph. in MgyaXij rioXij et Nivoij.

$ Pococke, vol. 2. part 2. c. 12.

II Chandler, Asia Minor, c. 65.

Ch. 6.

251

bank of the Maeander, about 12 miles west of Deni-
zlu, mark the site of Canira, which was celebrated for
its hot baths in the time of Strabo, and was then
the boundary of Caria and Phrygia. It was the same
place, probably, as the Cydrara of Herodotus ; for
either here, or at no great distance, must have been
the meeting of the three great roads which the his-
torian mentions *, one leading into Lydia through
the opening of Mount Messogis by Tripolis to
Philadelphia ; a second down the valley of the Me-
ander into Caria ; and the third into Phrygia by the
valley of the Lycus and Celsenae. Cydrara, in the
time of Herodotus, was near the frontier of the
three provinces.

Smith, in his Journey to the Seven Churches in
1671, was the first to describe the sites of Laodi-
ceia, Hierapolis, Tripolis, and Colossae. In all these
places, except Tripolis, he has been followed by Po-
cocke, or by Chandler ; and at Hierapolis, recently,
by Mr. Cockerell : the general topography and the
antiquities which exist in these places are therefore
known, although they have not yet been described
to the public with sufficient accuracy or detail f.

Laodiceiaij: preserves great remains of its impor-

* Herodot. 1. 7. c. 30.

t The Second Mission of the Dilettanti into Asia did not pe-
netrate so far as these places.

X Laodiceia is now a deserted place, called from the ruins
Eski-hissar, a Turkish word equivalent to the i’aledkastro,
which the Greeks so frequently apply to ancient sites.

252

Ch.6.

tance as the residence of the Roman governors of
Asia under the emperors; namely, a stadium in un-
common preservation, three theatres, one of which
is 450 feet in diameter, and the ruins of several
other buildings

There are few ancient sites more likely than Lao-
diceia to preserve many curious remains of antiquity
beneath the surface of the soil : its opulence, and
the earthquakes to which it was subject f , rendering
it probable that valuable works of art were often
there buried, beneath the ruins of the public and
private edifices And a similar remark, though
in a smaller degree perhaps, will apply to the other
cities of the vale of the Maeander, as well as to some
of those situated to the north of Mount Tmolus :
for Strabo informs us that Philadelphia, Sardes, and
Magnesia of Sipylus were not less than Laodiceia
and the cities of the Maeander, as far as Aparneia at
the sources of that river, subject to the same dread-
ful calamity^.

Ilierapolis, now called Tabuk-Kale or Pambuk-
Kale, owed its celebrity, and probably the sanctity
indicated by its name, to its very remarkable sources

* Antiquities of Ionia, part 2. p. 32. — Chandler, Asia Minor,
c. 67.

t Cicero. Epist. ad Am. 1. 2. ep. 17. 1. 3. ep. 5. 1. 5. ep. 20.
Tacit. 1. 14. c. 27.

X . . . . Ei ycip ns aAAij kol) AaoSima sSersia'ros not} T^s
to TrXiov. Strabo, p. 578.

X Strabo, p. 579, 628, 630.

Ch. 6.

253

of mineral water, the singular effects of which,
caused by the rapid accutnulalion of its deposit, are
shown by the narratives of Pococke and Chandler*
to have been accurately described by Strabo f . A
great number and variety of sepulchres are found
on the different approaches to the site, which is a
commanding hill overlooking the valleys of the Ly-
cos and Maeander. and terminating on that side in
a precipice. The town-walls are seen on the other
sides, and the main street is traced in its whole
length, bordered by three Christian churches, one of
which is upwards of 300 feet long. About the mid-
dle of the street, just above the mineral sources, Po-
cocke, in 1740, thought that he distinguis hed some
remains of the temple of Apollo, which according
to Damascius, quoted by Photius, was in this situ-
ation Chandler distinguished the area of a
stadium in a recess of the mountain., But the

* Pococke, vol. 2. part 2. c. 13. — Chandler*, Asia Minor,
c. 68.

t Strabo, p. 629, 630. Chandler found at the theatre the
beginning of an encomium of Hicrapolis :

’Aa/oof fifouri^ oi/oes; »7r«.>T6Hf

'Kotlpoi^ 'irpTutcc vv

dyhuiTn<Ti KiKctaixiitvi

And Smith was the first to copy an inscription mentioning a
company of dyers :

Touto ro 'i,Q6iov ffT6(pxuoi ^ ioyttaix to»u

The latter illustrates Strabo, who tells us the wa lers of Hicrapolis
were famous for dyeing.

X Phot. Biblioth. p. 1054.

254

Ch. 6.

principal ruins are a theatre and gymnasium, both
in a state of uncommon preservation; the former
346 feet in diameter, the latter nearly filling a
square space of 400 feet the side.

Of Tripolis we have a very imperfect description
by Smith. Chandler saw at a distance the theatre
which Smith mentions. Lucas, the only other tra-
veller who has visited the site, was incompetent to
give a 'description of its antiquities; and all that can
be understood from his narrative is, that he really
did pass by Tripolis, though he writes Kosh-Ye-
nije, a village near the ruins of Tripolis, Kasha-
shead, amd Painbuk-Kdlesi, Bambour-quezer.

The remains of Colossa; were found by Smith
and Poc.ocke below the modern Khunas; which
name ser ves to identify the site, as we learn from
Constant! ne Porphyrogennetus * that Colossi was
in his time called Chonse (XSmi). Herodotus f
mentions a subterraneous course of the Lycus for
about half a mile near this place; but no traveller
has yet veri lied this observation of the historian, or
has ascerta ined the existence of the salt lake of
Anava betw een Colossse and Apatncia .}:.

M. Barbit du Bocage, in his notes to the French

* Const. Po rpliyrog. dc Them. 1. 1. tli. 3. The bishops of
Chonae subscri bed to the second Nicene Council in 787, one
hundred iind fifi iy years before Porphyrogennetus.

t Herodot. 1. . 7. c. 30.

I Herodot. i bid. Strabo, p. 57U.

Ch. 6.

265

translation of Chandler’s Travels, has justly re-
marked that Chandler very improperly blames Po-
cocke for having misunderstood the geography of
this part of the country. It was Chandler himself
who erred, in mistaking the river Caprus for the
Lycus, and the Lycus for the M«eander. But al-
though Pococke was right, he did no more than
follow Smith, who clearly saw that the river which
he crossed between Kosh-Yenije and Tabuk-Kalesi
is the Mseander ; that the stream between Tabuk-
Kdlesi and Eski-hissdr (Laodiceia) is the Lycus ;
and that the small rivers which meet at the site of
Laodiceia are the Caprus and the Asopus.

The valleys of four parallel rivers with the in-
terjacent ridges of mountains, form the leading
features of that beautiful and fertile country in the
middle part of the western extremity of Asia Mi-
nor, which comprehended the ancient provinces of
Ionia, Lydia, and Mysia.

The Maeander and Hermus, which (in proceed-
ing from south to north) are the first and tiiird of
those rivers, are nearly equal as well in magnitude as
in the length of their course, which is between two
and three hundred miles. The fourth or northern-
most river, the Caicus, although not so celebrated
as the Caystrus, which is the second in the above-

256

Ch. 6.

mentioned order, is much more considerable in size.
Deriving its origin from the same mass of Olym-
pene mountains which give rise to the Hermus and
the Rhyndaciis, it is formed of two large branches,
either of which is as long in its course as the Cay*
strus. But the latter, although little more than
/O miles in length, collects all the waters from the
adjacent slopes of the great mountains Tmolus
and Messogis ; and thus becomes a stream of con-
siderable magnitude at Ephesus, where it joins
the sea.

There is very little certainty as to the nanres and
positions of the ancient cities which occupied the
valley of the Caystrus. The evidences of ancient
history are so scanty with regard to them, that it
is only from the discovery of their ruins, and of
ancient inscriptions, that we can hope to ascertain
either their situations or their names.

The remains of antiquity at Ber^ki, on the south-
ern side of Tmolus, seem from Strabo and Ovid
to have belonged to Hypacpa*; and it is not im-
probable that, in the fertile and delightful region

* riget arduus alto

Tmolus in adscensu : clivoque extentus utroque
Sardibus hinc, illinc parvis finitur Ilypacpis.

Ovid. Mctam. 1. 11. v. 150.

Ss Karata,ivov<riv diro rov TawAow irsos

TO rov l^ocvorrpov TreSlov. Strabo, p. C27.

Ch. 6.

•2o7

on the summit of the mountain between Ber4ki
and Sart (Sardes), a part of which is occupied by
a large lake, there might be found some remains
of the city Tinolus ; which, together with many of
the surrounding places, was destroyed by an earth-
quake in the fifth year of the reign of Tiberius
From the many remains of antiquity at Tyre, it
appears that this large and advantageously-situated
modern town is the successor of the chief Grecian
city of that part of the country. It is known from
Strabo and Pliny f, that the valley of the Caystrus
was divided into that of Ephesus towards the sea ;
the plain properly called Caystrian ; and the Cil-
bian plain : above the last were the Cilbian moun-
tains, in which the Caystrus had its sources. We
find that the Caystriani, the lower Cilbiani, and the
upper Cilbiani, coined each their own money, with
the name of the people inscribed ;{: ; and they had
undoubtedly each a chief town in which the coinage
took place. As Tyre stands in the central part of
the Caystrian valley, it probably occupies the site of
the city of the Caystriani: whether this place had any

* Tacit. Ann. 1. 2. c. 47. Euscb. Chron.
t Strabo, p. 440, ri20, 029. Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 29.
t See Eckhel Doct. Num. Vet. vol. 3. p. 96 •, where several
coins are described, with the legends KAT2TPIANX1N, KIA-
BIANUN THN KATH and KIABfANflN THN Abiil. But
it seems that not only the upper and lower Cilbiani, but that
settlers also in their country, from Nicaea and Pergamum, had
their separate coinage. Kckhel. ibid.

258

Ch. 6.

other name cannot be discovered in ancient history.
Larissa Ephesia, which possessed a temple of Apollo
Larissenus, and was supposed to have been anciently
a city of much greater importance than it was in
the time of Strabo, stood in another part of the
Caystrian plain, 180 stades from Ephesus, towards
Mount Tmolus*. There was another Larissa, 30
stades distant from Tralles, on the road leading
from thence across the Messogis into the plain of
Caystnis, from whence the worship of Jupiter La-
rissius at Tralles had its origin f .

Although the remains of Ephesus are still very
considerable and of easy access, they have hardly
yet been sufficiently explored, or at least they have
not yet been described to the public with the accu-
racy and detail which they merit. The temple of
Diana Ephesia, the largest and most celebrated of
the Asiatic Greek buildings, is the only one of the
great examples of the Ionic order, of which we do
not now possess particulars more or less satisfac-
tory. The temples at Samus, Branchidse, Priene,
Magnesia, and Sardes, have been measured and
drawn by experienced architects; — but not a stone
has yet been discovered that can with certainty be
ascribed to the Ephesian temple, although very
little doubt remains as tonts exact situation

* Strabo, p. 620. t Strabo, p. 440.

t The total di.s.appearance of .such a va.st edifice as the tem-
ple of Diana Ej)hesia is to be ascribed to two causes, both arising

Ch. 6.

259

There has been some difference of opinion with
regard to the ancient maritime sites between

from its situation. Its position near the sea has facilitated
the removal of its materials for the use of new buildings during
the long period of Grecian barbarism j while that gradual
rising of the soil of the valley, which has not only obstructed
the port near the temple, but has created a plain of three miles
between it and the sea, has buried all the remains of the temple
that may have escaped removal. Enough of these however, it
is probable, still exists beneath the soil to enable the architect to
obtain a perfect knowledge of every part of the construction.

It is remarkable that all the greatest and most costly of the
temples of Asia, except one, are built on low and marshy spots :
those of Samus, Ephesus, Magnesia, and Sardes, are all so
situated. It might be supposed that the Greek architects, hav-
ing to guard against earthquakes, as against the most cruel
enemy of their art, and having ample experience in all the con-
comitant circumstances of these dreadful convulsions, which arc
the peculiar scourge of all the finest parts of Asia Minor, were
of opinion that a marshy situation offered some security against
their effects. I3ut the custom seems rather to be connected with
the character of the Ionic order, which is itself associated with
that of the Asiatic (ireeks. While the massy and majestic Doric
was best displayed on a lofty rock, the greater propi»rtional height
of the elegant Ionic required a level, surrounded with hills. So
sensible were the Greeks of this general principle, that the co-
lumns of the Doric temple of Nemea, which is situated in a nar-
row plain, have proportions not less slender than some examples
of the Ionic order. In fact, it was situation that d(»terinined the
Greeks in all the varieties of their architecture j and, so far
from being the slaves of rule, there are no two exjimplcs of the
Doric, much less of the Ionic, that exactly resemble, either in
proportion, construction, or ornament, it must be admitted,
however, that the colonies of Italy and Sicily appear to have been
less refined in taste ; and, like all colonies, to have adhered to
ancient models longer than the mother-country.

260

Ch. 6.

Ephesus and Cape Trogilium, which was the est-
treme point of Mount Mycale. Strabo* describes
this coast in the following terms : Beyond the
strait formed by Samus and Mycale, in sailing
towards Ephesus, a part of the coast on the right
hand belongs to the Ephesii and a part to the
Samii; — the first place is Panionium, situated three
stades above the sea. Here is held the common
festival of the lonians, who sacrifice to Neptune
Heliconius ; the priesthood belongs to the people of
Priene. Next occurs Neapolis, which the Ephesii
exchanged with the Samii for Marathesiurn, the
latter being nearer to them; then Pygela, a small
city; then the port Panormus, and the temple of
Diana Ephesia.”

The uninhabitable aspect of the rocks and fo-
rests of Mycale from Cape Trogilium to the mo-
dern TshangH, is such as make it impossible to fix
upon any spot, either on the face or at the foot of
that mountain, at which Panionium can well be
supposed to have stood. TshangH, on the other
hand, situated in a delightful and well watered val-
ley between two projecting points of the moun-
tain, was admirably suited to the Panionian festi-
val : and here Sir William Gell found, in a church
on the sea-shore, an inscription in which he di-
stinguished the name of Panionium twice. I con-

* Strabo, p. 639.

Ch. 6.

261

ceive, therefore, that there can be little doubt of
Tshangh being on the site of Panionium.

Several travellers in passing from Ephesus to
Skalanova have remarked the ruins of a small town
near the sea, at about one-third of the distance
from the former place to the latter. These are
probably the remains of Pygela ; though I am not
aware how far the neighbouring coast will answer
to Livy’s description of Pygela as a harbour*.
Between this spot and TshangH there are only
two places which we can suppose to have been an-
ciently occupied by towns : one is Skalanova ; the
other is half-way between Skalanova and TshangH ;
where, in a valley watered by a stream, is a source
of hot water, near the ruins of a fortress, which,
although it appears to have been a work of the
Lower Greek Empire, contains some remains of
an earlier age. This latter I take to be the site of
Neapolis, which the Ephesii built, and afterwards
exchanged with the Samii ; and Skalanova stands
probably on the ancient Marathesium.

The survey bv Captain Beaufort of the coast be-
tween Skalanova and the canal of Khio, illustrates
ancient history in the most satisfactory manner.
There still exist on this coast some remains of two
celebrated buildings— the Ionic temple of Bacchus
at Teos, and the temple of Jupiter Clarius at No-

* Liv. 1. 37. r. II.

262

Ch. 6.

tium, the port of Colophon *. The chief written
evidence is supplied by Livy and Strabo ; and upon
this the map will be found a sufficient comraen*
tary.

Although the ancient names to the westward of
Teos are not so certainly fixed as those to the east-
ward of that place, one can hardly doubt that the
harbour of Sykid, on the west side of Cape Corycus,
now K6raka, was the port called Corycus; for Livy
describes Corycus both as a promontory of the Teii
and as a harbour. In the war between Antiochus
and the Romans, in the year b. c. 193t, Polyxeni-
das, commander of the fleet of Antiochus, hearing
that the Roman fleet was approaching from Delus,
and being desirous of coming to an engagement
with them before they should be joined by Eu-
menes and the Rhodii, sailed from Phocsea with a
hundred vessels of a small class, of which seventy
were covered. Having passed through the channel
of Chius, he anchored in Cyssus, a port of the Ery-
thrasi. The Romans sailed from Delus to Phanae
in Chius, and from thence, after taking in provi-
sion at the city of Chius, they proceeded to Phocsea;

* (’olophon stood at a disUuice of two miles from the shore.
Liv. 1. 37. e. 26. The temple of Clams has not yet been suf-
ficiently examined, although, according to Captain Beaufort, its
remains are not inconsiderable 3 and, what is curious in this
part of the country, it was of the Doric order. For Teos, sec
Antiquities of Ionia, part 1. c. I.

t Liv. 1. 36. c. 13.

Ch. 6.

263

where they were joined by Eumenes from Elsea, the
port of Pergamum, with twenty-four covered, and
many open vessels. The combined fleet, amount-
ing to 200 ships, (a fourth of which were unco-
vered,) then sailed along the shore, with the view
of passing into port Corycus, which was beyond
Cysaus. Polyxenidas, when he saw the enemy ap-
proach, advanced against them, and was defeated.
Cyssus, from this transaction, seems to have been
the harbour now called Latzdta, the largest on this
part of the coast; and it is probably the same which
Strabo calls Casystes *. Tshisme, noted for more
than one Turkish disaster, seems to be the port
Phoenicus of the Erythrsei, in which the Homans
anchored after the action, on their way to the city
of Chius. The remains of Brythrse are found con-
siderably to the northward of Tshisme, in a port
sheltered by the islands, anciently called Hippif.

As Strabo states the entrance into the canal
of Chius on this side, between Cape Argennum
of the main land and Cape Poseidium of Chius, to
have been sixty stades in breadth, these two capes
could be no others than the promontories marked
with those names in the map ; the real distance
agreeing exactly with the ancient number.

Tlie next place to Poseidium, in coasting the

* Strabo, p. 644. 1 Cliandler, Asia Minor, c. 2.').

I Strabo, «bi sup.

264

Ch, 6.

island with the shore on the right hand; was Pha-
nae*, which is described by Livy as a harbour
turned toward the iEgean (portuiii Chioruin in
iEgeum mareversum), and in another place as a
promontory (promontorium Chioruin). We have
already seen that it was the place at which the Ro-
man fleet touched in proceeding from the isle of
Delus to the Pergamenian coast ; on another occa-
sion they assembled at Phanae, previously to their
sailing to the same island f: it seems therefore to
have been in the bay on the western side of the
southernmost cape of Chius.

The other ancient names of this island have been
placed on the map, as well as the information af-
forded by the ancient authors J compared with the
blind accounts of the modern travellers Pococke
and Ileyman would admit.

The rivers Ilerinus and Caicus, each of which is
formed by the union of two branches meeting at
thirty or forty miles above the mouth, water two
extensive valleys equal in natural advantages to

* Strubo, p. 645. f Liv. 1. 36. c. 43. — 1. 44. c. 28.

t Particularly llerodut. in vita Horn. Thucyd. 1. 8. c. 24.
Strabo, ubi sup. There is a manifest error in regard to the
breadth of the island in our copie.K of Strabo, which assign 60
stades for the interval between Elaeus on the western side, and
the city Chius on the eastern : — the narrowest part of the island
cannot be le.ss than double that distance.

Ch. 6*

265

those of the Mseander and Caystrus, and ndt ex-^
ceeded in beauty and fertility by any in the world.
Sardes was the chief city of the valley of the Her-
inus, and Pergamuin in that of the Caicus. Both
have retained the ancient name a little corrupted
by the Turks : but while Pergamum continues to
be the capital of the surrounding country, Sardes
has yielded to Magnesia of Mount Sipylus, and has
dwindled to a small village. This village however
and its vicinity have to boast of two of the most
interesting remains of antiquity in Asia; the colossal
tumulus of Alyattes near the lake Gygsea*, and the
vast Ionic temple of Cybebe |* or the Earth, on the
bank of the Pactolus;}:. Here is also a theatre con-
nected with a stadium, and the ruins of a large
church, perhaps the only one of the Seven Churches

* Herodot. 1. 1. c. 93.

t Herodot. 1. ."». c. I02.—Strabo, Chrest. 1. 10.

+ 'Opso-ripa Yd

Mdrsp avTOu Aioj

*A roy fJLsyay IlaxrwXov eS^vu-ov y£ii.si;,

Sophoci. Philoct. V. 395.

From a drawing of the temple by Peyssonel in 1750, it ap-
pears there were then standing three columns with their archi-
traves, a part of the cella, and three detached columns. Mr.
Cockerell found there in 1812 only three columns standing
with their capitals} but enough remained of the ruins to satisly
him that it was of the kind called by Vitruvius Octastylus Di-
pterus — that the exterior columns of the peristyle were about
7 feet in diameter at the base, and that the ^jeristylc was up-
wards of 2d0 feet in length.

2(56 Ch. 6.

of Asia of which there are any distinguishable re-
mains.

Pergamum retained under the Romans that su-
periority over all the cities of Asia which it had
acquired under the successors of Philetserus : and
it still preserves many vestiges of its ancient mag-
nificence. Remains of the Asclepium and of some
other temples ; of the theatre, stadium, amphithea-
tre, and several other buildings, are still to be seen*.

There is a confusion of namqs in regard to the
two branches of the Hermus, similar to' that which
1 have already had occasion to notice in the in-
stances of the Sangarius and Maeander. It seems
clear from Homerf and from Strabo;}:, that the
branch of the Hermus which waters the plain of
Ak-hissar, and which joins the main stream not far
from Magnesia, is the ancient Hyllus, which in the
time of Strabo was called Phrygius; for we find no
mention in ancient history of any other tributary
stream of the Hermus, with the exception of the
C!ogamus near Philadelphia, that of Sardes the
famed Pactolus, and a third the Cryus, obscurely
named by Pliny, and which was probably of no

* Clioiseul Gouffier. Voyage Pittoresque de la Gr^cc, tome 2.
c 13.

t rot ref/,£yo; •garptoiov sariv,

’TAXo; STT Ix^udevrt, Ka)’'Eppiaj SiyTisvri. II. T. 392.

X Strabo^ p. 554. . . ets ov xa) 6 apXiW^t,

yvv xaAoJaevo;. Strabo, p. 626.

Ch. 6.

267

greater magnitude than the other two just men-
tioned. Nor in fact is there any stream of import-
ance joining the main river now called Kodus or
Ghedis, in the lower part of its course, except the
river of Ak-hissdr. The course of the main stream,
moreover, agrees exactly with the description which
Strabo has given of the Hermus. “ It rises,” he
says, “ in the sacred mountain Dindymene, flows
through the Catacecaumene into the district of Sar-
des, and from thence through the subjacent plains
into the sea*.”

From Livy however, in his narrative of the trans-
actions which preceded the decisive victory gained
by the Romans over Antiochus at Magnesia, it seems
evident that Phrygius was the name by which the
southern or main branch of the Hermus was better
known to the Romans. Antiochus had collected
his forces at Thyateira, when his opponent the
Consul Lucius Cornelius Scipio crossed the Hel-
lespont, and moved in six days from Ilium to the
sources of the Caicus. Here he was joined by
Eumenes from Elsea; and from hence, on the sup-
position that the king was still near Thyateira, he
nmrched to meet him, and moved in five days into
the Hyrcanian plain. But Antiochus in the mean

• Pliny (Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 29.) says that the Mermus rises
near Dorylaeum of Phrygia j which although not a very accurate
de.scription, agrees at least with the distant origin of the Ko-
diis in the mountains adjoining to Olympus.

268

Ch. 6.

time had quited Thyateira, and after having
the river Phrygius^ had entrenched himself at
Magnesia. The Consul followed on the opposite
side of the river, until he arrived in the enemy’s
presence. When the armies had remained in this
position, with the river between them, for two days,
the Romans crossed it and took up a position with
their left to the stream, consequently to the west-
ward of the position of Antiochiis, which was pro-
bably done for the sake of securing a communication
with the fleet at Ekea, and a retreat in that direction
in case of necessity. After his defeat Antiochus
fled to Sardes and Apameia.

From these transactions it cannot well be doubted
that Livy applies the name of Phrygius to the
southern or main branch of the Hermns, in con-
tradiction to Strabo, who identifies it with the
northern. And in this the historian agrees with
Pliny*, who by distinguishing the Phryx from the
Hyllus, and by observing that the Phryx gave name
to Phrygia, and that it separated that province from
Caria, shews clearly that he applied the name Phryx
to the largest, and at the same time to the southern-
most branch. This instance serves, like that of the

* Mermus .... oritur juxta Dorilaiiim Phiygiie civitatcm
muUosque colligit fluvios, inter quos Phrygom, qui nomine
genti dato a Caria earn disterminat, Hyllum et Cryon et ipsos
Phrygiw, Mysiie, Lydiw amnibus repletos. Plin. Hist. Nat. 1.5.
c. 29.

Ch. 6.

269

Sangarius^ to prove how easily a confusion of names
occurs in regard to the branches of a river.

From the direction of Scipio’s route from Troy
to the Hyrcanian plain, and from the proportion of
his marches, it may be inferred that the north-
eastern branch of the river of Bergina, which flows
by Menduria and Balikesri, is that which was an-
ciently called Caicus; — of the name of the southern
branch I have not found any trace in ancient history.

Strabo * informs us that the Caicus was joined
by the Mysius flowing from Temnum; and that
this mountain separated the valley of the Caicus
from the plain of Apia, which bordered on Thebe
and Adramyttium. Such is our ignorance of the
real structure of this part of the country, that it is
only from the ancient geographer that we have any
knowledge either of the mountain or the river.

Notwithstanding the facilities which were so long
given to the researches of travellers by the favourable
disposition of the ruling Turkish family of Kara-
Osman-Oglu, added to the influence of the Eu-
ropean factories at Smyrna, even the most accessi-
ble parts of the valleys of the Herrnus and Caicus
and of their interjacent ridges are still very insuffi-
ciently explored. It seems strange to say, that of
a coast so near to Smyrna as that between the
mouths of the Herrnus and Caicus, we possess no
delineation that can be relied on; and consequently
* Strabo, p. 616.

•270

Ch. 6.

no satisfactory information upon the very interesting
positions of Leucse, Phocaea, Cyme, iEgse, Neonti-
chus, M)nina, and Gryninm; the latter noted for a
magnificent temple of Apollo, of white marble*.

In short, with the exception of Temmis, which
appears frQ,m the Peutinger Table to have been at
Menimen; and of Nacrasa, which an inscription
mentioned by Chishullf shews to have been at
Bakir, — we have no accurate information on the
sites of any of the second-rate towns of this part of
Asia Minor — and all to the east and north of Phi-
ladelphia, Thyateira and Pergamum, as far as the
Thymbres, Mount Olympus, and the coast of the
Propontis, is little better than an unknown land, in
which there are very few ancient names that I have
been able to place with any degree of certainty.

The site of Cyzicus has been visited and imper-
fectly described by Pococke and Sestini, and Mileto-
polis appears from Chishull’s description of the neigh-
bouring lake to have been at Minids And hence
we have two lines in the Table of which the extre-
mities are known — namely, that leading from Per-
gamum to Miletopolis, and that leading from Per-

* Stmbo, p. 622 , t Antiq. Asiat. p. 14(5.

J This place was visited by Chishull in the year 1702, in his
way from Smyrna to Adrianople ; when leaving the main road
from Smyrna to Brusa to the right at Susugerli, he proceeded
from thence to the Hellespont which he crossed at Gallipoli. It
is from his route alone that I obtain any clear knowledge of the
situation and course of the TEsepas and Granicus.

garnum to Cyzicus. On the former was Hadriano-
therse for such undoubtedly is the correction that
should be made of the corrupted name in the Table,
though the distance there assigned to it of 8 M.P.
from Pergainum cannot be implicitly relied on, as
the 41 M.P. which forms the whole interval be-
tween Pergamum and Miletopolis is not half the
reality. On the road from Pergamum to Cyzicus
we find two names in the Table, which do not
occur elsewhere in ancient history — Phemeneo —
Argesis. The distance of Phemenium from Cy-
zicus is omitted in the Table: but if the other two
distances on this line are correct, the mines of Er-
gasteria mentioned by Galen were between Pheme-
nium and Argesae f .

The name of Kesri or Balikesri seems to be a
corruption of Caesareia It is the chief town of
the Turkish district of Karasi, and is situated on
the Caicus, near the great road from Smyrna to
Constantinople: it is probably the site of one of

* This Haflrianothcrae was a place of sufficient importance
to coin its own money. Eckhel Doct. Num. Vet. Bitliynia.

' f Ergasteria was at 440 stadcs from Pergamum on the road
ta Cyzicus. Galen, in proceeding to Ergasteria from Perga-
mum, remarked a great quantity of metallic substance, which
he calls molybdaena. Galen, de Medicam. Simp. 1. 0. c. 22.

X Bala, or Bali, from the Greek w not unfrequcntly

prefixed to Turkish corruptions of ancient Greek names. Abu-
bekr Ben Behrem mentions a Baliamboli (ITaXafay k6\iv) in
the district of Aidin, and a Balia in that of Karasi. Patia; in
the Peloponnesus is called by the Turks Balnbatra.

272

Ch. 6.

the numerous places which under the Romans
changed their more ancient name to Csesareia.

In some part of Mount Olympus, to the west-
ward of Brusa, we find mention made hy the Turk-
ish geographer Ahubekr, of a town called Edrentis.
There can he little doubt that this is the ancient
Hadrian^ ad Olympum or in Olympo, of which
coins inscribed with this local distinction are still
in existence*. Edrenus is no other than ’Aigiocvovs,
a slight corruption of Hadriani in the usual modern
Greek form of the accusative, like Kodus for Cadi.

The geography of the western side of the Idsean
range, which slopes to the iEgean sea and the Hel-
lespont, is in a very different state from that of the
country to the eastward of that mountain. The
natural beauties of the Troas, its accessibility by
sea, but above all its celebrity as the scene of the
Bias, have attracted a greater number of travellers
to it, than to any other part of Asia Minor f.

* Eckhel Bithynia. — Sestini, Lett. t. 2. p. 103.

t It is to M. de Choiseul Gouffier, and to those who assisted
him, that we are indebted for the best map of this interesting
region, though much still remains to be done in the details of its
topogra])liy. In 1819 Choiseul’s map received some corrections
and additions from M. Barbie du Bocage, founded upon the ob-
servations of M. Dubois, who had been sent to the Troas in the
preceding year by M. de C’hoiseul. See Voyage Pittoresque de
la Gri*ce, tom. 2. pi. 19.

(^ 1 . 6 .

273

most remarkable places in the Troas were
Assus, Lecturn, Harnaxittis, Larissa, Colonae, Alex-
andrela, Cebrene, Neandria, Cenchrese, Scamandria,
Sigeiuin, and New Ilium.

The two most important, and to which the
greater part of the population of the others was
drawn as early as the time of the successors of
Alexander, were Alexandria and New Ilium; and
these continued to be the chief towns under the
Roman emperors. Alexandria has preserved con-
siderable remains to this day. Of New Ilium only
the foundations of the walls with a few other
fragments are to be seen.

As Hamaxitus, Larissa, and Colonre, were from
their proximity to Alexandria absorbed by that city
at the time of its foundation*, we are not surprised
that no remains of them liave been remarked by
travellers. Some circumstances, howevta-, men-
tioned by Strabo i', are sufficient very nearly to fix
their positions. Hamaxitus in particular is deter-
mined by the salt-works of Tragasa*, which are still
in a state of operation on the sea-coast near the
mouth of the river of Tuzla. I'his river (perhaps
the ancient Satnioeis) does not, however, take its
name, wliich means sa/(, from the maritime salt-
works alone : there are other salt-works at some
very copious sources of hot salt water, at a consi-

t Id. pp. 140. 473, 604, 612, 620,

* Strabo, p. 604.

T

274

Ch. 6.

clerable distance from the sea, on the northern
side of the valley, where is a village called Tuzla,
and where the neighbouring hills are composed
of rock salt. This curious fact accounts for the
name Halesium, anciently applied to the di-
strict *.

As it appears from Strabo that Cebrenia bor-
dered on the territories of Antandrus, Hamaxitus,
Neandria, New Ilium, and Scepsis f, and that the
Scepsia was on the iEsepusJ, consequently on the
eastern side of the summit of Ida, — Cebrenia seems
to have occupied the higher region of Ida on the
western side, and its city very probably stood at
Kushunlu Tepe, not far from Bairamitsh, where
Dr. Ei D. Clarke, proceeding from the latter place
towards the sources of the Mendere and the sum-
mit of Ida, found very considerable remains of an-
tiquity. Tlie fine valley which extends from thence
to the modern town of Ene, seems to answer in its
upper part to the level country of Cebrenia, men-
tioned by Strabo § ; and in its lower or western
to the plain called Samonium, which belonged to
Neandria || : for Neandria being described by the
geographer as inland from Hamaxitus towards New
Ilium, and as 130 stades distant from the latter^,
corresponds exactly in position with Ene.

* Strabo, p. 605.
t Id. pp. 552, 603.
II Id. p. 472.

+ Id. pp. 596, 606.
§ Id. p. 596.

If Id. p. 606.

Ch. 6.

275

In the plain of Troy, or region watered by the
lower course of the Mendere and its branches, the
only positions proved to be ancient sites, by remains
of buildings existing in their original places, are —
1. That of New Ilium on a hill which rises to
the eastward of the villages of Kum-Kiui and Ka-
lafdlli, about 5 miles to the S. E. of Kum-Kale
or the lower castle of the Dardanells, and three
miles from the nearest shore. The vestiges of the
walls of the citadel are to be traced on the summit
of the height ; and some of the buildings of the
town, on the western slope and at the foot of the
hill: but very little now remains in its place, the
site being resorted to (as it probably has been ever
since its abandonment), as to a stone-quarry, for
the materials of modern constructions — whence we
find all the villages, farms, and particularly the
Turkish cemeteries of the surrounding country, full
of the inscribed or decorated marbles of New Ilium.
2. Paleo Aktshi Kiui. This, by its direction and di-
stance from New Ilium, corresponds exactly with the
or village of the Ilienses, described by
Strabo* as being 30 stades eastward of New Ilium
towards Ida and Dardania. 3. Paled-Kastro, near
the Turkish village of It-ghelmes, on a height over-
looking the Bosphorus. This is probably the site of
the town Rhoeteium, on a part of the sea-shore of

■ Strabo, pp. afCi, .

r 2

276

Cli. 6.

which was the iEanteium or tomb of Ajax still
existing. 4. Yenishehr, the ancient Sigeium.
5. Another Paleo-Kastro, near the mouth of the
small river which receives the canal derived from
the river of Bunarbashi. This has been supposed,
with great probability, to have been a small town
and port called Agarneia f. (5. The hill which
rises above the less or lower Bunarbashi to the
S. E., and which is bounded in the same direction
by the deep valley of the Mendere. This, it is not
improbable, was the site of Scamandria; for it may
be presumed that Scamandria being named by Pliny
together with New Ilium:}:, was in some part of the
lower plain of the Scamander, near that river; and
there is no site on the Mendere so remarkable as
that of Bunarbashi. Pliny describes Scamandria
as a small town : but it seems from an extant in-
scription to have been of sufficient importance to
make a recorded treaty with New Ilium concerning
the sale of corn .

The same heights are by many persons supposed

* Strabo, p. 59.>.

t Stephan, in ’Ayap.e<a. Hesych. ot Pluivovin. in
et ^AyaiJios. Choisoul (jouffier. Voyage Pitt, de la (ir^ce,
tom. 2. p. 3.‘1J .

J Est tamen et nunc Scamandria civitas parva, ac M. D.
passus remotum a portu Ilium immune. Plin. HLst. Nat. 1. T).
c. 30.

§ This inscription is now in the Royal Museum of Paris.
Choiseul Goulfier^ tom. 2. p. 288.

Ch. 6.

277

to have been in an earlier age tlie position of the
renowned capital of Ilus and his successors : indeed,
so many of the most intelligent travellers * in the
Troas are agreed in placing the Homeric Ilium at
Bundrbashi, that I should have been satisfied on
the present occasion with stating my concurrence
with their opinion, and with referring to the ar-
guments of such of them as have supported it by
their publications, had not some adverse systems
been recently maintained wnth great learning and
ingenuity; though chiefly, it must be admitted, by
those who have considered the question in the closet
only. I shall here offer, therefore, a few observa-
tions on this subject; first stating what appear to
me to be the strongest grounds for thinking that
Bunarbashi was the site of IVoy, and then the
principal objections that have been made to that
opinion, together with tlie arguments which occur
in reply to them | .

As even the identity of the country on the Asiatic
side of the entrance of the Hellespontine strait

I may particularly mention (Jlioiscul GouIFkt, Lcchcvalicr,
Morritt, Hawkins, II, Hamilton, and Foster.

t To those who may consider it idle to itupiirr- for a site
which was unknowa 2,000 years a.q;o, it may not be improper
to offtr the remark, that not one of the ancient authors who
have written on the Troas, with the exc(‘ption of Hom? r, w'as
so well accpiainted with tlie locality as modern travellers are j
and that notone possessed any delineation of its topograj)hy aj)-
pioaching to the accuracy of that with which we are furnished
and not yet satisfied.

278

Ch.6.

with the scene of the Tlias has been doubted, it
may not be useless to premise, that if the war of
Troy was a real event, having reference to a real to-
pography (and to doubt it would shake the whole
fabric of profane history), no district has yet been
shown that will combine even a few of the requisite
features of the plain of Troy, except that between
Kum-Kal^* and Bundrbashi: whereas in that district,
and in the surrounding country by land and by
water, we find the seas and mountains and islands
in the positions which the poet indicates, and many
of them with the same or nearly the same names.
The features which do not accord so well with his
description are those wliich are the most liable to
change in the lapse of ages, — the course and size of
the rivers, and the extent and direction of the low
coast where these waters join the sea. Instead of a
river until two large branches, udiich Homer seems
to describe, u’e find on one side of the plain a broad
torrent, reduced in the dry season to a slender brook,
and a few stagnant pools; and on the other side a
small perennial stream, which instead of joining the
former is diverted into an artificial channel, and is
thus carried to a different part of the coast. But the
diminutive size of some of the most celebrated rivers
of antiquity is well known to those who have tra-
velled in Greece ; and it must be considered that a
poet writing of a real scene is obliged to magnify
those features, which without exaggeration would

Cli. 6.

271 )

be beneath tlie dignity of his verse. In regard to
the course of the streams, it seems sufficient still
to find, at the end of three thousand years, two ri-
vers which, if they do not now unite, evidently did
so at a former period of time: and for the sources
of that stream which Homer describes as rising
under the walls of Troy, to find some very remark-
able springs, not very different in their peculiarities
from the poet’s description, and rising at the foot of
a commanding height on the edge of the plain.

For poetry this coincidence appears sufficient:
and in regard to the position of Troy itself, it seems
enough to find a hill rising above the sources just
mentioned, not only agreeing in all particulars with
the kind of position which the Greeks * usually
chose for their towns, but the only situation in this
region which will combine all the requisites they
sought for; namely, a height overlooking a fertile
maritime plain, — situated at a sufficient distance
from the sea to be secure from the attacks of pirates,
and furnished with a copious and perennial sup-
ply of water, — presenting a very strong and healthy
position for the city; and for the citadel a hill be-

* It is almost unnecessary here to remark, that the ruling
family, and hence probably a large portion of the people of
Troy, were of Greek origin, and that they had adopted the
manners and language of Greece, 'flie Dardanidie were Greeks
settled in Asia, as the Atrids were Phrygians settled in Europe.
For the history of Ilium the reader may conveniently consult
the work of Chandler, in Itfi. 1802.

280

Ch. 6.

yond the reach of bowshot from the neighbouring
heights, defended at the back by steep rocks and
precipices, surrounded by a deep valley and broad
torrent, and backed beyond the river by mountains
which supplied timber and fuel. That it was pre-
cisely such a situation as the inhabitants of Greece
and Asia in remote ages preferred, might be shown
by a great variety of examples: and it can hardly be
doubted that a person totally unacquainted with the
Ilias, but accustomed to observe the positions of an-
cient Greek towns, would fix on Bunarbashi for the
site of the chief place of the surrounding country.

It is a necessary consequence of placing Troy
on the heights to the S.E. of Bunarbashi, that the
river flowing from the sources which give that vil-
lage its name (meaning Spring-head), is the Sca-
niander of Iloiiier : that the large torrent which
flows through a deep ravine on the eastern side of
the heights, is the SImoeis : and that notwithstand-
ing the much greater magnitude of the bed of the
latter and occasionally of that stream itself, the united
river after the junction in the plain was called by
the name of the former, Scamander. In support
of this opinion, it lias been justly observed by Le-
chevalier, that Homer’s description, allowance being
made for poetical exaggeration, is correct, both as
to the springs themselves, and as to the very dif-
ferent character of the two rivers : nor can it be
denied that the two hills, that of Bunarbashi and

Ch. 6.

281

the higher eminence behind it, correspond to the
mention by Homer of Ilium and its citadel Per-
gamus. The termination of the slope towards
the springs accords also with the idea which we
receive from the poet of the extent of the city on
that side, and of the position of the gate Scjeae or
Dardanise, whicli was near the sources of the Sca-
mander, and was the principal outlet towards the
plain*. But if these assumptions are not unreason-
able, it cannot be denied on the other hand that in
attempting to identify such objects as the tombs of
Ilus, Myrinna, and Jisyetes, Lcchevalier has ex-
posed himself to reasonable objections from his op-
ponents, and has rather injured than strengthened
his cause. For it is not certain that all the monu-
ments mentioned by Homer were turnnli; and it is
very possible that if they were, several of them have
been obliterated by time. Nothing can be more
likely than that tlie real history of tlie monuments
should have been forgotten in tlie interval between
the destruction of Troy and the foundation of New
Ilium, and that names should have been ascribed
to them by the inhabitants of the latter place, suitcal
to their own system of Trojan topography, and fa-
vourable to the pretensions whicli they held, that
their city stood upon the ancient site. W^ith regard
to the existing barrows, it seems incontrovertible
only that those which stand in conspicuous situa-
Li'chcvalicr, Voyajre d*’ la Truadc, tome c. G.

•282

Cli. 6.

tions on either side of the mouth of the Scamander,
are the tumuli, supposed in the time of the Romans,
and probably with reason, to have been the sepul-
chres of Ajax, Achilles, and some other chieftains;
and these monuments are so far important, as they
prove the identity of the plain of the Mendere with
the scene of the Ilias

It is objected to the springs of Bundrbashi, that
instead of being only two, — one hot and the other
cold, as described by Homer f , — ^they are in one place
so numerous as to have received from the Turks the
name of Kirk-Ghiuz, (the Forty Fountains), and
that they are all of the same temperature.

But viewing them ns the springs of a river, they
may in poetical language, or even in common speech,
be considered as two, since they arise in two places,
distant from each other about 200 yards : in one
the water appears in a deep basin, which is noted
among the natives for being often covered with a

* A monument of the same kind is seen on the summit of
the hill above the lower European castle of the Dardanclls,
and another at the upper European castle. The latter has
been clearly described lus the Cynossema or tomb of Hecuba
(Strabo, p. 59i)) the former as the monument of Protesilaus,
near Elseus. Herodot. 1. i). c. 116. Philostr. Heroic, c. 2.

t Kpouvuj 8* X>LOLvov KOLXippouj^ £v0a Kr^ycCi
Aoia) dvat<ra-ov(n 2xaaav5/?oi; ^ivYjSyTOg'

‘H ydp 3’’ vSari Xiapw pht, Ss Kot/irvhg
riyvsrai If oevr^s mo’s) aiQojtcEvoiO*

'H trepr} ^epei ir^optsi sIkvIo, p^aXa^r

■'H X»CIH ^ vSaTOC Kp'JTTXW(p, II. X. V. 147.

Ch. 6.

283

thick vapour like smoke : in the other place, there
are numerous rills issuing from the rocks, into a
broad shallow piece of water, terminating in a
stream which is joined by that from the smoking
spring. As to the temperature of the water, the
observations of travellers give various results. Some
have observed a difference : according to others, it
w^ould appear that being all deep-seated springs, their
temperature is the same at all seasons, or about (>()“
of Fahrenheit at their eruption from the ground ;
consequently that they will feel cold when the air is
at 70‘* or 80‘*, and warm when it is at 40*’ or 50***.
But even in this case it is obvious that there will
be a real difierence between the heat of the shallow
recipient of the springs called the Forty Fountains,
and that of the single deep pool. It seems sufficient
to justify Horner’s expression, that a difference of
temperature was believed, and that an occasional
appearance of vapour over one source was often ob-
served by the natives : for the poet would probably

* Major Ilcnncll quotes several observations, all of which

make both the sources IVom bl” to O’ l® Falir. C'hoiseul says
that on the lOtli Feb. he found the utrnos})herc at 10’ Keau-
mur, the hot source at 22 % the cold source at H". Diibois from
the 12th to IGth Jan. found the tcmi)erature of the sinj^lc or
hot source from 2^ to a ’ Keaumur higher than tiie air ; and
that of the Forty Fountains, from to 1" below the heat of the
air. Although I was .several days in the 'Froas, I could not
make any observations, from an aci ident whicli l]a]»|)ened to

mv thermometer.

284

Ch. 6.

iRatter the local prejudices, even if he had examined
the fountains so attentively as to be convinced that
the warmth of all the sources was the same.

Another and a more weighty objection to the
placing of Troy on the heights of Bundrbashi, is
that the much greater magnitude of the river, which
flows on the east side of those heights, concurs
with its inodern name Mendere in showing it to
be the Scamander of Homer ; and that such was
evidently the opinion of several authors of antiquity,
particularly of Demetrius, a native of Scepsis in the
Troas, from whom Strabo principally derived his
information on the geography of this district- In
fact there can be no doubt, that in the time of
Demetrius, who wrote in the second century before
C'hrist the Mendere from its source in Mount
Kazdagh to its junction with the sea was called
Scamander. But was it so in the time of the Tro-
jan war ? In this inquiry we have nothing to do
with any authority but that of the Bias itself : for
it is evident from the remarks of Demetrius and
Strabo, that the topography of the poem and the site

Strabo, p. j!M. Demetrius visited New Ilium about the
time that Antioclms the ( Jreat was defeated l)y the Homans —
he was then a boy. He describes the town of New Ilium as
being in a state of decline, and so poor that the houses were
not covered with earthen tiles — wcrrg xsooLfMourds

(TTeyoLs : meaning probably that they were covered with what
arc called in modern (ircek Tr>.dKsc, generally made of schistose
rnnestone.

Ch. 6.

285

of Troy were as much a subject of doubt and dispute
in their time as they are at present Nor is this
surprising. The result of the Trojan war vi^as the
subversion of Ilium and the extinction (with the
exception of a single branch of the royal family) of
the colony which had settled in this part of Phry-
gia Strabo repeatedly remarks that the revo-
lutions following the Trojan war were the great
cause of the difficulty which he experienced in ad-
justing the Homeric chorography. '^I'he barbarous
people of Thrace, called Treres, who then established
themselves in the Troas, could not have taken much
interest in any thing relating to the former co-
lony, to whose language they were strangers, aiul
whose history was recorded only in the songs of an
Ionian stranger. It was not till long afterwards that
the iEolian Greeks of Lesbus extended their settle-
ments into the Troas. It was not even by them that
New Ilium was founded, but by a Lydian, and con-
sequently a semil)arl>arous colony f , about the eighth
century before Christ; and It was not till a taste for
the poems of Homer having begun to prevail in
European Greece, and the Athenians having taken

* That Troy was totally mined and abaniloned as early as
the time of the poet, is evident from his expressions in many
parts both of the Ilias and Odysseia. That it continued to be
an uninhabited place wjis the general opinion of all antiquity.

t Strabo, p. dOl. 'J'he Lydians are here called semibarbu-
rous in the Greek sense — as using a language and writing not
Greek, and yet bearing a great resemblance to it

28(5

Ch. 6.

possession ofSigeiuin* * * § and a part of theCliersonesus,
that their enlightened sovereigns Pisistratus and his
sonsf, if they were not the first to collect, arrange,
and edit the Ilias, — were at least the first to bring it
into notice among the most lettered of the Euro-
pean Greeks We cannot wonder that the Ho-
meric topography should at that time have become
subject to the same kind of uncertainty now found
to prevail in regard to such places as Athens, Rome,
Jerusalem, Alexandria of Egypt, and even many ci-
ties much more modern.

For the New Ilium founded by the Lydians, co-
lonized afterwards by the iEolians, and augmented
and first fortified with a circuit of forty stades by
Lysimachus §, a situation was chosen which, being
nearer to the sea than that of the ancient city, was
better adapted to the more advanced state of com-
merce and civilization ||. It was very natural that
its inhabitants the Ilienses ^ should pretend that

* Herodot. 1. 5. c. 9 1. Strabo, p. T) 99.

t The Pisistratidai lived at Sigeiiiin after their exile from
Athens. Herodot. 1. o. c. Co.

I Ailian. Var. Hist. 1. 13. c. 14. — Paiisan. Aehiiic. c. *2(). -
Cicero de Oral. 1. 3. c. 34. — Epig. in Anthol. 1. 4. c. 4.

§ Strabo, p. 393.

II Thucydides (1. 1. c. 7.) has remarked the oiVect of the
progress of Grecian society, in moving the settlements of the
Greeks nearer to the sea-coa.st.

11 ’iXieTj. This word is never used by Homer, who always
calls the people Trojans, Tfuisf.

Ch. 6.

287

their town stood on the site of the ancient city*;
and no less so, that a historian of a neighbouring
and kindred race should flatter them by concurring
in their opinion f . That the conquerors of Asia
likewise, and so many other illustrious visitors of
Ilium from Xerxes to the Caesars, when they found
it useful to their purposes or grateful to their va-
nity to sacrifice to Minerva IHas, should have will-
ingly followed the guidance of the priests to the
temple in New Ilium, and should have admitted
without inquiry that it stood on the site of the Per-
gamus of Priam — is nothing more than we should
expect under such circumstances. But we know
that the claim of the Ilienses was strongly contested
during the whole period in which their city flourished.
Demetrius of Scepsis and Ilestifea of Alexandria
Troas opposed it about the time of the Antio-
chian war, and Strabo subscribed to their opinion
in the Augustan age

Although Demetrius found it imj)ossihle to
assent to the claim of the Ilienses in this respect,
and seems to have been far from iniplicitly believ-
ing in the identity of all the Homeric places pointed
out by them § ; he appears never to have susj)ect(*d

* Strabo, pp. 593, 000.

t Hellanicus of Lesbus, EXXdyiy.os 'IX/tO-

<riv, &c. Strabo, p. G02. t Strabo, p. 599.

§ He .says that the greater part of the actions described by
the poet were fought in the Scamandrian plain (or 1 rojan j)ro-
perly so called) : and tlierc, he adds, the Ilienses fwinf out.
the Erineus, tlie tomb of ^^^syetes, Ha’ieia, and the tomb of

288

Ch. 6.

that the Scumander was any other than the large
torrent, to which he found that name then applied
from its mouth in the Hellespont to its distant source
in the summit of Ida called Cotylus *. It was a
necessary consequence (as all those who have con-
curred in tlie same belief have experienced) to iden-
tify the Simoeis with one of the branches of the
Mendere flowing from the eastward. The Ghium-
brek-su, the most important of the Trojan streams
after the Mendere and Bunarbashi river, seems to
have been that which Strabo (probably following
Demetrius f ) supposed to be the Simoeis, as may
be inferred from his observation that the site of
Troy, vvliich he places at the Pagiis Iliensium (Paled

llus — royV ovOfiOL^OfMavovs roirovs avrxv^oc ocuj^ev,

rov ^E^ivsoy &c. ap. Strab. p. 51)7.

* Strabo, p. 602. A passage in the 12th book of the llias
(v. 20.) has been adduced in favour of the opinion that the
Mendere was the Scamander of Homer j because tlic description
there given of tlie origin of the Scamander in Mount Ida, will
better apply to the Mendere than to the Bunarbashi stream,
which rises on tlie edge of the })laiii. But the same passage
makes the (iranicus and .^Ivsejnis concur with the Scamander
and Simoeis in the destruction of the (irecian rampart, though
they flow in an opposite direction and fall into the Propontis, —
an absurdity wdiich must destroy the geographical authority of
the passage, if indeed it be not spurious.

i' It is not easy to distinguish the opinions anti observations
of Strabo from those which he has copied from Demetrius. In
general, however, it may be supposed that Strabo had seen little
of the Troas himself, and that he therefore followed Demetrius,
as a native and a copious writer on the subject. But there
is reason to think that even Demetrius sruv little of the Troas
after his earlv voulh.

Ch. 6.

289

Aktshi), was near the river Thyinbrius ; and that the
temple of Apollo Thyinbraeus at the junction of this
river with the Scaniander, was 50 stades from New
Ilium ^ ; for these data concur in showing that the
Kamara-suf was the Thyinbrius, and consequently
that the Ghiumbrek-su was the Simoeis of the geo-
grapher,

But although a site had been found for Troy
at Pagus by those who did not subscribe to the
claims of the Ilicnses in favour of their own site,
neither Demetrius nor Strabo was able to disco-
ver any springs corresponding to the Seainandrian
sources of Homer. Demetrius, having ol>served
how utterly irreconeileable the single source of the
Scamandcr in the distant summit of Mount Ida
is with Homer’s description of the Scamandriaii
springs, was under the awkward necessity of imagi-
ning that those fountains, wherever they might be,
were called the springs of Scamandcr, not as being
in reality the sources, but only because they were
near the Scamandcr, or because they aflbrded a
stream which joined that river And as the valley
and river of Ghiumbrek do not unite with the plain
and river of the Mendere till very near the sea, Dc-

* Strabo, p. a 1)8.

t So called from the ruins ol an atnudiH l, u|M)n arclus
which crosses the beil of tlu* river. Tliis acpituhu I
probably conveyed water from Mount Ida to New ilium,
f Dcmct up. Strab p Gtrj.

u

290

Ch. G.

metrius distinguishes the Simoeisian from the Sca-
inandrian plain * — a distinction, it may be observed,
which no where occurs in Homer, and is in fact
inconsistent with his topography.

There seems no other mode of obviating these
difficulties, inevitably attendant upon taking the
Mendere in its whole course for the Homeric Sea-
mander, but to suppose that the river of Bunar-
bashi was the ancient Scamander, that it gave name
to the united stream, and that the part of the Men-
dere above the junction was the Simoeis. The
latter name appears to have become obsolete during
the ages in which the events of the war of Troy
had been almost forgotten on the scene itself, and
in the time of Demetrius and Strabo to have been
known only to antiquaries inquiring into the topo-
graphy of the Ilias. The name of Scamander on the
other hand, being the more illustrious of the two,
and a name apparently of familiar import in Asia
Minor f, was retained in use: but as the river of Bu-
narbashi had lost much of its local importance, and
had now become of inferior consideration, the name

* Demetr. ap. Strab. p. i>97.

t Scamander, Mjcander and Mendore, — which last is now
applied by the Turks to three of the rivers of Asia Minor, —
seem all to belong to the ancient language of the country,
before the introduction of Greek. Scamander may be Sca-
Maeander, Sea being perhaps a distinctive prefix to the Trojan
Mseander. And the SxaTai TTvAcd may have received its name
from the same word.

Ch. 6.

291

of Scamander before attached to the united stream
and to the Bunarbashi-su, was after the revival of
New Iliujn by Lysimachus (and perhaps long before
that time) applied to the united stream and to the
whole course of the Mendere.

In some of the preceding pages we have had
occasion to remark in the instances of the Sanga-
rius, Mseander, and Hermus, how easily the names
of two branches of a river are confounded with
one another or with the united stream, and how
readily they are transferred from the one to the
other. In addition to these examples, it may be ob-
served that a similar transmutation of name in two
branches of the same river, under circumstances
which cannot so easily be accounted for as in the
Trojan rivers, is to be found in Thessaly, where the
river called by Herodotus and Thucydides Api-
danus, is undoubtedly the same as the Enipcus of
later writers, whose Apidanus is at twelve miles
distance, and joins the other branch not fur from the
confluence of the united stream with the Peneus.

The principal causes of the obscurity into which
the Homeric Scamander (or river of liunarbashi)
had fallen at the time of Demetrius, are sufiiciently
manifest. When Troy stood at Bunarbashi, it was
natural that the river which had its sources under
the walls should be one of the dcijicd rivers of the
district. In the climate of Greece a perennial foun-
tain, however small, was held in at least equal ho-
nour with a large torrent affording only water that
u 2

292

Ch. 0.

was either turbid or stagnant : and we find many
proofs in ancient history, and upon ancient monu-
ments, especially coins, of the importance often at-
tached to streams, however diminutive, which flow
near the sites of large cities. It is not surprising,
therefore, that the river, which from the position of
its sources and from its utility was more peculiarly
the river of Troy, should, whileTroy flourished, have
had a preference over the broad torrent in giving
name to the united stream; or that its local impor-
tance should have ceased when the capital of the
district was removed to a situation nearer the sea.

But besides these accidental causes, there were
others arising from physical changes which tended
to destroy the importance of the river of Bunarba-
shi. The Menderc and its tributary streams, which
flow from Aktshi-Kiui, from the Kamara valley,
from Tshiblak and from Ghiumbrek, being all tor-
rents descending from lofty mountains, bring down
with them a great quantity of stones, earth, and
other matter : while the Bunarbashi stream, de-
riving all its water from pure deep-seated veins, has
little or.no deposit. Hence during the ages which
have elapsed since the Trojan war, the eastern side
of the plain has been gradually rising; the course
of the Mendere has been gradually receding from
that side * , and the western side has become more

* A part of the old bcil is slill to bo se»^n in going from
Uunarbusbi to Tshiblak,

Ch. f>.

293

and more marshy ; until at length the Bunarbashi,
instead of uniting with the Mendere about the
middle of the plain, as in the time of the Trojan
war, is now forced to find its way through the
marshes on the western side, and from those marshes
into the Mendere by two exits not far from Kum-
Kale, or towards the ancient Sigeium. Its waters
in the plain have been still further diminished by
a canal, which carries oft' a large portion of them
into another stream, which joins not the Helles-
pont, but the iEgean, at a part of the coast situ-
ated not less than seven miles from the ancient
mouth of the Scamander. Whether this canal
is the remains of an ancient work made for the
purpose of draining the plain, when it became
marshy by the operation of the causes above stated,
or whether it was formed by the Turks merely for
its present use, of turning some mills, may be
doubtful : its effect has been to cut off in summer
all communication between the BunArbashi springs
and the marshy ground on the western side of the
plain ; so that it is only in rainy seasons that the
old bed of the river, which is still very traceable,
is now filled with water. I shall here take occasion
to remark, that the manner in which the alluvion
collects in this plain, as already described, will ac-
count for an apparent difficulty in regard to those
passages of the Bias which shew that the Scaman-
der (the united stream) flovvc'd on the; left of the

294

Ch. 6.

Grecian encampment, or toward Rhoeteium *, in-
stead of towards Sigeium, as might be inferred from
Strabo f and present appearances : for it is evident
from the causes mentioned, that the altered course
of the river would be to the westward of the former
course ; and consequently that when there was a
bay at the mouth of the Scamander, the river pro-
bably issued into that bay, not towards its western,
hut towards its eastern side No appearance of
a bay indeed is now visible ; but its former exist-
ence is undoubted, as well from the testimony of

This has been admitted by nearly all the writers on the
Trojan question, but has been stated witfi particular clearness
by Major Rennell (Observations, Sect. IV.). 1 shall therefore

merely cite the verse of Homer, which furnishes the direct
proof.

"'Ektcup

sTT* dpio'rs^d fj.(ipya,ro itdtrrfS,

’'Ox^oLs Ttdp ifora,pi.o7o 'Exaf^aySpou

11. A. V. 497.

It is almost unnecessary to add, that the poet here, a.s else-
where, speaks of the left of the (ireeks. Hector was opposed
to Ajax, whose station was on the Greek left.

f Strabo, p. 597, 598.

{ In the time of Strabo (or Demetrius) the mouth of the
river was 20 stades distant from New Ilium : it has now moved
still further west, and joins the sea close to Kum-Kalc. The
small harbour under Intepe (or the tomb of Ajax) is the modern
representative of the portus Achajorum, which w’lts the j)ort of
New^ Ilium, and the nearest point of the coast to that city.
Strabo, p. 598. Pliii. Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 30. Pomp. Mel. 1. 1 .
c. 18. Naustathmum w^as near the place where the river joined
the sea in the time of tl\c geographer.

Ch. 6.

295

Homer as from the physical structure of the land.
Instead of two promontories with a beach between
them, as described by the poet, there is now only
one low point of land, which has been formed be-
twen the two ancient capes by the soil brought down
from the upper country by the river, and deposited
at its mouth in the course of ages. The rate at
which the new land has accumulated may be in-
ferred from Strabo and Pliny, from whom it appears
that in their time New Ilium was distant about a
Roman mile and a half from the nearest shore *.
Now it appears from the existing vestiges of New
Ilium, by those of its citadel on the summit of the
hill of Paleo Kastro, which rises behind Kalufatli,
and Kum Kiui, and by other remains on the
western slope of that hill, — that the lower part
of the town reached nearly to the position of
Kum Kiui, which is three miles from the shore,
or more than double the distance assigned by
Strabo. Allowing therefore the same rate of accu-
mulation between the Trojan war and the Augustan
age, as since that period, it becomes probable that
in the former age the sea reached to about half a
mile below the position of Kum Kiui : and conse-
quently that Hestisea of Alexandria was nearly cor-
rect in supposing that all the plain below the hill
of New Ilium had been gained from the sea since

* Strabo says 12 stadia j Pliny, 1500 Ronuin pnet'..

296

Ch. 6.

the time of the Trojan war — the sandy ground at
the extremity of the slope of tliat hill, which gives
name to Kum Kiui (Sand-village), marks perhaps
what was at one period the sea beach. To those
who may think this formation of new land over-
rated t, it is to be observed, that in every instance
in which the history of Greece has left us the
means of comparison, the same phsenomenon has
occurred in the maritime plains ; and that in the
instances of the Spercheius and Mseander, but par-
ticularly of the latter, the soil has been formed in
the same period of time with a much greater ra-
pidity.

From all these considerations, therefore, it seems
highly probable that the mouth of the Scamander
in the time of the Trojan war was not far from

'• IIcstijEU ap. Strab. p. 599.

I' A late writer on tlu* Trojan (piestion (Mr. Maclarcn) par-
licularly insists on this supposed error, and conceives the sandy
point of Kum Kale to be nearly in tlic same state as ii was in
the Trojan war ; founding his o])inion chiefly on the rapidity
of the current of the Hellespont, which must, he thinks, have
carried away the soil almost as quickly as it was brought down.
Hut the cape of new formation which lies between Kum Kale and
liitepc is surely a proof that the current has had no such efl’ect ;
and in fact every one who has navigated the Hellespont knows
that there is a strong counter current along the two shores,
the elfcct of which hits probably contributed to form that cape.
Strabo (p. 599.) has collected the passages of Homer which
support his 0 |)inion that Troy stood far from the sea; and these
alone seem fatal to the new hypothesis brought forward by the
;nill1<ir just idhided to — that of its ])osition at Ni w Ilium.

Ch. 6.

297

the situation now occupied by the village of Kuni
Kiui, and that the river of Bunurbashi or Sca-
mander, instead of then creeping along the foot
of the southern and western heights, crossed the
plain from near Erkessi in the direction of Kum
Kiui, and that it joined the Mendere or Siinoels
towards the middle of the plain, perhaps not far
from the present village of Kalafatli. The passages
of the Ilias in which the Togog, or ford of the Sca^
inander is mentioned, tend to show that such must
have been the course of the river, if Troy stood at
Dunarbashi; and we have seen that the nature of
the plain, and the manner in which the alluvion has
been accumulated, render such a state of the river
in ancient times highly probable.

A third objection to Bunurbashi as tlie site of
Troy is, that its distance from the Grecian station
at the mouth of the Scamandcr is so great as to
render impossible some of the events of the Bias.
In considering this distance, however, we must first
deduct from the actual distance of Ijiniurbashi
from the nearest shore, tlie new land lormed
since the Trojan war, together witli the dt/jl/i of
the Grecian encampment, which in /aigi/t extend-
ed from the foot of the hill of Achilleium on
the right, to the mouth of the Scamandcr on the
left. The new land we have already seen to have
been nearly all that which now lies below Kum
Kiui. 1'h(' following an tin only eirnirnstanees

298 Ch. 6.

upon which we may build a judgement as to the
extent of the Grecian encampment.

According to the poet, the bay was too narrow
to contain the whole fleet, which was therefore ar-
ranged in several lines*. Although nothing but
necessity could have made the Greeks submit to
having any of their vessels at a distance from the
sea, and that we may therefore suppose the number
of lines to have been as few as possible, the poet’s
expression will hardly allow the supposition that
there were fewer than four or five lines. And this
number agrees very well with the dimensions of the
ground : for if we allow 25 feet for the breadth of
each ship, added to the interval between it and the
next, we shall find that about one-fifth of 1200,
which is the amount of Homer s enumeration
would have been sufficient to occupy the space of
one mile and a quarter, to which the rear of the
Greek encampment was confined by the hill of
Achilleium on the right, and by the river on the left,
supposing its mouth to have been near Kum Kiui:};.

Ou^fc yap ou5*, svpvs icep twv, iSvyr}(roLro leda-as
AiyiaXoj vr^as %aJeeiy* (rrsivovro Xao/'

TtJ pa 'TTpOKpoa-tras t^vfray, xa) TfXrjcrav difct<rvjg
*W6yos crroiioc [Jioixpoy, o(rov trvvsspysLOoy dxpcti. II. E. v.33.
t Tliucydidcs (1. 1. c. 10.) verifies our copies of the catalogue
by remarking that the total number of ships was 1200.

J In one passage (O. 070) the poet seems to represent
Ajax as striding from sliip to ship : but if some of the vessels
were so closely arranged iis to have admitted of such an action,

Ch.6.

299

For the breadth or depth of the encampment it
would not be necessary to assign more than three
or four hundred yards, if it were measured only by
the length of the ships, added to the necessary
interval between the rows: but it is obvious that
a large space must, either in the length or depth
of the encampment, have been required for the
tents of the leaders, for the chariots and horses,
for the market, and for the places to contain the
cattle and other commodities which the Greeks
collected for provisions, or to be exchanged for
wine *. In short, for a permanent encampment of
between 50,000 and 100,000 men t> with a front
of a mile and a quarter, a depth of not less than
half a mile would be necessary. Such a space
would not be greater than was reejuired by the Ro-
mans for their encampments in which, although
there was ample accommodation for the several de-
partments of the army, there was no necessity for
the space required in the camp before Troy, for the
ships, and for some of the other incumbrances in-

a greater width must have been necessary between the divisions
than if each vessel was isolated : so that in eitluT ease the en-
tire space required will be nearly the same.

* II. H. V. 4(i7.

f About one hundred thousand is the result of the calcula-
tion of Thucydides 5 and the extent of country from whieli the
army was collected will hardly allow of a smaller number. W e
may admit, however, with the historian^ that a large part of
them was always absent collecting plunder and provisions.

{ Polyb. 1. 6. c. 27 , ki\ See Lipsius dc Mil. Korn. 1. a.

300

Ch. 6.

ciclental to its permanence. On the one hand we
can hardly restrict the Greek camp to a smaller
space than I have mentioned, because it would have
been insufficient to contain the ships and tents:
on the other, a much larger can hardly be assigned;
because the inconvenience of having any of the
ships at a distance from the sea-shore would be a
powerful motive for contracting the space towards
the plain, and because the poet expressly states that
the army was crowded

In considering, therefore, the transactions of the
Ilias, the present distance of Bunarbashi from the
mouth of the Scamander must be diminished about
three miles and a half, in order to give the distance
between Troy and the Grecian rampart, which will
thus be reduced to about six miles.

The events which have been considered most in-
consistent with the distance of Bunarbashi from the
Hellespont, are those occurring on the days called
by Pope the 23d and 28th; the former day occu-
pies the 2d, 3d, 4th, t5th, 6th, and the greater part
of the 7th books of the poem; the 28th day extends
from the beginning of the 11th to the middle of
the 18th book.

On the 23d day the Greeks are drawn out, after

* arsivovTO Ss Xaoi. Tliese words, however, seem more to
relate to the anusual a\ul somewhat dangerous expedient of
doubling the liinks of slups, in i-onsetiuern'e of the narrowness
of tiM* heaelK than to th<' i.Toivded st;ife of the arinv in general.

ch. r».

301

their forenoon’s repast, in the plain lying between
the rampart and the Scamander ; and from thence
they advance to the city, where, after the duel be-
tween Menelaus and Paris, the armies join battle
wdth alternate success. At one time the Trojans
have* so far prevailed as to have approached the
Greek camp*; and at another, the Greeks are
again near the city t. Hector then rallies his army;
a duel ensues between him and Ajax, which is put
an end to by the approach of night J, and the
Greeks retire to their encampment. It does not
seem necessary to suppose that the ground passed
over by the Greeks on this day is more than 20
or 22 miles; six of which were performed after the
close of day.

On the 28th day the two armies drawn out in
the plain before the Greek encampment, fouglit
only with the light troops until the hour of tlic
woodman’s meal wliicb, to judge by modern
customs, was about 9 or 10 o’clock in the fore-
noon. The charioteers of the two armies having
then come to action, the Greeks had the superio-
rity, and beat back the Trojans quite to the walls
of Troy II , where Agamemnon being wounded.
Hector in turn leads the victorious Trojans to the
Grecian ram])art, forces it, and fights at the shij)s.
Patroclus then advances to battle in the armour of

* 11. E. V. 791 . \ Z. V. ‘250, 1 U v. 282

§ A. V. 8(). !j A. V. 170

302

Ch. 6.

Achilles, and drives the Trojans back to the city.
Here he is slain, and the Trojans again advance
near to the Greek camp before the day closes
As the movements on this day carry the parties
quite up to the hostile fortifications, the distance
passed over is in so much, but no more, gffeater
than on the 23d day; and 24 miles seems to be
the utmost distance that we are obliged to suppose
the Greeks to have passed over on this day.

In considering the probability of these exploits,
we must take into consideration that whatever may
have been the proportion of the infantry to the
chariots, the extreme distances appear to have been
performed only by the latter ; for Homer, in all
the great movements from the Greek camp to
Troy, and from Troy to the Greek camp, as well
as in all the principal actions, notices the chariots
only. Even in the assault of the wall, in the be-
ginning of the Pith book. Hector descends from
his chariot; and all the other Trojans, adds the
poet, follow his example.

Not much argument, however, seems necessary
against objections which, when allowed in their full-
est force, are founded only on the exaggerations of a
poet, to whom, hovvever accurate as a geographer
and historian when it was his object to be so, we
cannot refuse the usual poetical liberties in some of
the most animated descriptions which his work
* s. V. 239.

Ch. 6.

303

contains. If tlie labours of the Trojan and Grecian
heroes in the two days the events of which are
thought to disprove the position of Troy at Bun^r-
bashi, were too great for ordinary men; they were
not beyond the power of heroes who could hurl
such rocks as two men in the time of the poet
were unable even to lift*; who could make their
voices heard from the centre to either extremity f,
or even from the one end to the other:}: of an en-
campment of sixty or eighty thousand men ; and
who could see so clearly, that Helen is able from
the walls of Troy to point out and minutely describe
all the leaders of the Grecian host, when the whole
Trojan army lay between It is evident that these
are fictions which the Muse allows and encourages ;
and instances of them are so frequent throughout
the poem, that it cannot be necessary to make any
more particular reference to them. At one time
the poet found it convenient to magnify beyond pro-
bability, or even beyond j»ossibility, the common oc-
currences of war; at another, to bring together the
actions of an extensive field, in order to present
them to view in one continued scene.

A fourth objection which has been made against
the site of Bunarbashi is, that in this position it
would have been im])ossible for Achilles to have pur-
sued Hector three .times round the walls of Troy,

* II. E. V. 303, T. V. '380.
t n. V. / /.

t 0. V. 222.
§ r. V. 178.

304

Ch. G.

as Homer relates. But does Homer really so relate ?
It cannot be denied that many interpreters, ancient
and modern, have understood the poet in this sense;
and it is perhaps the most obvious meaning to a cur-
sory reader, who does not particularly consider the
fact described, or who has not, by a view of the site
of Troy, been convinced of its extreme improbabi-
lity. Virgil, however, who in the latter part of the
12th book of the iEnels, has very closely imitated
every part of Homer’s description of the encounter
between Achilles and Hector, seems to have under-
stood his prototype very differently. He does not
represent Turniis as pursued by his adversary rmirid
the walls of Laurentuni, but as forming a circle in
a plain which was bounded by those walls, by a
marsh, and by the Trojan army. In like manner
the pursuit of Hector by Achilles occurred in sight
of the Trojans, collected on the ramparts* on one
side, and of the Grecian army drawn out in the
plain on the other. And the poet, in describing
the action, mentions no objects passed by Hector
and Achilles, except the Scsean or l!)ardanian gate,
the carriage-way under the walls, the Erineus, and
the source of the Scamander * ; all places which we
know to have been on the side of the city towards
the plain. Can it be supposed that Homer intended
to describe the heroes as following such a track as
must have concealed them entirely from the view of
both armies, except in a small portion of the circle?

11. X. V. i;n

Ch. 6.

303

It has justly been observed by Lechevalier and
Choiseul Gouffier that the word crgg*/, which has
given rise to the erroneous interpretation of this
passage, means, in other passages^ perfectly si-
milar, near or before the city, and not around it.
To this I may add, that no supposed situation
of the city, which is not entirely in the plain,
will suit the idea of a course round the entire
circuit of the walls; and that such a situation
would be totally unadapted to the description
which Homer has given of Troy, as windy f , lof-
ty and as surmounted with a citadel bordered
by precipices Strabo in fact, following Deme-
trius, makes use of this very argument to prove
that the ancient city did not stand at New Ilium ;
round which, he remarks, it would have been im-
possible for Achilles to have pursued Hector ||. It
would seem, therefore, that the poet, as a keen ob-
server of nature, intended to describe that circular
course, which a person invariably takes when he
runs from another, and finds no shelter or advan-
tageous position for defending himself. The track
of the two heroes was from the Sca?an gate, along
the road under the walls, by the Erineus, and by
the fountains of the Scamander back again to the

* 11. B. 508. Z, 327. n. 418. 2. 279.

t Il.r.395. 0.499. M.1I5. N.724. 2.174. 4^. 64/297.

t 11. N. 625.

§ 11. A. 508. Z. 512. E. 460. X. 411. O., 700.

I) Strabo, p. 599.

X

306 Ch. 6.

Scasan gate. *0^ oi rgfe mKtv hv^-

Onrivf^*

It remains to offer a few remarks in justification
of the north-eastern portion of the map which ac-
companies the present volume. This part of Asia
Minor was called Pontus by the Romans, from its
bordering on the Euxine sea: though it still retained
the divisions of its ancient inhabitants, the Bithyni,
Maryandini, Caucones, and Paphlagones. Here, as
in many other parts of the peninsula, modern travel-
lers have not yet afforded us sufficient information
to enable us to make the best use of the evidence
of ancient history. The astronomical observations
of M. Beauchamp and Capt. Gauttier have been of
great importance in giving the correct length of the
coast, its general outline, and the exact position of
the principal places: but it requires such a careful
survey as that of the southern coast by Capt. Beau-
fort, to illustrate fully the three ancient Periplus of
the Pontic coast f , and to correct the numerical

^ X. 1165.

t These Periplus are* 1. By Arrian, governor of Cappadocia
under Hadrian. 2. By Marcian of Heraclia Pontica, who is
supposed to have lived ^bout a century later than Arrian. And,
3. By an anonymous author, who has collected his information
from the two former, and from some other sources. He is of
a much later date than the two others, as appears from th *
names of his own time, which he has annexed to some of the
ancient names, and by the miles which he has subjoined to the
studies.

Ch. 6. 307

errors which their disagreement witii one another
proves to exist in them.

On the sea-coast all the most important sites of
antiquity are determined by the actual names. —
These sites are Rhebas^ now Riva; Calpe^ Kerpe;
the river San^garius, Sakaria; Ileraclia^ Eregri;
the river Parthenius^ Bartan^ in Greek Parth^ni;
AviCLstAs^ Amasera; Cy torus ^ Kidros; Thymena^
Temena; Kerempe ; Abonuteichus^

terward Aindboli; C?mo/|cV, Kinoli; Ste-
pkane, Istefan, in Greek Stefanos; Sinope, Sinub,
ill Greek Sinopi; Camisa, Kerze; AmLsus, Sam-
sun. With these data it will not be dhhcult for
the future traveller to fix the intermediate names
of the three Periplus: especially as existing vestiges
of antiquity, and the rivers which form a large
proportion of the ancient names, will greatly facili-
tate the task.

Although the route along this coast, in the
Peutinger Table, is unworthy of much notice, and
conveys very little information, it is right to point
out the obvious correction of one remarkable error
which it contains. The author, misled by the
similarity of the name of Amastris (written Ma-
strum in the Table) witli that of Amasia, has sub-
stituted the coast-road from Amastris to Sinope
for that leading from Amasia to Sinope. Of this
the names along the latter route in the Table, al-
though disfigured, leave no doubt. — Ciomen, Cy-

X 2

308

Ch. 6.

tliero, Egilan, Carambas, Stefano, Syrtas, are ob-
viously intended for Cronma, Cytorum, iEgiali^
Carambis, Stephaiie, Syrias ; and the sum of the
distances, 149 M. P., is tolerably correct. It
is probable, therefore, that the two roads should
change places in the Table ; although it must be
confessed that no proof of this inference is to be
found in the road of the Table from Mastrum to
Sinope; for the sum of the distances of the three
places on that route is not above half the real road-
distance, and I can find no traces of their names
(Tyca% Cereje, and Miletus) in any other ancient
author.

Another and a more important defect in the routes
of the Table through Paphlagonia, is the omission
of the name of the place which by its two towci'svsi
shown to have been the most remarkable on the road
leading from Nicomedia to Gangra, with a branch
to Amasia. As this route of the Table lies between
the coast road and that leading from Nicaea to
Amasia by Juliopolis, Ancyra, and Tavium, it
seems evidently to have been the same as the mo-
dern road from Nicomedia to Amasia by Boli; for
the structure of the country, and the direction of
its mountains, passes, valleys, and rivers, must na-
turally have led the main ancient road in the same
direction as the modern. The position in the Table
of the place with two towers without a name, rela-
tively to the two ends of the route, shows that it

Ch. 6.

309

stood on or about the site now occupied by Boli.
Now Boli is evidently an abbreviation of some name
ending in Polis, which in process of time was vul-
garly used in that form, like ^ voKis for Constan-
tinople. In Honorias, which under Constantine
formed a district separate from Paphlagonia proper,
lying between it and Bithynia, there were three
places with the termination of polis — Claudiopolis,
or Bithynium ; Flaviopolis, or Cratia ; and Hadri-
anopolis*. The other towns of Honorias wereTiiim,
Heraclia Pontica, and Prusias on the Hypius ; so
that the district seems to have chiefly comprehend-
ed the country lying between the Sangarius and
the Billaeus. Bithynium or Claudiopolis was on the
Sangarius 'j' ; and having been originally a colony
from Greece;};, was probably not far from the
mouth of that river, Greek colonies having gene-
rally settled in maritime situations, as we see in-
stanced in several cities on this coast. Flaviopolis
was twenty or thirty miles from Claudiopolis, on the
road leading from that place to Ancyra^ ; conse-
quently to the westward of Boli. Boli, therefore,
seems to have been the ancient Hadrianopolis. It
is singular that among the numerous inscriptions

Ptolem. I. .O. c. 1 . Hierofl. Syntcil. ft. C'J4. Notit. Episc
Grace.

t Pausan. Arcad. c. 9. Stephan, in BtSuris)'.

t From Mantineia in Arcadia. Pausan. ibid.

t Itin. Anton, p. 200.

310

Cb. 6.

which so many travellers agree in having observed
near BoH, not one should yet have been copied,
containing the name of the ancient city.

The other places on this road in the Table have
been inserted in the Map, in the situations which
I have thought the most probable, trusting less to
the distances in the Table, (which are probably not
more correct in detail than they are in the general
result,) than to the situation of the valleys and fer-
tile districts. Potamia, a place which Strabo has
noticed as being in this part of the country*, seems
to have stood in the valley of Beinder, where the
branches of the Parthenius first unite into a consi-
derable stream.

On another route in the Table, which cro.sses
the preceding nearly at right angles, the only place
named between Gangra and Sinope is Pompeiopo-
lis. This place seems to have occupied the site of
Tash Kiupri, as well from the position of that mo-
dern town, as from the considerable remains of an-
tiquity found there, and which are apparently of the
date when Pompeiopolis may be supposed to have
flourished.

Of Gernuinicopolis, or Germanopolis, we know
only that it was one of the principal places of the
interior of Paphlagonia, and that it continued to
he so in the sixth century f . It has probably left

* Strabo, p. afi?.

I I’tolom. I. c. I. .Iiislinian. Novd. 29. c.l.

Cli. Cu

311

Home remains similar to those of Ponipeiopoljs,
though they have not yet been discovered by mo-
dern travellers. D’Anville supposed Gerinanico-
polis to have occupied the site of Kastamdnij but
the words in the Novelise of Justinian seem to
place it near Gangra *. — Kastamuni is the mor
dern corruption of Castamon, which we find men-
ioned in the Byzantine history f, and which may
have been a more ancient name, although it is not
found in Ptolemy, nor in any authority earlier
than the 12th century.

The subordinate districts of Paphlagonia and
Cappadocia Pontica; namely, Timonitis, Bogdo-
manis, Zygiani, Marmolitis, Blaene, Domanitis,
Cimiatene, Gazelonitis, Sarainene, Phamezonitis,
Diacopene,Babamonitis, — have been inserted in the
map, from the information, as well as it could be
understood, of Strabo and Ptolemy ; and some of
the Turkish names from the still obscurer descrip-
tion of Abubekr Ben Behrem.

It is much to be regretted that no modern tra-
veller has visited Tshoriim, which there is the
strongest reason to believe occupies the site of Ta-
vium, the chief fortress of the Trocmi, and a very
important point in the ancient itineraries.

Upon comparing the road from Tavium to Ca:-

* See the Note on ^opa, in Hicroc. Synec. p. 695. cd. Wess.

f Anna Comn. 1. 7. p. 206. Nicct. in Joan. Comn, Chalco-
rond. 1. 9. p. 259.

312

Ch. 6.

sareia (Mazaca) in the Table with that in the An-
tonine itinerary, we find that none of the names
agree — that the distance in the Table is nearly dou-
ble that in the Antonine — and that both of them
give an incorrect rate to the Roman mile. It might
be supposed, in explanation of this difficulty, that
there were two roads from Tavium to Caesareia ;
but I am inclined to think there is some error here
in the Antonine, as it places Soanda on this road,
which we have good authority for believing to have
been in a very different situation, namely, on the
great western road from Caesareia, betw’een that
city and Garsabora

♦ Artemid. ap, Strab. p. 663.

ADDITIONAL NOTES.

1 HAVE reserved to this place all observations on the geogra -
phical information contained in the Latin historians of the 12th
century, who have described the first crusade * j because, upon
a careful examination of it, 1 have not found any thing either to
invalidate or materially to confirm tVut which is deduciblc from
the ancients or from the Byzantines. At the same time there
are several passages in the Latin historians which may receive
some illustration from the cotemporary (ireeks, or from the
ancient geographical authorities.

NOTE TO PAGE 9.

The following is the substance of a short account, by Anna
Comnena, of the military opt rations in Bithynia in the autumn
of the year lOJIC, which |)roved fatal to so many of the followers
of Peter the Hermit. Peter having passed over into Asia, con-
trary to the advice which the Emperor Alexius gave him to wait
for the other crusaders w)io were then on the way, cncamj)cd at
Helenopolis, from whence the Normans proceeded to ravage tlu‘
country around Niciea ; and having successfully defended them-
selves against a body of 'Turks, which ad vanced against them , they
carried back tlieir spoil in safety to I lelenopolis. In a second ex-
pedition they occupied the fort ofXeiigorduSi but the sultan Ki-
lidj Arslan, having sent one of his officers against them, retook
that place, slew many of the Normans, and made many of them
prisoners. He then sent two men to raise a report in the
camp at Helenopolis, that the Normans had taken possession
of NiCfCa, and were plunflering it j when the other troops, dr-

• fi'ofa Pri per Kraut os.

314

sirous of sharing in the spoils proceeded in a disorderly manner
towards Nicse : and thus they fell into an ambuscade which the
Sultan had stationed in a place called Draco^ and were cut to
pieces. The number that fell was so great that their bones
formed a mountain. Peter then retiied to Helenopolls^ wliere
he was invested by the Turks : but the Emperor^ unwilling that
he should be taken, sent his officer Catacalon with some ships
to his succour, upon whose arrival the Turks retired, and Peter
returned with his surviving followers into Europe.

From the Latins there is great difficulty in extracting any
clear account of these events, which may partly be ascribed
to the want of a good map, partly to the ignorance of the
authors in ancient geography, but chiefly to the circum-
stance of none of those wr>ers having been persons^lly engaged
in Peter’s imprudent expedition. They agree tolerably well
with the Greek Princess in regard to the principal events, but
are at variance both with her and with one another as to many
of the ])articulars. lliey relate that the crusaders, having
crossed the Jlosphorus, marched to Nicomedia, and from thence
to a place on the sea-side called Civitot or Civito, where they
were amply supplied with provisions by sea. The F'rench
troops, separjiting from the others, spread themselves over the
country and took possession of an abandoned fortress called
Exerogorgo (the Xerigordus of Anna Comnena), the situation
of which is variously described as four days beyond Nicomedia,
JUS four days beyond Nicaea, and as three or four miles from the
latter. Here they were soon surrounded by the Turks, who cut
oft’ their supply of water, slew many of them, and at length, by
the treachery of one of the French chieftains named Reynald,
captured many more. Soon after this event there was a general
action in the field, which was fatal to the gallant military com-
mander of Peter’s army, Gauthier Sansavoir, (Walter the mo-
neyless,) as well as to several other distinguished leaders. The
cxjxct scene of action it is very difficult to understand, though it
rather appears from a comparison of Anna Comnena with Albert
of Aix-la-Chapclle, and William of Tyre, the two Latin authors
v/ho have given the fullest account of these transactions, to have
been :il the northern extremity of the plain of Nicaca, and on the

315

adjoining hills. The chief slaughter of the Franks seems to have
occurred in the passes leading from thence to the sea, of which
passes the Turks had made themselves masters during the action ,
unknown to the enemy. According to the Latin historians^ a
part of their army found its way bark to Civitot, where they were
speedily surrounded by the Turks, and where they would have
been in great danger of being all slain or taken, had not the
Turks been induced, by the mediation of Alexis, to retire, and
to leave the crusaders at liberty to return to Constantinople.

It naturally occurs, on reading these two accounts of the
same events, that Helenopolis, which name is not found in the
Gesta Dei per Francos, was the same j)lace whicli the authors
of that collection mean by Civitot ; but a little further examina-
tion will show this supposition to be inadmissible. In the tirsi
place, the passage of Procopius referred to in page 8 of this vo-
lume * is a convincing proof that Helenopolis was on the shore
of the Gulf of Nicomedia. Procopius, in complaining of the in-
jury which Justinian had done to the imperial establislinient for
the relay of horses on all the great post roads of the empire 1 , re-
marks in particular, tliat tlie abolition of the post from Chulcedon
to Dacibyza had obliged all persons who were going from (/on-
stsintinople to Helenopolis to cross the sea in small boats, which
often exposed them to great danger. It is evident, as well from
this passage of Procopius as from several others in Anna Com-
nena, that Helenopolis was the usual place ol debarkation for those
going from the capital to Nircca and the south eastward, as the l)il
or Glossa is at present ; and hence Constantine turned his atten-
tion to this important point soon after he had established the
seat of empire at Byzantium, giving to the village of Drepa-
niim J, which before stood there, the name of Helenopolis in
^lonour of his mother. From the same sense of its importance,

* Procop. Hist. Seer. c. (iO,

f In each interval tliat might he t .versed hy n fwt passenger in a day,
there were several inns, and at each iiii ‘lO horses and as many grtHnns,—
so that a courier could perform in ine day a disUiiuv ecpial tt» fen pede-
strian journeys. Justinian sulistitut d asses for horses, and lell only one
inn, where Iwfore there liad Itecn frt n five (u eight.

I Nicephor. Callist. 1. 7. r. IS*.

316

Justinian augmented Heienopolis^ and constructed there an
aqueduct, a bath, and other buildings 7. .

Secondly, it cannot be doubted that the barbarous name Civitot
or Civito^ which, like many other parts of the narrative, the authors
of the Gesta Dei have copied from one another, is no other than
the (pronounced Kivotdin modem Greek) of Anna Com-

nena. In the following year we find that it was the place of de-
barkation and maritime supply for the crusaders, especially during
their operations before Nicaea 5 and it clearly appears, upon a
comparison of the Latin historians with Anna, to have been in the
Gulf of Cius, and not far from that city : for the former state that,
in order to complete the blockade of Nicaea, and to prevent the
Turks in the city from receiving succours by the lake, boats were
collected at (Vivitot and conveyed from thence overland into the
lake ; while from the Greek princess we learn t that this opera-
tion, which according to her was performed by placing the boats
in chariots, took place on the side of the lake towards Cius.
Here, in fact, the ground w^'is more favourable to it than in any
part of the borders of the lake, and here also the lake approaches
nearest to the sea, the interval being, as Albert of Aix remarks,
about seven miles.

As to the statement of Anna, that Alexius sent ships to the
assistance of Peter, when invested by the Turks at Helenopolis,
<*ompared w ith that of the Lsitin historians, wdio represent Ci-
vitot to have been the hist retreat of the crusaders, the only mode
of reconciling this a})pareiit contradiction is 10 suppose that the
defeated and dispersed crusaders retreated through the woods
to both those places, that both were invested by the victorious
Turks, hut that it w'as to Helenopolis that Alexius sent his
admiral, whose interference w ith the Turks liberated the Franks
at l^ibotus, as w’cll as those who w'erc shut up in Helenopolis.

NOTE VO PAGE 18 .

The Latin historians are at variance w itii one another, and
with Anna Comnena, in many of the circumstances attending
the march of the crusaders, after the capture of Nicaea, to the

^ Prorop. rt«- T'Hif. 1. c. t p. f it?.

317

plain of Dorylaeutn^ and relating to the great battle which took
place there. Thus much however may be gathered from them :
that the crusaders moved in a single line in two days from Nicsea
to Leucse ; that at Leucse they crossed the Gallus by a bridge,
and halted for two days to refresh themselves and their cattle in
that fertile valley. They then divided themselves into two
bodies ; that which was accompanied by Godfrey took the road
to the right, (the road probably which now leads through Bo-
zavik,) while Bohemond and the remainder of the forces pur-
sued the direct route to Dorylmum. On the fourth day, the
latter corps being then, as it appears, encamped on the banks
of the Thymbres .in the plain of Dorylaeum not far to the w-est-
ward of that town, was attacked by an immense army of Turks
under Kilidj Arslan. They supported the unequal contest from
the 2d to the 8th hour of the day, when Godfrey, who had re-
ceived from the messengers of Bohemond intelligence of what
was occurring, arrived, and, making an immediate attack on the
flank and rear of the Sultan’s army, gained a complete victory
over them.

NOTE TO PAGES .37, .OS.

The crusaders now marched in a single body and sufTcred
extreme distress from a want of water in the <iry and barren
country which tlicy had to traverse, until they arrived at a river
w'hich appears to have been at no great distance from Antioch
the Less, or Antiocheia of Pisidia. At this city several chief-
tains with their followers separated themselves from the main
body and pursued dill’erent routes j tlie remainder moved for-
ward to Iconium. It must be admitted, that if the evidence as
to the position of Antiocheia of Pisidia contained in this part of
the Ciesta Dei is not sufficient to overthrow that of Strabo and
the Peutinger Tabic, — both which authorities tend to show that
it was not exactly on the modern route from Eski Shchr to
Konia by Bulvvudun and Ak Shehr, — it is at least a proof tluit
Antiocheia lay not fiir from that line. The river which relieved
the sufferings of the crusaders seems to have been that which
flt)ws through the plain of Karahissar to tl»e lake of Bulwuduii.

318

NOTE TO PAGE 65.

The princess Anna is silent as to all the proceedings of the
crusaders between the battle of Dorylaeum and their arrival be-
fore Antioch of Syria. But the Latins agree in stating that,
after marching from Iconium, they arrived at a place which is
variously spelt Erachia, Eraclia, Heraclea, Reclei 5 and that here
they turned to the right through the mountains to Tarsus.
Some of them add, that on the first day from Iconium they were
obliged to take a provision of water in skins, because none was
met with at the end of that day’s journey 5 that on the second
day they arrived at a river, and on the third at Heraclea. This
account of the country through which the crusaders marched
after quitting Iconium, is in every respect so accurate a descrip-
tion of the route from Konia to Tarsus through Erkle, that no
doubt can remain of Erkle having been the place at which they
arrived at the end of the third day’s march from Iconium, —
and hence the authority of their historians may perhaps have been
considered a proof that Erkle is the position of one of the many
(ireek cities called Hcracleia. I have already remarked, however,
that there does not appear at any {X^riod of ancient history to
have been a Heratdeiain this quarter of Asia Minor j and 1 have
stated my reasons for thinking that Erkle is a corruption not
of but of ” A It must be recollected that the

Mussulmans had been in j)osscssion of that part of the country
400 years before the arrival of the crusaders, and that sufficient
time therefore had elapsed for the Greek name to have assumed
the form of corruption which it now bears : Albert of Aix, who
writes it Reclei, which nearly represents the present sound, fur-
nishes us wdth a strong presumption that it really had then as-
sumed that form.

It is natural that the historians of the ciusade, having a suf-
ficient degree of learning to write in Latin, but no profound
knowledge of ancient geography, should have had just so much
familiarity with the name of Heraclea as would lead them to sup-
pose Erkle to be a corruption of Heraclea, and would induce
them to translate it in Latin by that word. It has been seen,
however, that they did not all so convert it. Tudebode, Arch-

319

bishop Baldric, and the Abbot Guibert, all write it Erachia.
Upon the whole, therefore, I find nothing in the Gesta Dei
which invalidates the conjecture of Erkle being the site of
Archalla.

NOTE TO PAGE CO.

In addition to the other proofs which 1 have given in the
note to this page of the little dependence that can be \)luced on
Xenophon's description of the route of Cyrus through Asia
Minor, the following may also be mentioned : Xenophon states
that there were three stations or thirty parasangs between Co-
losste and Celcense : the distance by the road is not mr»re than
30 miles.

NOTE TO PAGE 117.

The following is the description of Cilicia by Ammianus :
“ Superatis Tauri niontis verticibus, qui ad solis ortum subli-
mius attolluntur, Cilicia spatiis porrigitur late distentis, dives
bonis omnibus terra cjusque lateri dextro adnexa Isauria ; pari
sorte uberi palmite viret, et frugibiis multis; quam mediam
navigabile fliimen Calycadnus interscindit. Et hanc quidem,
praeter oppida multa, duae civitates exornant j Scleucia ojiiis
Seleuci regis, et Claiuliopolis quam deduxit colon iarn ('laudius
Caesar. Isaura .... aegro vestigia clarituilinis pristinie monstrat
admodum pauca.’* Ammian. 1. 14. c. 25. The situation of
Mout between the two great parallel ridges of Taurus corre-
sponds exactly with that of Claudiopolis as described by Theo-
phanes : YiXavhoT^oXBUJS . . . rr-g fjLera^u ruv dvo Tavpeuv h

In the 3rd year of the Emperor Anastasias, Claudio-
polis, which had been recently recovered by Diogenes from the
Isaurians, was again suddenly invested by them and reduced to
the greatest extremity, when it was opportunely relieved by
John Cyrtus and Conon bishop of Apamcia, who suddenly
crossing the passes of Taurus (those between Mout and La-
randa), were assisted by a sortie of Diogenes, and thus com-
])letely defeated the Isaurians. The bishop died of a wound
W’hich he received in the action. Thcnpli. Chronog. p 1 IM.

320

Strabo (p. 672) describes a very ancient Greek colony of
the name of Olbe, founded by Ajax, son of Teucer, and which
had a temple of Jupiter that preserved its sanctity and import-
ance through many revolutions. He places Olbe in the moun-
tains behind Soli and Cyinda, which, although not a very accu-
rate description of the situation of the valley of Mout, seems
sufficient to identify the Olbe of Strabo with the Olbasa
which Ptolemy places in the Citis or valley of the Calycadnus.
Nothing indeed is more probable than that this spacious, fertile,
and easily defensible valley should have attracted a colony of
Greeks at an early period. Hicrocles mentions both Olbe
and Claudiopolis in the province of Isauria, of which in his
time Seleucia was the chief town. It appears also from the
Notitiie, that they were separate Greek bishoprics.

NOTE TO PAGE 182.

The theatre of Telmissus is smaller than that of Patara. Ac-
cording to Foucherot, (see Choiseul Voyage Pittorcsciue de la
Gr^ce, tome I. pi. 72) the diameter of the theatre of Telmissus
was 238 French feet, equal to 2.04 English. That of Patara is
265 (not 295 as stated in page 182). At Telmissus the cavea
contained 28 seats divided by a diazoma at the fifteenth seat
from the bottom. Tlic theatre of Patara had about 30 rows of
seats. At Patara arc the ruins of a bath, an inscription upon
which shows that it was erected by the Emperor Vespasian,
'file theatre was built in the reign of Antoninus Pius.

NOTE TO PAGE 183.

Hy the kindness of Mr. Cockerell. 1 am enabled to submit
to the reader a plan on a small scale of the theatre of Patara,
together with a sketch of the form and dimensions of the
theatre of Myra. Their construction resembles that of the
other theatres of Asia Minor, as exemplified at Side *, Tel-
missus, Miletus, Hieraj)()lis, Laodiceia, and in several other
.smaller theatres. 1 1 differs from that of the theatres of European

• For the details of the tlientrc of Side, from the drawings of Mr.
Cockerell, sec the Karamanin of Captain Beaufort— >l*he theatre of Side
is of the largest size, and is in better preservati<}n than any in Asia Minor.

322

Greece in the form of the extremities of the cavea, as fur as we
can judge from such of the European Greek theatres as are suffi-
ciently preserved to show the construction of that part of the
building. In the Asiatic theatres the ends of the cavea diverged
from the orchestra^ so as to form an oblique angle to tiie direction
of the scene. We find, on the contrary, that in the theatres of
Segeste, Tauromenium, Syracuse, Sparta, Epidaurus, Sicyon,
in the theatre of Herodes at Athens, and in that near loannina
in Epirus, the extremities of the cavea vere parallel to the
scene. In both, the cavea exceeded a semicircle j but in the
Asiatic theatres the excess was formed by producing the same
curve at either extremity of the semicircle, until the cavea oc-
cupied from 200 to 22.0 degrees of a circle ♦ 3 whereas at Tau-
romenium, Sicyon, Epidaurus, and in the theatre near loan-
nina, the excess above a semicircle is formed by two right lines
drawn from the extremities of the semicircle perpendicular
to its diameter and to the direction of the scene, as in the an-

At Syracuse, the cavea wjis a Bemicirclc and no more. In
the theatre of Herodes at Athens, the excess above a semicircle
was a curve, and it is therefore an exception to the Euroj)ean
rule. The other theatres of European Greece are too much
ruined to admit of any certainty on this point.

Vitruvius has not noticed this remarkable diflerence between
the Greek theatres of Europe and Asia 3 but he gives the follow-
ing precise distinction between the Greek and the Koman

* The reader will perceive from the plan of the theatre of 3Iyra, that
when the so^^inont w'as very great, the ends of tlie cavea were directed not
upon the centre of the orchestra, but iij>on a point nearer to tlie •‘Cene.

f The form of the Asiatic Greek theatre is exemplified in the annexed
plans of Patara and Myra, and in tliat of llierapolis, given in a succeed-
ing note.

3 - 2 :^,

theatre : To construct the Roman theatre, — having described
a circle of the size intended for the lowest part of the theatre,
inscribe in it four equilateral triangles, the angles of wliich will
divide the circumference into 12 equal parts. Assume the
side of one of the triangles for the position of tlie scene. A
line drawn parallel to it through the diameter of the circle, will
mark the separation of the pulpitum of the proscenium
from the orchestra. The seven angleai^f the triangles in the
semicircle of the orchestra determine the position of the sculae
or steps leading from the orchestra between the cunei into
the first praecinctio. The scalae leading from these to the
second precinctio are in the middle of the intervals between
the scalse of the lower cunei. The five remaining angles of the
triangles determine the divisions of the scene, the length of
which ought to be double the diameter of the orchestra. The con-
struction of the Greek theatre differs in some respects from that
of the Roman. In the Greek three squares are inscribed in
the circle of the lowest part of the theatre, dividing the circimi-
ference into 12 equal parts as before. Having assumed a side
of one of the squares for the position of the Ao/gTovor pulpit uin
of the proscenium, a line parallel to it, touching the cireum-
ference of the circle in the point most distant from the cavea,
will determine the line of the scene. Draw a diameter of tlie
circle parallel to t)ie scene, and from each extremity of the dia-
meter as a centre describe a curve from the o|)posite extremity
until it intersects the line of the proscenium. These two curves,
the semicircle find the proscenium, inclose the orchc.stra.”

CONSTRUCTION OF THK ROAf .VN TUFA Tit K, .AfCOItl)-
INC. TO VITRUVIliS.

V 2

324

A B C P £ F A» Cavea.

F P Fulpitum of the Proscenium.

G n Scene.

1 Proscenium.

K K Cunei separated by Scalae.

F £ D F Orchestra.

L Postscenium.

CONSTRUCTION M*THE ORCHESTRA OF THE GREEK

THEATRE, According to vitruvius.

A C Piilpitum of the Proscenium.

A R C A Orchestra.

D D Cuiici of the Cavea.

E PrcsctMiiura.

F G .Scene.

H T K The tlircc centres, from which the curve of the Orchestra is
described.

The effect of these two modes of construction was, to give a
more spacious cavea and a more spacious orchestra to the
Clreek theatre than to the Roman j a scene further removed
from the middle of the cavea, and a narrower pulpitum to the
proscenium. The intention of their difference is to be found in
the different destinations of the two theatres. Among the
Greeks the tragic and comic actors only performed on the
scene ; all other exhibitions took place in the orchestra ; and

325

hence tlieiv theatrical artists were divided into Scenici and Thy-
melici — the latter term being derived from the thymele or altar
of Bacchus ; which in process of time was often used as syno-
nymous with the whole orchestra. The Roman theatres, on the
other hand, being chiefly intended for dramatic representations,
it was desirable to bring the scene its near as possible to the
centre of the cavea ; the orchestra was used only for the move-
able seats of privileged spectators, and the cavea seldom ex-
ceeded a semicircle. In Homan theatres the height of the pul-
pitum above the orchestra was only five feet, that the spectators
in that part of the tlieatre might command a good view of the
stage — as in our pit j in the Greek theatres, there being no
spectators in the orchestra, it was ten or twelve feet higli

As no science can less bear to be fettered by rules than ar-
chitecture, it will not be surprising to find, as we increase our
collection of ancient examples, that the speculations of Vitruvius
seldom agree with the ancient monuments. His rules, in fact,
are rather to be regarded as his own system, than that which was
followed by the architects of Greece 3 whose genius is in no-
thing more remarkable than in the variety which pcrvadf?d their
designs, according to the circumstances of each particular
work j and in the singular felicity with which they harmonized
the several parts of those designs.

The theatre of Patara may exemplify the rules given by Vi-
truvius for the position of the scene in (ireek theatres, and for
that of the seal®, wliicli determine the dimensions of the cunei :
but, like all the other theatres in Asia Minor, it is an excep-
tion to his rule for constructing the curve of the orchestra or
cavea ; this curve being in all those theatres a segment of one
and the same circle, instead of being formed from three cen-
tres.

And even in regard to the position of the scene, the theatre
of Patara is subject to the remark, that between the lower scat
of the cavea and the orchestra there is a pr»cinctio or Sta^ujfLCc f,
twelve feet wide, and four feet (not ten or twelve, as he ])re-
scribes in Greek theatres) in height above the level of the

• Vitruv. L 5, c. 6, 7.

f llie lower B in tlic plan and section of the theatre of Patara an-
nexed.

326

orchestra 3 which diazoma must be included within the circle of
the orchestra, in order to make the scene a tangent to that
circle, as the rule of Vitruvius requires. The scene of the the-
atre of Myra is still more distant from the cavea.

It is impossible to determine, without further excavation,
wliether in any existing theatre the curve of the orchestra at
the two ends next the proscenium was formed from three cen-
tres as Vitruvius has described ; but in no instance that has yet
been remarked are the extremities of the vavea constructed in
this manner ; they are either right lines or continuations of the
same circle which forms the middle of the cavea.

The great theatre of Laodiceia * is also an exception to the
rules of Vitruvius, of rather it exemplifies a mixture of his Greek
and Uoman theatre j for with a cavea, spacious like that of the
Greek theatre, it has a Roman scene 3 as not only appears
from the position of the scene within the curve of the orchestra,
but likewise from the great niche in the centre of the scene,
which is found also at Ilierapolis, and is remarked at Nicopolis
of Epirus, and in some other theatres of Roman construction t.

The advantage of the Asiatic over the European construc-
tion in (ireek theatres, consisted only in the increase of capa-
city derived from the obliquity of the two ends of the cavea.
As the spectators in the upper seats of the two extremities must
have had a very imperfect view of the scene, the Asiatic con-
struction may ])erhaps have been adopted to provide accommo-
dation for the classes who cared less for the drama than for the
dancing and dumb-show of the orchestra : and these classes
may perhaps have !)een more numerous in the Asiatit than in
the European cities of (Treece.

In Asia Minor the lower part of the cavea was generally ex-
cavateil in a hill, and the upper part was built of masonry
raised upon arches 5 so that there W’as a direct acTCss from the
level of the ground at the back of the theatre into the middle
diazoma, either at the two ends of the diazoma, or by arched vo-

• Sot* Ionian Antiquities, vol. 2, pi. -tj).

■f* Perhaps the tlieatrc of Laodiceia was accommodated to the Itojnan
mode of construction, when that city became tlie se.'it of tlie Homan go-
vermnent in Asia, and when the stadiimi was converted into an amphi-
thc.itre in the Koinan Tashiou. Sec page 245.

327

initories in the intermediate parts of the curye^ under the upper
division of the cavea. The same mode of construction occurred
also in some of the theatres of European Greece ; though in
the more ancient theatres of that country it seems to have been
the common practice to excavate all the middle part of the ca-
vea and even the seats out of the rock. It seldom happened
that theatres were constructed in plains, as it added so much
to the labour and expense of them : instances, however, exist
at Maniineia and Megalopolis.

As the scene and every part of the theatre relating to the
spectacle stood on level ground at the lowest part of the build-
ing, it has invariably happened, in all the remaining theatres
of Greece and Asia, that the parts belongitig to the scene have
been more or less buried in their own ruins, and in those of the ca-
vea, which rises above them like a crumbling mountain. It is only
by excavating,therefore, that we can arrive at an exact knowledge
of the construction of that which is the most important part of
the Greek theatre : but when circumstances admit of a complete
examination of the theatres of llierapolis, Patara, Laodiccia,
Side, of some in Syria, which are in a remarkable state of pre-
servation, and of two or three in European Greece, great light
may he tlirown on many interesting incpiiries relating to the an-
cient drama.

1 may here take the opportunity of observing, that there arc
no remains of Greek architecture more illustrative of the ancient
state of society in (ireece than the theatres. Comi)aring them
with modern works of the same kind, we are ast nils ed at the
opulence required to collect the materials of those immense edi-
fices, and afterwards to construct them 5 as well as at the effect
of those customs and institutions, which, in filling the theatre,
could inspire such a multitirh of citizens with a single sentirnenl
of curiosity, amusement, or political feeling. It may be said that
the theatres of (ireece arc an existing proof of the populous-
ness of the states of that country, much more convincing than
the arguments of those who have endeavoured to confute the re-
ceived opinion on this subject. No Grecian community was com-
plete without a theatre. In the principal cities they were from
350 to 500 feet in diameter, and aipable of containing from eight

328

or ten to twenty thousand spectators. 1 have already^ in
another work shown some reasons for believing that the
Greeks were indebted for the invention of these buildings to the
same city, to which they owed so large a share of their civiliza-
tion. The Dionysiac theatre at Athens, in the form in which
it was constructed at the time that /Bschylus brought the drama
to perfection, seems to have been the original model which, with
some slight variations, was adopted throughout the Grecian
states both of Europe and Asia.

1 subjoin the diameters of the principal theatres in existence.
They were all measured by Mr. Cockerell, except those marked
D. j which are from tlie Missions of the Society of Dilettant .
All those of Greece Proper I have myself measured 3 but the
reader will undoubtedly be better satisfied in possessing the
measurements of Mr. Cockerell.

THEATRES OF ASIA MINOR.

Ephesus

Kxterior

Diameter.

. . 660

I nterior
Diani.

. 240

Tralles ♦

. .540

. 150

Miletus (D)

. . 472

224

Stratoniceia (D)

. 390

106

Side

. . 390

120

Sardes *

. 396

162

Laodiceia (D)

. . 364

136

Myra

. 360

120

Hierapolis

. . 346

100

Patara

. 265

96

Teos * (Roman construction) . .

, . 285

70

Pompeiopolis * (Ditto) ....

. 219

138

Limyra .

, . 195

—

Anemurium (Roman construction)

. 19/

—

Sclinus in Cilicia

. 114

—

Cnidus (D) about

. 400

—

f Topography of Atlions, si-ct. -J.

* Those marked * arc so much ruined, that it is diiliciilt to procure
an exact nicasurenieiit.

329

THEATRES IN EUROPEAN GREECE.

Exterior Interior
Diameter. Diam.

Sparta* 4f>3 . 217

Near Joannina in Epirus 445 121

Argos* 435 . 217

Syracusa 342 . 114

Sicyon* 313 . 100

Mantineia * 227 —

Delus * 175. —

Epidaurus* — . 91

Nicopolis in Epirus (Roman constr.) . 360 . 120

ODEIA t-

Nicopolis 139 . 93

Messcnc (of a singular form, being 1 1 2 feet long) 93

NOTE TO PAGE 229.

The reader will perhaps be curious to learn something more
of the Latin inscription of Stratoniceia mentioned in the note
to page 229 } which, although it has been more than a century
in England, and the greater part of that time in the British
Museum, has never yet been ])ubli.shed. It consists of a de-
cree, very long and wordy, and written in a style strongly
indicating a declining Latinity, followed by a list of article.s
of provision in most common use among the Uoman.s, with
pricc.s annexed to each of them.

The decri?e makc.s some allusion to the damages su.stnined by
recent incursions of the Barbarians into the Roman empire, and
to its actual pacific state. It contains repeated reflections on
the avarice of forestallers, who frustrate the bounty of nature j
refers to the plenty which generally reigns in Asia ; directs that
those engaged in the traffic of provisions shall never exceed
the subjoined prices in time of scarcity j and denounces ca-
pital punishment against such its shall infringe the decree which

• Sec note * in the preceding page.

f In Asia Minor there still exist Odeia at Laodiceia and Anemurium.

330

is promulgated to the whole world — called our world : the de-
cree being (ts usual in the first person. There is no mention
however made of the Emperor s name, but there are some ex-
pressions which seem to indicate that his reign had already been
of some length. For the following reasons I am inclined to think
it was a decree of the Emperor Theodosius, it appears by the
tailor’s work at the end of the catalogue, that silken garments
were in very common use. Now it is known that, as late as
the reign of Aurelian, they were still very rare and expensive ;
and that their use was confined almost entirely to women
The only successors of Aurelian, whose length of reign and sta-
bility of power were suited to the language of the Inscription,
are Diocletian, Constantine, and Theodosius. As Diocletian
arrived at the empire only ten years after the death of Aurelian,
it cannot be supposed that the use of silk had in his time be-
come so common jus the Inscription indicates. Constantine
chiefly triumphed over his Roman rivals j but the victorie.s of
Theodosius over the Goths, who under Valens had overrun all
Tliruce, were the peculiar pride and characteristic of the reign
of Theodosius. Ammiiinus, who wrote his History in that reign,
observes that tlic use of silken garments, formerly confined to the
nobility, had then become common among the lower classes tj
a state of customs which appears to be in exact conformity
with the prices of the tailors’ work in silk in the Inscription,
as well as w ith the classification of those articles of dress among
the other garments used by the common people of that age —
namely, the rough coat, or birrhus j the caracallis, or hooded
cloke, which soon afterwards became the dress of the monks j
the Gallic breeches, and the socks. The late date of the
Inscription is .shown by its barbarous style, and the use
of several words not found in earlier Latin j but that which
declares its age more strongly, perhaps, than any other pecu-
liarity, is the very reduced value of the drachma or denarius,

* V^opisir. in Aurelian.

f Serievnn ad usus antchac nobiliiim nunc etiam inferioriim sine ulla
diseretionc. Aminian. 1, 1^3. c. O’. Although silken garments were then
so cunitnon, Aiuinianus still descril>e-s silk, .is Virgil and Pliny had done
three centuries earlier, as a sort of woolly substance (lanugo, canities firon-
dium) which was combed from a tree in China.

in its exchange for the necessaries of life. It is true that the
prices in the decree are given as a maximum •, but the value of
the denarius must have very greatly diminished from that which
it bore in the two first centuries of the Roman Empire, when
butchers’ meat was about 2 denarii the pound, and middling
wheat from 3 to G denarii the modius *, — before, under any cir-
cumstances contemjdatcd by the Homan government, it could
have been equivalent to an oyster, or the hundredth part of a
lean goose. It appears from the coins of the early Byzantine
Emperors, that great liberties were at that period taken with the
weight of the denarius, and that it varied greatly between the
time of Constantine and that of the final division of the Empire;
but its diminution of value seems from this inscription to have
been mueli greater than has hitherto been supposed f-

The Inscription cannot well be referred to a later time than
that of Theodosius, as under his sons the Empire was again op-
pressed by the Barbarians ; and after the final separation of the
Empire, which took place in their reign, the use of the Latin
language was gradually laid aside in the acts of government of
the Eastern Kin})ire,

It would be difficult to deduce any inference as to the date
of the Inscription from the form of the letters ; more especially
as the Ilaileian MS. of Slierard, in which it is j)rcscrvcd, is only
the copy of a copy. The characters seem to have been executed
by a (iieek engraver, and to have been left unfinished, so that
the S resembles a (ireek gamma, and the A a lambda. The
following is a specimen of the characters, as nearly as they can
be represented by printed types.

ETEEM EKREUAECErroUM KV\ riEETI m

lCVR)ltl’LA(;KJrJUl irCONTKAFOKMAM
I’ lATlJTl II U I LT’CUxN ( T \L l i'lJ EIM I' A E J )E
NTIAC \T*ITALIPERI(A LOrriUt lETC Il

Et semper praiceptor metus justissimus iuvenitur esse modera-
tor. Placet si quis contra formam statuti hiijus convictus fueril
audentia capital! pcriculo subjirictur.

' Sei* Atljutlinoi an Am’ient VVfi{r}ii«s, .

I St*e del' Isle. ivc.

332

The following is the list of provisions with their prices. It is
very possible that Mr. W. Bankes may have procured a more
complete copy of the Inscription, and a longer list.

It should be observed that the denomination of coin, here
expressed by an asterisk, is in the original denoted by the usual
sign of the denarius, namely X wuth a transverse line, or an
asterisk with six points. The sign of quantity here expressed
byy*, which nearly resembles the note in the original, is probably
S for sextarius, with a transverse line j but it may be worthy of
remark, that this note is not commonly found in ancient manu-
scripts like the asterisk for drachma or denarius.

Conditi itiiiy^unum * viginti quatuor (’)

Apsinthi ital^^unum * viginti
Rhosati (^) itaiy*unum * viginti
Item olei

Olei fli)ris (“') ital^*unum * viginti quatuor
Olei sequentis ital /*unum * viginti qua ....

Olei cibari (^) itaiy*unum # duodecim
Olei raphanini (•’) ital y'unum # octo
Aceti ital /*unum * sex

Liquaminis ('*) primi iUil y*unum * se

Liquaminis sccundi ital /'unum * decern
Salis F M (’) unum * centum

* i.e. one Italian soxtarius cost 124 denarii, llic sextarius or sextarium
xvas in general use among the Greeks under tlie Roman Government, 'llie
Greek sextiiriiis contained 1.5 ounces of oil or 16 of water. Galen dcCoinp.
Med. 1. 1. — L. I’aJtus ap. Gra-v. Thus, vol, 11.

” Conditiiin, wine mixed with various ingredients ; in the Apsinthium
the prevailing Ingredient wsis worinw'ood, and in the Rhosatuin roses. Api.*
ciusy 1. 1, has given us the receipt for making these tliree mixtures.

® (Oleum) quod postmolam priinuin est, llos.jPlin. II. N. 1. 1,5. c. (>. cd.
Ilarduin.

* Cibari uin, the most ordinary kind of oil used by soldiers, &c.f and
made from the refuse of the olives. Columella, 1. 12. c. .50.

* Kaphaniiiiimy oil of coleseed, or rape. Plin. 11. N. 1. 23. c. 49. Dios-
cor. 1. l.c. 41.

” Liqiiamen : this favourite CiiiuUnieiit, also called Garum, as having been
originally obtained from tlic hsh garum, w'as made by throwing salt on the
entrails of fish, exposing the mixture to the suu for some time, aud then
separating tlie liquid part. This liquor was the liquamen ; the residue was
called Alec. Geopoii.l. 20. c. ult. Plin. 11. N. 1.31. c.43. There wereother
kinds of liquamen less commonly used, which are described by .\picius.
o

’ ]\I was the usual note for modius or modiiun, thctlry measure in most

333

Skills conditi (*) italicum y*unum * o

Mellls optimi ital y*unum * cu

Mellis secundi ital uniim # vig ....

Mellis foenicini (^) ital y* unum * octo
Item earn is

Carnis porcinae ital po ( "') unum * duodecim
Cam is bubulae ital po unum * octo

Carnis caprinae sive vervecinae ital po unum *

Vulvae (“) ital po unum * viginti quattuor
Suminis (‘•) ital po unum * viginti
Ficati (‘3) optimi ital po unum # sedecim
Laridi optimi ital po unum # sedecim
Pernae optimae petasonis sive Menapicae vel
Ceritanae (*♦) ital po unum * viginti

common use in tlic time of tlie Roman Kinpire, from nlicnce the use of
the word passed into Italy and France and became the moggio and rauid.
The sextarius in like manner became the setier. Mere appear to be two
modia, that for salt preccdetl by F, and that for grain irruccded by K. 1
am unable to discover the meaning of this distinction.

" Sal conditum, salt mixed with drugs of several kinds and used fur me-
dicinal purposes Apic. 1. 1. c. 21,

* Perhaps incl phajiiicinuni, the debs or elite honey of Egypt and Arabia.

One Italian pound.

" Vulva virginis lum-ell'T, Apicius calls it vulva sterilis» to diKtinguish
it from the sumen. For the mode of dressing these two famous dainties
see Apicius 1. 7.

” Sumen--abdomon suis cum iibcre. Optimum nno die post pnrliim.
Plin. H. N. 1. 11. c. 84.

** Ficatum, in Greek vvKuriv, hog’s liver cnl.irgcd by a ))artieular mode
of fatting, 'riio ivord was originally derived from the fatting of geest? with
figs for a similar puqiose— ficis pastum jeeur anseris albi. I For. It was said
to have been the invention of the first Apicius, who lived in the time of the
Republic, and w'hose name was assumed by some other subscijuent prt)-
fessors of the culinary art. Apicius Cadius, whose work is extant, appears,
from the names and descriptions which he gives to some of the dishes or
sauces, to have lived not long after the reign of Elagabuliis. See the pre-
face to the edition of Apicius, by Mr. Faster, physician to Queen Anne.
From ficatum, truKvro*, are derived the Italian and modern Greek words
fegato, used for liver in general.

Fumosa: cum pede pernae, I lor. Petaso and pema appear, from
Athenieiis, to have been synonymous, vv Kukourt (1. 14.

c. ‘Jl.). Perna was perhaps more particularly the ham, and petaso every
part of the hog similarly cured. I^aridtim or Inrdiim was the fat part of the

Mai'sicae ('^) ital po unum # vigiiiti
Adipis recentis ital po unum # duodecim
Axungiae ital po unum * duodecim

Ungellae — quattuor et Aqualiculum pretioqiio distrahitur
Isicium (‘'^) porcinum unciae unius * duod ....

Isicia bubula ital po unum # deccm
Lucanicarum ('**) ital po unum # sedecem
Lucanicarum bubularum ital po uno # dec. .

Fasionus pastus ducentis quinquaginta
Fasionus agrestis * centum viginti quinque
Fasia pasta po . . . * ducentis
Fasiana non pasta # centum
Anser pastus # ducentis
Anser non pjtstus # centum

Pullo .... * sexaginta
Perdix .... * triginta
Turtur . . * duodecim
M’urtur . . # duodecim
Turdorum . . * sexaginta
Palumb . . . . # viginti
Columb .... * viginti quattuor
Attagen * viginti

bacon. Mennpica was the* ham of Westphalia, Ceritnnathai of the Cer-
clagiu* in the Pyrenees, the excellence of which is attested by Strabo (j). Ifiii).

Marsicfic, sc. perna;. This l>eing of the same price as the two former
w'as probably a ftireign barn also; not from the IVIarsi of Italy, hut from
the Mnrsi near the mouth of the lUiine.

Ungell.'v — ungula* suiim ct pedes, Apir. 1. 4. c. 7. /\i|ualienlum —
venter poreimis ; for the mode of dres.sing it see Ajiicius, 1. 7. c. 7.

Apicius has described the mode of making isicia as \vell of pork as
of birds, shell-fish, ^c. 'flicy consisted of the meat minced with a variety
of condiments, and were made either into tcssella*, scpiare cakes, or w'rapt
in a bay leaf; and sometimes they were uincntata or inclosed in a membrane
like our sausages. It appears from this inscriptioii that their common si/c
w’as about an ounce in w'cighf. The Turkish dolma inclosetl in a vine leaf
seems to be a lineal descendant of the isicium. From salsuin isicium is
derived the Italian salsiccio, and thence saucisse and sausage.

** Lucanica*, sausages of a jiarticular kind, originally from lAicani.a, wliich
was famous for its pork. Apiciii.s (1. c. 4.) has described the mode of
making the Lucanicie.

335

Anas # cuadraginta
Lepus * centum quinquaginta
("unic(ulus) * quadraginta
. . pe , . viginti

quadraginta

sedecim

Femina

Coturnices n * numero duccntis

Sturni decern * viginti

Aprunae ital po * sedicini

Cervinae ital po * duoilecim

Dorcis sive caprai vel danimae ital po duodecim

Porcinae lactantis * sedicini

Agnus M po . . . . * duodecim

Haedus ('») M po 1 # <liiodccim

Sevi ital po 1 * sex

Butyri ital po I * sedecim

Item pisces

Piscis aspratilis (^^‘) marini ital po 1 # viginti (junttuor

Piscis sccundi ital po 1 * sedecim

Piscis fluvialis opt. po I * duodecim

Piscis sccundi fluvialis ital po 1 * ocfo

Piscisalsi ital po 1 * sex

OstriiE no centum * centum

Echini no centum ^ quinquaginta

Echini recentis purgati ital y*unum * quadraginta

Echini salsi ital /‘uiium * centum

Sphondili (^') marini no centum # quinquaginta

Sagenici (••) ital po 1 * duodecim

The Uomau niodu of dressing all the birds, game, in tlie prece-
ding list may be seen in Apicius.

*® Pisces aspratiles, c|uales sunt mcrul.-e, scaiiriis Dc piscibus gene-

ralitcr quales invcnuis albos carncs Jiabentcs, quod genus sunt aspratiles
.... omnem aspratilem pi:-icem, ut sunt lupi, corvi. Plni. ^'alenan. de lie
Med. 1. 5. Fish caught in deep water and near rocky shores, 'fhe word
asiiratilis is not found in authors of a better time, who use saxutilis with
the same meaning. Sec Pliny, Columella.

Spliondili. Apic. 1.9. c. 14,

” Sagenici, from retyr.vr.y whence the Knglish word sein ; in Latin it was
called everriculiim, and served to catch the small lish catc-n only by the

Sards sive Sardine po i # sedecim

Item Cardus majores no quinque # decern

Sequentes no decern

Intibus optima no decern

Sequentis no decern

Malvffi maxim® no VI

Malvae sequentis deccm

Lactucs optim® no V

Sequentes no decern # quattuor
Coliculi 0 ])timi no V # quattuor
Sequentes no X * quattuor
Cums optim® fascem I * quinque
Porri maximi no X * octo

Sequentes no viginti

Bet® maxim® no V

Sequentes no X

Radices maxim®

Sequentes

Hap® maxim® no X

Sequentes no X

Ceparum siccarum

Cep® verdes ( ’*)

Sequentes

C-apparis

Sisinariorum (-•’) ital

Cucurbit®

Sequentes

Melopepones

Sequentes

Pepones

Fitsiolorum

Asparagi Hortulani

common people, or given as food to the choice fisli which some of the rich
Roiuans kept in piscina*. See Varrode Re Rust. I. X c. 17.

** Cima*. Apic^— Cyiuae. Plin. Columcl. The small tender shoots of the
cabbage. See PHn. H. N. 1. 19. c. 41.

Here and in two other instances below, we find the beginning of tlie
change of viridis into the Italian verdc.

Sisinarii, {lerlmps the same as Cuiara*, artichokes.

Afiparagi Agrextes

Rusci (*^)

Ciceris

Fabae virdes

Fascioli virdes

.... ctiam

licitum sit

Frumenti KM

Hordei K M unum #

Centenum sivc sicale (^') K M iinuin

Milipisti K M unum * centum
Militegri (*^) K M * quinquaginta
Panicii K M * quinquaginta
Speltac .... KM# centum

o

Scandulae (’'’) sive speltae K M # triginta

Fabae fressae # centum

Fabae non fressae (^‘) * sexanta ....

Lenticlae # centum

Herviliae . , , . * octocenta

Pisae fractae # centum

Pisse non fractae , . . . # sesacinta
Ciceris .... * centum
Hervi . . . . # centum
Avenm . . . * triginta

Uiisnis, in Kiiglisli, butcher’s broom ; it puts forth many tender
shoots ill the spring, which wore catcti like nsparagirs. Dioscor. I. 4. c. hlG.

Sicale, in French scigle, rye. The name of this grain, written sccale,
by Pliny, is here in the state of transition to the sigalis, sigalum, A-c.

of the middle ages. The synonymous Cntfrunni I have not found in any
author; it seems to h.'ivc been doriveil from the jirolific nature of the

grain, which was supposed to y’sdd a hiiiulred .fold. Secale nascitur

qualicunqiie solo cum centesimo graiio. Plin. II. N. I. 18. r. 40.

“ Alilii ptJiti and milii inu.*gri formed into single wonls like Piseisalsi
above.

•*' The grain still c;Uied paiiico in Italy.

® .Scandula. Vegeriii.s, 1. 1?. c.

** Fabffi fressie and fabse non fressa; are expressions of low I^iioity for
fabiv frnctn; and fab.-e solida*, as panicii and lenticla; arc terms of the
same perio<i for panic! and lenticulir.

338

Kienigra:ci . . . . # centum

scripturae versuum no centum

Tabellanioni in scriptura livelli bel tabulae versibus no

centum

Bracario pro excisura ct urnatura

Pro birro qualitatis primae * se

Pro birro qualitatis secundae * quadra

Pro Caracalli major! viginti
Pro Caracalli minori * viginti
Pro Vracibus * viginti
Pro Udonibus * quattuor

Sarcinatori in bestc soubtili replicatoriae * sex

Eidcm aperturae cum suvsutura sit olosericae m quinquaginta
Eidem aperturae cum subsutura subsericae « triginta
Subsuturae in beste grossiori # quattuor

NOTE TO PAGE 230.

Sherard copied the following curious inscription in two places
at Mylasa : —

MATXSIlAOSEKATOMNaTOMBnMONANEGHKEN
Mausolus, who here erects an altar to Hecatomnus, was his
eldest son, and his successor in the kingdom of Curia. Mau-
solus married his eldest sister Artemisia, who on his death
built the celebrated sepulchre at Halicarnassus called Mauso-
leum. According to Pliny, Mausolus died in the second year
of the lOGth Olympiad, or before Christ 355. t He was suc-
ceeded in the regal authority by Artemisia, according to a cus-
tom which Arrian observes to have been not uncommon in
Asia J . Artemisia died before the monument of Mausolus was
finished, and was succeeded by Hydrieus the second son of
Hecatomnus, and he by his widow and sister Ada. Ada wiis
expelled from Halicarnassus by her brother Pixodarus, the third

*' Oloscrica, a cloth entirely silken — subsorica, that in which the warp
only was of* silk. For the several articles of dress in this list see the writers
de lie Vestiariaixi the (ith volume of Graivii Thesaurus,
f Flin. Hist. Nat. 1. 'o6. c. 1, 6.

f In tJio neighbouring province of I..ycia, genealogy was reckoned by
the feniale side in preference to tlie male. Ilerodot. 1. 1. c. 17.^.

339

son of Hecatomnus } who submitted to the Peraians^ and was
succeeded by the Persian satrap Orontobates, who had married
his daughter. It was from this Persian that Alexander took
Halicarnassus, after an obstinate defence, in the year b.c. 334,
when he restored the kingdom of Caria to Ada ; who, on being
expelled from the sovereignty by her brother, had remained in
possession of Alindaf-

The reduplication of the sigma in Mau(ri^w^.of is found also
in other proper names of this period of time. The conversion
of N before B into M, was in conformity with a pronunciation
which has continued to the present day. Other conversions of a
similar kind arc often found in inscriptions : see some exam-
ples in the Inscriptiones Antiqme of Chishull and of Chandler.

NOTE TO PAGE 248.

The following are the two inscriptions mentioned in the text
as containing the name of Tralles, and as having been copied
by Sherard at (Thiuz<51 Hissar.

I.

STHMA THS FErOT-

-XIAX KAl OI <MA02EBA2T0I
NEOl KAl Ol EN TPAAAESl
PflMAIOl ETEIMH2AN TIH
KA HANTXON ETTTXON
KOIBIAON STPATHCHSAN-
-TA THN NTKTEPINHN XTPA-
-THPIAN AEKAIIPHTETSAN-
-TA APrrPOTAMIETXANTA
EKAANEIXANTA KOTPATO-
-]»EIXANTA TnN PllMAIliN
XErmNHXANTA AIIO AIPT-
-HTOT KAl EHEITON IIOIHXAN
TA EIX TON XKITON KAl AONTA
EIX TO AHMOXION XB^KZ NE-
-OHOIHXANTA XTPATHPHVAN-
-TA ArOI’ANOMHXANTA 4»lAO-

+ Strabo, p. Arrian, I. 1. r. 23.

340

-TEIMUS ANA0ENTA AE EK THN
lATHN KAI TAS EN TH O'l^APJO-
-IIHAEI M A PM AFINAS TPAllE-
-ZA .IBS.. TAIS BASESIN B
n .TITIOS MHOYBIANOS K.

-AHN TON EArj’ON ^lAON

II.

MAPKON NHNION ETTTXH
TON AHIOAOrnTATON
rPAMMATEA
BOTAHS AHMOT
SEITriNHSANTA EIPHNAPXH-
-SANTA STPATHPHSANTA
AEKAnPUTETSANTA KAI
Al OAOT TOT ETOTS IIPOTON
KAI MONON 4>IAOTEIMnS
ArOPANOMHSANTA
KAI 0ENTA EAAIOT
HMEi’AS llENTE
H AAMOPOTATH KAISAPEHN
TPAAAIANflN IIOAIS
EK rns lAinN rirosoAo^i
IIPONOHSAMENON TllS AXASTA-
-SEOS TllS TIMHS M ATP AHTOIAOT
lOTAlANOT XPTSOa^OPOT KAI
M ATP TPO<MMOT TPAMMATEIiS.

NOTE TO PAGE 2.53.

In the annexed plate are plans, on a .small scale, of the thea-
tre and palcestra of Hierapolis, from the drawings of Mr. Coc-
kerell. I know of only two other palaestrae, or gymnasiaf,
in a state of preservation sufficient to give any useful informa-
tion on the subject of these buildings, whose spacious chambers
and massy walls show the importance which was attached to
them by the ancients.

\ At Alexandria Troas and Ephesus. For their plans see Antiquities
pf Ioni.n, part 2, pi. 40, 54.

342

Near the mineral sources which rise in the centre of the site
of Hierapolis, Mr. Cockerell observed the Plutonium or mephi-
tic cavern, which eluded the search of Pococke and of Chand-
ler. Dio accurately remarks that it was situated below the
theatre, Strabo says that it was fatal to oxen placed within its
influence, and both he and Dio assert that they exposed birds to
it, which fell dead immediately. Mr. C. found several small birds
lying dead near the grotto > and though he tried its effects on a
fowl for a whole day without any result, he was assured by the
inhabitants that it was sometimes fatal to their sheep and oxen,
but that it was not always equally dangerous. The ancient au-
thors who have mentioned this Plutonium are Strabo (p. 629.)
Pliny (1. 2. c. 9 .j.) Dion Cassius (I. 68. c. 27.) Apuleius (de
Mundo),Ammianus (1.23. r.6.),and Damascius (ap. Photii Bibl.
p. 1054.)

NOTE TO PAGE 259.

Pliny (1. 36. c. 21.) says, the temple of Ephesus was built
" in solo palustri nc terrse motus sentiret aut hiatus timeret.’*

NOTE TO PAGE 265.

Mr. Cockerell has been so kind as to furnish me with the
following note on the antiquities of Sardes : —

Sardes was magnificently situated on one of the roots of
Mount Tmolus, which commands an extensive view to the
northward over the valley of the Hermus, and the country be-
yond it. To the south of the city, in a small plain watered by
the Pactolus, stood the temple, built of coarse whitish marble.
The western front was on the bank of the river ; the eastern
under the impending heights of the Acropolis.

“ Two columns of the exterior order of the east front, and
one column of the portico of the pronaus, are still standing,
with their capitals : the two former still support the stone of
the architrave, which stretched from the centre of one column
to the centre of the other. The columns are buried nearly
to half their height in the soil, which has accumulated in the
valley since their erection ; chiefly, it is probable, by the de-
struction of the hill of the .Acropolis, which is continually
crumbling, and which presents a most rugged and fantastic

343

outline. On the edges of its summit the remains of the an<
cient walls are still observable in many places. I was told that,
four years ago, three other columns of the temple were still
standing, and tliat they were thrown down by the Turks, for
the sake of the gold which they expected to find in the joints f.

Besides the three standing columns which 1 have men-
tioned, there are truncated portions of four others belonging to
the eastern front, and of one belonging to the portico of the
pronaus 3 together with a j)art of the wall of tlie cclla. When it
is considered that these remains are 25 feet above the pavement,
it cannot be doubted that an excavation would expose the great-
er part of the building : even now, however, there is sufficient
above the soil to give an idea of the dimensions of the tem-
ple, and to show that it wius one of the most magnificent in
Greece 5 for though in extent it was inferior to the temples of
Juno at Samus, and of Apollo at Branchidic, the proportions of
the order are at least equal to tho.se of tlic former, and exceed
those of the latter. The following plan and elevation will illus-
trate w’hat I have just stated : the shading expresses those
parts which still remain in their places above the soil.

The dimensions are as follow : —

Diameter of the exterior columns, at about 35 feet F. In.

below the capital 64^

Diameter of the exterior columns under the capital 5 6 J

Diameter of interior columns under the capital . . C OJ-

Diamcter of the same under the caps 5 3

The height of the entire column has been assumed from the
proportions of those at Branchidse, Miletus, &c. The stone A
must have weighed 25 Ions, and that above the centre interco-
lumnium was still larger.

The capital, appeared to me to surpa.ss any specimen of
the Ionic 1 had seen in perfection of design and execution. I
suppose the temple to have been an oetastyle dipteriis, with
seventeen columns in the flanks 3 though in regard to the num-
ber in the flanks, I am more guided by the proportion of the other

f Pcyssoncl, in a rude drawing of tlie temple made in the year 1750,
represents six columns and a part of tlie cell standing. Three of the co-
lumns were surmounted by an entablature.

344

dipteral temples of the Ionic order than by any proof that can
be derived from the ruins in their present state. The gradual
diminution of the intercolumnia from the centre of the front to
the angles, is rcMuarkablc, and, I believe, without any other ex-
ample. The larger intercolumnium in the centre is indeed
found in the temple of Diana at Magnesia and is recommend-
ed by Vitruvius lib. iii. c. 1 1 : the contraction of the interco-
lumnia, in the flanks is exemplified in the temple of Samus. The
smaller diameter of the interior columns is not uncommon in
(iretk temples ; the cjipitals resembled those of the exterior or-
der. The flutings are not continued in any of the columns be-
Uw the capital j which I conceive to be a proof that this temple,
like that of Apollo Didymeus, was never finished.

^'The great height of the architrave, the peculiar style of the
design and vvorkinanshij), and the dill'erence of intercolumnia
in the faces and in the flanks of the peristyle, I cannot but re-
gard as tokens of high anthpiity ; and perhaps wc may consider
as no less so the vast size of the stones employed in the archi-
trave j and the circumstance of their being single stones, whereas
in the temple of Didyma and in the Parthenon there were two
blocks in the same situationf. In subsequent times the du-
rability ensured by this massive mode of construction was sa-
crificed for appearances, and for a more easy result.

‘'The merit of the very ancient architects in overcoming such
a difliculty, and the great expense incurred by it, maybe illus-
trated by tlie praelieal observiilion, that the price of the cubic
foot of stone is doubled and trebled, aceurding to size, as well in

t 'riu* UMsons which Mr. (\H’kcrell lioiv gives f.w l)clii*vi)ig that the
temple of Sardes w’as a building of very ingh antiquity, vender it probable
that it was the work of one of the kings, or ])erhaps of several successive
kings, of the Lydian dynasty ; which began under Gyges in 71.^, 11. C., and
ended with the capture of Ssinles hy Cyrus in It was undoubtedly

ill the same period, when the power .and opulence of Samus were at their
height, that the magniticeut temple of Juno in that islatul was construct-
ed ; and it w.is probably about the same time that the inhahitaiits of the
little island of ..‘Kgina, which was then sutliciently powerful to rival Samus
and even Athens, constructed the temple of Jiijiiter Panellenius. The
temple of Sardes was burnt by the lonians in the year 50:>. It may have
been repaired, but it is nt»t probable tJmt it was entirely rebuilt after that
misfortune.

345

THE TEMm: OF CYBEBE AT SARDES.

the quarrying a.s in the carriage and setting. Modern architecture
has indeed succeeded in producing buildings of immense bulk,
but they cannot be kept together \vith<iut continued repair ; and
the triumph is little more than that of balancing a skeleton on its
legs. In some late works only, such as the recent artificial
dorks and basins, have we imitated the snliflitv of the ancients,”

346

On the north side of the Acropolis of Sardes^ overlooking the
valley of the Hermus, is a theatre, attached to a stadium : in
the manner of which we find several examples in Asia Minor.
The stadium is near 1000 feet in length, the theatre near 400
in diameter.” •

The subjoined plate is intended to show the relative propor-
tions of the principal temples of Asia Minor, as well with each
other as with the four most celebrated temples of European
Greece. All these plans, except the first, are formed from
observations made by skilful architects, on the existing ruins of
the buildings.

1. Temple of Diana at Ephesus . — ^Vitruvius mentions this
building as an example of the class of temples which he calls
dipterus j and one of the characters of which, according to him,
is, that of having eight columns in front. His wwds, however,
are ambiguous, and I am disposed to think that he alludes, not
to the temple which existed in his time, but to the original work
of Chersiphron of Cnossus, and his son Metagenes, who were
cotemporaries of Theodorus and Rhoecus, the architects of the
Heraeum of Samus ; and whose building, after having been en-
larged by another architect, was destroyed by fire in the year
B.c. 35G : for it wtus not until then that the edifice was begun,
which, after 220 years employed in its construction, was in
perfection in the time of the Roman empire ; when it w^as no-
ticedby Strabo, Pliny, and Vitruvius f. In any case, as the ex-
pression of Vitruvius forms part of his absurd classification of
temples {, it deserves not much weight in contradiction to the

•j* Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 10’. c. 79. I. 36’. c. 21, 56. Strabo, p. f>40. Vitruv.
praef. in 1. 7.

\ “ Diptcros .aiitcm octastylos ctpronao ct postico, sed circa a^demdu-
pliccs Iiabet ordincs culiimnuriiin siciitcst aulcs (iiiirini Dorica, ct Kphe-
siae Diana* lonica a Chersiphrone constituta.” Vitr. I, 3. c, 2.

Such is his definition of the dipterus whicli he confines to octastyle tem-
ples ; although wc find that all the dccasi^lc temples in existence arc diptc*
ral, that is to say, that tliey hay? a double range of columns round the cell.
In like manner he defines the peripteri as having six columns in front,
though all tem])les with a greater number of columns in front arc in fact
peripteral, or having a cell surrounded with columns. Thus also he
defines the hyptethri as temples having ten columns in front, though we

347

description of the building by Pliny, whose principal data will be
found Con the supposition that the temple was decastyle) to agree
in a remarkable manner with each otlier, as well lus with some
other great examples of the Ionic order. Pliny relates that the
temple was 220 feet in front, and 12,) long, and that the dia-
meter of the columns was one eighth of the height, which was
60 feet. The columns, therefore, were 7 { lt*et in diameter j
and the intercolumnia of the front, supposing them to have
been all equal, were 1 6 feet, or only 0 inches less than the eu-
style proportion of Vitruvius 3 which is 2^ times the diameter
of the column.

It has been thought that the side of this temple, having been
less than double the front, the number of columns on the sides
must also have been less than double the number in the fronts.
But this is by no means a necessary consequence 5 on the con-
trary, we find that in the temples of Samus and Branchidae, both
of which had one column more in the flank than in the front,
the side is less than double the front j and that the breadth ex-
ceeds half the length, even in a greater proportion than it did,
according to the numbers of Pliny, in the temple of Ephesus.
There is no reason, therefore, why the Ephesian temple, like
the temples of the same order, which most nearly approached
it in magnitude, namely those of Samus and Branchidie, should
not have had 21 columns in the sides. In regard to its total
number of columns, which in our copies of Pliny is 127, there
is evidently some error, as the number could not have been
uneven. It is very possible that the early copiers of Pliny
made the common oversight of omitting an unit, writing cxxvii.
instead of cxxviii. 3 for such would have been the number if we
suppose that there was a triple row of columns before the ves-
tibule of the cell in front, as in the temples of Samus and Sarde.s,
and also at the opposite end, as in the ()lymj)iuni of Athens 3
together with four columns between the Antre at either end of
the cclla, as the gcnenal construction of (ireek temples ren-
ders highly probable.

know that tin* Parthenon and tlic temple of Delphi, neither of which had
so many columns, were hypo’thral, or w ith a psirt of the cclla open to the
skv. But, in truth, Vitruvius him*irlf often forgets his own definitions,
and uses the Circek terms jimt mentiemvd aecordin;; to tlieir real meaning.

348

As it cannot be certain whether Pliny refers to the Greek or
Homan foot in this example, I have drawn the little plan in the
plate by the same scale of English feet used for the other fi-
gures. The English foot being somewhat greater than the
Homan, and smaller than the Greek, the error must be very
trifling, whether Pliny used the Greek or Homan.

2. Temple of Juno at Sanuts . — Herodotus has prepared us
for the magnificence of this building. He names it, together with
the temple of Ephesus, as the most admirable of all the works
of the Grecians ; and in another place he calls it the largest
temple of which he has any knowledge i*. Hence it appears
that the Ileneuin of Sam us was larger than the Artemisium of
Ephesus as the latter existed in the time of Herodotus.

Although only one column of the Heraeum deprived of its ca-
pital is now standing, its plan was ascertained by Mr. Bed-
ford, one of the architects who accompanied Sir William Cell
in the second Asiatic Mission of the Dilettanti. The length
was li4() feet, the breadth 189. It was a decastylus dipterus,
had 10 columns in front, 21 on the sides, a triple row in the
pronaus, and a do(d)ie row' of four columns between the ant®
at the entrance of the cella in front. The columns were about
7 feet in diameter at the bottom of the shaft, and about flO feet
high. The intercolumniation in the two fronts was 14 feet,
in the flank only lOJ feet, and in the flank of the pronau.s
something still less. There was no ap])earance of fluting in
the columns. The material was the wdiite and blueish-gray
marble of the island.

Temple of Apollo lyuli/meus at Branrhhhr in the. Milcsia,
— Of this building there remain tw'o columns wdth the archi-
trave, still standing ; the remainder is an immense mass of ruin.
The }»ro])onions of the order are more slender than those of
Samus and 8ardes, their height being (iM feet, with a diameter
of feet at the base of the shaft. The architrave is low'er,
and the building much less ancient than those two temples. It
was a decastylus dipterus, with 2 1 columns in the flanks, and
•1 betw’een the ant® of the pronaus : in all 112. The fluting

f Moaning tho l.irgost (Jreok lomi)k* • for in the other passage just al-
luded to. he names it for the pur^wse of adding that it was smaller than
the labyrinth of Mwrisin Egypt. Herod. I. 2. e. Hfi. 1. 3. c. 60.

341 )

of the columns is finished only in the exterior order } in the
interior it exists only under the capital f. The material of
the temple is white marble — in some parts blueish.

4. Temple of Cybehe at Sardes . — Of this the foregoing note
of Mr. Cockerell, the only person who has measured it with
care, has furnished the reader with all that is known. The plan
is constructed on the supposition, not yet sufficiently proved,
that it had 17 columns on the sides, and not more than a dou-
ble row at the back of the cella. Of the other particulars Mr.
C.’s measurements leave no doubt.

5. The Temple of Artemis Lencoplu tjene — which is now a
mere heap of ruins, among other remains of the city of Magne-
sia on the Mieander. Its material is white marble, not of the
purest kind. The length is IDH feet, the breadth 10(i ; mea-
sured, as usual, on the upper step of the stylobate. There were
8 columns in the fronts and lii in the sides, measuring 1 feet 8
inches in diameter at the bottom of the shaft. Tlie number of
columns was only 5() j this temple being the example which
Vitruvius has given of tlie pseudodipterus, a mode of construc-
tion by which 38 columns were .saved, and a Jiugt r space
was left for the reception of the people iu the peristyle. The
central intercoliunnium of the temple of Magne.sia is ft)und to
be three-fourths of a diameter greater tluin the other interco-
lumnia ; and we are informed by \'itruvius that such wa.s exactly
the proportion of the central intereoluinnium to tlie others in
the eustylus, a disposition so called as being the most harmo-
nious mode of jiroportioning the diameters to tliC intercidmn-
nia. The other interculumnia, however, of the temple of Mag-
nesia do not bear so large a projjortion to the diametc*r of the
column, as the eustylus required. — Vitruvius informs us that
Hermogenes of Alabanda, the architect of the temple of Mag-

■f* The fluting unilrr the eajiital forming part of the same hloek as the
capital, was executed, t<igellier with it, before the column was erected —
the remainder of the fluting was the last operation after the columns were
erected ; and hence it hajipens that we s«> often find fhe eolunms of (ireek
buildings fluted only under the capitals. The time and labmir ri(|uired
for the fluting finisluMl wiili th.it perfection which the (ireeks required,
were so great that it was often Jeferred until political eircumsiauci's no lon-
ger admitted of it.s execution ; the temple meantime lu ing complete, with
llie exception of this ornament, .\lmost all the grerjt edifices of atiliquitv
attest that such immense undertakings are -eldom ever fnr tied.

350

nesia^ was the inventor both of tlie Pseudodipterus and Eu-
stylus 5 but in regard to the former at least, his merit seems not
to have been very great, as we now find from the observations
of two architects, Messrs. Harris and Angell, who have lately
resided six months at Sclinus in Sicily for the purpose of exa>
mining the magnificent ruins at that place, which are much
more ancient than the time of Hermogenes, that the great tem-
ple of Jupiter as well as one of the hexastyles was constructed
on the principles of the pseudodipterus.

6. The Temple of Bacchus at Teos . — The ruins of this build-
ing afford only the diameter of the column (about 3 feet 8
inches at the base) , with a few less important details of the other
parts of the construction. But we have some means of judging
of the dimensions of the temple, from its being the example
of the eustylus given by Vitruvius, who informs us* also that
it was a hexastylus monopterus f. The columns therefore being
3.8 in diameter, and the intercolumniation of the eustylus
being 3 diameters in the centre with 2\ in the four other in-
tercolumnia, the tobd length of the front must have been about
64 feet on the upper step, which is very nearly the breadth of
another Ionic hexastyle, namely the temple of Minerva at
Priene. If we suppose the number of columns in the sides at
Teos to have been the same as at Priene, namely IJ, these
two temples must have been nearly equal in length as well as
in breadth. It seems highly probable that such was the num-
ber of columns in the sides at Teos, because V'itruvius, who
chiefly extracted his tlieorctical system from the commentaries
of the great architects of the Asiatic temples, prescribes ^e
number of columns in the hexastyle to be not more than 1 1 .
One of those Asiatic writers, we know, was Hermogenes the ar-
chitect of the temple at Teos j and he also was the inventor
of the eustylus or beautiful proportion, of which this temple
was an example | .

f Vitruv, 1. c. 1. 7. pra*f. .lociindiis, in his edition of Vitruvius,
roads ootastylus ; but all the best manuscripts have iiexastylon or exasty-
lon. See Sohiu*ider*s Note.

I It is probable Uiat the observations of Vitruvius on the eustylus and
pseudodipterus contain merely iJie ideas and names of Hermogenes, made
into a systom; and tliat no other examples of these two classes were
known to Vitruvius than the temples of 'leos and Majrnesia, Seliniis do-

351

PLANS OF TEMPLES AT

1. Efhksus, Ionic. 2. Samus, Ionic. 3. Brascuidjs, Ionic.
425 feet lonff, 220 I>ro«id. 346 x 189. 304 x 65.

352

7. Although the temple of Minerva at Priene seems to have
closely resembled that of Bacchus at Teos in the length and
breadth^ its other proportions were different, the intercolumnia
being smaller in proportion to the diameter of the column,
which measures four feet and a quarter at the bottom of the
shaft. The shaft was 38 feet high and fluted. The material of
the temple, as well as of the other buildings of the city, was
the stone of the mountain on which it stands — a blue and white
marble, not of a very compact texture.

Vitruvius has not spoken of the temple of Sardes, probably
because it was already in ruins in his time. The other six just
enumerated are the great examples of the Ionic order to which
he has particularly alluded, and which happen also to be the
temples of Asiatic Greece of which the existing ruins furnish
us with the most satisfactory details. There were other temples
of great celebrity in that country j particularly those of Apollo
at Grynium and at (Uarus, of Hercules at P>ythrie, and of
Minerva at Phoctea, to which we may add that of Cyzicus de-
stroyed by an earthquake in the reign of Antoninus Pius f j but
no remains of these edifices, except that of (!3arus, which is
stated by Captain Beaufort to have been of the Doric order,
have yet been discov(‘red.

NOTE TO PAGE 2G8.

To the testimony of Livy as to the Phrygius might have
been added that of Appian ; but it is evident that in the descrip-
tion of the battle of Magnesia both the historians have drawn
from the same source, namely Polybius, and Aj)pian is less par-
ticular than Livy as to the topography of the position.

Ktroyed by the Ciirthaginianis wns perti.niis in his time nearly in the same
shapeless slate of ruin that it is now.

f Plin. II. N. I. 36'. c. 32. Dion. Cass. 1. 70. ad fin. Dio says the co^
\\imns were riTQao^y vnn fiisv irdx«u "hi Tsvrnitnrei txatrrts «ri-

rfctf fjuStu a description which, if true y justifies his assertion, that the tem-
ple was the largest in existence.

INDEX.

AcMONIA, 167

Adalia, town and port of, 133.
The ancient Attaleia, 193.
Geographical remarks on the
ancient places on the road
from Adalia to Shugut, 144-
170

/Egae, or Ayas, site of, 208
Agameia, town and port of, 276
Agmonia, 25 note
Ak -serai, 75

Ak-shehr, the ancient Jullae or
Juliopolis, 59

Alabanda, investigation of the
site of, 230-236
Aladan river, the Scopas of an-
cient geographers, 80
Alara village, 129. Fortified
hill of, 130. Probably the
ancient Ptolemais, 197
Alaya, town and port, history
and present state of, 12.5,
126. Journey thence to Ala-
ra, 129

Aleium Plain, 180, 215
Alexandria Troas, 273
Alibey Kiui, village, 95
Allah-Shehr, 25
A 1 tun T.'ish, village, 139. Route
thence to Kutaya, 1 40
Aludda, 25 note, J 67
Amanus, Mount, remarks on the
passes of, 209, 2 1 0
Amorium, ancient history and
site of, 86-88
Amyzon, ruins of, 237, 238

Anaxia, 197

Anazarba, 218

Anchiale, 179. Historical no-
tice of, 214

Ancyra, 90 note. Various itine-
raries to and from that place,
72, 73. Probable site, 168,
169

Andabilis, site of, ascertained,
74

Andriace, or Andrdki, the port
of Myra, 183

Anemurium, or Anamur, 178,
199,200

Antiocheia of Pisidia, remarks
on the Roman road to, from
Apanieia, 163, 164

Antiocheia in (5licia, site of,
218. In Caria, 249

Antiphellus, notice of the ruins
of, 127, 185

Antonine Itinerary, illustrations
of, 25 note, 72, 73, 74. Most
to be depended on, 75. Cor-
rected, 82

Apameia Cibotus, summary of
ancient evidences for deter-
mining the site of, 156-162.
Its probable site, 26. Re-
marks on the Roman road
from Apameia to Antiocheia
of Pisidia, 163, 164 — to l^n-
nada, 1 64, 1 65 ; and to Do-
rylaeum, 165, 166

Aperltt, 188

Aphrodisias, or the city of Ve-
2 A

354

mis, 204. Its probable site,
250

ApoUonia,mobable site of, 1 63,
164 ip

Arabissar, tbe probable site of
Alabanda, 233, 234
Archalla, site of, 65
Archelaium or Arcelaio, 25
Archelais, site of, 75. Itinera-
ries to and from thence, 73
Argffius, Mount, 45
Argennum, Cape, 263
Arkhut-khan, 42
Arsinoe, 1 78. Its probable site,
201, 202

Arycanda, site of, 187
Arycandus river, 1 87
Ascnnia,Lake, the modern Bur-
dur, 145, 146

Ascanius, Lake, scenery of, de-
scribed, 7, 8

Asia Minor, physico-geographi-
cal structure of the central
part of, 52, 91, 92. Il-
lustrations of its ancient po-
litical and progressive geo-
graphy, 51, 53-90 On the
ancient places on the south-
ern coast of Asia Minor, 170-
218. Comparative geogra-
phy of the western and north-
ern parts of Asia Minor, 219-
3J2

Attaleia, city, notice of, 175.
Remarks on its geographical
situation, as stated by Strabo,
192, 193
Augae, 197

Axylus, region of, 65 ; described,

66

Azanitis, district, 168

Baiae, or Bayds, site of, 208
Bargvlia, site of, 229
Beitm, the ancient Beudos Ve-
tus, 56

Beri&m-Kalesi, ancient^kCH^at,
128 i

Bidjikli, 133, 134 ;

Bithynia, notice of the principal
places in, 307
Bithynium, site of, 309
Branchidae, curious inscription
in boustrophedon at, 239,
240 notes. Proportions of
the temple of Apollo Didy-
meus at, 348

Bulwuddn, village, notice of,
37. Journey thence to Ak-
shehr, ibid. 38-40. Stands on
the site of the ancient IloAu-
foroy, 53

Burdur, town and salt lake of,
137, 138. Road thence to
Ketsiburlu described, 138.— -
The lake of Burdur the Asca-
nia of ancient geographers,
145, 146

Butshuklu, town, notice of, 135

Cabalis, 147
Caballucome, 90
Cadi, probable site of, 169
Caesareia, site of, 271
("aicus river, course of, 269.
Notice of principal places in
the valley of the Caicus, 269-
272

("alycadnus river, 111. Valley
of the Calycadnus, 1 1 6
Cappadocia, one of the prefec-
tures of, why called Cilicia,
63, 64. Cappadocia Antio-
chiana, 65

Carallis or Caralleia, site of, 69
Caramanian mountaineers, con-
dition of, 1 13

Caria, notice of the principal
places in, 229-254
Carmylessus, 173, 182
Carura, city and hot baths of,
251 . '

355

Ciariwdl^ island/ now a pen*
insula, 227, 228
Castabala, 64

Castd Rosso, island, present
state of, 127. Inscription
found there, 184 note
Catacombs of Do^nlu describ-
ed, 22, 23, 34, 35. Remarks
on the sculpture thereon, 26-
28. And inscriptions, 29,
30. One of these catacombs
the tomb of Midas, 30-33
Catarrhactes, river, 139, 175,
191

Cavaliere, Cape, 205
Caystrus, notice of towns in the
valley of the, 256-258
Cebrenia, site of, 274
Cetenae, 156, 158
Celenderis, remains of, describ-
ed, 115, 116
Ceryneia, site of, 11a
Cestrus, river, 175, 194
Chalcetor, site of, 237
Charadrus, 177, 199
Chelidonise Islands, 174, 185
Christians of Asia Minor, con-
dition of, 7

Cibyra, site of, 148. Cibyrti mi-
nor, vestiges of, noticed, 1 96
Cibyratis, district of, 147
Cilicia and the Cilician 'raiirus,
63, 64. Description of by
Ammianus, 319. Towns in the
district of Cilicia Tracheia,
1 16, 1 17. Strabo’s descrip-
tion of Cilicia Tracheia (or
rugged) and Pedias (or plain )
176-1 80. Geographical Illus-
trations of it, 197-218
Cissides, promontory of, 182
Cisthene, island, 173, 184
Clanudda, 25 note
Claudiopolis, site of, 117» 319
Climax, Mount, passage of, by
Alexander, 174, 17.5, 190

Cnidus, ruins and inaeriptioaat,
226 note

Colossm, site of, 25^^ 255
Conni, or Conna, 25Mot€. Pro-
bable site of, 166
Coracesium, historical notice of,
177, 197, 198
Cormosa, 155

Corycus, coast of, 174, 189.
Promontory, 178. Now an
island, 212. Port, 262, 263
Corydalla, 184
Cotyaium, 24, 145, 167
Cragus, mount, 173, 182, 177.
199

Crambusa, island, 174,. 189
Cressa, harbour, 222, 223
Cretopolis, 149

Crusaders, march of, illustrated,
313-318
Cuballum, 89
Cyuim, 188

Cybebe, plan of the tern le of,
at Sardes, with observations,
342-346

Cyblstra, site of, ascertained,
63

Cydnus, river, course of, 211
Cydrani, probable site of, 25 1
Cyprus, island, passage to, 1 18.
Town and port of i'xcrina, ib.
Journey thence to Lcfkdsia,
119-121. To Larnaka, 121.
Return to T/erina, 1 22.
Cy>ssus, port, site of, 262,
263

Cyxicus, .site of, 260

Dacibyza, or aite of,

determined, 9

Dana, the same as tlie ancient
Tyana, 61. Ruins of this
place, 62

D’ Anville, mistake of, coiracted,
41, 35

Da.shash^hr, village of,^ 131
2 A 2 .

35G

Dil, ferry of, o. This place how
formed, 10

Dinglar, the probable site of the
ancient Celsenae, 156-158
Dioca sareia, probable site of, 1 1 7
Docimia, 25. Site and quarries
of, 54, 55

Dogan-hissar, district of, 43
Doganlu, valley, catacombs of,
22, 23, 34, 35. Remarks on
the sculpture thereof, 26-28.
And on the inscriptions there-
on, 29, 30, 31. Date of the
principal monument, 32
Dombai, valley and town of, 138.
The ancient Tabae. 153. Route
thence to Sandukli described,
139

Doric Dialect, prevalence of,
227, 228, notes
Dorilco, 25 7iote
Dorylaum, plain and river of,
18, 19,317- Site of this town
determined, 19. Remsirks on
the Roman road thither, from
Apameia Cibotus, 165, 166.
And from Doryla um to Phila-
delpheia, 167-169
Draco, river, course of, ascer-
tained, 9. Disasters of the
6rst cnisaders among its pas-
ses, 10

Kdrenus, site of, 272
Ela ussu, 1 78. Present state of
this place, 213

Emir-dagh, mountainous range
of, 66

Ephesus, temple of Diana at,
258. Account of its relative
proportions, 346, 347. Why
no remains of it are left, 259
note

Epiphaneia, city, site of, 217
Ergasteria, mines of, 271
Jlrkle, the ancient Archalla, 65

Ermendk, 117
Ermendk-su river. 111
Ersek, 1 0
Eski-hissar, 229
Eski-shehr, town of, 17. Stands
on the site of the ancient Do-
rylaeum, 18 Journey thence
to Seid-el-Ghazi, 20
Etenna, 149
Etennenses, 149
Eucarpia, 25, note. Its probable
.site, 166

Eumeneia, site of, 156. In-
scription found there, \^7note
Eumenia, or Eumenia Pella, 25
Euphorbium, 165
Euromus, site of, 237
Eurymedon, river, 194
Eusebeia ad Taurum, site of, 61

Ferry of the Dil, 5
Fortihcations, Turkish, notice
of, 41

Gagjc, port, site ot, 18.), 186
Germa, orYerma, 25
Germanicopoli.s, or Germano-
polLs, probable site of, 310,
311

Ghebse, or Givyza (town), no-
tice of, 4, 5. Description of
the road thence to Kizder-
went, 5-7. Stands. on the
site of the ancient Dacibyza, 9
Glaucus, river, T57
Gulnar, village, 113. Ancient
ruins there described, 113,
114

Hadrianopolis, 271. Its proba-
ble site, 309
Hama^tia, 177, 198
Hamaxitus, site of, 273
Harpasa, town, probable site of,
249

Harpasus, river, course of, 249

357

Hazret Meylana, aturkish saint,
tomb of, oO

Helenopolis, 10,314, 315
Heracleia. site of, 237. Rnins
of, 238, 239

Hcrmus, river, course of, 169,
266-268. Principal places in
the valley of Hermus, 264,
265

Flierapolis, ruins of, 252, 2.')3.
Plan of the theatre and pa-
lestra of, 311
Hierus, river, 80
Homer’s account of the Grecian
encampment against Troy
elucidated, 298-302. And of
the pursuit of Hector by
Achilles, 303-305
Hypapa, site of, 256

llgun, village, 42. Stands on
the site of the ancient Phi-
lomeliiim, 59. Its lake, the
Trogitis of Strabo, 69
llistra, 102

llienses, village of, 275
Ilium, new, site of, 275
Inekbaxar, the site of the ancient
Magnesia, 213-218
ln-6ghi, village, N2. Journey
thence to Shughut, 143
ln.scription, near Sekl-el-(ihazi,
20. On the sculjHured rock
of Doganlii, 30, 31. At La- .
dik, 4 1. At Karaimin, 100.
At Eumeneia, 157 fiofr. At
Gastel Rosso, 181 note. In
the ruins of Olym])us, 186
wo/c*. At Kudos, 221 iioiv. At
Cnidus, 226 riolt. Of StraU)-
niceia, 229,329-33 1 . At My-
la&a, 338. In boustrophedon
at Branchidic, 239, 240 notes.
At Olympia, 210 note, 241
note. At Magnesia, 245, 246,
notes. At Nysa, 339, 340

Ionia, notice of the principal
places on the coast of, 260-
264

Isaklu, district and village of,
described, 38-40
Isiuiida, 153
Isium, tower of, 187
Isnik, or Nicaa, present state
of, 11, Journey thence to
Lcfke, 12

Itineraries, ancient, illustrated,
25 note, 67, 69, 72-74, 76-
7S, 87, 15 4-170

Jerusalem Itinerary, illustra-
tions of, 72, 73, 74
Julhe, or Juliojxdi^, 25 note. Its
site ascertained, 59. Origin
of its name, 78, 79. Its .situ-
ation described, 79, 80. Its
commercial and politicid ad-
vuntages, 81. Its disUince
from Nioa, 72. Distance of
Ancyra from Juliopolis,

Kudun Kiui, or Kaniin-hana,
village, 43

Kakuva, i27
Karaburnu, cajx*, 196
Kuradagh, or llic Black Moun-
tain, 45, 9.'»

Karahissar, the site of the an-
cient (.'yblslra, 63
Karageli, the ancient Coralis,
or Caralis, 69

Kuraman, mountains of, 45.
Plain of, 97. The town of
Kuril man described, 98, 99
Karamania, description of, trans-
lated from Strabo, 173, 180.
Illustrations of it, 181 -2 1 8
Kassaba, village, described, 95,
96. Journey them e to Ka-
raniun, 96

Ka«rrg>.oVui;®v, island, notice ofj'
127

m

Kel^nderi, rains of, 115,
Ketsiburlu, 138. The* ancient
Afiolfonia probably situated
netTir this jjiace, 163, 164
Kl^v^d, notice of, 4, 5, 9
Kilisa Hisssir, or the Castle of
Kilisa, 61. Stands on the
site of the ancient Tyana,
i6i(L Ancient ruins of it, still
in existence, 62
Kirmir, river, the Hierus of
ancient geographers, 80
Ki6k-su, or Sky-blue river, 1 1 1
Kizderw^nt, or the pass of the
Girls, description of, 6, 7
Kh^radra, 123
Kodus, river, 1 69
Koehler (Gerieral), journey of,
from Adalia to Shugut, 127-
143. Geographical observa-
tions on the ancient places
ocdirring in his route, 144-
170

Konfa, town, modern state of,
46. Interview of tlie author
with the Pasha of, 47, 48. De-
scriptionof the place, 49, 50.
Journc'y thence to Tshumra,
93, 91-

Kosru Khan, 35. Journey
thence to Hulwudun, 36,37.
Kutaya,lhc ancient (’otyaeium,
mountain and town of, 145.
Journey thence to In-dghi, -
14!, 112.

Labranda, investigation of the
site of, 230-234
fiadik-el-Tchaus, 43. Huins and
antiquities there, 14. Coun-
try around it described, 43.
Stands on the site of Laodi-
ceia Combusta, 53
Laertes, fortress of, 177. Its
prob(ib!e site, 199
Lagina, 2,'l0

Lakes of thecentr^][)fu^-'0fAii4
Minor, 52. Of thd Forty
Martyrs; 59. Salt lake of
Tatta, 70. OfBurdur, 137,
138

Laodiceia ad Lycum, remarks on
the Homan road from, to
Perge, 154, 155
Laodiceia Combusta, or Laudi-
cia Catacecaumeno, 25 and
no/f'. Remains of, 44
Laranda, 98
Larnaka, notice of, 1 22
Latmic Gulf, 239
Latmus, ruins of, 238, 239
Lefke, town, described, 12, 13
Lefkosia, or Aeuxocrla, descrip-
tion of, 120, 121
Libyssa, site of, determined, 9
Limyra, site of, 1 86
Limyrus, river, 186, 187
Loryma, ruins of, 223
Lycaonia, limits of, 67. Cele-
brated for its downs, ibid. 68
Lyrbe, 149

Lysinoe, probable site of, 151,
152

Lystra, probable site of, 102

Maeander, river, 158
Magnesia, site, of, 243, 244.
Notice of its ruins, 245. Pro-
portions of the temple of Arte-
mis Leucophr\^ene at, 349,
350

Magydus, 194

Mallus, city, 180. Site of, 216
Malsum, village, notice of, 5.
Shands on the site of the an-
cient Libyssa, 9
Manlius, the consul, march of,
illustrated, 56-58, 89, 90
Marathi^sium, probable site of,
261

Marble, Phrygian, notice of,
36. And of thatof Synnada, 55

369

sea of, 2

^aiaj^as, river, sources of, 159,
161 and nofe, 1 62. Why called
Catarrbactes, 159. Another
Marsyas. The same as the Tshi-
na of modern times, 234-236
Megarsus, city, site of, 216
Megiste, island, 1 84
Melas, river, 176, 196, 206
Men avgat, town, notice of, 130,
131

Mendere, river, 139. A branch
of the M*<iander,l53, 154, 164
Midaium, 24, 25
Midas, tomb of, ascertained,
31-33

Milyas, 147
Mopsucrene, 74
Mopsuestia, ISO. Historical
notice of, 2 1 7

Mout, town and territory of,
described, 1 07* 1 09, 3 i 9. Ru-
ins in its vicinity, 106. Its
cemetery, 109. Journey thence
to Sheikh Amur, 110-112
Mylae, cape, 205
Mylasa, 230. Copy of an anci-
ent inscription there, 3^8
Myndus, site of, 22S
Myra, 173. Ruins of, 183.
Plan of its theatre, 321

Nagidus, historical notice and
probable site of, 200, 201
Nacoleia, site of, deterinined,
24, 26. Notice of this place,
24 note

Neapolis, probable site of, 261
Nephelis, promontory, 199,200
Nicjjea, ruin.s of. 10, 11. Di-
.stiincethcncc to Juliopolis, 72
Nysa, site of, 2 48. Copie.s of
ancient inscriptions found
there, .3* 9, 340

Obelisk of C. ('assius Philiscus.S
Obriinas, river, 153, 151, 164

Olbasa^site of, 117
Olbe, 320

Olbia, 175. Conjectures xMt its
site, 190, 191, 192
Olympia, copy of inscription
found at, 240, 241, notes
Olympus, site of, 189. Copy of
an inscription found there,
1 86 note *

Orcaoryci, 88, 89
Orchestra of the Greek theatre,
construction of, 322
Orcistus, notice of, 7 1
Orthograj)hy, Turkish, remarks
on, 3 note*. And on the
modern Greek orthography, 4
note

Osman, tomb of, 15

Palustra of Hierapolis, plan of,
341

Pamphylia, scenery of, descri-
bed, 131-133 '

Pandi khi, or IJayrl^iov, village,
3, 8

Panionium, probable site of,
260, 261

Paphlagonia, notice of the prin-
cijKil jdaiTs in, 308-312
Parniis'sus, distance from An-
cyra to, 72. And from Par-
nassus to Archelais, 73
Pjistures of tiie central part of
.Asia Minor, 53

Patara, historical noticx*of, 182,
183. Theatre of, 320. Plan
of it, 321

Pelasgi, the common source o.
the KtruKcans and GreeVs;,
29, ?tofe, 'fheir architectu-
ral skill, ibif/,

Peraea of the Rliodii, historical
notice of, 1 8 i - ‘Strabo*.s <le-
.veription of it, 221, 222. ll-
lu.strationh of it, 222-226
Pcrg.'imiim, ruins of, 266
Perge, illustration of the Homan

360

rbad to, from Laodiceia ad
■Lycum, 154, 155
PesainiiR, 25. Examination of
its site, 82-86

Peutinger Itinerary, or table,
illustrations of, 25 note, 69,
72, 73. Particularly of its
routes across Mount Taurus,
76-78, 87. From Laodiceia
ad Lycum to Perge, 154,
155. From ApameiatoAn-
tiocheia of Pisidia, 156-164.
From Apameia to Synnada,
164, 165. From Apameia
to Dorylaum, 165-166.
From Doryli um to Philadel-
phia, 167-170
Phan®, port, site of, 264
Phaselis, 175, 190
Philadelphia, 25. Its probable
site, 117

Philomeliuiii, siteof, ascertained,
58, 59

Philomelo, 25 note
Phrygia, notices of the ancient
history of, 32, 33. Magnifi-
cent remains of ancient Phry-
gian art, described, 29-32,
33, 34. 'l\)pography of Phry-
gia Epictetus, 168, 169
PityuBsa, island, 209
Poecile, rock, 178. Ancient
mins there, 209, 210
MoAi'forov, site of, 53
Pompeiopolis of Cilicia, histori-
cal notice of, 213, 214.
Pompeipolis of Paphlagonia,
its probable site, 3 1 0
Posideium, cape, 263
Potamia, siteof, 310
Prices of various commodities,
as 6xed by one of the Homan
Emperors, table of, with il-
- lustrative remarks, 332-338
Priene .proportions of the temple
of Bacchus at, 352
Prince’s Islands, description of, 2

Ptolemais, 176
Pydn®, 182

Pygela, probable site of, 261
Pyl® Ciliciie, 62
Py ramus, river, 179. Course
of, 215

Rhodian Colonies, notice of,
225. 226
Rhodiopoiis, 184
Rhoeteium, probable site of,
275

Rhoge, island, 184
Rhope, island, 184
Rodos, ancient inscription at,
224 note

Ruins of Niciea described, 10,
II. At Besh-Kardiish, 17.
At Ladik, (Laodiceia Com-
busta,) 44. At Kilisa Hissar,
(the ancient Tyana,) 62. In
the vicinity of Kassaba, 95.
Of ancient Derbe, 101. At
Mout, 106. Of Celenderis,
115, 116. At Kilkava, 127.
Of Antiphellus, UjUL Of Tel-
missus, !28. Of Assus,

At Adalia, 133. Betw^een
Bidjikli and Karabunar Kiui,
131. Of Patara. 182. Of
Myra and Andiiaee, 183. Of
Elieussa, 213. Of Pompei-
opolis, 213. Of Arnyzon,
237, 238. Of Latinus, or
Heracleia, 238. Of Pricnc
and Branchid®, 239, 240,
notes. Of Magnesia, 247.
Of Tralles, 246, 247. Of
Nysa, 248. Of Laodiceia,
251, 252. Of Hierapolis,
253. Of Sardes, 265, 3C
346. OfPergamum, 26 -

S;igala.ssiis, or Selge.ssu8, pro-
bable site of, 150
Sakarin, river, 1 2
Samiukli, 139

361

Samus, proportions of tlie tem^
pie of Juno at, S48
Sang-arius, river, celebrated for
its fish, 66 note *

Sardes, ruins of, 263. De-
scribed, 342-346
Saporda, 149

Sarpedonia, promontory of, 203,
204

Sarus, or Sihun, river, 215
Scamander,river,probable course
of, 290

Scainandria,probable site of,27S
Scopas, river, 80
Scutarium, site of, determined, 8
Seid-el-Ghazi, village, 21. Co-
py of an ancient inscription in
jts vicinity, 20. Description
of ancient catacombs near it,
22. 23

Sheikh Am dr, village, 1 13. Jour-
I ney thence to Gulnar, 113-
115

Shugut, town, described, 15,
// 16 Journey thence to Eski-
( Shehr, 1 7
Siberis river, 80
Side, 176. Its present state,
195

Siderus, cape and harbour of,
189

Sigeium, site of, 276
Simena, site of, 188
Sinda, 152
Sitshanli, 139
Soli, city, 179
Solyma, Mount, 171, 189
Stadiasmus, or Periplus of Asia
Minor, illustrations of, 181,
182, 185-188, 191-201,202-
218
)8, 131

. j*s description of Karama-
nia translated, 173-180. Ge-
ographical illustrations of it,
181-218 '

Stralonic^ia, site .of,,229;?fe>.
Different nam^ of,
note f. Ancient insprip^on
of, illustrated, 329-331
Sultdnhissar, the site of
cient Nysa, 248
Surigis, or Turkish postillions,
costume of, 38
Syedra, 177, 198
Synaus, probable site of, 169
Synnada, 25. Its site ascertain-
ed, 54-58. Remarks on the
Homan road to, from Antio-
cheia of Pisidia, 164, 165

Tab®, probable site of,. 153.
TaCTjvOK 153

Tatta, salt lake of, 70
Taurus, Mount, passage oyeri
into the valley of Calycadnus,
104-106-112

Tavium, )bable site of, 3) |
Tclmissiis, 1 28. Theatre of, 320
Temple of Cybebe, at Sardis, de-
scription and plan of, 3^2-
346. Account of the relative
proportions of the principal
temples of Asia Minor, 346-
3.50. Plans of various ancient
temples, 351

Teos, proportions of the temple
of Bacchus at, 350
Termessus, ruins of, 146. Pas-
ses of, 147

llieatres of Patarn' and Myra,
plans of, 321. Points of dif-
ference between them and the
theatres of European Gre^e,
320, .322. Plan and construc-
tion of a Roman theatre ac-
cording to Vitruvius, 323^
321*. Construction of the
orchestra of the Greek theatre
according to him, 324, 325.
Advantage of the Asiatic over
the Greek theatres, 326, 327.

36S

^cient th^res in exkf^ce^ in

Asia Minor, S28. Atid in Eu-
ropean Greece, S99. Plan of
the theatre of Hiers^lis, S41
Themisonium, 155
Toliatobogii, 89, 90
Tolistochora, orTolosocorio, sil
of, 90

Tomb of Midas, 31-^4.
Hazret Mevhina, a Turkish
saint, 50

TVacheiotis, or Cilicia Tracheia,
noUce of ancient towns in,
116,117

Tralles, site of, 243. Notice of
its ruins, 246, 247
Travelling, modern Turkish, de-
scribe, 3, 4, 104
Tljpolis^ ' notice of, 254
TtOas, region of, 273. Notice
' ofremarl^le plao 's in, 273-
s 306

Troy, examination of the sup-
posed site of, 279-305
Tshiiltigsbi, village, 136. Route
thence to Burdur described,
137

/brines;’ ebiihs^ and aour.
ces of, .234, 235

Tshumra, village, 94. Journey
thence to Kassabd, 94, 95

Tyre, probably the site of Cays-
trus, 257

Tzerina, town and port of, 1 1 8,
119

Vezir Khan, village, 13. Jour*
ney thence to Shugut, 14

Weather, state of, in Asia Mi-
nor, 6

Xenagoros, islanclH of, 1 84

Xenopl^on’s account of the re-
treat of the ten thousand
Greeks, remarks on the geo-
graphical difficulties and dis-
crepancies in, 60, 61

Xerigordus, castle of, 10, 314

Yerma, the site of the ancient
Germa, 70, 71

Yorgan-Ladlk, 43

Zephyrium, cape. 179, 214

FINIS.

Pirated by Ricbard Taylor,
ffiioe-Lane,